The city of Tabriz lies close to the borders of the Republic of Azerbaijan, 130 kilometers from the Azerbaijan-Iran border.[6]
Tabriz is in theQuru River valley in Iran's historicAzerbaijan region[7] between long ridges of volcanic cones in theSahand andEynali mountains. Tabriz's elevation ranges between 1,350 and 1,600 m (4,430 and 5,250 ft) above sea level. The valley opens up into a plain that gently slopes down to the eastern shores ofLake Urmia, 60 km (37 mi) to the west. The city was named World Carpet Weaving City by theWorld Crafts Council in October 2015[8] and ExemplaryTourist City of 2018 by theOrganisation of Islamic Cooperation.[9][10]
With a population of over 1.7 million (2016),[11] Tabriz is the largest economic hub and metropolitan area in northwest Iran. The population is bilingual with most people speakingAzerbaijani as their native language and Persian as their second language.[12] Tabriz is a major heavy industries hub for automobiles, machine tools, refineries, petrochemicals, textiles and cement production industries.[13] The city is famous for its handicrafts, including hand-woven rugs and jewelry. Local confectionery, chocolate, dried nuts and traditional Tabrizi food are recognized throughout Iran as some of the best. Some of the most esteemed cultural institutions in northwest Iran are located in Tabriz, which is also a center for intellectual activity.
Tabriz contains many historical monuments, representing Iran's architectural transition throughout its long history. Most of Tabriz's preserved historical sites belong toIlkhanid,Safavid andQajar.[14][15][16] Among these sites is the grandBazaar of Tabriz, which is designated aWorld Heritage Site.[17][18] From the early modern era, Tabriz was pivotal in the development of its three neighboring regions; namely theCaucasus,Eastern Anatolia and Central Iran.[19] As the country's closest hub to Europe, many aspects of early modernization in Iran began in Tabriz.[19] The Qajar dynasty was forced to cede the Caucasian territories toImperial Russia following the twoRusso-Persian Wars in the first half of the 19th century. Until 1925, the city was the traditional residence of the Qajar crown princes.
Other sources[22][23] claim that in AD 246, to avenge his brother's death, kingTiridates II of Armenia repelledArdashir I of theSassanid Empire and changed the name of the city from Shahistan to Tauris, deriving from inGrabarta-vrezh "this revenge". In AD 297, it became the capital ofTiridates III, king of Armenia.[24] However, this story is of popular origin and based on accounts ofVardan Areveltsi, a 13th-centuryArmenian historian; no ancient source records such an event.[25] The historical Armenian name for the city was Tavrezh (Armenian:Թաւրէժ,romanized: T'avrēž).[26]
The early history of Tabriz is not well documented. The earliest civilization signs in the city belongs to an Iron Age grave yard of 1st millennium B.C. which were unearthed in late 1990s in northern side ofBlue Mosque.[31] The city also inscribed as old as 714 B.C. on as Tarui or Tauris, on the Assyrian KingSargon II's epigraph in 714 B.C.[32]
EgyptologistDavid Rohl suggested that the legendaryGarden of Eden was near Tabriz. ArchaeologistEric H. Cline commented on Rohl's views, writing that "his suggestions have not caught on with the scholarly establishment. His argument is not helped by the fact that it depends upon speculations regarding the transmission of place-names for both the various rivers and nearby related areas from antiquity to the present. In the end, while Rohl's suggestion is not out of the question, it seems no more probable than any other hypothesis, and less likely than those suggested by Speiser, Zarins, and Sauer."[33]
Since the earliest documented history of Tabriz, it has been chosen as the capital for several rulers commencing fromAtropates era and his dynasty. It is likely the city has been destroyed multiple times either by natural disasters or by the invading armies. The earliest elements of the present Tabriz are claimed to be built either at the time of the earlySassanids in the 3rd or 4th century AD, or later in the 7th century.[34] The city used to be calledT'awrēš inMiddle Persian.
