| Rechao | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Traditional Chinese | 熱炒 | ||||||||||
| Simplified Chinese | 热炒 | ||||||||||
| Literal meaning | Hot stir-fry | ||||||||||
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| Kuaichao | |||||||||||
| Chinese | 快炒 | ||||||||||
| Literal meaning | Fast stir-fry | ||||||||||
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Rechao (traditional Chinese:熱炒;simplified Chinese:热炒) is a style ofTaiwanese cuisine that uses awok tostir fry food.Rechao combines theChinese characters for "hot" (Chinese:熱) and "stir-fry" (Chinese:炒) and is theMandarin pronunciation for those characters. It is also known askuaichao (Chinese:快炒), which literally means "fast stir-fry".Rechao eateries have been compared to Cantonese-styledim sum eateries, the Japanese barizakaya, Britishpubs, Hong Kong'sdai pai dong, andnight markets in Taiwan.
Rechao restaurants built a significant foothold inTaipei in the 1970s. Originally offeringseafood from the nearby port city ofKeelung, they later expanded their menu options. During theTaiwan Economic Miracle in the 1980s, the strong economy kept people focused on their jobs and working into the evening. As they finished their work for the day, these workers sought inexpensive and fast food choices. Seafood restaurant owners capitalized on this by converting their businesses into affordablerechao eateries. The modern version of therechao restaurant emerged in the 1980s once heavy-duty burners operated by gas became available. The struggling economy in the 2000s induced people to avoidfine dining restaurants in favor of cheap options likerechao restaurants, causing a surge in their popularity. Despite their widespread appeal in Taiwan,rechao restaurants remain relatively unknown internationally.
Rechao eateries have simple decor, typically featuring plasticstools and short tables for seating. People of various social backgrounds dine at the venues, which provide a casual atmosphere for them to unwind and connect. Meals can last for several hours, as copious amounts of beer—frequently from theTaiwan Beer brand—is drunk.Rechao menu items are influenced by numerous cultures includingFujianese,Japanese,Korean,Sichuanese,Southeast Asian, andTaiwanese. Dishes contain large helpings of oil and salt which complement beer.
The phraserechao (Chinese:熱炒) combines theChinese characters for "hot" (Chinese:熱) and "stir-fry" (Chinese:炒) and is theMandarin pronunciation for those characters.[1][2] It is employed as a verb and a noun.[1] The name comes from how the food is cooked at a high temperature to exterminatebacteria.[3]Rechao is also known askuaichao (Chinese:快炒), which literally means "fast stir-fry". It alludes to how the restaurants attempt to cook and present the dish to customers as swiftly as possible.[4]
During the 1970s,rechao eateries established a strong presence inTaipei. Its initial dishes were made ofseafood transported fromKeelung, a port city situated 30 km (19 mi) from Taipei.[3] Theseafood restaurants hadfish tanks containing recently procured fish that chefs used to prepare dishes.Rechao restaurants were born as the seafood restaurants began to gradually broaden their menu options.[5] In the midst of theTaiwan Economic Miracle in the 1980s, Taiwan had undergone significant urbanization.[6] As the booming economy kept people busy with work, morestreet vendors began serving stir-fry dishes.[7]White-collar workers who worked into the evening started seeking inexpensive, fast, and adaptable food options.[6] They frequently chose to dine out for all three of their daily meals and sought budget-friendly spots where they could socialize at the end of the workday. Viewing this as a business opportunity, seafood restaurant owners converted their establishments into inexpensiverechao eateries.[7] The restaurants hadair conditioning and decor and allowed customers to sit inside or outside.[4] After heavy-duty burners operated by gas became available in Taiwan in the 1980s, the contemporary version ofrechao emerged.[1]Rechao restaurants surged in popularity during the 1990s as employees who had finished their workday sought to relax.[5]
