Reggio is located on the "toe" of theItalian Peninsula and is separated from the island ofSicily by theStrait of Messina. It is situated on the slopes of theAspromonte, a long, craggy mountain range that runs up through the centre of the region.
As a major functional pole in the region, it has strong historical, cultural and economic ties with the city ofMessina, which lies across the strait inSicily, forming a metro city of less than 1 million people.[9]
Reggio is the oldest city in the region, and during ancient times, it was an important and flourishing colony ofMagna Graecia. Reggio has a modern urban system, set up after the catastrophicearthquake of 1908, which destroyed most of the city. Before that seismic event, the region had been subject to several other previous earthquakes.[10] The seismicity is caused by Reggio being on theEurasian Plate near thefaultline where it meets theAfrican Plate that runs through the strait, dividing the two European regions of Calabria andSicily into two different tectonic regions.[11][12]
It is a major economic centre for regional services and transport on the southern shores of the Mediterranean. Reggio, withNaples andTaranto, is home to one of the most important archaeological museums, theNational Archaeological Museum of Magna Græcia, dedicated toAncient Greece (which houses theBronzes of Riace, rare example ofGreek bronze sculpture, which became one of the symbols of the city). Reggio is the seat, since 1907, of the Archeological Superintendence of Bruttium and Lucania. The city is home tofootball clubReggina, that previously played in theItalian top flight.
The city centre, consisting primarily ofLiberty buildings, has a linear development along the coast with parallel streets, and the promenade is dotted with raremagnolias and exoticpalms. Reggio has commonly used popular nicknames: The "City of Bronzes", after the Bronzes of Riace that are testimonials of its Greek origins; the "City ofbergamot", which is exclusively cultivated in the region; and the "City ofFatamorgana", an optical phenomenon visible in Italy only from the Reggio seaside.[citation needed]
Regium orRhegium, its first Latin name, during the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC.
Rhegium Julii (Reggio Giulia), during the Roman Imperial period.
Riyyu, Arabic name under the short domination byEmirate of Sicily, between 10th and 11th centuries.
Rìsa, under theNormans, between the 11th and 12th centuries.
Regols, Catalan name under theCrown of Aragon, in the late 13th century.
Reggio orRegio, usual Italian name in the Middle and Modern age.
Reggio di Calàbria, postItalian Unification (to be distinguished fromReggio di Lombardia ordi Modena – located in northern Italy – which was renamedReggio nell'Emilia).
The toponym of the city might derive from an Italic wordrec (meaning 'king', cognate withLatinrex). Ancient Greek and Roman etymologists derived it from the Greekregnynai (ῥηγνυναι, 'break'), referring to a mythic earthquake in which Sicily was broken off from the Italian mainland.[13]
The history of the area before the arrival of the Greeks in the eighth century BC is not reliably known. Mythical accounts record a series of different peoples in the region, including theOsci (sometimes referred to asOpici),Trojans,Oenotrians,Ligures,Ausones,Mamertines, Taureani,Sicels,Morgetes andItali.[14] They also claim that the land around Reggio was first known as Saturnia, or Neptunia. The term 'Italia' initially referred to the area around Reggio itself, before expanding to cover present-day southern Calabria (later known asBruttium), and finally becoming the name of the whole Italian peninsula around the third century BC.[14] Allegedly, the name derives from kingItalus, an Oenotrian king of the region.[15]
AfterCumae, Reggio was one of the first Greek colonies in southern Italy. The colony was settled by the inhabitants ofChalcis in 730 or 743 BC[14] on the site of the older settlement, Erythra (Ερυθρά), meaning 'red'. The legendary founder of the city was King Iocastus, son ofAeolus, who was later said to be buried on the Punta Calamizzi promontory (called "Pallantion") and appeared on the city's coinage. The colony retained the name of "Rhegion" (Ῥήγιον).[14]Pseudo-Scylax also writes that it was a Greek city.[16]
Rhegion was one of the most important cities inMagna Graecia, reaching great economic and political power during the 5th and 6th centuries BC underAnaxilas, who reigned as tyrant from 494 to 476 BC. Anaxilas conqueredZancle (modernMessina), extending Rhegian control over both shores of the Straits of Messina. He attempted to conquerLocri as well in 477 BC but was rebuffed. When he died in 476 BC, his two sons were too young to rule, so power was held by their regentMicythus. Under his rule, Rhegion founded a colony, Pyxous (modernPolicastro Bussentino) inCampania in 471 BC.[17]Hieron I of Syracuse orchestrated Micythus' removal from power in 467 BC,[18] after which Anaxilas' sons ruled on their own until they were deposed in 461 BC.[19] During thePeloponnesian War, Rhegion allied withAthens. An Athenian inscription (IG I3 53) reports a renewal of this alliance in 433 BC.[20] The Athenians supported Rhegion in a war with Locri during the First Sicilian Expedition (427–425 BC).[21] However, when the Athenians launched the much largerSicilian Expedition of 415–413 BC, Rhegion offered them only limited assistance.