After theMuslim conquest of Iran, theArabianAzd tribe fromYemen resided in Tabriz. The development of post-Islamic Tabriz began as of this time. The Islamic geographerYaqut al-Hamawi says that Tabriz was a village before Rawwad from the tribe of Azd arrive at Tabriz.[25] In 791 AD,Zubaidah, the wife ofAbbasid caliphHarun al-Rashid, rebuilt Tabriz after a devastating earthquake and beautified the city so much as to obtain the credit for having been its founder.[15][24]
In the 10th century,Ardabil briefly held the status of Azarbayjan's capital, only to be swiftly supplanted by Tabriz, situated 130 miles to the west. Tabriz swiftly rose to prominence as a pivotal commercial hub, facilitating trade between the Far East, Central Asia, and vital routes. It served as a nexus linkingMesopotamia, theMediterranean,Anatolia,Constantinople, and extending northward through theCaucasus to theUkraine,Crimea, andEastern Europe.[35]
In theRamadan of 1208, Tabriz, as well as its adjacent cities and territories were conquered by theKingdom of Georgia underTamar the Great, as a response to the massacre of 12,000 Christians in the Georgian-controlled city ofAni onEaster day by Muslims. In nearbyArdebil, conquered by theGeorgians as well, as many as 12,000 Muslims were killed.[36] TheGeorgians then pushed further, takingKhoy andQazvin along the way.[37][38] Nevertheless, the city recovered soon and many western expediters who visited Tabriz in the 13th century on their way to the east were amazed by the richness of the city, its magnificent buildings and its institutions.[39]Marco Polo, who passed Tabriz around 1275 while travelling on the Silk Road, described it as: "a great city surrounded by beautiful and pleasant gardens. It is excellently situated so the goods brought to here coming from many regions. Latin merchants specially Genevis go there to buy the goods that come from foreign lands."[40]
Chosen as a capital byAbaqa Khan, fourth ruler of the Ilkhanate, for its favored location in the northwestern grasslands,[41] in 1295, his successorGhazan Khan made it the chief administrative centre of an empire stretching fromAnatolia to theOxus River and from theCaucasus to theIndian Ocean. Under his rule, new walls were built around the city, and numerous public buildings, educational facilities, and caravansarais were erected to serve traders travelling on the ancientSilk Road. TheByzantineGregory Chioniades is said to have served as the city'sOrthodox bishop during this time.[citation needed] At the same time, theDominican Order established aLatin mission in Tabriz, which would become its own diocese under thearchdiocese of Soltaniyeh for some decades in the 14th century.[42]
From 1375 to 1468, Tabriz was the capital ofQara Qoyunlu state in Azerbaijan,[43] until defeat of Qara Qoyunlu ruler,Jahan Shah byAg Qoyunlu warriors. Ag Qoyunlus selected Tabriz as their capital from 1469 to 1501. Some of the existing historical monuments including theBlue Mosque belong to the Qara Qoyunlu period. Tabriz was sacked byTimur in 1392, and he invested his son, Miranshah, as governor of the city.[44]
In summer of1721, a large earthquake shocked Tabriz, killing about eighty thousand of its residents. The devastation continued in 1724–1725, when the city wasinvaded by an Ottoman army. During this round of invasion, the Ottomans imprisoned many in Tabriz and killed about two hundred thousand residents.[49] The city was subsequently retaken by the Iranian army, after which a widespread famine, combined with the spread of fatal diseases, killed more of those who still remained. In addition, another earthquake is disputed to have occurred in1727 further adding to the region's instability at the time.[50] In1780, a major earthquake hit near Tabriz and killed as many as two hundred thousand people, leaving only about thirty thousand survivors.[51]
At the end of the 18th century, the city was divided into several districts, each ruled by a family, until 1799, when the Qajar PrinceAbbas Mirza was appointed as the governor of the city.[52] During theQajar Empire the city was the residence for the crown prince. The crown prince normally served as governor of Azerbaijan province as well. Some of the most important events in this periodwere the wars between Qajar Iran and neighbouringImperial Russia. Prior to the forced cession of Iran's Caucasian territories—comprising what is nowGeorgia, southernDagestan,Azerbaijan, andArmenia—to Imperial Russia following the twoRusso-Persian Wars of the first half of the 19th century, Tabriz, being strategically located, was instrumental to the implementation of Iranian rule in its Caucasian territories. During the last Russo-Persian War (1826–1828), the city was captured forRussia in 1828 by General Prince Eristov, who marched into the city with 3,000 soldiers.[53] After Abbas Mirza andIvan Paskevich signedthe peace treaty, which granted for the irrevocable cession of the last remainingCaucasian territories, the Russian army retreated from the city. Nevertheless, Russian political and military influence remained a major force in Tabriz and north-northwestern Iran even until the fall of the Russian empire in the early 20th century.[53] After the retreat of the Russian army,Abbas Mirza, the Qajar Crown Prince, launched a modernization scheme from Tabriz, during which he introduced Western-style institutions, imported industrial machinery, installed the first regular postal service, and undertook military reforms in the city. He also began a rebuilding campaign and established a modern taxation system.[54]
Thanks to the geographical closeness to the West and to communications with nearby countries' enlightenment movements, Tabriz became the centre of theIranian Constitutional Revolution movements between 1905 and 1911, which led to the establishment of a parliament in Iran and the formation of a constitution.Sattar Khan andBagher Khan, two Tabrizi reformists who led Tabriz people's solidarity against the absolute monarchy, had a great role in achievement to the goals of Iran's constitutional revolution. In 1909, Tabriz was occupied by the Russian forces.[55] Four months after the constitutional revolution's success, in December 1911, the Russiansreinvaded Tabriz. After crushing the local resistance by invading Russian troops, they started suppressing the constitutional revolutionaries and residents of the city. Following the invasion, Russian troops executed about 1,200 of Tabriz residents.[56] As a result of the campaign, Tabriz was occupied by the Russian forces between 1911 and 1917.[55]
Constitutional revolutionists defending Davachi bridge against monarchists, May 1, 1909.
Constitutionals in Tabriz, 1911.
Ark of Tabriz and US flag in the days after constitutional revolution, 1911.
From the very start ofWorld War I, Iran declared neutrality. When the war erupted on a full scale, Tabriz and much of northwestern-northern Iran had already beende facto occupied by Russia for several years. In later years of World War I, theOttoman troops intervened and took control of the city by defeating the Russian troops stationed there.[53] By this time, the Ottoman army led byEnver Pasha threatened the wholeRussian army in the Caucasus region.[53] Russian troops recaptured the city from the Ottomans at a later stage of the war. By escalation of therevolution in Russia, the Russian armies in Iranian Azerbaijan were evacuated, and the actual power passed into the hands of the local committee of the democrat party, with Ismail Nawbari at its head.[53] Following Russia's retreat, the Ottomans captured the city once again for a few months until the decisive end of the war, and retreated thereafter. After World War I, a new era in the county's history began.Reza Pahlavi, brigadier-general of thePersian Cossack Brigade, declared himself the king of the country following acoup d'état. He started with promises of modernization programs in Iran which was concentrated on the unification of the country, under the idea ofone country, one nation. This included centralization of the power and imposing restrictions on the local culture, heritage, and language in Iranian Azerbaijan, and the city of Tabriz.[57] The modernization and nationalization plan of Reza Shah continued until the surge of World War II.