At the start of 1990, theTaiwan Stock Exchange hit a record high. By 2000, the market had dropped substantially owing to international conflicts and the bursting of thedot-com bubble. The poor economic conditions caused people to avoid costlyfine dining places which closed down as inexpensive dining options emerged.[8] Taiwan's streets—particularly along Chang'an East Road in Taipei'sZhongshan District—started displaying signs like "NT$100 Live Seafood" (Chinese:一百活海鮮), "$99 Rechao" (Chinese:九十九快炒), and "$100 Rechao" (Chinese:百元熱炒).[9] Restaurant owners in Taipei benefited from their proximity to the nearby Keelung Fish Market—Taiwan's largestfish market—that was fewer than 30 minutes away by car. As they advertised "$100 Live Seafood", they drove in the middle of the night to the fish markets to procure fresh seafood. This allowed the businesses to minimize both procurement and delivery expenses.[10] Another reason for the popularity ofrechao restaurants was that urban dwellers considered them to be a haven where they could vent their frustrations after facing constant stress from higher-ups at work.[11] Therechao restaurants offered unlimited freewhite rice and clear pricing, making customers feel at ease when placing their order. Streets often had multiplerechao restaurants next to each other, which established a vibrant ambiance.[4]
The food writerClarissa Wei stated that she spent 1.5 years delving into Taiwanese culinary traditions for her cookbook and found that typically infrequent attention is paid torechao beyond a cursory reference. That is because Taiwan is commonly categorized as havingnight market food andbeef noodle soup, she said. Outside of Taiwan,rechao restaurants have not gained traction. The most recent migration of people from Taiwan happened during the 1980s. This was prior to the rise ofrechao, which is whyOverseas Taiwanese largely are unfamiliar with it. Wei, the writer, said that the fact thatrechao is not widely known makes sense also becauseTaiwanese cuisine seldom receives attention. When it is referenced,rechao typically is grouped broadly withChinese cuisine.[5] Therechao dining experience has expanded outside of Taiwan. Therechao restaurant 886 began operations in 2018 in New York City'sLower Manhattan.[3]
Rechao restaurants operate separately fromTaiwan's night markets, which do not feature them.[5] TheRough Guides calledrechao restaurants "a real Taipei institution".[12]Tainan has largerechao eateries that may occupy the sidewalks.[13] Northern Taiwan has a high concentration ofrechao restaurants, though they are widespread across nearly all of the island's significant locales.[5]Chris Horton ofThe Nikkei calledrechao eateries "among the best places" for trying outTaiwanese cuisine. He said they represent a more modest yet truly representative Taiwanese meal compared toMichelin-rated dining establishments.[3]Taipei Medical University professor of food history Kuo Chung-Hao said, "Rechao food is the food of the people."[5] Food writer Clarissa Wei calledrechao restaurants "hot, fast, and noisy. Glorious".[5] Ami Barnes ofTravel in Taiwan foundrechao eateries to play a crucial function in the culinary scene of Taiwan and are "unpretentious [and] sociable".[14]
Chris Horton ofThe Nikkei comparedrechao restaurants to Cantonese-styledim sum eateries andizakaya, a Japanese bar.[3] Writing forThe World of Chinese,Terence Hsieh [zh-yue] comparedrechao restaurants tonight markets in Taiwan. He said that whereas night markets embody Taiwanese culture's trendy side,rechao restaurants are their grittier, more rough-edged urban counterparts.[6] According to the food writerClarissa Wei,rechao eateries were like thepub in Great Britain and theizakaya in Japan in being a social spot for gathering and having drinks.[5] She said that the restaurants deserve "the same unilateral, unitalicized recognition" thatizakayas and thedai pai dong in Hong Kong receive. According to Wei,rechao restaurants give diners a night market's sensory pleasures while not having to maneuver past a sea of people.[1] She frequentedrechao eateries with her friends to unwind to avoid the discomfort of traversing a night market filled with tourists during warm temperatures.[15] TheStraits Times food critic Foong Woei Wan said Taiwaneserechao eateries reside in an "alternative universe" from comparable Singaporean establishments.[16]
