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Ring (jewellery)

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Round band worn as ornamental jewellery

Ruby ring

Aring is a round band, usually made ofmetal, worn as ornamentaljewelry. The term "ring" by itself denotes jewellery worn on the finger; when worn as an ornament elsewhere, the body part is specified within the term, e.g., earrings,neck rings,arm rings, andtoe rings. Rings fit snugly around or in the part of the body theyornament, so bands worn loosely, like abracelet, are not rings. Rings may be made of almost any hard material: wood,bone,stone, metal, glass, jade,gemstone or plastic. They may be set with gemstones (diamond,ruby,sapphire oremerald) or with other types of stone or glass.

Although some people wear rings as mere ornaments or as conspicuous displays of wealth, rings have symbolic functions respecting marriage, exceptional achievement, high status or authority, membership in an organization, and the like. Rings can be made to sportinsignia which may be impressed on a wax seal or outfitted with a small compartment in which to conceal things.

Anatomy

[edit]
Anatomy of a solitary ring

A typical ring includes the following parts:

  • Theshank ("hoop") is the band of the ring that encircles the finger.[1] It is the metal part that forms the ring itself, excluding the setting;
  • Theshoulders are the upper sides of the ring shank that rise to meet the setting (or head). They serve as the transition point between the band and the main gemstone. Shoulders are often thickened, raised, or decorated to provide structural support for the setting and to integrate the head visually with the shank;
  • Thehead (also known assetting) sits atop the shank and physically holds the gemstone. It might includes theprongs (claws),bezel,collet, or gallery wire that secures the stone;
  • Thegallery is a decorative band usually mass-produced with a row of perforations. In the pre-made form, the boundary of each hole is closed (aclosed gallery). Cutting the boundaries of the holes creates a series of U-shapes that can be used as prongs (an open gallery).[1]

History

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Ancient India

[edit]

Rings[2] and other types of jewelry including necklaces, bracelets, earrings, bangles and pendants have been discovered from the 3rd millennium BCEIndus Valley civilization. Factories of small beads have been discovered inLothal, India.[3]

Ancient Near East

[edit]

Rings have been found in tombs inUr dating back to circa 2500 BC.[4] TheHittite civilization produced rings, including signet rings, only a few of which have been discovered.[5] People inOld Kingdom Egypt wore a variety of rings, of which a few examples have been found, including the famousscarab design.[5] Rings became more common during the EgyptianMiddle Kingdom, containing increasingly complex designs.[5] Egyptians made not only metal rings but rings fromfaience, some of which were used as new year gifts.[6] Native styles were superseded by Greek and Roman fashions during thePtolemaic dynasty.[5]

Archaic and classical Greek

[edit]

Archaic Greek rings were to some extent influenced by Egyptian rings, although they tended to be less substantial and were not generally used as working signet rings.[7] As gold was not locally available, rings made in the eastern colonies tended to be made from silver and bronze, whileEtruscans used gold.[7]

The classical period showed a shift away from bronze to a wider adoption of silver and gold. The most typical design of the period involved a lozenge bezel mounting anintaglio device.[8] Over time, the bezel moved towards a more circular form.[8]

Roman

[edit]
Henig II rings from theSnettisham Jeweller's Hoard

During the early and middleimperial era (first two centuries AD), a typical Roman ring consisted of a thick hoop that tapered directly into a slightly wider bezel.[9] An engraved oval gem would be embedded within the bezel with the top of the gem only rising slightly above the surrounding ring material.[9] Such rings are known as Henig II and III / Guiraud 2 in technical parlance or simply as Roman rings to modern jewellers.[9] In general, Roman rings became more elaborate in the third and fourth centuries AD.[10]