At the final year of theWorld War II despite the declaration of the neutrality by the Iranian government, the country was occupied by the allied forces. The allied forces then urged Reza Pahlavi to abdicate and installed his sonMohammad Reza as the new king of the country. The postwar situation was further complicated bySoviet aid to set up a local government calledAzerbaijan People's Government in NorthwestIran, having Tabriz as its capital. The new Soviet-backed local government was run byJa'far Pishevari and held power for one year starting from 1946. Pishevari's government gave more freedom to speech and education in Azerbaijani language and promoted local cultural heritage and gained some popularity among the residents. However, after the withdrawal of Soviet forces, Pishevari's limited armed forces were crushed by the Imperial Iranian army and the Iranian government retook control of the city. One of the major establishments in the period of Pishevari's government was opening of theUniversity of Tabriz which played a major role in the later political movements and protests in the region.[58][59]
Soviet artillery units passing through Tabriz, World War II.
Soviet Tank and troops marching through Tabriz, World War II.
Soviet T-26 Tank passing through the main street of Tabriz, World War II.
For the next 30 years, after the collapse of Azerbaijan's autonomous government, Tabriz enjoyed a stable era until the revolution in 1979. During this period the city received significant investment in its industries and transformed into a heavy-industry hub in the northwestern Iran. The need for a strong workforce increased immigration from all around Azerbaijan toward Tabriz. During this era and because of the continuous policy of the government centralization in Tehran as well as changes in communication and transportation, the city lost its historical dominance, but turned into the gate for reform and modernization of the country.
Starting with 1978 and with the heat of theIranian Revolution, revolutionary movements of some of Tabriz residents played a major role in the revolution. After the revolution, the residents of the city were unsatisfied with the outcome, mainly because of the ignorance of the revolutionary government about the rights of the Azerbaijani minority.[citation needed] Another major source of dissatisfaction was the support of most of Iranian Azerbaijanis including Tabriz residents from a more liberal cleric, Grand AyatollahShariatmadari, who was against the content of the new constitution which was mixing religion and state together. The unrest in the city calmed down after brutal crush of the protesters in Tabriz and after house arrest of Shariatmadari.[60]
Aerial view of northeast Tabriz, May 2012
In the 1980s, due to theIran–Iraq War, like the rest of the country, most of the construction and development projects in the city were stopped in order to fund the war costs. In addition to the indirect effects of the war, city's industrial zone, especially the oil refinery was also a major target for airstrikes by Iraqi's air forces because of the closeness to the Iraqi borderlines, and their strategic roles in the country's economy. With the escalation of the war, the attacks turned toWar of the Cities and the air attacks later turned into the random strikes on the residential areas of the city in the later phase of the war.[61]
Roshdie
In recent years[when?], Tabriz is much more stable and the new developments in the city are rapidly changing the face of the city.
Capital of dynasties, empires, and kingdoms before modern day
Tabriz was chosen as the capital by several rulers commencing from the time ofAtropates. It was the capital of theIlkhanate (Mongol) dynasty since 1265. During theGhazan Khan era, who came into power in 1295, the city reached its highest splendour. The later realm stretched from theAmu Darya in the East to theEgypt borders in the West and from theCaucasus in the North to the Indian Ocean in the South.[62] It was again the capital of Iran during theQara Qoyunlu dynasty from 1375 to 1468 and then during theAg Qoyunlu within 1468–1500 and it was capital of Iran in theSafavid period from 1501until their defeat in 1555.[63]
During theQajar dynasty, Tabriz was used as residence centre of Iranian Crown Prince (1794–1925).
In 2002, during a construction project at the north side of theBlue Mosque (Part ofSilk Road Project), an ancient graveyard was revealed. This was kept secret until a construction worker alerted the authorities. Radiocarbon analysis by Allameh Tabatabai University has shown the background of the graves to be more than 3,800 years old. A museum of these excavations including theBlue Mosque was opened to the public in 2006.
The other excavation site is in Abbasi Street at the site ofRab'-e Rashidi, which was the location for an academic institution since approximately 700 years ago. It was established inIlkhanid period.
The predominant language spoken in Tabriz isAzerbaijani language (Azerbaijani people call itTurku (تۆرکۆ) orTurki (تۆرکی) language), which is aTurkic language mutually intelligible with modernTurkish dialects. The language has a strong Iraniansuperstratum since it has been in close contact with the Persian language for many centuries. Similar to the other parts of Iran, the official language isPersian and the most inhabitants have native or near-native knowledge ofPersian language, which is the major medium of education.[15] Nevertheless, theIranian constitution respects the right to speak and have limited educational facilities in other native languages, including Azerbaijani. For the first time, an academic program on Azerbaijani language opened at theUniversity of Tabriz in 1999.[64] Other than Azerbaijani, there is a notable minority ofArmenian speakers and a smaller minority ofAssyrian Neo-Aramaic speakers.