During theThird Sicilian War, Rhegion became hostile toDionysius I of Syracuse. He attacked the city for the first time in 396 BC, but he was rebuffed. Dionysius destroyed the Rhegian navy in 389 BC, besieged the city again in 388 BC and, when it finally fell in 387 BC, destroyed it.[22] His son,Dionysius II refounded the city as 'Phoebeia' in the 360s BC. When he was expelled from Syracuse in 356 BC, he retained control of Phoebeia, but it was captured by Syracusan forces led byLeptines andCallippus in 351 BC.[23] Rhegion then reverted to its original name.[14]
Throughout classical antiquity Rhegion remained an important maritime and commercial city as well as a cultural centre, as is demonstrated by the presence of academies of art, philosophy, and science, such as thePythagorean School, and also by its well-known poetIbycus, the historianIppys, the musicologist Glaucus, and the sculptorsPythagoras andClearchus.[13]
Rhegion made an alliance with theRoman Republic in 282 BC, shortly before thePyrrhic War. TheLegio Campana [de], under the command of Decius Vibellus, was installed as a garrison but subsequently launched a violent coup and seized control of the city.[24] Roman forces deposed Decius and restored the city's independence in 271 BC. Thereafter, Rhegium was an important ally of Rome, with the status ofmunicipium andsocia navalis (naval ally). It retained its Greek customs and language, as well as itsmint.[13] It was a central pivot for both maritime and mainland traffic, reached by the final part of theVia Popilia, which was built in the 2nd century BC and joined the olderVia Appia atCapua, south of Rome. Close to Rhegion, on the Straits of Messina, was the busy port of Columna Rhegina. Under the EmperorAugustus, the city was renamed Rhegium Juli in honour of the emperor's adoptive fatherJulius Caesar and was the seat of thecorrēctor (governor) of "Regio IIILucania et Bruttii" (the southernmost of the elevenregiones into which Italy was divided). In AD 61 the apostleSt. Paul passed through Rhegium on his final voyage towards Rome,[25] converting the first local Christians and, according to tradition, laying the foundations of the Christianization of Bruttium.
Rhegium boasted in imperial times nine thermal baths,[26] one of which is still visible today on the sea-front. Due to its seismic activity, the area was often damaged by earthquakes, such as in 91 BC, AD 17, 305 and 374.[27]
Numerous occupying armies came to Reggio during the early Middle Ages due to the city's strategic importance.
