Satu Mare is situated inSatu Mare County, in northwest Romania, on the riverSomeș, 13 km (8.1 mi) from the border with Hungary and 27 km (17 mi) from the border with Ukraine. The city is located at an altitude of 126 m (413 ft) on theLower Someș alluvial plain, spreading out from theAdministrative Palace at 25 October Square. The boundaries of the municipality contain an area of 150.3 square kilometres (58.0 sq mi).
From a geomorphologic point of view, the city is located on theSomeș Meadow on both sides of the river, which narrows in the vicinity of the city and widensupstream anddownstream from it; flooded during heavy rainfall, the field has various geographical configurations at the edge of the city (sand banks, valleys, micro-depressions).[3]
The formation of the current terrain of the city, dating from the latePliocene in theTertiary period, is linked to the clogging of thePannonian Sea. Layers of soil were created from deposits ofsand,loess andgravel, and generally have a thickness of 16 m (52 ft)–18 m (59 ft). Over this base, decaying vegetation gave rise topodsolic soils, which led to favorable conditions for crops (cereals,vegetables,fruit trees).[3]
The water network around Satu Mare is composed of the Someș River,Pârâul Sar in the north and theHomorod River in the south. The formation and evolution of the city was closely related to the Someș River, which, in addition to allowing for the settlement of a human community around it, has offered, since the earlyMiddle Ages, the possibility of international trade with coastal regions, a practice that favoredmilling,fishing and other economic activities.[3]
Because the land slopes gently around the city, the Someș River has created numerous branches andmeanders (before 1777, in the perimeter of the city there were 25 meandersdownstream and 14upstream). After systematisation works in 1777, the number of meanders in the city dropped to 9downstream and 5upstream, the total length of the river now being at 36.5 km (22.7 mi) within the city. Systematisation performed up to the mid-19th century configured the existing Someș riverbed;embankments were built 17.3 km (10.7 mi) long on the right bank and 11 km (6.8 mi) on the left. In 1970, the embankments were raised by 2 m (6.6 ft)–3 m (9.8 ft), protecting 52,000 hectares within the city limits and restoring nearly 800 ha of agricultural land that had previously been flooded.[3]
The city's largest park, theGarden of Rome, features some rare trees that are uncommon to the area, including thepagoda tree, native to East Asia (especially China);Pterocarya, also native to Asia; andPaulownia tomentosa, native to central and western China.[3]
Satu Mare has acontinental climate, characterised by hot dry summers and cold winters. As the city is in the far north of the country, winter is much colder than the national average, with minimum temperatures reaching −17 °C (1 °F), lower than values recorded in other cities in western Romania likeOradea (−15 °C (5 °F)) orTimișoara (−17 °C (1 °F)). The average annual temperature is 9.6 °C (49 °F), or broken down by seasons:Spring 10.2 °C (50 °F),summer 19.6 °C (67 °F),autumn 10.8 °C (51 °F) andwinter 1.7 °C (35 °F).[3] Atmospheric humidity is quite high. Prevailing wind currents blow in from the northwest, bringing spring and summer rainfall. Climate in this area has mild differences between highs and lows, and there is adequate rainfall year-round. TheKöppen Climate Classification subtype for this climate is "Cfb" (Marine West Coast Climate/Oceanic climate).[4]
The Hungarian name of the townSzatmár is believed to come from the personal nameZotmar, as the 13th-centuryGesta Hungarorum gives the name of the 10th-century fortified settlement at the site of today's Satu Mare ascastrum Zotmar ("Zotmar's fort").[6] The nameSatu Mare, which means "great village" in Romanian, was used for the first time by the priest Moise Sora Novac in the 19th century.[7] An older Romanian name,Sătmar, was formally replaced by the current one in 1925.[8]
Archaeological evidence fromȚara Oașului,Ardud,Medieșu Aurit,Homoroade, etc. clearly shows settlements in the area dating to theStone Age and theBronze Age. There is also evidence that the localDacian population remained there after the Roman conquest in 101/106 AD. Later, these lands may have formed part ofMenumorut's holdings; one of the important defensive fortresses –castrum Zotmar, dating to the 10th century – was at Satu Mare, as mentioned in theGesta Hungarorum. AfterStephen I of Hungary created theKingdom of Hungary in the year 1000, German colonists were settled at the periphery of the city (Villa Zotmar), brought in by Stephen's wife, the Bavarian princessGisela of Hungary. Later, they were joined by more German colonists from beyond theSomeș River, in Mintiu.[9]
