San Carlos de Bariloche (from theMapuche nameVuriloche, meaning "people from the other side of the mountain"), commonly known simply asBariloche (Spanish pronunciation:[baɾiˈlotʃe]), is the largest city in theArgentine province ofRío Negro and the seat of thedepartment of the same name. It is located in the foothills of thePatagonianAndes on the southern shore ofNahuel Huapi Lake, near the border withChile.[3] With a population of 135,755 according to the 2022 census,[4] Bariloche is a mid-sized city by national standards but holds significant regional importance.[3] It is not only the most populous city in its province but also the largest in the Patagonian Andes,[1] and the third largest in the entire Argentine Patagonia, followingNeuquén andComodoro Rivadavia. Itsurban zone is characterized by its lowdensity and has an area of more than 220 square kilometres (85 sq mi), extending longitudinally from east to west for about 50 kilometres (31 mi).[3]
Bariloche's economy is strongly based on tourism; it is the country's third most visited destination afterBuenos Aires andMar del Plata.[3] It is the most popular city in all of Patagonia.[1] It attracts visitors year-round for its scenic natural setting includingNahuel Huapi National Park and other reserves, offering a range of activities such asskiing in winter andwater sports andhiking in summer, alongside diverse accommodations and dining options.[3][1] The nearbyCerro Catedral is the largest ski resort inSouth America.[5]
The city is a traditional hub for student tourism in Argentina, and is a destination for the customary high school graduation trips. In addition it attracts families from Argentina and neighboring countries celebrating their daughter'sQuinceañera (15th birthday).[3]
The nameBariloche comes from theMapudungun wordVuriloche meaning "people from behind the mountain" (vuri = behind,che = people). ThePoya people used the Vuriloche pass to cross the Andes, keeping it secret from the Spanish priests for a long time.[citation needed]
There is evidence of the long existence of indigenous settlements on the banks of Lake Nahuel Huapi, in the area now occupied by the city of Bariloche. This was thousands of years before the European expeditionaries and settlers beginning in the colonial era of the 16th century.
Human beings had arrived in this area during theNeolithic era, as evidenced by artifacts. The archaeological and historical record speaks of the presence of tehuelches and puelches in the area.
With the process ofaraucanization and mainly since the 17th century, the culture of these groups was strongly affected by Mapuches. They increased their occupation in the area, affected by the settlement of Spaniards in Chile, and their continued push to the east.[7]
By the 19th century's end, only a few scattered indigenous families remained near the lake. People of Inacayal had been stripped of their lands, and were relocated to Tecka (Chubut) when their cacique was taken prisoner.[citation needed] Curruhinca had made an act of submission to Argentine government with his own. Some Nguillatun was still being celebrated.[citation needed]
But the region was beginning a new stage in its history. Although incorporated into Argentine national sovereignty, the Nahuel Huapi area began to develop fundamentally linked to Chile. Before the 19th century's end, when the border was still in dispute, people from the south of the neighboring country were gradually arriving to settle in surroundings of the lake. Small farmers were most of them from the island of Chiloe, but German immigrants living in Chile also arrived.[8]
Bariloche, 1916The Civic Centreopened in 1940 and was declared a national monument in 1987TheNeo-Gothic Cathedral of San Carlos de Bariloche had its structure completed in 1947.