Rechao eateries are a blend of budget-friendly dining spots and pubs. They draw diners from various social backgrounds.[3]Rechao restaurants typically offer diners seating on plasticstools at short tables.[3] Seats generally are set up outside by the road, below anunderpass, in vacant lots, or on sidewalks.[4][5] The eateries have plain decor.[17] Typically located next to bustlingintersections or atstreet corners, the restaurants have vivid red and yellow latterns arranged similarly toChristmas lights.[1] It can be physically challenging to eat atrechao restaurants as customers frequently are packed closely together and become sweaty from Taiwan's humidity.[5] TheTaipei Times's Ho Yi typically steered clear ofrechao establishments owing to the unclean environment and uncertain sanitation protocols. Ho did not like that intoxicated males wouldchain smoke as they loudly engaged indrinking games.[18]
Diners drink substantial amounts ofbeer, usually from theTaiwan Beer brand.[3][19] According to a 2023 article and book, almost 45% of Taiwan's beer purchases comes fromrechao restaurants.[1][5] Attractivebeer saleswomen [zh] receive compensation to sell specific beer brands. Wearing low-cut shirts and short skirts, they visit each table to market the beer brand, serve the beverage into tinyshot glasses, and top off the cups.[1][4] The women play a major role in generating profits for both therechao restaurant and the beer suppliers.[7] Arechao restaurant's ambiance often is very vibrant.[3] The restaurants operate well into the night. TheLinsen Park [zh] in Taipei'sZhongshan District has numerous well-knownrechao restaurants that stay open after 1 am.[6]
Rechao establishments create settings for numerous Taiwanese to connect with each other, dining and conversing amid the sound ofglasses clinking andwoks sizzling.[3][6] They may linger at the same place for several hours while consuming food and beverages.[5] Therechao restaurant's open space lets diners relax, laugh, and converse and allow them to foster deep connections with each other.[7] It is among the favorite places for young people looking for a laid-back meeting spot.[20] The youth meet to share amusing stories from school and to cultivate responsible drinking habits. While casually enjoying drinks, middle-aged patrons reminisce about their accomplishments and discuss Taiwan's current events andpolitics. When conversations get heated, friends refill each other's drinks. To relieve stress, they down beers while sharing their work frustrations. Diners play the Taiwanesedrinking game "guess fingers" (Chinese:划酒拳).[7] Friends and workmates eat delicious food while engaging in light-hearted conversations. Couples end their relationships there, while friends share rumors and coworkers vent their frustrations.[6]
According to the food writerClarissa Wei, the Taiwanese people are known for their restrained and unapologetically courteous demeanor. She said that during therechao experience, they reveal their real identities. Wei witnessed side-splitting laughter powerful enough to cause beer to spray from people's nostrils and intoxicated adult males falling face-first onto several tables. She observed a parade of pink-faced diners who had not met before celebrating together just because the week has concluded. Wei concluded that like just as in every culture, food and sufficient alcoholic beverages unites humans, and "therechao experience in Taiwan—hot, noisy, and messy, in all its glory—remains my all-time favorite".[1]
The primary cooking techniques atrechao eateries arefrying,deep frying,grilling, andboiling.[7]Rechao dishes are typically cooked in largewoks powered by strongstoves.[5] The food writer Fan Qiaoxin attributed therechao restaurant's success towok hei.[21] Frying the food over high temperatures give the dishes a lightly charred taste.[1] The chefs cranks up the stove to the highest temperature to rapidly stir fry the dishes.[4] Served quickly, the steaming dishes are filled withsalt and have several levels ofumami. The food is crafted to complementbeer and designed to appeal to a diverse crowd. Food writerClarissa Wei wrote thatrechao dishes convey a unified narrative of "what it means to be Taiwanese, an identity that is multicultural and nuanced".[5]Rechao dishes are a prominent outlier from Taiwanese food that generally is not heavy onsalt orspiciness.[1] They have generous amounts of oil and salt to complement beverages like beer.[7] Many of the items includechili pepper—though only the tamest kinds—as ingredients. All the dishes include generous sprinklings ofwhite pepper and salt.[1]