Germanic

[edit]
Main article:Rings in early Germanic cultures

Rings were highly important inearly Germanic cultures, being worn variously on arms, fingers and necks. They had a central role in the interconnected roles of swearing oaths, affirming loyalty through gifting, and in financial transactions.[11][12] They further feature prominently in Germanic mythology and legend and are widely distributed in the archaeological record, being frequently found across the Germanic-speaking world between theMigration Period and into theViking Age.[11]

High and Late Middle Ages in Europe

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During this period, it was fashionable for several rings to be worn on each hand and each finger. Rings during this period were mostly made from copper-based alloys, silver or gold.[13] Gems became common after 1150, along with the belief that certain gems had the power to help or protect the wearer in various ways.[13] Engraved rings were produced usingLombardic script until around 1350, when it was replaced byGothic script.[13] Some of the inscriptions were devotional, others romantic in nature.[13][14] For romantic inscriptions, French was the language of choice.[14] An increasing use of contracts and other documents requiring formal seals meant thatsignet rings became more important from the 13th century onwards.[13]

Ring location

[edit]
Episcopal rings for bishops and archbishops. (Musée national du Moyen Âge,hôtel de Cluny, Paris)

Each finger had a symbolic association or meaning (most of which were lost in antiquity and varied with culture) for the placement of a ring, significant to observers.

The fourth digit orring finger of the left hand has become the customary place to wear betrothal, engagement and wedding rings in much of the world, though in certain countries the right hand finger is used.[15] This custom was practically established as norm duringWorld War II.[16]

The use of the fourth finger of the left hand (the 'ring finger') is associated with an old belief that the left hand's ring finger is connected by a vein directly to the heart: thevena amoris, or vein of love. This idea was in vogue in the 16th and 17th century England, whenHenry Swinburne referred to it in his book about marriage.[17] It can be traced toancient Rome, whenAulus Gellius citedAppianus as saying that theancient Egyptians had found a fine nerve linking the fourth finger to the heart.[18]

Occasionally rings have been re-purposed to hang from bracelets or necklaces.[19]

Thesignet ring is traditionally worn on the left pinky or little finger.[20]

Abirthstone ring and/or "birthday" stone ring is customarily worn on the first finger of the right hand and indicates respectively the month and day of the week in and on which the bearer was born.

Amulet rings, meaningful for various purposes from protection (pentacle rings) to augmenting personal attributes (wisdom, confidence, social status etc.), are worn on various fingers, often depending on the intent of the ring's design or attributes of the stone inset. Although it has been thought that amulet rings worn on specific fingers for specific purposes enhanced their powers, most people simply wear them on any finger on which they fit.

Thumb rings were originally worn to protect the thumb from injuries caused by the launching of arrows and are a sign of anarcher.

Size

[edit]
Main article:Ring size

While theISO standard defines ring size in terms of the inner circumference (measured in millimeters), various countries still use traditional sizing systems. Sizing beads, which functionally reduce the ring size, are small metal beads added to the inner surface of a ring to hold it in place against the finger; they have the advantage of being easily added or removed.

Styles

[edit]

After several thousand years of ring manufacture, the total number of styles produced is vast. Even cataloging the rings of a single civilization, such as the Romans, presents a major challenge. As a result, the following list should be considered to be very limited.