Invasions by theVandals, theLombards and theGoths occurred in the 5th–6th centuries.[citation needed] Then, underByzantine rule, it became a metropolis of the Byzantine possessions in Italy and was also the capital of theDuchy of Calabria several times between 536 and 1060 AD.[citation needed] Following wars between the Lombards and Byzantines in the 6th century, Bruttium was renamed Calabria.[citation needed]
As a Byzantine centre of culture, certain monks there undertook scribal work, carrying out the transcription of ancient classical works. Until the 15th century, Reggio was one of the most important Greek-rite Bishoprics in Italy—even today Greek words are used and are recognisable in local speech and Byzantine terms can be found in local liturgy, in religious icons and even in local recipes. During this period, constant migrations of Greeks fleeing the Slavic invasion of Peloponnese, further strengthened the Hellenic element of the city.[28]
The Arabs occupied Reggio in 918 and held some of its inhabitants to ransom or kept them prisoners as slaves.[29] For brief periods in the 10th–11th centuries the city was ruled by theArabs and, renamedRivàh (or sometimesRŷu), became part of theEmirate of Sicily. During the period of Arab rule various beneficial ideas were introduced into Calabria, such as citrus fruit trees, mulberry trees (used insilk production) and several ways of cooking local vegetables such as aubergines. The Arabs introduced water ices and ice cream and also greatly improved agricultural and hydraulic techniques for irrigation.[13]
In 1005, a Christian fleet coming fromPisa sacked the city and massacred all the Saracens to the great jubilation of the local population.[30]
In 1060, theNormans seized it permanently from theEastern Roman Empire, gradually bringing it into the Latin cultural sphere underPapal influence, which sought to extend its power over the entire peninsula.[31]
In 1122, hostilities arose betweenRoger II,Count of Sicily, and his cousinWilliam II, the new Duke of Calabria, culminating in a conflict that was resolved only through the intervention ofPope Callixtus II. In 1121, the Pope succeeded in reconciling the two rivals by securing an agreement whereby the Count of Sicily would provide his cousin with a cavalry squadron to suppress the revolt led by Giordano, Count ofAriano. In exchange, William renounced his possessions in Sicily and Calabria. Roger II, alreadyPrince of Salerno, then travelled to Reggio, where he was recognized as Duke of Calabria and Apulia, Count of Sicily, and sovereign overAmalfi andGaeta, parts of Naples, as well asTaranto,Capua, and theAbruzzi. When Roger II was crowned King of Sicily in 1131, he transferred his seat from Reggio to Palermo, although Reggio remained the capital of the Justiciarate of Calabria.[32][33] In 1234 the town fair was established by decree of KingFrederick II.[34] Following Norman rule, the city experienced the alternating dominion of theAngevin and theAragonese, yet it consistently remained the capital and principal center of the Calabrian territories.[35]
From 1266 it was ruled by theAngevins, under whom life in Calabria deteriorated because of their tendency to accumulate wealth in their capital, Naples, leaving Calabria in the power of local barons.[34] In 1282, during theSicilian Vespers, Reggio rallied in support ofMessina and the other oriental Sicily cities because of the shared history, commercial and cultural interests. From 1147 to 1443 and again from 1465 to 1582, Reggio was the capital of the CalabrianGiustizierato. It supported theAragonese forces against the House of Anjou. In the 14th century it obtained new administrative powers.[34] In 1459, the Aragonese enlarged its medieval castle.[citation needed]
Reggio, throughout the Middle Ages, was first an important centre ofcalligraphy and then ofprinting after its invention. It boasts the first dated, printed edition of aHebrew text, aRashi commentary on thePentateuch, printed in 1475 inLa Giudecca of Reggio,[36] even though scholars consider Rome as the city where Hebrew printing began.[citation needed] The Jewish community of Reggio was also considered to be among the foremost internationally, for the dyeing and the trading ofsilk: silk woven in Reggio was esteemed and bought by the Spaniards, the Genoese, the Dutch, the English and the Venetians, as it was recognised as the best silk in the Kingdom of Naples.[13]
From the early 16th century, the Kingdom of Naples was under theHabsburgs ofSpain, who put Reggio under a viceroy from 1504 to 1713. The 16th and 17th centuries were an age of decay due to high Spanish taxes, pestilence, the 1562 earthquake, and theOttoman Turkish invasions suffered by Reggio between 1534 and 1594. In 1534, facing attack by an Ottoman fleet underHayreddin Barbarossa, the townspeople abandoned Reggio. Barbarossa captured eight hundred of those who remained and then burned the town.[37] AfterBarbary pirates attacked Reggio in 1558, they took most of its inhabitants as slaves toTripoli.[38]
In 1714, southern Italy became once more property of the Austrian Habsburgs, who remained until 1734, when they were replaced by theBourbons of Spain.[citation needed] Reggio was the capital of Calabria Ulteriore Prima from 1759 to 1860. In 1783, a disastrousearthquake damaged Reggio, all of southern Calabria andMessina.