A page from the only manuscript ofSafina-yi Tabriz. It contains a Persian and a Pahlavi poem
It is believed that before the gradual increase and the dominance of Azerbaijani language in the area, otherIranian languages similar to Persian were spoken inAzerbaijan and Tabriz.[65][66][67] The 13th-century manuscriptSafina-yi Tabriz has poems in what its Tabriz-born author has called the Tabrizi language (Zabān-e-Tabrizi) which is similar toPersian.[68]
After being crowned at Tabriz in 1501,Shah Ismail I announced theTwelver branch ofShia Islam as the official religion of theSafavid Empire. As a result of this royal order, the mostlySunni population of Tabriz was force converted to Shiism.[69][70] Currently, the majority of people are followers of Shia Islam.
The Iranian national census was first completed in 1956 and published decennially until 2006, when, thereafter, the Statistical Center of Iran began to conduct them every five years.[76] The 1976 census notes a total population more than double of the decade before, a result of rural to urban migration during theWhite Revolution. At the time of the 2006 National Census, the city's population was 1,378,931 in 378,329 households.[77] The following census in 2011 counted 1,495,452 people in 455,494 households.[78] The 2016 census measured the population of the city as 1,558,693 people in 497,898 households.[4] The majority of the city's population areAzerbaijani people, followed byPersians,Kurds,Armenians,Assyrians, and otherPeople of Caucasus.[79]
Tabriz is located in northwest ofIran inEast Azerbaijan province betweenEynali andSahand mountains in a fertile area inshore ofAji River andQuri River.The local area is earthquake-prone and during its history, the city has been devastated and rebuilt several times.
Tabriz has acold semi-arid climate (Köppen:BSk,Trewartha:BS) bordering on ahumid continental climate with hot summers (Köppen:Dsa,Trewartha:Dc). The annual precipitation is around 260 mm (10 in), a good deal of which falls assnow during thewinter months andrain inspring andautumn. The city enjoys a mild and fine climate in spring and autumn, is hot and dry in summer, while snowy and cold in winter. The average annual temperature is 13.1 °C (55.6 °F). Cool winds blow from east to west, mostly in summer.[80]
Jean Chardin, a French traveler, visited Tabriz during the Safavid era, noting the climate in Tabriz in his travel logs: "Cold weather exists for most of the year. Since the city is northerly, snow exists on the peaks of its mountains for nine months out of the year. The wind blows during mornings and nights, while rain showers form in all seasons except summer. The weather is relatively cloudy the entire year."[81]
Highest recorded temperature: 42.0 °C (107.6 °F) on 26 July 1966 Lowest recorded temperature: −25.0 °C (−13.0 °F) on 20 January 1964[82]
Climate data for Tabriz (1991–2020 normals, extremes 1951–present)
Air pollution is one of the major environmental issues in Tabriz. Air pollution is due to an increase of the number of cars commuting in the city and polluting industries such as thermal power plants, petrochemical complexes and the oil refinery in the west of the city. Air pollution levels increased continuously in the second half of the 20th century. With a mandate of national environmental codes by heavy industries, industrial air pollution has reduced in recent years. However, the air quality in the city is far from world norms for clean air.
An immediate environmental threat is the shrinkage and drying out of theLake Urmia located in the outskirts of Western Tabriz. The lake has faced a grave crisis since the late 20th century. Water depth reduction, increasing water salinity to saturation level and the appearance of vast salt fields around the lake, are alarming indications of gradual total desiccation of a unique ecosystem. This occurred due to global warming and ever-increasing demands for inadequate freshwater sources in the basin. It is feared that in the near future low-lying clouds of airborne salt and minerals may hover over large areas around the lake, posing serious health hazards.[85]
Authority for the city lies with the Mayor, who is elected by a municipal board. The municipal board is periodically elected by the city's residents. The Municipal central office is located in theTabriz Municipality Palace.
Tabriz is divided into 10 municipal districts. Each municipal district retains a number of the older neighborhoods that are of cultural and historical interest.
Sahand, o mountain of pure snow, Descended from Heaven withZoroaster Fire in your heart, snow on your shoulders, with storm of centuries, And white hair of history on your chest ...
The city of Tabriz, historically located at the westernmost end of Iran's trade route and situated along theSilk Road, has long been a hub of commerce as well as culture and art. This strategic position facilitated both economic prosperity and the flourishing of cultural exchanges. In themodern era, the establishment of Memorial School in the late 19th century, followed by the founding of the University of Tabriz, along with the presence of intellectual movements, further boosted the city's cultural development.[87]
Tabriz is also the birthplace of one of Iran's most prominent schools of painting, known as the "Tabriz School." This artistic movement flourished during the periods of theIlkhanate,Jalayirids,Qara Qoyunlu,Aq Qoyunlu, andSafavid dynasties, leaving a lasting impact on Iranian art.[87]
The proximity toSahand, a mountain in the south of the city, has been a source of inspiration for contemporary revolutionaries and poets alike. The power of this inspiring source, however, goes to much earlier times. Tabriz was a house for numerous Iranian writers, poets, and illumination movements. In old times the city notables supported poets and writers by organizing periodical meetings. Within its long history, it was a residence for many well known Iranian writers and poets. The list can start from the old-timeRumi,Qatran,Khaqani to recent yearsSamad Behrangi,Gholam-Hossein Sa'edi,Parvin E'tesami. The prominentIranian Azerbaijani poetMohammad-Hossein Shahriar was born in Tabriz. The culture, social values, language and music is a mixture of what exists in the rest ofIran.
A century-long autocratic nation-building policy of central governments in Iran has succeeded in cultural assimilation in the favour of a government-sanctioned culture.[88] As a result, Tabriz, by the turn of the 20th century had nearly become devoid of its once characteristic cultural identity. Thanks to the more liberal policies of theKhatami era (1998–2006), a cultural renaissance took place and the local music was revitalized.