Nahuel Huapi lake was known to Spaniards since the times of theConquest of Chile. Following the trails of theMapuche people across the Andes, in the summer of 1552–1553, the Spanish Governor of the Captaincy of ChilePedro de Valdivia sentFrancisco de Villagra to explore the area east of the Andes at the latitudes of the city ofValdivia. Francisco de Villagra crossed the Andes throughMamuil Malal Pass and headed south until reachingLimay River in the vicinity of Nahuel Huapi Lake.[9]
In 1670, Jesuit priestNicolás Mascardi, based inChiloé Archipelago, entered the area through theReloncaví Estuary andTodos los Santos Lake to found a mission at the Nahuel Huapi Lake, which lasted until 1673.[9] A new mission at the shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake was established in 1703, backed financially fromPotosí, thanks to orders from theviceroy of Peru.[9] Historians disagree if the mission belonged to the jurisdiction ofValdivia orChiloé.[9] According to historic documents, thePoya of Nahuelhuapi requested the mission to be reestablished, apparently to forge an alliance with the Spaniards against thePuelche.[9] Following the1712 Huilliche rebellion inChiloé Archipelago some insurgents sought refuge with Father Manuel del Hoyo in the mission.[11]
The mission was destroyed in 1717 by Poyas following a disagreement with the missionaries; the superior of the mission had refused to give them a cow.[9] Soon thereafter authorities learned that four or five people travelling toConcepción had been killed by the Poya. The colonists assembled apunitive expedition inCalbuco and Chiloé.[9] Composed of both Spaniards andindios reyunos, the expedition did not find any Poya.[9]
In 1766 the head of the Mission ofRalún tried to reestablish the mission at Nahuel Huapi, but the following year, the Crownsuppressed the Society of Jesus, ordering them out of the colonies in the Americas.[9]
The area had stronger connections to Chile than to the distant city of Buenos Aires during most of the 19th century, but the explorations ofFrancisco Moreno and the Argentine campaigns of theConquest of the Desert established the legitimacy of the Argentine government. It thought the area was a natural expansion of theViedma colony and the Andes were the natural frontier to Chile. In the1881 border treaty between Chile and Argentina, the Nahuel Huapi area was recognized as part of Argentina.
German settlers begun to arrive in neighboringsouthern Chile from the 1840s. Some of these settlers and their descendants begun a lucrative leather industry obtaining leather from indigenous communities across the Andes.[12] In the 1880s, the Argentine Army displaced indigenous communities, disrupting this trade and forcing leather merchants in Chile to cross the Andes to obtain supplies. This way numerous entrepreneurs from Chile, many with a German background, established cattle and trade business in the area of Nahuel Huapi andLácar lakes.[12]
In the summer of 1894-1895Carlos Wiederhold, aGerman-Chilean fromOsorno, Chile,[12] crossed the poorly knownmountain passes of the Andes from Chile into Nahual Huapi Lake. He was aided by the guide Antonio Millaqueo and Daniel Márquez fromChiloé helped them in navigating the lake. Back in Chile Wiederhold bought provisions inPuerto Montt and brought them across the Andes to sell these in the Nahuel Huapi area.[13] Wiederhold established then a little shop calledLa Alemana (The German) in 1895, and it is from this shop the modern settlement of Bariloche developed from.[12] As Wiederhold was named consul of theGerman Empire in Chile he left Bariloche forPuerto Montt in the 1900s.[12] In Puerto Montt Wiederhold continued to run the business while in Bariloche Wiederhold's business partner Federico Hube, also a German-Chilean from Osorno, was left in charge of local affairs.[12] By 1900 Chilean merchants dominated trade in the area ofNahuel Huapi Lake by their control of nearby mountain passes.[12] Hube & Achelis controlledPaso Pérez Rosales and Camino y Lacoste did so inPaso Puyehue.[12] A war scare between Chile and Argentina in the 1900s meant some difficulties for these earlier entrepreneurs who later came to benefit from the1902 boundary arbitration between Chile and Argentina which increased trust along the international boundary.[12] The trade route established by Wiederhold connecting the Pacific port of Puerto Montt with Nahuel Huapi Lake in the inland was well into the 1910s among the most important ones in northernPatagonia.[13]
The Chilean entrepreneurs expanded beyond trade and established husbandry operations around Nahuel Huapi Lake. These enterprises exported meat toCentral Chile and imported labour from southern Chile, mainlyChiloé Archipelago, to run the business.[12] Argentine authorities encouraged at first the immigration of Chileans offering land properties if they renounced the Chilean citizenship becoming Argentines.[12] Chilean authorities responded by offering land to those that returned from Argentina.[12] As spontaneous migration from Chiloé Archipelago begun to replace those brought in by enterprises the Argentine authorities came to distrust these migrants. Many independent settlers from Chiloé Archipelago established themselves inValle Manso south of Bariloche.[12] In the words of historian Jorge Muñoz Sougarett, Argentine authorities viewed these Chileans settlers as "illiterate nomads, vicious and unruly".[12]
In the 1930s, the centre of the city was redesigned to have the appearance of a traditional European central alpine town (it was called "Little Switzerland.") Many buildings were made of wood and stone. In 1909 there were 1,250 inhabitants; a telegraph, post office, and a road connected the city withNeuquén. Commerce continued to depend on Chile until the arrival of therailroad in 1934, which connected the city with Argentine markets.
