| River Wharfe | |
|---|---|
Linton Falls, on the upper Wharfe nearGrassington | |
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| Location | |
| Country | England |
| Physical characteristics | |
| Source | |
| • location | Beckermonds, Langstrothdale Chase |
| • coordinates | 54°13′03″N2°11′39″W / 54.217481°N 2.194231°W /54.217481; -2.194231 |
| • elevation | 310 m (1,020 ft) |
| Mouth | |
• location | River Ouse at Wharfe's Mouth, nearCawood |
• coordinates | 53°50′39″N1°07′46″W / 53.8441°N 1.129544°W /53.8441; -1.129544 |
• elevation | 4.9 m (16 ft) |
| Length | 104.6 km (65.0 mi) |
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TheRiver Wharfe (/hwɔːrf/WHORF) is a river inYorkshire, England originating within theYorkshire Dales National Park. For much of its middle course it is the county boundary betweenWest Yorkshire andNorth Yorkshire. Its valley is known asWharfedale.
The watercourse first becomes known as the River Wharfe at the confluence of Greenfield Beck and Oughtershaw Beck atBeckermonds. Flowing initially throughLangstrothdale, it then passes by, or in some cases through,Kettlewell,Grassington,Bolton Abbey,Addingham,Ilkley,Burley-in-Wharfedale,Otley,Wetherby andTadcaster. It then flows into theRiver Ouse nearCawood. The section of the river from its source to around Addingham is in Upper Wharfedale and has a very different character to the river downstream.
The Wharfe is 65 miles (104.6 km) long (before it joins the Ouse), making it the 21st longest river in Britain.[1] It is a public navigation from the weir at Tadcaster to its junction with the Ouse near Cawood and is tidal fromUlleskelf to the Ouse.
The nameWharfe, at least in its present form, derives from theOld Norsehverfi meaning 'a bend, crook, turn', a name implying that the river was winding.[2][3][4] However, this Old Norse form was probably adapted from an earlier name: a Roman altar found inIlkley is inscribed "VERBEIAE SACRUM" ('sacred to Verbeia') and apparently refers to the River Wharfe (personified as a goddess). Theproto-Indo-Europeanroot *wer-, relating to turning or twisting, readily picked up a-b- extension to yield words such as Latin verbena, English warp, and their cognates, which displeases those who believe the name was created in a Celtic language. HencePatrick Sims-Williams's association of the name with Old Irishferb ('cattle') andAndrew Breeze's case for a meaning 'powerful striker'.[3][4][5]



The river is deemed to start at the confluence of Oughtershaw Beck and Green Field Beck in Langstrothdale near Beckermonds. It flows east and south-east taking the flows from several small streams originating onYockenthwaite Moor on the north bank and Horse Head Moor on the south bank. AfterHubberholme, the river flows south past Buckden and Starbotton and then south-east pastKettlewell before flowing south again. NearConistone are the gentle waterfalls of Scar Lash. Near Grassington, the river turns south-east over Linton Falls. South ofAppletreewick, the river flows south-west for a short distance until it reaches Gill Beck and returns southward. To the north of Bolton Bridge, the river narrows and goes over waterfalls in an area known as The Strid. The river winds south and south-east towardsIlkley where it heads east throughOtley andCollingham. It briefly flows north toWetherby before turning south and then south-east throughTadcaster to the confluence with theRiver Ouse.
The Strid (grid reference: SE 064565;54°00′14″N1°54′12″W / 54.00389°N 1.90333°W /54.00389; -1.90333) is a series of waterfalls and rapids contained within a 15-foot (4.6 m) deep channel cut into the local sandstone. The River Wharfe narrows dramatically here from approximately 90 ft (27 m) wide, just to the north of the start of the Strid, to about 6.5 ft (2 m) wide.[6][7][8] It is especially dangerous as both banks are undercut,[9][10] and it has been the scene of a number of fatalities, including those of a honeymooning couple in 1998.[11] The Strid walk is very popular and is accessed from the car park at Bolton Abbey.[12]
Its name comes from theOld Englishstryth, meaning 'turmoil'. This was later corrupted toStrid, referring to 'the possibility of striding across'.[13]
The Strid's hazardous nature is referenced in several literary works, includingThe Force of Prayer byWilliam Wordsworth, andThe Striding Place byGertrude Atherton.