The traditional Azerbaijani music is divided into two distinct types, the music of "ashugh" and the "mugham". Mugham, despite its similarity to Persian classical music, was not common among Iranian Azerbaijanis. In recent years, however, mugham is gaining popularity among the educated middle-class young generation. For instance, Nasir Atapur, from Tabriz, was the laureate of Mugam contest 2007.
The ashugh music had survived in a mountainous region ofQaradağ and presently is identified as the characteristic form of music in all Azerbaijan. The ashugh music, throughout its long history, had been associated with nomadic life in mountainous regions and used to be dismissed as back-country folklore. The recent identity renaissance of Azerbaijani speaking people has elevated the status of Ashughs as the guardians of national culture. The newfound unprecedented popularity and frequent concerts and performances in urban settings have resulted in rapid innovative developments aiming to enhance the urban-appealing aspects of these ashugh performances. The main factor for these developments was the opening of academic style music classes in Tabriz by master Ashugs, such as Aşiq Imran Heydəri.
Ashugs (Aşiq in Azerbaijani language stemmed from the Arabic word for lover) were travelling bards who sang and played saz, an eight or ten string plucking instrument in the form of a long-necked lute. Their roots can be traced back to at least the 7th century according to the Turkic epic Dede Korkut.[89] Naturally, the music has evolved in the course of the grand migration and ensuing feuds with the original inhabitants the acquired lands. Still, the essence of the original epics, i.e. metamorphic description of life in pastoral terms with direct reference to the mountainous landscape, persists to the present time. The characteristic aspect of theAshugh music is its frequent allusions to a mountain with the intention of arousing an emotional state with a tone of mild melancholy in a listener. The first verses of a contemporaryAshug song, composed by Məhəmməd Araz, may well represent the essence ofAshugh music[90] may clarify the said statement.
Bəlkə bu yerlərə birdə gəlmədim (I may not come to these mountains again)duman səlamət qal dağ səlamət qal (Farewell to the Mist and to the mountain)arxamca su səpir göydə bulutlar (Clouds sprinkle drops of rain)leysan səlamət qal yağ səlamət qal (Farewell to summer days, farewell to the rain)
"Tabrizian style" painting was shaped in the era ofIlkhanids,Kara Koyunlu and theSafavids.[91] The paintings date back to the early 14th century and show significant influence from Chinese and Chinese-influenced pictures. Over the years Tabriz became the centre of the noteworthy school ofPersian miniature painting.[92] A fictional account of "Tabrizian style" painting in theSafavids era is narrated byOrhan Pamuk inMy Name Is Red.
Abgoosht orShorva (آبگوشت)[93] is a hearty soup made ofmutton and chickpeas. It has been cooked in Iran for many years and, until recently, was the main dish of most families in Tabriz.
Chelow kabab,kebab and roasted tomatoes (and roasted hot peppers occasionally) served on a plate of steamedrice[94], is the national dish of Iran. Tabriz is famous for the quality of itschelow kabab.
Dolma is a traditional food, prepared by filling an eggplant, capsicum, tomato or zucchini with a mixture of meat,split pea, onion and various spices.
Tabriz meatballs are large meatballs composed of ground meat, rice, and leeks, alongside various other ingredients. The wordkofta is derived fromPersiankūfta: in Persian,kuftan (کوفتن) means "to beat" or "to grind".[95]
A table of some of Tabriz traditional foods (köfte and syrup withsangak andBonab Kababi with rice)
There are also confections, biscuits and cookies which are Tabriz specialties, includingQurabiya,Tabrizi Lovuez, Riss,Nougat, Tasbihi, Latifeh, Ahari, Lovadieh, andLokum.
Tabriz was devastated by several earthquakes during its history (e.g., in 858, 1041, and 1721) and as a result, from numerous monuments only few of them or part of them have survived until now. Moreover, some of the historical monuments have been destroyed fully or partially within construction projects (the Arg of Tabriz is in danger of destruction now, because of the ongoing nearby construction project of Mosal'laye Emam). Nonetheless, there are still numerous monuments remaining until now, which include:[citation needed]
Tabriz has 132 parks, including 97 small parks, 31 regional and 4 city parks. According to 2005 statistics, the area of parks in Tabriz is 2,595 km2, and the area of green spaces of Tabriz is 8,548 km2, which is 5.6 sq.m per person. A study published in 2018 found that "Most of theurban green spaces are located on the urban fringes and in low-density higher income residential areas." It also found that "Greenspace per capita provision in Tabriz is much lower than the national and international standards (some districts offer only 0–1 sq.m. per capita green space)..."[96] Another study notes that the cohesion of Tabrizi green spaces is strongest in the Southern and Eastern parts of the city, and poorest in the center of the city, following the river Quri Chay.[97] The oldest park in Tabriz,Golestan Baği, was established at firstPahlavi's era in the city center. Tabriz also has 8 traveller-parks with the capacity of 10,000 travellers.[citation needed]
Tabriz is the largest economic center in Northwest Iran. The economy of Tabriz is based on commerce, services, health care and pharmaceutical, small and heavy industries, and handcrafts. Tabriz is the main site for five of Iran's Fortune 100 companies including:ITMCO, Palaz Moket, Kashi Tabriz,Shirin Asal, Aydin.[98]
Modern industries in Tabriz established since early 20 century by match manufacturing industries. Currently manufacturing industries in the city include manufacturing of machinery, vehicles, chemicals andpetrochemical materials,refinery,cement, electrical and electronic equipment, home appliances, textiles and leather, nutrition and dairy, woodcraft, and pharmaceuticals.[15]
There are hundreds of industrial complexes in Tabriz's industrial area. Among them is theIran Tractor Manufacturing Co (ITMCO) which is one of the biggest industrial complexes in the region. This complex alone has the highest foundry and forging capacity in the Middle East and it is the biggest tractor manufacturer in Iran with several production branches within Iran and other countries. Behind ITMCO there are several other industrial complexes includingMashin Sazi Tabriz Co, Iran Diesel Engine Manufacturing Co (IDEM), Pump Iran, Tabriz Petrochemical Complex, Tabriz Oil Refinery and a couple of industrial regions which include hundreds of small industries.