Aroyal free city since the 13th century, Satu Mare changed hands several times in the 15th century until theBáthory family took possession of the citadel in 1526,[10] proceeding to divert the Someș's waters in order to defend the southern part of the citadel; thus, the fortress remained on an island linked to the main roads by three bridges over the Someș. In 1562 the citadel was besieged byOttoman armies led byPargalı İbrahim Pasha ofBuda and Maleoci Pasha ofTimișoara. Then theHabsburgs besieged it, leading the fleeingTransylvanian armies to set it on fire. The Austrian general Lazar Schwendi ordered the citadel to be rebuilt after the plans of Italian architect Ottavio Baldigara; using an Italian system of fortifications, the new structure would be pentagonal with five towers.[9] After a period when it changed hands, the town came under Ottoman control in 1661. CalledSokmar by the new authorities, it was akaza center within theŞenköysanjak ofVarat Eyalet. This status held until 1691, when the army of theHabsburgs expelled the Ottomans during theGreat Turkish War.[11] In the Middle Ages, Satu Mare and Mintiu were two distinct entities.[9] The two settlements, then called "Szatmár" and "Németi", were united in 1715, and the resulting city was named "Szatmár-Németi".[12][13] On 2 January 1721, EmperorCharles VI recognised the union, at the same time granting Satu Mare the status ofroyal free city.[9] A decade earlier, theTreaty of Szatmár was signed in the city, endingRákóczi's War for Independence.[14]
The city's importance was linked to the transportation and commerce of salt from nearbyOcna Dejului (Hungarian:Désakna,German:Salzdorf), possibly already at a very early date.[6] Due to the economic and commercial benefits it began to receive in the 13th century, Satu Mare became an important centre for craft guilds. In the 18th century, intense urbanisation began; several buildings survive from that period, including the old city hall, the inn, a barracks, theGreek Catholic church and theReformed church. ARoman Catholic diocese was established there in 1804. In 1823, the city's systematization commission was established in order to direct its local government. In 1844, paving operations begun in 1805 were stepped up. The first industrial concerns also opened, including the steam mill, the brick factory, the Neuschloss Factory for wood products, the lumber factory, the Princz Factory and the Unio Factory. Due to its location at the intersection of commercial roads, Szatmárnémeti became an important rail hub. The line to Nagykároly (Carei) was built in 1871, followed in 1872 by a line to Máramarossziget (Sighetu Marmației) line, an 1894 link to Nagybánya (Baia Mare), 1900 to Erdőd (Ardud) and 1906 to Bikszád (Bixad).[9]
Since the second half of the 19th century, it underwent important economic and socio-cultural changes. The city's large companies (the Unio wagon factory, the Princz Factory, the Ardeleana textile enterprise, the Freund petroleum refinery, the brick factory and the furniture factory) prospered in this period, and the city invested heavily in communication lines, schools, hospitals, public works and public parks. The banking and commerce system also developed: in 1929 thechamber of commerce and industry, as well as the commodities stock market were established, with 25 commercial enterprises and 75 industrial and production firms as members. In 1930 there were 33 banks.[9]
The presence of Jews inTransylvania is first mentioned in the late 16th century. In the 17th century, princeGabriel Bethlen permittedSephardi Jews from Turkey to settle in the Transylvanian capital Gyulafehérvár (Alba Iulia), in 1623.[16] In the early 18th century, Jews were allowed to settle in Sathmar. Some of them became involved in large-scale agriculture, becoming landlords or lessees, or were active in trade and industry,[17] or distilled brandy and leased taverns on crown estates. In 1715, when Sathmar became a royal town, they were expelled, beginning to resettle in the 1820s.[18] In 1841, several Jews obtained the permission to settle permanently in Sathmar; the first Jewish community was formally established in 1849, and in 1857, asynagogue was built. After a great number of traditionalAshkenazic Jews had settled in the town, the Jewish community split in 1898, when a supporter of theHasidic movement was elected chief rabbi, into anOrthodox and a Status Quo community, led by aZionist rabbi, which erected a synagogue in 1904.[17]
In the 1920s, there were several Zionist organizations in Satu Mare, and the yeshiva, one of the largest in the region, was attended by 400 students.[18] In 1930, the city had five large synagogues and about 20shtiebels. In 1928, a conflict within the Orthodox community broke out over the election of a new chief rabbi, lasting six years and ending in 1934 with the appointment of the Hasidic rabbiJoel Teitelbaum, a traditionalist andanti-Zionist,[17] who later re-founded theSatmarHasidic dynasty inWilliamsburg,New York.[19][20] Another Hasidic rabbi,Aharon Roth, the founder of theShomrei Emunim andToldot Aharon communities inJerusalem, was also active in Satu Mare.[18]