Linton Falls (grid reference: SE 001633) are located close to the village ofLinton, just south ofGrassington. There is a footbridge straddling the falls for viewing.
| Monitoring station[14] | Station elevation | Low water level | High water level | Record high level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Kettlewell | 212 m (696 ft) | 0.17 m (0.56 ft) | 2 m (6.6 ft) | 2.54 m (8.3 ft) |
| Grassington | 171 m (561 ft) | 0 m (0 ft) | 1.5 m (4.9 ft) | 2.79 m (9.2 ft) |
| Ilkley | 78 m (256 ft) | 0.09 m (0.30 ft) | 2.9 m (9.5 ft) | 3.88 m (12.7 ft) |
| Otley | 56 m (184 ft) | 0.36 m (1.2 ft) | 1.5 m (4.9 ft) | 2.46 m (8.1 ft) |
| Pool Bridge | 46 m (151 ft) | 0.09 m (0.30 ft) | 2.9 m (9.5 ft) | 3.77 m (12.4 ft) |
| Arthington | 46 m (151 ft) | 0.32 m (1.0 ft) | 3.3 m (11 ft) | 4.14 m (13.6 ft) |
| Collingham | 25 m (82 ft) | 0.35 m (1.1 ft) | 1.59 m (5.2 ft) | 4.7 m (15 ft) |
| Wetherby | 25 m (82 ft) | 0.4 m (1.3 ft) | 1.8 m (5.9 ft) | 3.10 m (10.2 ft) |
| Tadcaster | 11 m (36 ft) | 0.18 m (0.59 ft) | 2.9 m (9.5 ft) | 3.79 m (12.4 ft) |
| Cock Beck Sluices | 6 m (20 ft) | 3.44 m (11.3 ft) | 7.3 m (24 ft) | 9.26 m (30.4 ft) |
| Fleet Pumping Station | 6 m (20 ft) | 2 m (6.6 ft) | 6.5 m (21 ft) | 7.35 m (24.1 ft) |
A serious flood in 1686 carried away a number of bridges and buildings.[15]
More than 230 species of bird have been observed along the river valley includingred grouse,stonechat,whinchat,golden plover,pied flycatcher,redstart,wood warbler,common sandpiper,grey wagtail,dipper,tawny owl,sparrowhawk,great spotted woodpecker,nuthatch,treecreeper and, in wetter places,common snipe andwoodcock,chiffchaff,willow warbler,garden warbler, andtwite.[16]
The Wharfe has populations ofsignal crayfish and the fewwhite-clawed crayfish remaining are at great risk.[16] The river is also home to a colony offine-lined pea mussels. The creature is mostly congregated in rivers in Wales and central and southern England; the presence of the mussels in the Wharfe has been noted as a "considerable outpost".[17]
There are populations ofrabbit,red fox,grey squirrel,otter,water voles anddeer.[16][18][19]
Ferns found here includewall rue,maidenhair spleenwort,brittle bladder-fern,Hart's-tongue andhard shield-fern. In Upper Wharfedale the scars and screes support a range of plants including thealpine cinquefoil andhoary whitlowgrass. Also to be found arelesser meadow-rue,goldenrod,scabious andbloody crane's-bill with, to a lesser extent,mountain melick,limestone fern,wood crane's-bill andmelancholy thistle,green spleenwort,wall lettuce andhairy stonecrop.[16]
Lower down the valley, species includingalpine cinquefoil,lily-of-the-valley,mountain melick andherb paris,blue sesleria,common valerian andwild angelica. The limestone outcrops have uncommon species includingrock whitebeam andSolomon's seal as well asbird's-eye primrose,butterwort,rockrose,dropwort andlimestone bedstraw.
The limestone pavements of the area are a habitat for several species usually confined to woodlands, such asdog's mercury,wood anemone andramsons. Rarer species to be found in the grikes includebaneberry anddowny currant. Ferns in the moist grikes includerigid buckler-fern. Also to be found arealternate-leaved golden saxifrage,reed canary-grass andstone bramble.
Some of the inaccessible cliffs are home to ledge dwelling flora including mosses and liverworts, such asred leskea,sharp rock-bristle and the very rareZygodon gracilis. The ledges also supportwoodrush,polypody andwater avens,purple saxifrage,yellow saxifrage, hoary whitlowgrass androseroot.
Blue moor-grass can also be found, withsheep's-fescue and herbs such asthyme,salad burnet andcommon rock-rose. There iswild thyme,common milkwort,fairy flax,bird's-foot trefoil,autumn gentian,harebell,eyebright.
Species of tree and shrub includeash,downy birch,hazel,hawthorn,yew androwan. In the woods shrubs such aswild privet andspindle can be found. More rare isdark red helleborine.[16][20]
Upper Wharfedale is an area whose rocks date from theEarly Carboniferous period and lies north-west ofBurnsall. Its main features are the Great Scar Limestone which forms a base to the overlying Yoredale Beds, a 300-metre (980 ft) deep strata of hardlimestones,sandstones andshale. These have been slightly tilted, toward the east. To the south-east of the area is theMillstone Grit laid down in theLate Carboniferous period, and covered by heather moorland, hard crags and tors.[21][22]
Weathering of the Yoredale Beds has produced a stepped profile to the valley sides, consisting of a shelf of limestone, sometimes grassy but often displaying suchkarst features aslimestone pavement, gorges andsinkholes. During the last ice age, the local ice cap at the head of the Dales fed glaciers to produce the classic U-shaped profiles seen today.[23]
Where the river valley changes course into Lower Wharfedale, the change of underlying rock can be seen in the darker stone in the field walls. The Millstone Grit outcrops at the Cow and Calf Rocks near Ilkley form a rolling dissected plateau. Due to the impermeable nature of the rock,blanket bogs and mires form, and drier areas have wet and dry heaths and acid grasslands.[24]
Coarse sandstones in the area are known as Addingham Edge and Bramhope Grits. The Otley Shell Beds become exposed at Otley Chevin. At Great Dib Wood the Otley Shell Bed is sandwiched between twoNamurian sandstones.
