Thespectator shoe, also known asco-respondent shoe, is a style of low-heeled,oxford,semi-brogue orfull brogue constructed from two contrasting colours, typically having the toe and heel cap and sometimes the lace panels in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe.[1][2][3] This style of shoe dates from the nineteenth century but reached the height of popularity during the 1920s and 1930s.[4]
Common colour combinations include a white shoe body with black, brown or tan toe and heel caps, but other colours can be used. The spectator is typically an all leather shoe, but can be constructed using a canvas, mesh or suede body. The spectator was originally constructed of willow calf leather and white buck or reverse calf suede. The white portion was sometimes made from a mesh material, for better ventilation in hot weather.[citation needed]
Thesaddle shoe, another style of two-tone oxford shoe, can be distinguished from the spectator shoe by noting the saddle shoe's plain toe and distinctive, saddle-shaped decorative panel placed mid foot.
The English shoemakerJohn Lobb claimed to have designed the first spectator shoe as acricket shoe in 1868.[citation needed]
In the 1920s and 1930s in England, this style was considered too flamboyant for a gentleman, and therefore was called a tasteless style. Because the style was popular amonglounge lizards andcads, who were sometimes associated withdivorce cases, a nickname for the style wasco-respondent shoe, a pun on the colour arrangement on the shoe, and because "co-respondent" is the legal description of a third party caughtin flagrante delicto with the guilty party in a case ofadultery.Wallis Simpson was famed for wearing this style, although it was said that she was an adulteress and that it wasEdward VIII who acted the part of co-respondent.[5]
InJ. G. Ballard's 1984novel andSteven Spielberg's 1987filmEmpire of the Sun, protagonist Jim Graham (Christian Bale) covets a fellow prisoner's spectatorgolf shoes. After the prisoner dies, he is given the shoes as a gift from Dr. Ransome (Nigel Havers).[citation needed]
In the 1992 filmHoffa,Jack Nicholson andDanny DeVito were supplied with spectators from Wisconsin shoemakerAllen Edmonds (specifically the Broadstreet model).[citation needed]
In the 1920s-set crime drama,Boardwalk Empire, the character Enoch "Nucky" Thompson, can be seen wearing tan-and-black spectators, especially in the opening credits sequence.[6]
InVikram Seth's novel and television adaptationA Suitable Boy, Haresh Khanna is a manager of a shoe factory who is disparaged for his 'co-respondent shoes'.[7]
InDoctor Who, theSeventh Doctor (Sylvester McCoy) wore a pair of spectator shoes.
In the 2020 filmTenet, Neil can be seen wearing spectator shoes.[citation needed]
InKate Atkinson's 2022 novelShrines of Gaity, set in 1926 London, the character Landor wears co-respondent shoes.
This kind of men's decorative shoe dates from the late nineteenth century but became popular in the 1920s and 1930s.
Brogue: A laced shoe with many sections, which are punched and serrated around the edges.
A two-toned oxford shoe with either semi- or full- brougueing.
The flashy, disreputable type, usually in brown and white