Tabriz is also a site for abundant food and some of the most famous chocolate factories in Iran which honoured the city as theChocolate City of Iran. This includes Dadash and Baradar Industrial Co. with the brand mark of Aidin, Soniz which is one of the biggest factories of its kind in the region.
A vast portion of the city's population is involved in small businesses like shoemaking ateliers, stone-cutting,furniture ateliers,confectionery, printing and dry nuts.
Due to its distinct handicrafts and carpets Tabriz is selected as the world city of crafts and carpet.[99] Tabriz is the main centre for the production of the famousIranian Rugs. The distinctive durability of Tabriz's carpets and its unique designs made it a famous brand in the world's carpet markets. Tabrizirugs andcarpets usually have ivory backgrounds with blue, rose, and indigo motifs. They often feature symmetrical and balanced designs. They usually have a single medallion that is surrounded by vines and palmettos. One of the main quality characteristics of Tabrizrugs is the weaving style, using specialities that guarantee the durability of the rug in comparison for example withKashanrugs. Therefore, most discussion surrounding Tabrizi rugs is on their high quality and durability instead of their traditional designs. However, Tabrizi rug patterns are not as easily identifiable as other cities' rug patterns as they are less distinctive, unlike Isfahan and Shiraz rugs, and most, if not clearly labeled Tabrizi, are assumed Tabrizi and met with labels like "probably Tabrizi."
Other than carpets, the city is famous for several other handicrafts includingsilverwares,wood engraving,pottery andceramics, Ghalamzani (Irania style oftoreutics), Moarraq (Iranian style ofMosaic), Monabbat,embroider.
Common Tabrizi rug, garden pattern, bright colors on cream background
Shopping centres are mostly located in the city centre, including GrandBazaar of Tabriz, pedestrian malls onTarbiyat street,Shahnaz street andFerdowsi street. Also, there are some malls and a lot of elegant & luxurious boutiques of jewellery, rugs, clothes, handicrafts, confectionery and nuts, home appliances and so on in the Abresan intersection,Roshdiyeh district andKouy Valiasr.[citation needed]
The special feature of Tabriz's malls is that most of them are designated to a particular order, such as home appliances, jewelry, shoes, clothes, wedding ceremonies, ladies/babies/men specialties, leather products, handicrafts, agricultural products, computers, electronic components, industrial equipment, piping equipment, chemical materials, agricultural machines, stationery, books, rugs, construction stuff and others.
Tabriz International Exhibition Center which is located in the eastern part of the city holds tens of exhibitions based on yearly schedule. The most famous fair is TEXPO[101] which is a general trade fair. Established in 1992, it usually holds exhibitions around August 4–9 every year.
Tabriz is the site for 14 of Iran's most prominent universities and higher education institutes. Established in 1947,University of Tabriz[102] is the most prestigious university in north-western Iran.University of Tabriz is also considered one of five mother universities in the country which works as the regional hub of science for the region. BesidesUniversity of Tabriz, there are several other public universities, operating in the city and its suburbs. Among them the famous ones are:
Tabriz University of Medical Sciences which branched off the University of Tabriz in 1982 has focus on various medical and paramedical fields. There are several other big universities within Tabriz and its surrounding counties, some of which are listed below:
the Payam-e Noor University of Tabriz, is part ofPayame Noor University network of the remote educational university.
There are several private universities and colleges which are also offering higher education. Daneshvaran Higher Education Institute,[104] Seraj Higher Education Institute,[105] University College of Nabi Akram,[106] Khajeh Rashid University.
There are few technical colleges, which serve the students as well: Elmi-Karbordi University of Tabriz,[107] Tabriz College of Technology,[108] Roshdiyeh Higher Education Institute of Tabriz,[109] Jahad Daneshgahi (ACECR) Higher Education Institute (East Azerbaijan Branch), Alzahra College of Technology, State Organization of Technical and Vocational Training.
There are a couple of research centers supported by Iranian government in the city including: East Azerbaijan Park of Science & Technology,[110] Islamic Azad University, Science and Research Branch, Tabriz.[111][112]
Furthermore, few other of Iranian universities have branches in Tabriz, including:Imam Hossein University, Shahid Beheshti Training Teacher Center of Tabriz.[113]
Hundreds of public and private schools serve students using the Iranian education system. Students attend primary school for five years, middle school for three years, and secondary school for a final three years. Those entering university must attend one year in college first. While the prominent language in Tabriz isAzerbaijani,Persian is used in school classrooms. Some of the high schools are famous because of their history or higher educational quality.