Glacial lakes once filled Lower Wharfedale in which were deposited sand and gravel. These deposits were extracted and now form the basis of the Otley Wetland Reserve, andBen Rhydding and Knotford Nook gravel pits.[25]
The name Wharfe appears to be recorded in the formVerbeiae on a Roman inscription atIlkley, dedicated toVerbeia, thought to be thetutelary goddess of the river. The name is probably ofBrythonic origin, from a root meaning "winding". Later forms of the name were probably influenced by theOld Norsehwerfi, meaning "bend".[26]
Iron Age fields andhut circles can still be seen in outline on the hills above Grassington and Kettlewell.[22] The Romans built a road through Wharfedale that went over Stake Moss into neighbouringWensleydale. The local British tribe of Brigantes were subdued by the Romans in AD 74. The Romans mined lead in the hills on Greenhow Hill overlooking Appletreewick until AD 410.[22] After AD 620 theRomano-Britons were joined by Angles and increased the amount of forest clearing to establish fields for crops and animals. These were overrun by Danes initially before they too settled to farming near Burnsall and Thorpe. Vikings then settled the area in the 10th century, lending their language to some of the names of hamlets and landscape features of Upper Wharfedale, especially near the head of the valley.[22] During Anglo-Saxon times, large estates were established and the River Wharfe and its valley came under the protection of Earl Edwin of Bolton-in-Craven. After the Norman invasion, the lands were given to Robert Romilly.[22]
In medieval times low intensity methods were used to produce both crops and livestock but the great monasteries ofFountains,Rievaulx andBolton Priory had large sheep flocks and sold their wool on the European market. In 1155, Alice de Romilly donated land for the establishment of Bolton Priory and land at Kilnsey to Fountains Abbey. The monasteries helped develop vast sheep farms and the founding ofdrove roads, which can still be seen and walked today. The success of the monasteries was also responsible for the growth of the market towns of Grassington and Kettlewell.[22]
When the monasteries were dissolved in 1539, and wool prices fell, many tenant farmers took to cattle and sheep rearing. However, at the end of the 17th century there was still small-scale arable production. By the early 19th century there was a demand for food from the growing industrial towns and farmers and many farms began to produce milk from the lower lands and use the higher fells for sheep.[27]
On 5 July 2014, theTour de France Stage 1 from Leeds to Harrogate passed through Wharfedale along roads running close to the river. The route in Wharfedale started near the official start at Harewood and ended just after Buckden when the competitors turned to climb over Kidstones Pass near Cray.[28]
The river has featured in films. In 1992, the town ofGrassington was used as a filming location forWuthering Heights.[29] The 2003 film,Calendar Girls, was filmed at several locations in the river valley includingIlkley Moor,Buckden,Burnsall,Kettlewell andKilnsey.[30]
During the 1990s there had been an increase in second home ownership, particularly in the Upper Wharfedale area. The 1991 census had shown 13% of homes in theCraven district were classified as second properties.[31] The 2001 census showed that the figure for Upper Wharfedale was 15%,[32] but it had dropped to only 7% by 2011.[33]
Upper Wharfedale has been traditionally associated with farming, but there has been a change in the numbers and types of employment. Whilst there were declines in the number of people in this industry, farming accounted directly for 9.16%[34] of employment in 2001 but this had increased to 11.27% by 2011.[35]
Lead mining was once the main industry in Wharfedale. From the 17th century to the late 19th century it employed hundreds of men and boys, exploiting the veins in the limestone at Greenhow, Hebden, Grassington, Linton and Conistone, Appletreewick and elsewhere. The heaps of mining waste remain, contaminated with lead, and on which little will grow. The few plants that will are known as'lead plants' such asspring sandwort andalpine penny-cress.[36][37]
Tourism is important to the rural economy of Wharfedale and there are many short, mid and long-distance walks, with clear waymarkers. Other outdoor activities take place such as rock climbing, most notably at Kilnsey Crag, kayaking and canoeing. Other activities include cycling, mountain biking, horse riding and caving.[38] Several long-distance walks pass near or over the river:[39]
The Wharfe has two hydro-electric generating plants;Burley (at Greenholme Mill in Burley in Wharfedale), which opened in August 2011[40] andLinton Falls, which opened in March 2012.[41]
All lists are ordered downstream from the source of the river:-[42]
Tributaries[edit]
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| Crossings[edit]
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