Solo climbing (orsoloing) is a style ofclimbing in which the climber ascends aclimbing route alone and deliberately without the assistance of abelayer (or "second"), or being part of anyrope team. By its very nature, solo climbing presents a higher degree of risk to the climber as they are entirely relient on their own skills (e.g.climbing technique, navigation) and their own equipment to complete the climbing route – any serious problems may require aself-rescue.
The following types of solo climbing use some form of climbing protection, which typically involves around a mechanicalself-locking device (or progress capture/assisted braking device) that — when used properly with a rope and standard protection — reduces the risk of serious or fatal injury to the climber:[2]
Rope solo climbing is climbing alone but with a rope to help arrest a fall, or for a self-rescue if required.[2][3] Instead of having a belayer, the climber uses aself-locking device that will hold the rope in the case of a fall, and leads the route in atraditional climbing manner, placing climbing protection as they ascend. One end of the rope is anchored below the climber and the climber pays-out the rope through the self-locking device as they ascend. Once they reach the top, they need toabseil down and re-ascend the route with anascender, to remove the protection they placed earlier.[4]
In 1992, French climberCatherine Destivelle used a self-locking device to rope-solo the first part of thetraditional climbing routeEl Matador5.10d (6b+), on theDevils Tower inWyoming (she free soloed the second part), and was captured in the climbing film,Ballade à Devil's Tower.[5] In 1992, Destivelle used rope solo technique to createVoie Destivelle (VI 5.11b A5) on the west face of thePetit Dru, and was captured in the climbing film,11 Days on the Dru.[6] In 2016,Pete Whittaker rope-soloed the 915-metre (3,002 ft) 35-pitch routeFreerider inYosemite in a single day.[4]
Top rope solo climbing is a form oftop roping where a single static fixed rope,anchored to the top of the route, is laid along the length of the climb. The climber then clips-into the fixed rope using at least one progress capture device (PCD) such as a Petzl Micro Traxion or a Camp Lift, that will allow the rope to pay-through as the climber ascends but will grip the rope tightly in the event of a fall.[7][8]
Auto belayindoor climbing is usually a form of top roping (there are lead auto-belay devices) where the belayer is replaced by a mechanical device fixed the top (or bottom for lead auto-belay) of the route.[9]
There are a number of sub-classes of free soloing:
Deep-water soloing (DWS), is a subtype of free solo climbing performed on rock faces that overhang above water where in the case of a fall, the climber lands in the water.[2] Extreme deep-water solo routes have falls of over 20–40 metres (66–131 ft), and thus a risk of serious injury.[2] Noted DWS climbers includeChris Sharma who created the world'sfirst-ever9a+ (5.15a) DWS route,Es Pontàs, in 2007.[12]
FreeBASEing, is a subtype of free solo climbing performed on long multi-pitch big wall routes with aBASE jumping parachute as the sole means of protection, where a falling climber opens their parachute to arrest their fall.[2] FreeBASEing was pioneered byDean Potter who made a freeBASE ascent ofDeep Blue Sea (5.12+) on the north face of theEiger in 2008.[13][14]
Highball bouldering, is where the boulder exceeds 7–10 metres (23–33 ft) in height, and therefore any fall, even wherebouldering mats are used, presents a risk of serious injury.[2] Where highball bouldering ends and free soloing begins is a source of debate amongst climbers.[15] Notable highball boulders includeNalle Hukkataival'sLivin' LargeV16 (8C+) inRocklands, South Africa.[16]
Free solo ice climbing can also be done in a free-solo format (e.g. without any protection, such asice screws). Notable free solo ice climbers include CanadianMarc-Andre Leclerc,[17] and Swiss ice climber,Dani Arnold, who has free soloed routes of gradeWI7.[18] Related to this is the activity ofmixed climbing free soloing (e.g. using ice climbing equipment on routes that are a combination of ice and rock).
Buildering, is a subtype of free solo climbing where the climber ascends a public building (or mechanical structure withcrane climbing), and usually without any protection.[2] Notable building climbers includeAlain Robert (who also madeworld's first-ever free solo of an8b (5.13d) climbing route), who has free soloed major buildings including theEiffel Tower and theBurj Khalifa.[19]
^Long, John; Sponholz, Hai-Van K. (1999).The High Lonesome: Epic Solo Climbing Stories. Adventure Series: Falcon guide. Globe Pequot. p. 1.ISBN9781560448587.
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![Natalija Gros [sl] deep-water soloing in Croatia](/mt/?noimg=&dark=on&url=https%3a%2f%2fen.wikipedia.org%2fwiki%2fFile%3aNatalija_Gros_in_Kamenjak%2c_Croatia%2c_2009_photo_Jure_Breceljnik.jpg)
![Heinz Zak [de] free soloing Separate Reality, in Yosemite National Park, California](/mt/?noimg=&dark=on&url=https%3a%2f%2fen.wikipedia.org%2fwiki%2fFile%3aHeinz_Zak%2c_Separate_Reality_5%2c11d%2c_Free_Solo%2c_Yosemite-Nationalpark%2c_Kalifornien%2c_USA.jpg)
