The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom.
The technical difficultygrading system foraid climbing (both for "original" and an adapted version for "new wave"), which goes: A0, A1, A2, A3, A4, A5 and up to A6 (for "new wave"). SeeC-grade.[4]
A technique by which a climber descends via afixed rope that is firmly attached to a fixedanchor point, which is also known as an "abseil station". Seetat andcord.
Type ofprotection that dynamically changes to absorb the shape and strength of a fall; active protection is the opposite ofpassive protection. Seecams andfriends.
Part of thealpine climbing system forgrading the technical difficulty of alpine climbing routes, which goes: F ("facile/easy"), PD ("peu difficile/little difficult"), AD ("assez difficile/fairly hard"), D ("difficile/difficult"), TD ("très difficile/very hard"), and ED ("extrêmement difficile/extremely difficult"); ED then goes ED1, ED2, ED3, .. etc.[4][6]
alpine knee
An awkwardclimbing technique where the knee is placed on the hold rather than the foot.[7]
alpine start
Starting a climb very early in the morning, generally before 5:00a.m. (and even much earlier); common toalpine climbing to avoid afternoon rockfalls and melting snow on the route, or to get firmer ice on the glacier travel to and from the route.[2]
Anarmchair landingA technique indeep-water soloing for entering shallower water where the climber needs to avoid deeper hazards in the water; executed properly a 30-foot (9.1 m) fall can be absorbed in just 5 feet (1.5 m) of water.[8]
A hazardous mistake of clipping the rope into aquickdraw so the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over the top of it; if the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate, causing it to open and fail.[1][10]
back-step
Aback-stepStepping on a hold where the outside edge — little toe side — of the shoe touches the rock.[1][11][12]
bail
To retreat from a climb.
ball nut
A type ofprotection device consisting of a nut and a movable ball used for very small thin cracks.[13]
barn-door
A potentialbarn door swing to the rightWhen all four points of contact are on a straight axis, the body can swing uncontrollably on this axis. Seeflagging.[2]
Glasses that are worn by thebelayer to help them avoid having to look upward, which can cause neck strain.[14]
belay gloves
Belay gloveGloves that are worn by thebelayer to protect their skin in the event of sudden rope movement and to aid grip.[14]
belay loop
The strongest point on a climbingharness, and the loop to which abelay device is physically attached.[1][2]
belay off
Aclimbing command from abelayer to confirm that the friction ofbelaying has been removed from a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "off belay" request.[15]
belay on
Aclimbing command from abelayer to confirm that the friction ofbelaying has been (re)applied to a climbing rope. It is a standard response to a climber's "on belay" request.[15]
Information on how to complete (or protect) a particular climbing route. Seeon-sight andflash.[1][2][3]
beta break
Insport climbing, a move on a climbing route other than the move originally intended by the route setter. In bouldering, a move other than the move usually used on the boulder.
Arock-climbing technique foroverhangs where the feet "pinch-hold" a foothold by one foot pushing down on it while the other foot pulls up on it (i.e. like the pedals on a bicycle).[17]
Big wall climbingA long sustained sheer exposed rock climb withat least 6–10pitches (over 300–500 metres), that typically takes over a day (if not many days), and requires the hauling of food, water, sleeping bags, and the use ofportaledges.[1]
Where thebelayer uses their body, and not a mechanicalbelay device, to increase braking force when belaying; usually involves wrapping the rope around their waist or hip.[19]
boinking
Asport climbing technique to get back onto the wall after falling by pulling on the rope to un-weight it, allowing the belayer totake in theslack quickly; avoids the fallen climber having to return to the ground.[20]
bollard
SnowbollardA large block of rock or ice that is used as ananchor to construct abelay.
The deliberate removal ofbolts from a climb; happens ontraditional climbing routes (e.g. theIndian Face); also featured in the "bolt wars" of the 1980s and 1990s in the US.[3]
bolt ladder
Sequence ofbolts that are so close together, they can be used byaid climbers as a ladder.[2]
The technical difficultygrading system foraid climbing that is "clean" (i.e. nohammeredpitons orbolts), which goes: C0, C1, C2, C3, C4, and C5; also has anA-grade equivalent of the "original" aid grades for "new wave".[4]
An Australian term for a metal hex-headedmachine bolt that functions like abolt but with no fixedbolt hanger; climbers attach to the carrot bolt by using a version of arivet hanger or by attaching a removable bolt hanger plate.[24]
Type ofharness that also covers the upper body to help prevent a rotation in any fall; particularly used when the climber is carrying a heavy pack, or is climbing in an area with crevasses.
chest jam
Jamming the torso into a wide crack, especially to allow the climber to rest.
A broad movement that extended from the earlierfree climbing movement, which advocated minimizing any form of climbing that permanently impacted the natural rock surface, such as the use ofbolts orpitons insport climbing.