The food highlights Taiwan's plentiful supply of harvests, protein, and seafood.[5]Rechao restaurants offer dishes featuring, meat, vegetables, and seafood. Vegetable dishes like friedburdock root andstir-friedferns are served.[3] Recently caught seafood is a significant hallmark of therechao experience.[1] A number ofrechao restaurants havefish tanks that allow customers to select the fish,shellfish,shrimp,crabs, andclams to be prepared by the restaurant.[1][5][13] Set on ice, fresh food like vegetables, chicken, andsquid can be chosen by customers.[13] Severalrechao restaurants let diners provide fish they have personally procured.[5] Seafood dishes includeoysters that aredeep fried, squid that is grilled, garlic-coated clams that are stir-fried,sweet and sour fish that is deep fried, and grilledoilfish seasoned withmiso.[3][5] Meat dishes includethree-cup chicken; a stir fry of beef and pepper; pork neck; andclay pot chicken stewed withsesame oil,rice wine, andsoy sauce.[3][5][17] Numerousrechao restaurants servesashimi andfried rice, while some serveFrench fries.[3][5][6]
Rechao menu items are inspired by the culinary traditions from numerous cultures includingFujianese,Japanese,Korean,Sichuanese,Southeast Asian, andTaiwanese.[6] Japan's cultural impact on Taiwan is reflected through howrechao restaurants offer sashimi accompanied by a small amount ofwasabi.[5] Different varieties ofteppanyaki dishes are served. Abeef tenderloin dish fusesbell peppers andonions from Western cuisine with a signature Taiwanese black pepper sauce.[22] Otherteppanyaki dishes are made withostrich meat.[23] Instead of being a direct reproduction of dishes from other regions, somerechao dishes showcase a Taiwanese flair. For instance, for several thousand years,Sichuanese people made poachedpork belly coated insoy sauce andchili oil. The Taiwanese produced a slightly sweeter dish by instead drenching it inginger andsoy paste.[5]
Clarissa Wei, the food writer, said the blend of cuisines that influencerechao causes there to be dishes that exist nowhere else globally. She cited shrimp that is deep-fried and accompanied by colorfulsprinkles,pineapple, andmayonnaise. A second dish she highlighted was a stir fry oftofu,celery,dried shredded squid, and pork as well aspork sausage that is grilled. A third dish she cited was themaqaw-enrichedpork sausages. Having traces of lemon and pepper,maqaw is native to Taiwan. Wei highlighted a fourth dish containing stir-fried ferns that are accompanied bybirdlime tree seeds. Taiwan's subtropical conditions allow ferns to grow naturally and in great numbers.[5] In a public opinion analysis,DailyView in 2024 listed the top 10rechao dishes as sashimi; pineapple shrimp balls;Kung Pao chicken; stir-fried cabbage; fried egg with radish;three-cup chicken; Hakka stir-fry containing squid,pork belly, and tofu;wu geng chang wang (spicyduck blood and intestines); stir-fried beef with scallions; and stir-fried clams.[24]
The World of Chinese writerTerence Hsieh [zh-yue] said in 2020 that for numerousrechao restaurants, all dishes are priced underNT$150 (US$5), while food writerClarissa Wei stated in 2023 that the final bill per individual from her observations is around NT$419 (US$15).[5][6] Wei said this cost much more than a typical Taipei dinner outing but remained affordable in the context of being a "rare elongated social activity" where diners linger for several hours.[5]
Eight Immortals Barbeque Grill or Baxian Grill (Chinese:八仙碳烤), a Taipeirechao eatery close toDaan Forest Park, incorporates elements of both Chinese and Japanese cuisine.[1][3][25] Japanese-inspired dishes likeyam salad and mayonnaise-coveredbamboo shoots and Chinese dishes likestinky tofu were on its menu in 2019.[3] Other dishes it offered in 2023 were ginger-infusedfiddleheads,clams drenched inrice wine, a chickencasserole covered in basil, andfried rice containing pork pieces.[1] Pin Xian (Chinese:品鱻), arechao restaurant in Taipei, in 2020 served pork liver strips that are pan fried and coated in a sweet sauce,bitter melon alongsidesalted duck egg,omelets that arepan fried withbasil, andclams stir fried using peppers andblack bean sauce. Other dishes it served were salmon sashimi,garlic-infusedwatercress, pork boiled and accompanied withcilantro and garlic sauce,tofu that is deep fried, andcod steamed and garnished withsoy sauce, peppers, ginger, garlic, andsoybeans.[6]
