 Rogan josh | |
| Type | Curry |
|---|---|
| Course | Wazwan Main |
| Place of origin | Kashmir, underMughal Empire |
| Region or state | Kashmir Valley |
| Serving temperature | Hot |
| Main ingredients | Lamb orgoat,alkanet root |
Rogan josh (Kashmiri:[roːɡand͡ʒoːʃ]);English:/ˌroʊɡən ˈdʒɑʃ/),[1] also spelledroghan josh orroghan ghosht, is anaromaticcurried meat dish inKashmiri cuisine, from the time of theMughal Empire. It is one of the main dishes in thewazwan, the traditional multi-course Kashmiri feast.[2] Rogan josh is made withred meat—traditionallymutton orgoat, coloured and flavoured primarily byalkanet flower (or root) andKashmiri chillies. In Western usage, tomatoes are often used instead.
A variety of origins of the name have been suggested.Persian:Rawghan means "clarified butter"[3] or "oil" inPersian, whilePersian:jōš means to "stew" or "braise"[4] and ultimately derives from the verbPersian:jōšīdan meaning "to boil". Rogan josh, by this definition, would mean "stewed in ghee".[4] An alternative etymology is that the name derives from theKashmiri wordKashmiri:roghan, "red",[5] along with eitherKashmiri:gošt, "meat", often romanised as "rogan ghosht" or "gosht",[6] or a word meaning "juice", giving possible meanings of "red meat" or "red juice".[7] The exact etymology remains uncertain as both "rogan josh" and "rogan ghosht" are used for the dish, and it is unclear which of the names is the original.[6]
InPersian cuisine, rogan josh was a dish of meat fried in hot butter. It was brought to North India by theMughals in the 16th century. According to the food historianLizzie Collingham, the summer heat of thecentral Indian plains led the Mughals to spend time in the cooler northern region ofKashmir, bringingtheir cuisine with them. They then made use of Kashmiri herbs to colour and flavour their food. Rogan josh has become a staple ofKashmiri cuisine and is one of the main dishes of the Kashmiri multi-course meal, thewazwan.[3] Chilli peppers became available in India after thePortuguese brought them toGoa early in the 16th century.[3] The ancientspice trade had long since brought other spices from East Asia to the Indian subcontinent.[8][9]
Rogan josh consists of pieces oflamb or muttonbraised with a gravy flavoured withgarlic,ginger and aromatic spices (clove,bay leaves,cardamom, andcinnamon), and in some versions incorporating onions or yoghurt.[10] After initial braising, the dish is often finished using thedampokhtak slow-cooking technique.[12] Its characteristic deep red colour traditionally comes from herbs such as the dried flowers or root ofAlkanna tinctoria (ratan jot, dyer's alkanet)[7] or from Kashmiri red chilli (lal mirch).[13]
There are different approaches in preparation. Some usepraan, a local form ofshallot, and petals ofmaval, thecockscomb flower, for colouring (and for its supposed "cooling" effect);[10] others add yoghurt andasafoetida to give additional body and flavour.[10]
While the traditional preparation uses whole dried chillies that are de-seeded, soaked in water, and ground to a paste, non-traditional shortcuts use either Kashmirichilli powder or a mixture of paprika (predominantly) andcayenne pepper, adjusted to taste.Madhur Jaffrey suggests anything from 4 to 16 times as much paprika as cayenne.[14] An updated version served inSanjeev Kapoor's restaurants uses white and black cardamom, anise, and bay leaves.[15]
Western interpretations of the dish commonly add tomatoes to the sauce. Ready-made pour-over cooking sauces do this to the point where the dish can be considered tomato-based. The authenticity of including tomatoes is disputed: some authors state that tomatoes are not part of the traditional dish or of traditional Indian cuisine and should not be included.[16]British versions combine this with a commercial spice paste,[17] while British Indian restaurants sometimes use both tomatoes and red peppers to obtain the desired red colour.[11] Foreigners such as Americans visiting these restaurants had their first taste of Indian food, helping to spread the dish to other countries.[3]
Some authors have specifically referred to rogan josh as a dish based around meat and tomatoes,[18] while others have identified tomatoes with aPunjabi version of the dish.[19] There is a variety with beef,brisket being preferred.[20]
There are many different versions of this fiery dish from the Kashmir region of India (like those prepared by Hindu Brahmins, will preclude the use of onions, ginger and garlic) but they all share the deep red color that comes from adding the mild chili powder that is grown there.
4 teaspoons bright red paprika mixed with ¼–1 teaspoon cayenne powder