Between 1935 and 1940, the Argentine Directorate of National Parks carried out a number of urban public works, giving the city a distinctive architectural style. Among them, perhaps the best-known is the Civic Centre.
Bariloche grew from being a centre of cattle trade that relied on commerce with Chile, to becoming a tourism centre for the Argentine elite. It took on a cosmopolitan architectural and urban profile. Growth in the city's tourist trade began in the 1930s, when local hotel occupancy grew from 1550 tourists in 1934 to 4000 in 1940.[14]
In 1934 Ezequiel Bustillo, then director of the National Parks Direction, contracted his brotherAlejandro Bustillo to build several buildings inIguazú andNahuel Huapi National Park (Bariloche was the main settlement inside the park). In contrast to subtropicalIguazú National Park, planners and developers thought that Nahuel Huapi National Park, because of its temperate climate, could compete with the tourism of Europe. Together with Bariloche, it was established for priority projects by national tourism development planners.[14]
Alejandro Bustillo designed the Edificio Movilidad, Plaza Perito Moreno, theNeo-Gothic San Carlos de Bariloche Cathedral, and theLlao Llao Hotel. Architect Ernesto de Estrada designed the Civic Centre of Bariloche, which opened in 1940. The Civic Centre's tuff stone, slate andFitzroya structures include theDomingo Sarmiento Library, theFrancisco Moreno Museum of Patagonia, City Hall, the Post Office, the Police Station, and the Customs.
During the 1950s, on the small island of Huemul, not far into lake Nahuel Huapi, former presidentJuan Domingo Perón tried to have the world's first fusion reactor built secretly. The project cost the equivalent of about $300 million modern US dollars, and it was never finished, due to the lack of the highly advanced technology that was needed. Austrian scientistRonald Richter was in charge of the project. The facilities can still be visited, and are visible from certain locations on the coast.
In 1995, Bariloche made headlines in the international press when it became known as a place forNazi war criminals, such as the formerSSHauptsturmführerErich Priebke and SS officerReinhard Kopps, known in Argentina as Juan Maler. Priebke had been director of the German School of Bariloche for many years.
The narrative thatAdolf Hitler did not commit suicide, but instead escaped Berlin, was first presented to the general public by MarshalGeorgy Zhukov at a press conference on 9 June 1945 on orders from Soviet leaderJoseph Stalin.[15]: 22, 23 That month, 68% of Americans polled thought Hitler was still alive.[16] When asked at thePotsdam Conference in July 1945 how Hitler had died, Stalin said he was living either "in Spain or Argentina."[17]
In his 2004 bookBariloche nazi-guía turística, Argentine author Abel Basti claims that Adolf Hitler andEva Braun lived in the surroundings of Bariloche for many years after World War II.[18][19] Basti said that the Argentine Nazis chose the estate ofInalco as Hitler's refuge.[18]
Grey Wolf: The Escape of Adolf Hitler, a 2011 book by British authors Simon Dunstan and Gerrard Williams, proposed that Hitler and Eva Braun escaped from Berlin in 1945. The authors say the couple flew to Denmark, then to Spain and from there to the Canary Islands, where they boarded aU-Boat and crossed the Atlantic to Argentina, where thousands of Nazis were provided sanctuary by presidentJuan Perón. He and his wifeEva Perón had been receiving money from the Nazis for some time. TheFBI received claims saying that Hitler allegedly arrived in Argentina, first staying at Hacienda San Ramón, a rural property 10 kilometres (6 mi) east of Bariloche owned by Stephan von Schaumburg-Lippe, a relative ofPrince Bernhard.[20] Next he purportedly moved toa Bavarian-style mansion at Inalco, a remote and barely accessible spot at the northwest end of Nahuel Huapi Lake, close to theChilean border. Supposedly, Eva Braun left Hitler around 1954 and moved toNeuquén with their daughter Ursula ('Uschi'). Adolf Hitler died in February 1962 at age 73, and Eva Braun was alleged to be alive in the 2000s.[21]
These and similar accounts are disputed by most historians, who generally believe that Hitler and Braun committed suicide in theFührerbunker during the last days of World War II.