RingImageUsage
Acrostic ringA ring on which gemstones are arranged to spell a word or name with the gemstones' initials in anacrostic style. Often, sentimental words such as 'dearest' and 'regards' or 'regard' are used.
Aqiq ringAcarnelian or agate ring worn by some Muslims in imitation ofMuhammad.
Birthstone ringUsually a slender, simple ring (sometimes consisting of a band), set with the wearer's birthstone or the birthstone of the wearer's spouse. Such birthstone rings as the Mother's ring can be worn set with various birthstones. Some couples wear birthstones set with a wedding anniversary month birthstone as well as other commemorative stones.
Cameo (carving) ringA plain hoop mounted by a table setting, into which is affixed a carved cameo. This ring style is exceedingly ancient and was more commonly worn by men than women. Ancient cameos depicted pagan gods, Christian saints and even self-portraits. Multi-coloured stone and often marble or porphyry was most desirable, as it produced a striped, layered or three-dimensional effect. The modern cameo ring usually shows the profile of a goddess or a Roman soldier.
Championship ring a.k.a. sports ringA ring presented to members of winning teams in professional sports leagues as well as college tournaments in the Americas. The best known of these are theSuper Bowl ring andWorld Series ring. Also, in professional American sports leagues—such as theNational Football League (NFL) andMajor League Baseball (MLB)—the runners-up of the league championship game/series are awarded a ring, being the champion of their conference (sub-league).
Claddagh ringAn Irish friendship, courtship or engagement ring. It is traditionally used to indicate the state of romantic availability. In recent times it is commonly worn as a wedding ring. In centuries past, this ring was bequeathed from a mother to daughter, though men also wore it.
Class ringWorn by students and alumni in commemoration of their graduation.
Cocktail ringAn oversized ladies' ring with a large center stone often surrounded by tiny stones. Nearly any oversized ladies' ring may be termed "cocktail". This is the most common type of costume jewellery ring and is also known as acluster ring,statement ring and/ordinner ring.[21]
Doctoral ringA gold ring worn by a scholar who earns a doctoral degree at a Danish or Swedish university. In America it is common for priests who have earned their doctorate in theology to wear such a ring on the ring finger of their right hand.
Ecclesiastical ringA religious ring, either of authority for clerics or as some other special religious symbol. When worn by bishops or higher-ranking priests, it is called "Episcopal ring".
Elephant hair ringA ring made from fallen elephant tail hair worn in the belief that it will provide the wearer with protection.[22]
Engagement ringA ring was given to and worn by a woman signifying her engagement to be married.
Eternity ringA ring symbolizing eternity with a partner. These are often given in lieu of engagement rings, as when former UK Prime MinisterGordon Brown purchased one for his wife (as a recompense for not having originally proposed to her with an engagement ring).[23]
Eye ringAlso called a "Lover's eye ring". Popularised in 1784, when the Prince Regent (laterGeorge IV) fell forMaria Fitzherbert[24]
Fede ringA ring style featuring two clasped hands.
Finger armor ring [fr]A ring style which spans from the base of the finger to just below the fingernail or middle of the second joint. This type of ring includes a bending joint.
Gay Pride ring (a.k.a. "Rainbow ring")Representing gay pride, a ring which is usually a band, either set with seven stones or inlaid with seven enamelled lines, in the seven colours representing theRainbow flag (LGBT movement). In decades past, a stone-set ring worn on the right hand ring finger or the pinky of either hand represented a call for gay equality.[citation needed]
Giardinetti ringItalian for 'little garden' a design which features an openwork bezel containing multiple small stones.[25] It was most prominent in the second half of the 18th century.[25]
Gimmal ringRing made of 2 or 3 hoops that are hinged at the back and meant to interlock and open; popular for betrothals in 16th- and 17th-century Europe
Guard ring (a.k.a. ring-guard)A slender, slightly tighter-fitting ring designed to be placed on the finger after a large/loose ring, to prevent slippage and ring loss.[26]
Iron Ring, andEngineer's RingRing worn by American and Canadian engineers, after swearing theEngineer's Oath. This is often in the form of a crudely worked piece of iron; modern rings tend to be sleek steel, some with etched geometric designs. The ring is meant to be worn on the pinky (little) finger of the dominant hand at all times. This ring has been loosely associated with Rudyard Kipling.
Key ringA ring with a key mounted on the bezel. Used by the Romans as both a means of carrying a key to their family valuables chest and to demonstrate their status within the family.[27]
Memento mori ringLargely dating from the 16th to the 17th centuries, memento rings featured a skull and the inscriptionMemento Mori ("Remember Death") sometimes combined with other features.[28]
Midi ringA ring worn above the knuckle.[29]
Mood ringA novelty ring which changes colour in response to body temperature, using athermochromic liquid crystal.
Mother's ringA ring worn by a mother displaying thebirthstone of each of her children, and sometimes including those of the mother and father.[citation needed]
Mourning ringA ring worn in memory of someone who has died.[30] Also commonly called a "memorial ring". Use attested from at least the 14th century AD to the late 19th century.[30]
Multi-finger ringTwo or more laterally conjoined rings, designed to be worn on two, three, or four fingers;[31] popularized byhip-hop culture.[32]
Penannular ringFound in gold or gilded metal fromBronze Age Britain, these small thick incomplete circles are the wrong size and shape to be finger-rings and were probably worn as nose or ear-rings or attached to the hair or clothing.[33]
Poison ringA ring consisting of a bezel with a compartment. Despite the name they were probably more commonly used to hold things like perfume or romantic keepsakes.[34]
Posie ringA ring with a lengthy inscription on its outer surface. These were commonly used as engagement and wedding rings. Also referred to as "posy" or "poesy" rings in reference to the line of poetry most commonly used in the inscription.
Portrait ringRing with a small portrait, most common during the 17th century
Pre-engagement ringA small, inexpensive ring given to a partner, signifying the promise not to court anyone else.[35]
Prison ringA typically plastic ring fashioned by hand in prisons.[36]
Promise ringA ring worn to remind a person of a promise. These evolved in conjunction with wedding and religious vow rings in the sense that the ring represented the vow/promise.
Purity ringA symbol of virginity and a vow to keep virginity in some religious cultures.
Puzzle ringInterlocking rings forming a single band. A famous example is the classic Cartier "Trinity" wedding ring.
Rosary ringAlso known as aDecade ring.[37] Ring worn around the finger with 10 indentations (or protrusions) and a cross as a bezel, representing one decade of a rosary. The rings are used to keep track of place in the prayer by rotating the ring on a finger and feeling the marks.
Sewing ringAn early form ofthimble
Signet ring

