Takashi Ozaki (尾崎隆,Ozaki Takashi; September 9, 1952 – May 12, 2011) was a Japanesemountaineer. He is known for having made the first ascent ofMount Everest'snorth face and the first ascent of Myanmar'sHkakabo Razi.
Ozaki was born inKameyama in Japan'sMie Prefecture.
On May 10, 1980, Ozaki, with Tsuneo Shigehiro, made the first full ascent of the north face ofMount Everest.[1] Later, in 1983, he made a December ascent of Everest.[2]
In 1996, Ozaki made the first ascent of Myanmar's remoteHkakabo Razi with Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen.[3]
Ozaki died while descending Everest's south side at around 8,600 meters.[4] He had to abort his ascent when he developed medical problems, then died during his attempt to summit Mount Everest on May 12, 2011.[4]
Takashi Ozaki was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who also climbed mountains with him.[3] He had two children, daughter Sara and son Makato Ozaki.[3]
Summits:[4]