Here is a list of most famous high schools in the city:
Memorial school (American School of Tabriz) was opened in 1891 and is one of the most famous schools of American Missionary Schools in Iran. AfterWorld War II, the school's name was changed to Parvin High School, underIran education ministry's management. Currently, it is divided into three separate high schools, and the original building is under reconstruction.Howard Baskerville used to teach in Memorial school.
Roshdieh school is the first modernIranian school, which was established byHaji-Mirza Hassan Roshdieh. Currently, its building is used as the Tabriz branch of the NationalIranian Documents and Library Office.
Vahdat Technical College is another famous school in Tabriz. Its programs was developed by theGermans beforeWorld War II.
Ferdowsi high school is one of the largest and most prominent high schools in Tabriz. The original building was constructed byGerman engineers beforeWorld War II originally as a hospital with an aerial shape of H. Later on, it was used as Ferdowsi high school.
Mansur High School (established 1945) was one of the highest-ranking schools in Tabriz. Later on, the school divided intoMansur (Taleghani) High School and Motahhari high school. The reconstruction of the school in 2010 has caused tension between alumnus of the school and administrators of the education office of Tabriz.[114]
Shahid Madani and Farzanegan or so-called Tiz-houshan high schools (which are part ofSAMPAD/NODET) were established in 1989. The students are admitted to these schools through a competitive entrance exam. These schools are famous because of the higher rate of admission of their graduates through Iranian universities entrance exam.
Valiasr Religious School and Talebieh Islamic Science School are two major religious schools in the city which are used for teaching Islamic literature.
Tabriz National Library, also known as Central Library of Tabriz, is the largest and the most famous library in the city. The Tabriz National Library has the biggest collection of classic handwrittenPersian literature in the northwest region of Iran. There are many other public libraries all around the city such asTarbiat library, Helal Ahmar, Shahid Motahhari, Shahriyar, Jafarieh, and Farhangsara.
A sunset view of the Vali-e-Asr district in Tabriz.
TheMinistry of Health operates most of the public hospitals and health centers in the Tabriz metropolitan region, some of which are aligned with the Tabriz Medical School.
Public buses, shuttle taxis, metro, bikes, and personal cars are the main modes of transportation for Tabriz residents. The city has a network of public bus lines that link its districts and some suburbs to the city center. There is also a Bus Rapid Transit (BRT) line that runs for 18 km (11 mi) from theWest Train Station to the Baseej Square in the far east of the city.
Part ofTabriz subway line 1 is operational since 2015 which goes from Shahgoli to Shahriyar. Several lines are planned to connect districts of Tabriz to its city center however the construction is six years behind the schedule.[115] The government ofIran had planned to finish 6 km (4 mi) of line No.1 of the network in 2006, but this was not achieved due to financial problems and currently only half of the track for the metro line has been laid.[115]
The city is linked toIran National Railways (IRIR,Persian: رجا ) also to Europe by Turkey's railways viaGhotour (Azerbaijani, Persian قطور) bridge inWest Azerbaijan province of Iran. Tabriz was the first city inIran to be served by railways with the construction of the Tabriz-Jolfa line in 1912–1914 (later converted to broad-gauge in 1916).Tabriz Railway Station is located in the western part of the city, at the end ofKhomeyni Street.
Tabriz is a hub for the major sports events in the region. The city has a couple of sports complexes. The major sports complex inside the city isBagh Shomal complex which includes a soccer stadium, swimming pool, an arena for basketball and volleyball. There is also a bigger sports complex which is named the Olympic village which has asoccer stadium and acycling track. They are several other smaller complexes for martial arts, swimming pools, and gymnasiums. Among many different sports activitiessoccer andcycling got more attention because of the cities teams and international events which are held in the city.[citation needed]
Football is a major part of the city's culture.Tractor SC is one of the most popular football clubs in Iran and Asia. Tractor play in theIran Pro League. The home stadium for Tractor is the city's major stadium,Sahand Stadium which has the capacity of 80,000 people.
Tabriz is also home forAzerbaijan Cycling Tour which is held on a yearly based calendar since 1986. This cycling tour is the most prestigious cycling tour in Iran. Tabriz is also home forTabriz Petrochemical Cycling Team, a cycling team which is competing inUCI-sanctioned competitions through Asian continents.
Sahand andYam ski resorts are located in an hour drive from Tabriz. Depending on the perception, both resorts start operation from late December till early March.
Tabriz has one state television channel called Sahand TV that broadcasts in bothPersian andAzerbaijani languages. It broadcasts internationally through the Arabsat and Intelsat satellites.[118]
The city has one government-controlled radio channel broadcasting in bothPersian andAzerbaijani languages.[118]
The 14 weekly magazines and 8 main newspapers published in the city include: Amin, Mahd Azadi, Asr Azadi,[119] Fajr Azarbaijan, Saeb Tabriz, Payam Noor, Navaye Misho and Saheb.[120]
Within its long history, Tabriz was always the origin for many Iranian illumination and modernization movements. This is why the city was the hometown of numerous Iranian dominant figures including many Iranian politicians, revolutionaries, artists, and military leaders. Here a partial list of some of the most notable people who were born or lived in Tabriz.
Azerbaijan and Turkey have consulate offices in Tabriz. Formerly theSoviet Union and the United States had consulate offices in Tabriz. The US consulate office closed after the 1979Islamic revolution and the USSR's office closed after thecollapse of the USSR in 1991.[citation needed]
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^Thureau-Dangin, François (1912).Une relation de la huitième campagne de Sargon (714 av. J.-C.) texte Assyrien inédit, publié et traduit. Paris Librairie Paul Geuthner.