An emblematic ring, often bearing a family coat of arms, some of which are fit for use to imprint a waxseal. In the event a seal or at least a representation of a seal is on the ring, it is called a "seal ring". The signet may bear anything from a custom-designedescutcheon to simple initials, in which case it is known as aninitial ring.
Sovereign ringA large solid gold ring set with agold sovereign.[citation needed]
SS-EhrenringNazi "honor ring" or "ring of honor". A plain silver band decorated with a death's head. Awarded to members of the Nazi SS (Schutzstaffel). A similar ring (in the form of a death's head) was also favored by the SS-SD (Schutzstaffel-Sicherheitsdienst) and was very secretive in design. There were in fact several different award rings during the Third Reich.[38]
Technology ringThe Technology ring is worn in Canada by certified engineering and applied science technologists and technicians.[39] Like anIron Ring, it is worn on the little finger of the working (dominant) hand.
Thumb ringOriginally thumb rings were used as anarchery implement, mainly in eastern styles of archery. Thumb rings are an ancient custom.
Watch ringA small watch fashioned to be worn as a ring.[40]
Wedding ringA ring presented at the time of marriage to signify espousal and marital commitment. Originally worn only by women, it is now common for both spouses to wear such a ring.

Notable rings

[edit]
The fictionalOne Ring

Historical and current

[edit]

Mythology and folklore

[edit]
Main article:List of mythological objects § Rings
  • Ring of Gyges, a legendary ring of invisibility, mentioned by Plato
  • Andvaranaut, a cursed ring that can find gold in Norse mythology
  • Magic ring, a ring that has magical properties
  • Draupnir, a self-multiplying gold ring in Norse mythology

Fiction

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Safety

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A jeweler using a ring cutter to remove a stuck ring. The cutter has a guard placed under the ring, and a circular saw blade is turned by hand to cut the ring.