A small nut on a loop of wire with a head made of metal (often copper), soft enough to deform during placement, which is often with ahammer; commonly used inaid climbing as a point of placement, remaining fixed in-situ after placement.
Dead hangingWhen a climber hangs limp, such that their weight is held by armligament tension rather than by muscles.
deadman anchor
Alsosnow anchor andT-slot
An object which lies horizontally, buried in the snow, serving as ananchor for an attachedfixed rope.[33]
deadpoint
A controlleddynamic motion in which the hold is grabbed with one hand at the apex of upward motion of the body, while one or both feet and the other hand maintain contact with the rock.[34] Seedynos.
deck
The ground below a climbing route (i.e they fell to the ground and "hit the deck"). Seeground fall.[2]
A drug used to inhibit the onset ofaltitude sickness; otherwise known asacetazolamide.[35]
dihedral
DihedralAn open book-shapedcorner formed at the intersection of two flat rock faces; the opposite of anarête.[1][2]
direttissima
Italian for "shortest link", is the most direct route to the summit of a mountain up the fall line (e.g. theBrandler-Hasse Direttissima on theCima Grande,Dolomites); origin of the term is often attributed toEmilio Comici who said: "I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone".[36]
direct start
A new variation of an existing rock climbing route that avoids detours taken before the main line is reached due to their greater difficulty (e.g.Suprême Jumbo Love as a direct start toJumbo Love).
dirtbag
A climber who lives modestly and often itinerantly, to maximize the amount of time climbing. Practitioners includedJan and Herb Conn andFred Beckey (from the film:Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey).[37]
A type ofanchor used in soft rock instead ofbolts that uses a "baby angle" (piton)hammered into a drilled hole, which some think is better in soft rock than bolts that can crack the rock.[41][42]
drive-by
Adeadpoint where one arm crosses over the other to reach a hold that is above and to the side.
drop knee
Alsoegyptian.
Alsoknee drop.
Alsololotte.
An advancedrock-climbing technique where the knee is dropped downwards to twist the hips—and the centre of gravity—closer to the rock face, thus increasing the amount of upward reach and torque available to the climber; the unique stresses on the knee can lead to serious injuries.[1][11]
An elasticclimbing rope that softens falls to some extent and absorbs the energy of heavy loads. Comparestatic rope.[29]
dyno
In rock climbing, a dynamic jump or leap to grab an out-of-reach hold; failure to grab the hold will usually result in afall. See alsopaddling andcampusing.[1][2][43]
Part of the British adjectival grading system that is used to rank the level of risk (a separate grade is given for technical difficulty) oftraditional climbing routes, and which goes E1, E2, E3, ... to E11 (an additional metric is used for technical difficulty).[4]
A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 meters (26,247 ft)a.s.l, of which there are only 14 in the world.
eliminate
1. Abouldering move, or series of moves, where certain holds are placed "off bounds".[2]
2. A British climbing term for a route that does not take the most obvious or direct line, and instead 'eliminates' the use of other features to create its line (e.g. not allowing the climber to use a nearby crack in making their ascent).[2]
Using teams of support people (e.g. support climbers, sherpas, and/or equipment porters, etc.), and equipment (e.g.fixed rope, base camps, etc.) in helping the lead climbers reach the eventual summit; opposite ofalpine style.
An advancedclimbing technique in which the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm (which needs to be in a good handhold), and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach; more common inmixed climbing.[2]
figure-nine
Alsofigure of nine andfigure-nine move
A variation of thefigure-four move where the "same-side" leg is used instead of the "opposite" leg.[2]
Arock-climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight, often to prevent abarn-door.[2] There are three types of flagging:[12][11]
normal flag
Flagging foot stays on the same side (e.g. flagging right foot to the right side of the body).[12][11]
reverse inside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed in front of the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
reverse outside-flag
Flagging foot is crossed behind the foot that is on a foothold.[12][11]
flake
A thin slab of rock detached from the main face offering a hold, although it may become detached.[2]
flash
To ascend a route on the first attempt, but having obtainedbeta; with no beta, it is anon-sight.[1][2][45][3]
The Frenchgrade system forbouldering, which goes: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6A, 6B, 6C, 7A, 7B, 7C, .... , to 9A; with the AmericanV-grade system, is the most common worldwide boulder-grading system. Font grades are often confused withFrench grades.[6]
foot jam
Alsoheel-to-toe jam.
A technique ofjamming the foot into a large crack by twisting so that the heel and toes touch the sides.
flapper
The tearing of skin and flesh due to friction with sharp or rough surfaces.