The precious citrus fruit,Bergamot orange, had been cultivated and used in the Reggio area since the 15th century. By 1750 it was being grown intensively in the Rada Giunchi area of Reggio and was the first plantation of its kind in the world.[13]
Reggio Calabria in 1853
In 1806,Napoleon Bonaparte took Reggio and made the city aDuchy and General Headquarters. After the former's fall, in 1816, the two ancient Kingdoms of Naples and of Sicily were unified, becoming theKingdom of the Two Sicilies.
During the course of the 19th century new public gardens were laid out, the piazzas (or squares) were embellished and cafés and a theatre were opened. On the newly opened sea promenade a Civic Museum was inaugurated. In fact, some 60 years after the devastation caused by the 1783 earthquake, the English traveller and painterEdward Lear remarked "Reggio is indeed one vast garden, and doubtless one of the loveliest spots to be seen on earth. A half-ruined castle, beautiful in colour and picturesque in form, overlooks all the long city, the wide straits, and snow-topped Mongibello beyond."[39]
On 21 August 1860, during theBattaglia di Piazza Duomo [it;fr;ru] (Cathedral Square Battle),Giuseppe Garibaldi conquered theKingdom of the Two Sicilies. Bruno Antonio Rossi (the mayor of Reggio after the historian Domenico Spanò Bolani, who helped the citizenship during the previous turbulent years) was the first in the kingdom to proclaim the new Garibaldi Dictatorship and the end of the rule ofFrancis II.[40]
On 28 December 1908, at 5:21 am, the town was hit by a heavy earthquake and shook violently for 31 seconds. Damage was even worse in Messina across the Straits. It is estimated that 25,000 people perished in Reggio and 65,000 in Messina. Reggio lost 27% of its inhabitants and Messina lost 42%. Ten minutes after the catastrophic earthquake, those who tried to escape by running towards the open spaces of the coast were engulfed by a 10-metre-hightsunami. Three waves of 6–12 metres swept away the whole waterfront. The1908 Messina earthquake remains one of the worst on record in modern western European history.[41][42]
During the World War II, due to its strategic military position, it suffered a devastating air raid and was used as theinvasion target by theBritish Eighth Army in 1943, which led to the city's capture. After the war Reggio recovered considerably. During 1970–71 the city was the scene of a popular uprising—known as theMoti di Reggio—against the government choice ofCatanzaro as capital of the newly instituted Region of Calabria.[43] The revolt was taken over by youngneofascists of theItalian Social Movement, backed by the'Ndrangheta, aMafia-type criminal organisation based in Calabria.[44][45] The Reggio Calabria protests were the expression of malcontent aboutcronyism and the lack of industrial planning. In the 1970s and 1980s, Reggio went through twenty years of increasing organized crime by the 'Ndrangheta as well as urban decay. The town is home to several'ndrine, such as theCondello-Imerti and theDe Stefano-Tegano clans, who were involved in bloody wars against each other during this period.[46] The 'Ndrangheta extorts protection money (pizzo) from every shop and viable business in town and has more power than the city council in awarding licences to retailers.[45]
The spiral of corruption reached its zenith in the early 1990s. The sitting mayor at the time,Agatino Licandro [it], made a confession reporting "suitcases coming into city hall stuffed with money but going out empty". As a result of the nationwide corruption scandals most of the city council was arrested.[45] Since the early 1990s, the so-called "Primavera di Reggio" (Reggio Spring)—a spontaneous movement of people and government institutions—encouraged city recovery and a renewed and stronger identity. The symbol of the Reggio Spring is the Lungomare Falcomatà, the sea-side boulevard named after Italo Falcomatà, the centre-left mayor who initiated the recovery of the town.[47]
On 9 October 2012, the Italian government decided to dissolve the city council of Reggio Calabria for infiltration by the 'Ndrangheta. The move came after some councillors were suspected of having ties to the powerful crime syndicate, under the 10-year centre-right rule of Giuseppe Scopelliti, mayor from 2002 to 2010.[48] His successor, the centre-right mayor Demetrio Arena and all 30 city councillors, were sacked to prevent any "mafia contagion" in the local government. It was the first time that the entire government of a provincial capital had been dismissed over suspected links to organized crime. Three commissioners ran the city for 18 months until a newelection.[49][50] According to anti-mafia investigators in 2016, Scopelliti was elected thanks to votes from the 'Ndrangheta.[51]