After Satu Mare became part of Hungary again in 1940, the civil rights and economic activities of the Jews were restricted, and in summer 1941, "foreign" Jews were deported toKamenets-Podolski, where they were murdered by Hungarian and German troops.[17] In 1944, the Jewish population was forced into theSatu Mare ghetto; the majority of men were sent toforced labor battalions, and the others were deported to theextermination camps in Poland, where the majority of them were murdered by theNazis.[18] Six trains left Satu Mare forAuschwitz-Birkenau, starting on 19 May 1944, each carrying approximately 3300 persons. The trains passed through Kassa (Košice) on 19, 22, 26, 29, 30 May and 1 June.[21][22] In total, 18,863 Jews were deported from Satu Mare,Carei and the surrounding localities. Of these, 14,440 were killed.[23] Only a small number of the survivors returned to Satu Mare after the war, but a number of Jews belonging to linguistically and culturally different groups from all parts of Romania settled in the city. The majority of them lateremigrated to Israel. By 1970, the town's Jewish population numbered 500,[18] and in 2011, only 34 Jews remained.[24]
In 2004, a Holocaust memorial was dedicated in theDecebal Street Synagogue's courtyard. Aside from the synagogues, two Jewish cemeteries also remain.[25]
The city government is headed by amayor.Since 2016, the office is held by Gábor Kereskényi.[28] Decisions are approved and discussed by thelocal council made up of 23 elected councillors.[29] The city is divided into12 districts laid out radially.[30] One of these, Sătmărel (Szatmárzsadány), is a separate village administered by the city.[31]
Additionally, as Satu Mare is the capital ofSatu Mare County, the city hosts the palace of the prefecture, the headquarters of thecounty council and theprefect, who is appointed by Romania's central government. Like all other local councils in Romania, the Satu Mare local council, the county council and the city's mayor are elected every four years by the population.[32] The city is at the center of theSatu Mare metropolitan area,a metropolitan area established in 2013, with a population of 243,600, and which includes 26 cities, towns and communes.[33]
The Satu Mare City Council, elected at the2020 local elections, is composed of the following parties:[34]
Satu Mare has a complex judicial organisation, as a consequence of its status ofcounty capital. The Satu Mare Court of Justice is the local judicial institution and is under the purview of the Satu Mare County Tribunal, which also exerts its jurisdiction over the courts ofCarei,Ardud,Negrești-Oaș,Tășnad andLivada.[35] Appeals from these tribunals' verdicts, and more serious cases, are directed to the Oradea Court of Appeals.[36] Satu Mare also hosts the county's commercial and military tribunals.[35]
Satu Mare has its own municipal police force,Poliția Municipiului Satu Mare, which is responsible for policing of crime within the whole city, and operates a number of special divisions. The Satu Mare Police are headquartered on Mihai Viteazul Street in the city centre (with a number of precincts throughout the city) and is subordinated to the county'spolice inspectorate on Alexandru Iioan Cuza Street.[37] City Hall has its own community police force,Poliția Comunitară located on Universului Alley, dealing with local community issues. Satu Mare also houses the county'sgendarmerie inspectorate.
Satu Mare has a complex system of transportation, providing road, air and rail connections to major cities in Romania and Europe. The city is an important road and rail hub located near the borders with Hungary and Ukraine. The city is connected to other major Romanian cities by road (European route E81,European route E671 andEuropean route E58) and by rail (CFR Main Line 400). The total number of automobiles registered in Satu Mare was 82,000 in 2008.[38] The city has around 400 streets with a total length of 178 km (111 mi) and cover an area of 1.3 km2 (0.50 mi2).
The main public transportation system in Satu Mare consists of bus lines. There are twenty-three urban and suburban lines with a total length of 190.1 km (118.1 mi), the main operator beingTransurban S.A.[40] In addition, there are various taxi companies serving the city. It is worth mentioning that Satu Mare had a trolleybus system in the past, created on 15 November 1994 but has beenclosed in 2005.
Football (soccer) is the most popular recreational sport in Satu Mare. There are two major football clubs in Satu Mare:Olimpia andSomeșul Oar.[43] There are two football stadiums in Satu Mare:Stadionul Olimpia with 18,000 seats[44] and Someșul Stadium with 3,000 seats.