^"Iran under the Safavids".www.archive.com. Retrieved5 February 2025. Iran under the Safavids, byRoger Savory /Page 1/ (New York, 1980), in 286 bookmarked and searchable pdf pages, with map and illustrations. Scanned by Robert Bedrosian.
^Salia, Kalistrat (1983).History of the Georgian nation. Madison, WI: University of Wisconsin. p. 181.Archived from the original on 3 September 2020. Retrieved15 September 2017.
^abWaterfield, Robin E. (2011).Christians in Persia: Assyrians, Armenians, Roman Catholics and Protestants. London: Routledge. pp. 52–53, 72.ISBN0042750016.
^V. Minorsky. "Jihān-Shāh Qara-Qoyunlu and His Poetry (Turkmenica, 9)", Bulletin of the School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London, Vol. 16, No. 2 (1954), p. 277
^T. Atabaki, Azerbaijan: Ethnicity and the Struggle for Power in Iran, I.B Tauris, 2000, p. 53.
^Maziar Behrooz, Rebels with a cause: failure of left in Iran, I.B. Tauris, 2000.
^Shaffer, Brenda (2000). "Formation of an Azerbaijani collective identity in Iran, Nationalities Papers, vol. 28 (3), 2000".Nationalities Papers.28 (3):449–477.doi:10.1080/713687484.S2CID64801609.
^R. Bergquist, The role of airpower in the Iran-Iraq War, Air University Press, Washington DC, 1988. p. 46. & 57.
^Wood, John E. and Tucker, Ernest (2006) History and Historiography of Post-Mongol Central Asia and the Middle East, Otto Harrassowitz Gmbh & Co and KG Wiesbaden, p. 530.
^Richard Tapper. "Shahsevan in Safavid Persia",Bulletin of the School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London, Vol. 37, No. 3, 1974, p. 324. See also, Lawrence Davidson, Arthur Goldschmid, "A Concise History of the Middle East", Westview Press, 2006, p. 153; andBritannica Concise. "Safavid Dynasty", Online Edition 2007Archived 2008-01-20 at theWayback Machine
^Rasmus Christian Elling, Minorities in Iran: Nationalism and Ethnicity after Khomeini, Palgrave 2013
^Jean During, "The Spirit of Sounds: The Unique Art of Ostad Elahi", Cornwall Books, 2003, p172:"Maraghi (15th century) mentions the Turkish and the Shirvani tambour, which had two strings tuned in second (which the Kurds and Lors call Farangi) and was quite popular among the inhabitants of Tabriz (a region which was not yet Turkish speaking at the time) "
^R. N. Frye, "Peoples of Iran" in Encyclopædia Iranica. Excerpt: "The long and complex history of Azari (q.v.), a major Iranian language and the original language of the region, and its partial replacement with Azerbaijani Turkic language, the present-day language of Azerbaijan, is surveyed in detail and with a wealth of citations from historical sources elsewhere in the Encyclopaedia (see Azerbaijan vii). Although the original Azari gradually lost its stature as the prevalent language by the end of the 14th century
^Azari, the Old Iranian Language of Azerbaijan", Encyclopædia Iranica, op. cit., Vol. III/2, 1987 by E. Yarshater.
^صادقی, علی اشرف 1379: چند شعر به زبان کرجی, تبریزی و غیره ... در مجله ی زبان شناسی, سال پانزدهم, شماره ی دوم, پاییز و زمستان Ali Asghar Sadeqi, "Some poems in the Karaji, Tabrizi and others" in Zabān-Shenasi(Persian), Year 15, No.2 (Fall and Winter), 1379 (2001).
^John A A Boyle (Editor), Persia: History and Heritage, Routledge, 2011, p:38
^Melissa L. Rossi (2008),What Every American Should Know about the Middle East, Penguin,ISBN978-0-452-28959-8,Forced conversion in the Safavid Empire made Persia for the first time dominantly Shia and left a lasting mark: Persia, now Iran, has been dominantly Shia ever since, and for centuries the only country to have a ruling Shia majority.
^Phyllis G. Jestice (Edit.), Holy People of the World: A Cross-cultural Encyclopedia, 2004, p. 92.
^"Iran Data Portal".Iran Data Portal. Syracuse University. Retrieved26 March 2024.
^سرشماري عمومي نفوس و مسكن 1385 : استان آذربایجان شرقی [General Population and Housing Census 2006: East Azerbaijan Province].مرکز آمار ایران [Statistical Centre of Iran] (in Persian). Archived fromthe original(Excel) on 20 September 2011. Retrieved25 September 2022.
^سرشماري عمومي نفوس و مسكن 1390 : استان آذربایجان شرقی [General Population and Housing Census 2011: East Azerbaijan Province].Iran Data Portal—Syracuse University (in Persian).مرکز آمار ایران [Statistical Centre of Iran]. Archived fromthe original(Excel) on 16 January 2023. Retrieved19 December 2022.
^Metz, Helen Chapin, ed. (1989).Iran, a Country Study. Federal Research Division. pp. 89–90.In addition, during the 1970s there was substantial migration of rural Kurds to such historic Kurdish cities as Bakhtaran (known as Kermanshah until 1979), Sanandaj, and Mahabad, as well as to larger towns such as Baneh, Bijar, Ilam, Islamabad (known as Shahabad until 1979), Saqqez, Sar-e Pol-e Zahab, and Sonqor. Educated Kurds also migrated to non-Kurdish cities such as Karaj, Tabriz, and Tehran.
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