Reggio has been destroyed by earthquakes several times over the centuries, such as in 91 BC, after which the city was reconstructed by order of the Emperor Augustus, followed by another in the year 17 AD; yet another one in 305 AD, and again another in 374. In 1562 one destroyed the natural, medieval port of the city and brought about the submersion of the Calamizzi promontory, known in ancient times as the Pallantiòn, where, we are told, the first Greek settlers, the Calcidesi, had set foot. The particularly devastating of 1783 and that of 1908, which was the worst natural calamity to take place in Europe in human memory, both profoundly altered the urban aspect of the city, due to the successive re-building which gave the present-day layout of straight, intersecting roads, planned by Giovanbattista Mori in 1784 and byPietro de Nava [it] in 1911. But some town-planning policies at the time were decided upon with no respect for the architectural history of Reggio, as is shown by the demolition of the remaining Norman part of the Castle, following the last big earthquake in 1923.[52]
With an exceptionally high population density, Reggio Calabria was cited as having the leastgreen space in a study of 386 European cities. The study reported that green space coverage varied markedly, averaging 18.6 per cent and "ranging from 1.9 (Reggio di Calabria, Italy) to 46 (Ferrol, Spain) per cent." The study further reported "Per capita green space provision varied by two orders of magnitude, from 3 to 4 m2 per person in Cádiz, Fuenlabrada and Almería (Spain) and Reggio di Calabria (Italy) to more than 300 m2 inLiège (Belgium),Oulu (Finland) andValenciennes (France)."[54] Even so, outside of the urban area, the nearby elevated areas have plenty of green space and extensive forests. This includes theAspromonte National Park.
According to theKöppen climate classification, Reggio Calabria possesses a typicalMediterranean climate (Köppen:Csa). Its climate has warmer days and cooler nights thanMessina which lies on the other side of the strait. Precipitation is another big difference since Messina receives approximately 300 mm (12 in) more.
The municipality of Reggio is divided into 15 sub-municipalities (circoscrizioni) containing thefrazioni ('subdivisions', mainly villages and hamlets) ofCatona, Gallico, Archi, Pentimele, Gallina, Mosorrofa (Greek:Messorofè), Ortì (Greek:Orthioi),Pellaro (Greek:Pèllaros) and Saracinello. They are: Centro Storico (1st); Pineta Zerbi, Tremulini and Eremo (2nd); Santa Caterina, San Brunello and Vito (3rd); Trabochetto, Condera and Spirito Santo (4th); Rione Ferrovieri, Stadio and Gebbione (5th); Sbarre (6th); San Giorgio, Modena, Scido and San Sperato (7th); Catona, Salice, Rosalì and Villa San Giuseppe (8th); Gallico and Sambatello (9th); Archi (10th); Ortì, Podàrgoni and Terreti (11th); Cannavò, Mosorrofa and Cataforio (12th); Ravagnese, San Gregorio, Croce Valanidi and Trunca (13th); Gallina (14th); Pellaro and Bocale (15th).
View on the Strait of Messina by the beach of Reggio Calabria
Reggio retains a somewhat rural ambience despite its sizable population. Industry in the city revolves primarily around agriculture and export, fruits, tobacco,briar and the precious essence of thebergamot which is used in perfume production. Reggio is a port city with a sizeable fishing industry.
The beaches of the city have become a populartourist destination.[59] Tourism is distributed between the Ionian coast (Costa Jonica), the Tyrrhenian coast (the Costa Viola, Purple Coast) and theAspromonte mountain behind the city, containing the natural reserve of theAspromonte National Park where, at 1,300–1,950 metres above sea level, there is a panoramic view of theStrait of Messina from the snowyMount Etna to theAeolian Islands.
The Castle, originally built before 540 AD and enlarged by theNormans and later by theAragonese in 1459,[60] partially torn in the late 19th century and in 1923, is now[when?] home to art exhibitions.
The Church of SaintGaetano Catanoso, in the Spirito Santo neighborhood. It houses the namesake saint's glass tomb, in the sanctuary as well as museum exhibits.
The Church of the Optimates constructed inByzantine-Norman style, containing medieval artistic items of interest.