Tourism, both domestic and international, is the main economic activity of Bariloche throughout the year. The city is very popular with Brazilians, Europeans and Israelis. One of the most popular activities is skiing, and most tourists visit Bariloche in winter (June–September). Regular flights from Buenos Aires viaLAN airlines andAerolíneas Argentinas serve the city year round. The main ski slopes are the ones atCerro Catedral, the biggest ski resort in South America and in the southern hemisphere.
During the summer, beautiful beaches such as Playa Bonita and Villa Tacul welcome sun-bathers; brave lake swimmers venture into its cold waters (chilled by melting snow). Lake Nahuel Huapi averages 14 °C (57 °F) in the summertime.
Bariloche is the biggest city of a huge Lakes District, and it serves as a base for many excursions in the region. Activities such as fishing, whitewater rafting, and birdwatching are popular with tourists. Trekking along trails in the nearby mountain wilderness is supported by a few high-mountain huts operated by theClub Andino Bariloche. The city is noted for its chocolates and Swiss-style architecture. Many high school students in Argentina take a senior trip to Bariloche, and the town is well prepared to host these kinds of groups.[22] In November 2012, Bariloche was named "national capital of adventure tourism" under Law 26802 passed by the Argentine National Congress.[23]
Besides tourism and related services, Bariloche is home of advanced scientific and technological activities. TheCentro Atómico Bariloche is a research center of theNational Atomic Energy Commission, where basic and applied research in many areas of the physical sciences is carried out. The complex also housesInstituto Balseiro, a higher education institution of theUniversidad Nacional de Cuyo, with a small and carefully selected number of students. The institute confers degrees in Physics and Nuclear, Mechanical and Telecommunications Engineering, as well as Masters and Doctorate degrees in Physics and Engineering. The city also hostsINVAP, a high-technology company that designs and builds nuclear reactors, state-of-the-art radars and space satellites, among other projects.
The private, non-profit organization Bariloche Foundation continues the tradition of scientific research in the city. Started in 1963, it promotes postgraduate teaching and research. There are also several departments and laboratories at theNational University of Comahue.
View of theNahuel Huapi National Park landscape surrounding BarilocheView of the city from the lakeside in summerNahuel Huapi Lake captured from Cerro Otto's top in summerCerro Catedral ski resort in July
Bariloche lies in the transition between a coolMediterranean climate (KöppenCsb) and anOceanic climate (Köppen:Cfb), with marked alpine characteristics (low nighttime temperatures, wide temperature variations, high thermal amplitude). The combination of its altitude, latitude, and predominance of west-northwest winds cause the climate to be classified as a cool temperate climate with a dry season that presents a west–east precipitation gradient.[24] Mean annual precipitation ranges from 4,000 mm (157 in) in the Andean peaks and inPuerto Blest to only 600 mm (24 in) in theLimay River area.[24] In the urban areas, mean annual precipitation ranges from 800 to 1,000 mm (31 to 39 in).[24] Most of this is concentrated in autumn and winter, which are responsible for 70% of the annual precipitation.[24]
The mean annual temperature in Bariloche is 8.4 °C (47 °F) in the city centre (1901–1950).[24] At the airport in the eastern end, the mean annual temperature is 8.3 °C (47 °F) (for the period 1981–2010).[24][25] In January, daytime temperatures normally range from 20 to 28 °C (68 to 82 °F) and may occasionally go up to 30 °C (86 °F).[24] The average minimum in January is 8.2 °C (47 °F) at the city centre and 6.6 °C (44 °F) at the airport although during warm days, nighttime temperatures can reach to 15 °C (59 °F).[24][26][25] In winter, daytime temperatures range from 1 to 8 °C (34 to 46 °F) while nighttime temperatures approach freezing or less.[24] Temperatures vary by altitude; in general, the temperature decreases by 6 °C (11 °F) for every 1,000 metres (3,281 ft) increase in altitude.[24]
The weather is characterized by being windy throughout the year; 85% of the days are windy and calm days are rare.[24] Most of the wind predominantly comes from the west-northwest with easterly winds being rare.[24] Normally, the winds are strong, particularly in spring where gusts can exceed 100 km/h (62 mph).[24]
At the city centre, mean annual precipitation is 1,092 mm (43 in) in which there are 122 days with precipitation.[24] In the eastern end where the airport is located, precipitation is lower, averaging 791 mm (31 in).[24] In winter when temperatures are lower, snowfall can occur, which is favoured by the low evapotranspiration.[24] In spring, melt from snow and lower temperatures lead to moist conditions that facilitate the development of dense forest and agricultural activities.[24]
The water temperatures in the lakes are always low, ranging from 12 to 15 °C (54 to 59 °F).[24] This is due to the lakes being large, making it difficult for the sun to influence their temperature, owing to their large heat capacity.[24] Smaller lakes can freeze in the winter, particularly those located in the higher elevations.[24]
The central parts of Bariloche are built on a landscape ofmoraines and, next to the lake, ofalluvial and lacustrine plains andterraces.[34] Thesubsoil of the city consists partially of a succession oftills deposited during theLast Ice Age.[34]
Bariloche is in the transition area between thePatagonian steppe andValdivian forest, therefore it is rich in a variety of native species, of which the following is a list.[35]
The city is served bySan Carlos de Bariloche International Airport (IATA BRC/ICAO SAZS) equipped to receive any kind of aircraft. Several ofArgentina's most important airlines maintain regular flights to Bariloche, as well as some international lines from neighbouring countries, especially during the ski season. The city is linked by train with the city ofViedma through theTren Patagonico that crosses Argentina from theAndes to the Atlantic Ocean.