The use of very basicaid climbing techniques (i.e.A0-graded aid techniques such as pulling on climbing protection) to bypass a short section that is not easily climbable, particularly used inbig wall climbing.[46]
The Frenchgrade system forsport climbing, which goes: 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a, 6b, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7c, .... , to 9c; with the AmericanYDS system, is the most common sport climbing grading system. French grades are often confused withfont grades.[6]
French start
Moving off for the second hold without being established on the start holds, thus using the floor as a foothold. In mostcompetition climbing, includingIFSC events, starting a climb in this manner invalidates the attempt.[47]
frenchies
An exercise used to develop lock-off strength consisting of pull-ups that stop with the elbows locked at angles between 20 and 160 degrees.
friable
Delicate and easily broken rock, or ice, often dangerously so.
Mountaineering clothing equipment that is worn over the boots and lower leg to give added protection and waterproofing.
Gaston
A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out, like a reverseside pull. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow. Named forGaston Rébuffat.[1][2][11]
gate flutter
The unwelcome action of the gate on acarabiner opening during a fall.
A sewn nylon webbing load-bearing device that is worn around the climber's waist and thighs, and to which the climbing rope, and other load-bearing climbing devices, can be attached.[2]
A round hold consisting of a pocket in the rock with a positive lip, varying in size from a single finger (a "mono") to body-sized. The term comes fromHueco Tanks that is notable for huecos, the Spanish term for a "hole".
An artificial pad that is worn on the lower thigh to protect a climber when performing aknee bar; initially controversial as they raised technical standards, but came to be accepted like climbing shoes.[56][57]
Lightweight rigid aluminum ladders are used inexpedition style mountaineering to cross crevasses or on difficult sections as a form ofaid climbing support (this can also be done with flexiblebachar ladders). See alsoaider.
A technique used to climboff-width cracks pioneered in the late 1970s by Randy Leavitt andTony Yaniro that uses alternating hand-fist stacks and leg-calf locks; helpful for resting, and when placingprotection.[58]
Restinglock offA climber holding a fixed position with one bent arm, usually while clipping or reaching for another hold with their other arm, or resting. Contrast withdead hang.[1]
In competition bouldering, a marked hold somewhere between the start and zone. It is either worth some number of points (less than the zone) or used as a tiebreaker.
Part of themixed climbing system forgrading the technical difficulty of mixed climbing routes, which goes: M1, M2, M3, M4, M5, M6, and up to M14.[4] See alsoD-grade.
mantel move
Mantel moveMoving onto a shelf of rock by pressing down on it with the palms until the climber can stand on the "mantel" (i.e. the same action as leaving from the side of a pool).[1][2][12][11]
A route that wasbolted by someone (e.g. they bought and installed the bolts) but who was unsuccessful inredpointing it, and it is now considered to be "open" to any climber to try; sometimes the original bolter will leave colored tape on the first bolt(s) to note the route is "not open".[60]
A multi-movedyno where the climber must move quickly through a sequence of intermediate hand holds (neither of which can hold the climber for any period), with their arms mimicking a paddling action and their feet usually in mid-air, before getting to a secure position. See alsocampusing.[43]
To systematically attain every peak of a designated class of summits (e.g.eight-thousanders), sometimes under prescribed conditions (e.g. in winter), and/or in a prescribed climbing style (e.g. nosupplementary oxygen).
Aquickdraw but made from a steel cable with steelcarabiners that is permanently fixed to thebolt; longer wearing than aluminum quickdraws, and climbers do not need to retrieve them after a climb.[1]
PortaledgeA lightweight foldaway tent platform used inbig wall climbing to create a rest point on a sheer rock face.
positive
Ahold or part of a hold with a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use. A positive hold is the opposite of asloper.
pressure breathing
AlsoWhittaker wheeze.
Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude.
problem
Alsobouldering problem orboulder problem.
Used inbouldering to describe the sequence of moves to be overcome.[2]
A mechanical climbing device that allows the rope to move through it in only one direction, examples being the Petzl Micro Traxion or the Camp Lift; PCDs are used in many climbing tasks including gear hauling,belaying,top rope solo climbing and insimul-climbing.[62][63] See alsoSelf-locking device.
project
Alsoprojecting.
An attempt over time to climb a new (worldwide or personal)route or boulderproblem as a "project".
2. A type of heavy-duty "all-weather"descender known as an "abseil rack" or a "rappel rack", consisting of metal bars on a U-shaped chassis, which is frequently used incaving. An alternative heavier device is a "whaletail" (also "whale tail") which is a machined block often used by rescuers.[64]
Secondary or intermediate fixedanchor point(s) along the length of afixed rope (i.e. in addition to the mainanchor at the top of the fixed rope) that is used to avoid edges that could increase rope wear.[65]
An energy-saving mountaineering technique where the unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, by "locking" the knee of the rear leg.
retro-bolting
The addition ofbolts to a route that has already been ascended usingtraditional climbingprotection. The technique is controversial, with ethical debate on the issues of improving climber safety versus protecting the integrity of the original traditional climbing challenge.[66][67]
A light metal plate with several holes that can be used as a multi-anchor device that several items can be attached to at abelay station, notable versions include the Petzl PAW.