TheMuseo Nazionale della Magna Grecia (National Archaeological Museum of Magna Grecia), dedicated toAncient Greece, heir of the previous City Museum (created in 1819); its building was built in 1932 with project ofMarcello Piacentini under the auspices of Archæological Superintendent Edoardo Galli.
The Lungomare Falcomatà, a seaside promenade located in the downtown, is a swimming destination and main symbol of the summermovida; it was defined by Nando Martellini, quoting the poetGabriele D'Annunzio, as "the most beautiful kilometre of Italy".[61]
The botanic gardens facing the sea.
The walls of the ancient city, one of the few remaining examples of the original Greek walls, are divided into four separate sections. The one at the Falcomatà Seaside dates to the 5th–4th century BC and is attributed to the city's reconstruction byDionysius II of Syracuse.
The remains ofRoman baths, along the sea promenade.
The archaeological excavations of Piazza Italia, which was the central square of Reggio since Greater Greece age until today.
The archaeological site of Griso Laboccetta, an ancient Greek and Roman sacred area.
The archaeological excavations nearby Church San Giorgio al Corso.
Other sites of archæological interest in the upper-eastern part of the city, such as a Greek mansion, a necropolis, or some ancient Greek walls and Byzantine items of interest nearby Reggio Campi street.
The new waterfront, designed by architectZaha Hadid, is located on a narrow strait separating Italy fromSicily. The museum (13,400 m2) draws inspiration from the organic form of the starfish, utilizing a radial symmetry to coordinate communication and circulation between different program elements: exhibition spaces, restoration facilities, archive, aquarium and library. A second, multifunctional building (8,000 m2), comprises two separate elements, placed around a partially covered piazza. It houses offices, gyms, craft laboratories, cinema and flexible auditoria.[62]
Arena dello Stretto, hosts musical and theatrical events.
Teatro Comunale "Francesco Cilea": Municipal Theatre, firstly inaugurated in 1818 asReal Teatro Borbonio, it was rebuilt in a different place after the1908 earthquake.
Politeama "Siracusa": multi-purpose theatre inaugurated in 1922 inside a Liberty style building.
Biblioteca Comunale "Pietro De Nava": the Municipal Library was inaugurated in 1818 asRegia Biblioteca Ferdinandiana and set in its present-day building in 1928, after the last earthquake.[citation needed]
Università per Stranieri "Dante Alighieri": it is one of the three Italian Universities for Foreigners; created in 1984 it includes several Linguistic and Philology courses.
Accademia di Belle Arti: the Academy of Fine Arts, established in 1967 is the most long-standing of its kind in Calabria and the third one in Southern Italy.
Conservatorio Musicale "Francesco Cilea": founded in 1927, the most ancient Conservatory of Music in Calabria, was then dedicated to the musician fromPalmi.
State High School "Thomas Gulli", (Liceo statale Tommaso Gulli) established in 1911 asGirls Private School.
The Tramway of Reggio was operative since 1918 until 1937.[citation needed] Tramway line was 5.3 km long, from Sbarre district (southern suburbs) until Annunziata bridge (northern part of town centre) passing by the whole historical centre.
Reggio Calabria, served by air from theReggio Calabria Airport (IATA:REG,ICAO:LICR) also known asAeroporto dello Stretto orTito Minniti Airport, is located a few kilometres south of Reggio. The airport has been at the center of polemics about its financial loss, risking to be closed.[65] It is currently connected to the airports ofRome Fiumicino andMilan Linate.
^abcdefAlessandro Gioffrè d'Ambra and othersReggio Centro del Mediterraneo - un excursus storico di 3500 anni, Club UNESCO 'Re Italo', Provincia di Reggio, Tipografia Enotria, Reggio di Calabria, May 2014
^abcdeDomenico Spanò Bolani,Storia di Reggio – da' tempi primitivi sino all'anno 1797 • Stamperia e Cartiere del Fibreno, Naples, 1857[1]
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^AA VV (attualmente a cura di: Carmelina Sicari, Gaetanina Sicari Ruffo, Luciana Polimeni, Sara Polimeni, Cettina Nostro, Antonio Maria Leone; fondata da Giuseppe Polimeni)Calabria Sconosciuta · case editrici varie, redazione in Reggio di Calabria, 1978~2013