Wearing a ring can in some cases be a safety concern, when the ring is made of a material stronger than the hand, fully encircles the digit, and catches onto an immovable object. This can result in serious injury (degloving),amputation, or ring avulsion.[41] Some recommend specifically not to use a ring while operating machinery or playing sports.

If a ring catches on rotating machinery, or the ring of a falling person catches on a stationary object, the wearer may suffer injury. For these reasons, some workplaces require employees to remove their rings temporarily while performing certain tasks or when in certain areas of a workplace. Despite the ring's symbolic appeal as a solid band around the finger, modern jewelers are sometimes known to modify rings such that, at worst, they only tear the flesh of the wearer's finger in cases like those above-mentioned.[citation needed] Such "breakaway" modifications have not yet achieved popularity as standard designs.[citation needed]

A method of removing a ring

If the area near a ring is injured, the ring is removed immediately, before the injury starts to swell.[42] Pulling rings off forcefully may worsen the swelling. Relaxation, elevation, icing, lubrication, and rotating the ring as if unscrewing it may help. If these methods do not work, it may be possible to remove the ring by temporarily wrapping the finger with a slick string (such as dental floss), passing the inner end of the thread under the ring, and then unwrapping it, pushing the ring ahead of the unwrapping string. Failing that, a doctor may remove it by other methods.[43]