The local women's basketball teamCSM Satu Mare is one of the best in the Romanian league; it finished third in the 2008/2009 season playoffs.[45] The team plays its home matches in the largestindoor arena in the city, theLPS Arena, which has a capacity of 400 seats.[44]
TheCypriot professionaltennis playerMarcos Baghdatis was brought to Satu Mare in 1998 for a month and a half by his former coach Jean Dobrescu[46] to train and to participate in local tennis competitions alongside his fellowDavis Cup team member,Rareș Cuzdriorean,[47] who is also a Satu Mare native with Cypriot citizenship.[48]
Satu Mare has a tradition infencing dating to 1885, and is the city that has supplied the most world and Olympic champions in Europe. Names likeEcaterina Stahl, Marcela Moldovan,Suzana andȘtefan Ardeleanu,Petru Kuki, Rudolf Luczki, Samuilă Melczhner, Geza Tere and in particularAlexandru Csipler figure prominently in the annals of Romanian fencing. The last four also formed the core of the city's fencing school, winning major local and international tournaments. Top results for which there is evidence date to 1935, when the localfoil team, Olimpia Satu Mare, lost against CFR Timișoara by a score of 15–10 in the national final, while Rudolf Luczki won thesabre finals held inCluj-Napoca. In 1973, the first signaling device in Romania was used in Satu Mare; this has been characterised as "a veritable revolution" for Romanian fencing.[49]
Currently the largest private employer in Satu Mare is the German automotive companyDräxlmaier Group which owns since 1998 an electric engine components factory in the city and has around 3,600 employees. The factory supplies automotive wiring especially to the German car manufacturerDaimler AG but it also supplied wiring to another car manufacturerPorsche for itsPorsche Panamera model.[55] TheSwedish companyElectrolux owns akitchen stove factory in the city acquired in 1997, that has a surface area of 52,000 square metres (560,000 sq ft) and 1,800 employees. The facility has an annual production capacity of around 1.2 million units and the majority of theZanussi brand kitchen stoves in Europe are manufactured there.[56][57] The Austrian companyVoestalpine owns, since 2004, a steel tubes production facility with an annual capacity of 50 million units per year.[58] The German companyArcandor has its main Romanian office established in Satu Mare. The subsidiary, accounting for the region formed by Romania and Hungary, is the most important among the 16 subsidiaries in Europe in terms of the percentage of sales through online orders having in 2008 total orders of €19.3 million. The company also owns a 40,000 square metres (430,000 sq ft) logistic facility and a call center in the city.[59]
The city has 16gymnasiums,[67] with the most important being:
The Grigore Moisil Gymnasium (Școala Generală Grigore Moisil), founded in 1903 and named after the mathematicianGrigore Moisil.[67][68]
The Ion Creangă Gymnasium (Școala Generală Ion Creangă), founded in 1990 and named after the writerIon Creangă.[67][69]
The Lucian Blaga Gymnasium (Școala Generală Lucian Blaga), founded in 1996 by Ioan Viman and named after the philosopher and writerLucian Blaga.[67][70]
Satu Mare has a county museum, an art museum,[71] and a theatre, theNorth Theatre, built in 1889 which has both a Hungarian and a Romanian section.[72] Concerts are given by the “Dinu Lipatti Philharmonic”, formerly the state symphonic orchestra of Satu Mare, in a concert hall in a wing of the Dacia Hotel.[73] The county library had 320.000 books in 1997, including a special bibliophile collections of over 70.000 volumes.[74]
^Ernst Hauler,Istoria nemților din regiunea Sătmarului, p.10. Editura Lamura, Satu Mare, 1998,ISBN978-9739715-66-9
^Judit Pál, "Administraţia şi elita oraşului Satu Mare în prima jumătate al secolului al XVIII-lea", in Laurenţiu Rădvan (ed.),Oraşul din spaţiul românesc între Orient şi Occident. Tranziţia de la medievalitate la modernitate., p.120. Editura Universităţii "Alexandru Ioan Cuza" din Iaşi, Iaşi, 2007,ISBN978-973-703-268-3
^Wandycz, Piotr Stefan.The Price of Freedom: A History of East Central Europe from the Middle Ages to the Present, p.85. Routledge, 2001,ISBN0-415-25491-4
^abAndrei Aricescu; Ecaterina Albici; Doru Radosav; Ovidiu Șerbănescu; Constantin Pohrib (1984).Ghid de oraș. Satu Mare (in Romanian). Satu Mare: Editura Sport-Turism.
^"CSM Satu Mare" (in Romanian). www.numaibaschet.ro. 21 May 2009. Archived fromthe original on 17 June 2009. Retrieved21 May 2009.
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