ripped
Term to denote when a piece ofprotection failed and "ripped-out" of the rock. Seezipper fall.[2]
A move in which the crossing arm goes behind the other arm and is so far extended that the body is forced to twist until it ends up facing away from the rock. It was introduced byAntoine Le Menestrel [fr] to climb a route inBuoux calledLa rose et le vampire8b (5.13d) in 1985.[69]
RURPA miniature, postage stamp-sized chrome-moly squarepiton, tied to a wire or rope andhammered into cracks; created byYvon Chouinard in 1960 for extremeaid climbing routes inYosemite; acronym forrealized ultimate reality piton.[70]
A rock climb with a much lower official climbinggrade than probably deserved; sometimes due to a "trick-move" at thecrux that once learned, does make the route easier; or due to overly conservative grading.[2]
A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing; involves climbing the easiestgrades.
screamer
1. Shock absorbing sling designed to reduce peak loads in a climbing system. Very commonly used for winter / ice climbing. Made of a nylonwebbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length.
The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixedanchor points. Seefixed rope.
sit start
Alsosit down start orSDS
Asit startBouldering term for a route that must be started from a seated position on the ground with hands and feet on prescribed holds; acronyms areSS (sit-start),SDS (sit-down-start), orassis (french); concept invented by John Yablonski.[73]
A technique inmixed climbing anddry-tooling where the ice axe is inverted and the blade wedged into a crack above the climber's head, who then pulls down on the handle of the axe to gain upward momentum. See alsoundercling pull.[75]
Term to describe pieces ofwebbing orcord left on a climb (e.g. "I found some old tat") often as part of an irretrievableanchor point that was part of anabseil station.[77]
Talus rocksAn area of large rock fragments on a mountainside where the rocks are stable and not loose likescree.
talon hook
A type of three-pronged climbing hook used for securing the climber to a horizontal edge in the rock face. Each prong contains a curved hook of differing widths for securing onto respective edge sizes when aid climbing.
Abig wall climbing technique where thelead climber carries an additional static rope (in addition to their dynamic climbing rope) that hangs (or "trails") behind them as they ascend; the trail rope enables the belayer to pass equipment to the leader during the ascent, and for the leader to haul up equipment as the belayer ascends.[22][61]
A climbing move where the hips "twist" perpendicular to the wall, the inside arm is "locked" on an upper hold, the outside arm holds the body against the wall, and the feet press down to propel the body higher.
TheUIAA grade system for rock climbing, which goes: ... VI, VII, VIII, IX, X, XI, .... , to XII; is less common than theFrench grade system or the AmericanYDS grade system, but still used in Germany and parts of Eastern Europe.[6]
A downwardhold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.[1][2][11]
undercling pull
After astein pull is completed, the undercling pull is amixed climbing technique for continuing to use the hold to gain upward momentum by using the hold to pull into the rock; requires a lot more energy than a stein pull.[75]
Agrading system forboulderingproblems invented byJohn Sherman, which goes: V0, V1, V2, V3, V4, V5, V6, V7, ... , to V17. The V-scale and the Frenchfont scale are the most common boulder grading systems in use worldwide.[1][6]
A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes, which is hard to climb on as there is insufficient depth forcrampons to have penetration. See alsoclear ice andglaze ice.
Part of theice climbing system forgrading the technical difficulty of ice climbing routes, which goes: WI1, WI2, WI3, WI4, WI5, WI6, and up to WI13.[4] See alsoM-grade.
RoundwebbingA hollow and flat nylon strip mainly used to makeslings.
webolette
A piece ofwebbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of acordelette.
weighting
Any time a rope sustains the weight of the climber, e.g. "weighting the rope". This can happen during a minor fall, awhipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on thebelay rope. See alsohangdogging.
Afree climbing term pre-redpointing, where a fallinglead climber returns to the ground to restart, but leaves their rope clipped into theprotection — in redpointing, the rope is pulled free from all protection before re-starting the climb.[2]
American system forgrading walks, hikes, and climbs; the rock climbing (5.x) goes: 5.7, 5.8, 5.9, 5.10a, 5.10b, 5.10c, 5.10d, 5.11a, .... , 5.14a, 5.14b, 5.14c, 5.14d, 5.15a, etc., and with theFrench grade system, is the most widely used grading system worldwide forsport climbing.[6]
^IFSC 2021 Rules Commission."2021 Rules"(PDF). Archived from the original on May 8, 2021. Retrieved2021-12-04.{{cite web}}: CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link)
^Soanes, Catherine and Stevenson, Angus (ed.) (2005).Oxford Dictionary of English, 2nd Ed., revised, Oxford University Press, Oxford, New York, p. 1775.ISBN978-0-19-861057-1.
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