Other types

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See also

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References

[edit]
  1. ^abYoung 2012, p. 201.
  2. ^Studies in the Development of Ornaments and Jewellery in Proto-historic India. Vol. 41. p. 130.Finger rings and ring stones have been found at practically all levels of the Indus Valley Civilization.
  3. ^Williams, Brian (2016).Daily Life in the Indus Valley Civilization. Raintree. p. 27.ISBN 9781406298574 – via Google.
  4. ^Tait, Hugh, ed. (2006).7000 Years of Jewellery. British Museum Press. pp. 23–24.ISBN 9780714150321.
  5. ^abcdTaylor, Gerald; Scarisbrick, Diana (1978).Finger Rings from Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. Ashmolean Museum. p. 31.ISBN 0-900090-54-5.
  6. ^Ogden, Jack (1992).Ancient Jewellery Interpreting the Past. University of California Press. p. 60.ISBN 0520080300 – viaInternet Archive.
  7. ^abTaylor, Gerald; Scarisbrick, Diana (1978).Finger Rings from Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. Ashmolean Museum. p. 33.ISBN 0-900090-54-5.
  8. ^abTaylor, Gerald; Scarisbrick, Diana (1978).Finger Rings from Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. Ashmolean Museum. p. 34.ISBN 0-900090-54-5.
  9. ^abcJohns, Catherine (1996).The Jewellery of Roman Britain Celtic and classical Traditions. Routledge. p. 42.ISBN 9780415516129.
  10. ^Johns, Catherine (1996).The Jewellery of Roman Britain Celtic and classical Traditions. Routledge. p. 48.ISBN 9780415516129.
  11. ^abSimek, Rudolf (2008).A Dictionary of Northern Mythology. Translated by Hall, Angela. BOYE6. pp. 65–66,312–313.ISBN 9780859915137.
  12. ^Jarman, Cat (2021).River Kings: A new history of Vikings from Scandinavia to the Silk Roads. London: Harper Collins Publishers. p. 212.ISBN 9780008353117.
  13. ^abcdeCampbell, Marian (2009).Medieval Jewellery in Europe 1100–1500. V&A Publishing. pp. 72–79.ISBN 9781851775828.
  14. ^abCampbell, Marian (2009).Medieval Jewellery in Europe 1100–1500. V&A Publishing. pp. 92–94.ISBN 9781851775828.
  15. ^Kunz, George Frederick, (1911)Rings for the Finger.
  16. ^McCarthy, James Remington, (1945)Rings Through The Ages.
  17. ^Swinburne, "Treatise of Spousal", 1680
  18. ^Gellius, Attic Nights, X, 10
  19. ^Church, Rachel (2014).Rings. V&A Publishing. p. 55.ISBN 9781851777853.
  20. ^Henderson, Jeffrey."PLINY THE ELDER, Natural History".Loeb Classical Library. Retrieved9 November 2019.
  21. ^"The History of Statement Rings".FWCJ. 12 July 2016. Retrieved26 October 2020.
  22. ^Greene, Alexander M (2021)."Speaking with an upside-down tongue: Reflections on human-elephant multispecies culture in northern Thailand"(PDF).Gajah.53:4–19. Retrieved25 April 2024.
  23. ^Rosanna Greenstreet (24 April 2010)."Election Q&A: Gordon Brown | Politics".The Guardian. London. Retrieved7 November 2012.
  24. ^"Will you fall for a "lover's eye" jewel?".Financial Times. 23 November 2021.
  25. ^ab"Giardinetti ring".ashmus.ox.ac.uk. University of Oxford – Ashmolean Museum. Archived fromthe original on 9 October 2016. Retrieved17 March 2015.
  26. ^Gänsicke, Susanne; Markowitz, Yvonne J. (2019).Looking at Jewelry - A Guide to Terms, Styles, and Techniques. J. Paul Getty Trust. p. 109.ISBN 9781606066102.
  27. ^"Ring".V&A Images. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved12 January 2013.
  28. ^Taylor, Gerald; Scarisbrick, Diana (1978).Finger Rings from Ancient Egypt to the Present Day. Ashmolean Museum. p. 76.ISBN 0-900090-54-5.
  29. ^Freer, Alison (14 August 2018). "Rings: Why and how".The Accessory Handbook - A Costume Designer's Secrets for Buying, Wearing, and Caring for Accessories. Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed.ISBN 9780399580819.
  30. ^abTait, Hugh, ed. (2006).7000 Years of Jewellery. British Museum Press. p. 239.ISBN 9780714150321.
  31. ^Erlanger, Micaela (3 April 2018). "Rings".How to Accessorize - A Perfect Finish to Every Outfit. Clarkson Potter/Ten Speed.ISBN 9781524761158.
  32. ^de Paor-Evans, Dr Adam (July 2023).Hip Hop in The Sticks: A Deepening Con/Text. Squagle House/Rhythm Obscura. p. 216.ISBN 9781399953801.
  33. ^Megalithic Portal, 2007, quotingBritish Museum curator.Hull Museums
  34. ^Hix, Lisa (22 January 2014)."From Hummingbird Heads to Poison Rings: Indulging Our Antique Jewelry Obsession".Collectors Weekly. Market Street Media. Retrieved7 March 2014.
  35. ^Coghlan, Claire."What Is a Promise Ring? The Real Meaning and Purpose".The Knot. Retrieved26 October 2020.
  36. ^Grasso, Tony (1996).Bakelite Jewellery A Collector's guide. The Apple Press. pp. 94–98.ISBN 1850766134.
  37. ^"Decade ring".ashmus.ox.ac.uk. University of Oxford – Ashmolean Museum. Archived fromthe original on 9 October 2016. Retrieved16 March 2015.
  38. ^JAV Designs."Schutzstaffel: The SS". Germaniainternational.com. Retrieved13 August 2012.
  39. ^"Technology ring". Certified Technicians and Technologists of Manitoba.Archived from the original on 14 February 2026. Retrieved14 February 2026.
  40. ^Turner, Anthony; Nye, James; Betts, Jonathan (2022).A General History of Horology.Oxford University Press. p. 474.ISBN 9780198863915.
  41. ^Article on finger safety while wearing rings in the workplace
  42. ^"Finger, Hand, and Wrist Injuries".HealthLink BC. Britich Columbia Ministry of Health. Retrieved13 November 2021.
  43. ^"Removing a Ring From a Finger or Toe".HealthLink BC. Retrieved13 November 2021.

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