Bariloche can also be reached by buses and private cars. The main land routes from North areRN 40, coming fromVilla La Angostura,San Martín de los Andes andMendoza Province, and RN 237 that enters fromNeuquén and connects through Argentine's route system withBuenos Aires and Eastern/Central Argentina. Other options are, from the East, by RN 23 (partially paved), crossing the railway line toViedma (Línea Sur), or from the South by RN 40, coming from the town ofEl Bolsón (until 2003 this road was numbered RN 258).
San Carlos de Bariloche lies close to theChilean border and is connected to Chile by theCardenal Antonio Samoré Pass (125 km North-West from Bariloche, near Villa La Angostura) crossing theAndes Mountains.
A terminal railway station links Bariloche toViedma.
Within the city, Mibus is the single mass transit bus company that works, this bus line operates with the SUBE card. The Company Las Grutas that connects Bariloche with Dina Huapi also runs through part of the city, although this line operates with its own card.
Bariloche is home of the army's "12° Regimiento de Infantería de Montaña" (12th Mountain Infantry Regiment), where military personnel are instructed in mountainous conditions, including combat, survival, and skiing. It is usual for the Regiment to receive infantry personnel from other parts of the country and train them. Furthermore, theEscuela Militar de Montaña, the mountain warfare school of theArgentine Army is located in Bariloche.[36]
The main Neighbourhoods are Belgrano, Jardín Botánico, Melipal, Centro, Las Victorias, Las Marias, Dos Valles, Playa Bonita, Arelauquen, Los Coihues y Llao Llao.
The city of Bariloche has one of the fifty most dangerous landfills fornatural environment of the world. This was indicated by a report that was carried out by the environmental organizationInternational Solid Waste Association (ISWA), based inAustria.
The request for the transfer of the Bariloche dump, located onNational Route 40 (Argentina) south, was being surrounded by neighborhoods with a high population density, it is already historic. Added to the situation of environmental collapse is the desperate situation of a large number of people who go to the dump daily in search of food or shelter. In addition, the fires in various sectors of the landfill also became recurrent, affecting not only those who work in the dump but also the closest neighborhoods, without forgetting to mention the forests that surround it, the fauna that inhabits them, and the water, that is deposited in layers that end up in the lake from which the local inhabitants extract the water to drink.
^The record highs and lows are based on the INTA link for the period 1951–1990 while records beyond 1990 come from the Oficina de Riesgo Agropecuario link since it only covers from 1970–present. As a result, the most extreme values from either source are used.
^In the Secretaria de Mineria and INTA link, the data from 1901-1950 corresponds to the data recorded in the downtown station (Bariloche Ciudad) while the data from 1951-1990 corresponds to the data recorded from the airport
^abRabassa, Jorge; Aliotta, Guida (1979). "Sedimentology of two superimposed tills in the Bariloche Moraine (Nahuelo Huapi Drift, Late Glacial), Rio Negro, Argentina". In Schlüchter, Ch. (ed.).Moraines and Varves. pp. 81–92.ISBN9061910390.