Shweshwe (/ˈʃwɛʃwɛ/)[1] is aprinteddyedcottonfabric widely used for traditionalSouthern African clothing.[2][3] Originally dyedindigo, the fabric is manufactured in a variety of colours and printing designs characterised by intricate geometric patterns.[4][5][6] Due to its popularity, shweshwe has been described as thedenim,[6] ortartan, of South Africa.[7]
The local nameshweshwe is derived from the fabric's association withLesotho's KingMoshoeshoe I,[8][9] also spelled "Moshweshwe". Moshoeshoe I was gifted with the fabric by French missionaries in the 1840s and subsequently popularised it.[8][10][11]
It is also known assejeremane orseshoeshoe inSotho as well asterantala (derived from Afrikaanstarentaal),[10] andujamani inXhosa, after 19th century German and Swiss settlers who imported theblaudruck ("blue print") fabric for their clothing and helped entrench it in South African and Basotho culture.[6][8][11][12][13]
InBotswana, this traditional fabric is known as "leteisi," 'jeremani," or "German print."[14][15]
Shweshwe is traditionally used to make dresses, skirts, aprons and wraparound clothing. Shweshwe clothing is traditionally worn by newly marriedXhosa women, known asmakoti, and marriedSotho women.[9][10][16][17] Xhosa women have also incorporated the fabric into their traditionalochre-coloured blanket clothing.[7][18]
In Botswana, the fabric is also traditionally associated with brides and married women, but has recently moved into much wider popularity.[19][20]
Aside from traditional wear, shweshwe is used in contemporary South Africanfashion design for women and men from all ethnic groups,[5][9][12] as well as for making accessories and upholstery.[21] It is also used in theUnited States as aquilting fabric.[4][22]
Shweshwe is manufactured with an acid discharge androller printing technique on purecotton calico.[4][5][9][23] It is printed in widths of 90 cm, in all-over patterns and A-shaped skirt panels printed side by side. The fabric is manufactured in various colours including the original indigo, chocolate brown and red, in a large variety of designs including florals, stripes, and diamond, square and circular geometric patterns.[7][11] The intricate designs are made using picotage, apinning fabric printing technique rarely used by contemporary fabric manufacturers due to its complexity and expense, although the design effects have been replicated using modern fabric printing techniques.[4]
Previously imported to Southern Africa from Europe, thetrademarked fabric has been manufactured by Da Gama Textiles in theZwelitshatownship outsideKing William's Town in theEastern Cape since 1982.[8][9][10][11] In 1992, Da Gama Textiles bought the sole rights to Three Cats, the most popular brand of the fabric made by Spruce Manufacturing Co. Ltd inManchester, and the original engraved copper rollers were shipped to South Africa.[18][24] Da Gama Textiles has made shweshwe from cotton imported fromZimbabwe and grown locally in the Eastern Cape.[16][22]
The localtextile industry, including shweshwe production by Da Gama Textiles, has been threatened by competition from cheaper inferior qualityimitations made locally and imported fromChina andPakistan.[9][11][16][25] The genuine product can be recognised by feel, smell, taste, sound, a solid colour from dyeing and trademark logos on the reverse side of the fabric, a smaller than average 90 cm fabric width and stiffness of the new fabric from traditionalstarching which washes out.[4][5][6][12] As at November 2013, shweshwe production by Da Gama Textiles had reduced to five million metres per annum.[6]
But Ms. Katsaras always keeps the series's central character, the private investigator Precious Ramotswe (Jill Scott, above), the focus of attention with colorful dresses and head scarves made of shweshwe, the traditional South African fabric known for its pulsating motifs.
The designs are created using a discharge process, unlike modern printed fabrics where color is added to the surface. With Shweshwe, the cotton cloth is first entirely dyed, thoroughly penetrating the fiber. Then, the cloth is passed through copper design rollers, which emit a mild acid solution, removing color with pinpoint accuracy. One of the characteristics of Shweshwe is the intense use of picotage, tiny pin dots that create not only the designs, but also texture and depth. It is because of the difficulty and expense in creating these designs that they fell out of favor with American and European manufacturers, who chose instead to move to printing processes. Da Gama Textiles of South Africa is the only known manufacturer of fabrics still using the discharge process ... The reverse side of the fabric will be a solid color because it was dyed. Da Gama also prints its seal on the back to help you identify it.
Ask any Motswana what the traditional attire is, the answer will be none other than leteisi. Knowing very much that saying jeremani is the Setswana version for the German print fabric, they would prefer to run away from the obvious question: If it is the traditional attire why then is it called the German print?
Used for everyday wear, but also for weddings and other traditional ceremonies, shweshwe used to be manufactured only in chocolate brown, blue and red, but now new colours have been introduced.
In Botswana, the fabric was originally used during traditional functions commonly marriage rituals...Unlike in the past when it was used mainly by the Tswana ethnic groups (especially Bakgatla and Bakwena tribes), it is now worn by all Botswana ethnic groups.
Traditionally, the fabric is used for events like Kgotla meetings or weddings. But overtime it has become prominent in the fashion industry as more and more Batswana embrace our tradition.
Some of our recognised brands include ... The Original Shweshwe ethnic printed 3 CATS, 3 LEOPARDS, TOTO and FANCY PRINTS, which are acid discharge prints on cotton calico.
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