One Jiang is a more upscalerechao restaurant inTaichung. It in 2020 servedsweet and sour pork ribs, tornado omelets seasoned withfish sauce, large orange shrimp, oysters deep fried and complemented by basil, bitter melon deep fried and topped with peanuts, seafoodhot pot, and eggs withcabbage.[6] At theAowanda National Forest Recreation Area inNantou County, the Red Resort Village Restaurant has a menu with items usually available inrechao eateries. Dishes in 2020 included fish that has been deep fried,braised pork belly with a side ofpickled vegetables,sautéed mushrooms and other vegetables, tofu that has been braised, and scallion-seasoned fried chicken.[26]
Fat Man Eatery (Chinese:胖子小吃部) is arechao eatery in Taipei'sSongshan District founded by a former casinotycoon.[27] Established by Hu Ching-Chung (Chinese:胡慶忠), it began as astreet vendor. The food writerClarissa Wei said that through his charismatic personality and his wife's exceptional culinary skills, Fat Man Eatery evolved into arechao establishment. By 2023, their son, Hu Nei-Ta (Chinese:胡內達), had become the co-owner and chef of therechao. The younger Hu said that food is cooked in a massive wok owing to the wok's efficiency.[1] Lin Mei Ru Seafood Stir Fry Restaurant (Chinese:林美如海鮮熱炒) is afusionrechao andizakaya establishment in Taipei'sZhongshan District. The restaurant's name, "Lin Mei Ru", is similar to "drink beer" in Taiwanese. Quotes related to drinking alcohol adorn the ceiling and walls. In a nod to its fusion identity, the restaurant servesTaiwan Beer and Japanese beers from theOrion andSapporo breweries. Equipped with a fish tank, the restaurant has numerous seafood dishes and over 100 dishes on its menu. It in 2023 served traditionalrechao dishes as well assashimi,threadfin, andizakaya light bites.[28]
Chao Stir Fry (Chinese:炒炒蔬食熱炒) is a veganrechao eatery in Taipei'sDaan District. The establishment's entrance features a vegan fish tank. Chao plays a mixture ofMandopop andTaiwanese pop. Diners sit on red stools at black tables with chrome finishes, matching the colors used at a typicalrechao eatery. Its menu in 2022 included the typicalrechao dishes of bitter melon soup,fried noodles,green beans,mapo tofu, andKung Pao "chicken". It put a twist on some traditional dishes, changingthree-cup chicken into three-cup mushroom as well assweet and sour pork into sweet and sour "fish".[14] Rather than using real meat or fish, soy or mushroom alternatives are substituted for protein. According to the food writerClarissa Wei, it would be quite common for the restaurant to be patronized at the same time by nuns at one table and businessmen drinking beer at another table.[29] Ten Seafood Restaurant (Chinese:田僑海鮮餐館) is arechao eatery in theHengchun township ofPingtung County in southern Taiwan. Its dishes include three-cup chicken and the less typical items likeyu lai gu, which is similar toblack fungus.[30]
Xanadu (Chinese:鮮納肚) was arechao in theEastern District of Taipei. It hadbeer saleswomen [zh], featured numerousoffal menu items, and had a comprehensive seafood selection.[18] Drunken Monkey (Chinese:醉悟空格鬥熱炒) was arechao restaurant in Taipei that offered traditionalrechao dishes as well asCantonese and Western dishes. It was founded in 2011 by Alex Holliday, whose grandfather had moved to Vancouver to start the Capilano Heights Chinese Restaurant after fleeing China during theChinese Civil War. His grandfather taught Holliday how to make Cantonese dishes.Rechao dishes the eatery served in 2012 were oysters that were deep fried, prawns that were deep fried alongside pineapple, Kung Pao chicken, and clams covered in basil. Western dishes includedchicken nuggets andonion rings. Cantonese dishes included fried pork coated inbatter,scallions and tofu, and beef mixed with scallions and tofu. Adopting a retro look, the restaurant featured illustrations of tales fromChinese mythology and black-and-white photos of the restaurant his grandfather founded. Customers sat at yellow tables surrounded by stools and wrote their thoughts on the walls.[19]
Therechao restaurant 886 was established in 2018 by Eric Sze and Andy Chuang and in theEast Village neighborhood of New York City'sLower Manhattan.[3] The restaurant's name was inspired by Taiwan'scalling code.[3] Americans, Taiwanese expatriates, and tourists dine at the restaurant. Reflecting a typical Taiwanese eatery, the restaurant features vibrant neon lighting and a lively atmosphere and also imports beer glasses, plastic chairs, and metal folding tables from Taiwan.[31] Customers in 2019 could order Taiwanesecomfort food likeoyster omelettes,sausages andglutinous rice,pineapple andshrimp balls stir-fried together, and rice topped withbraisedpork belly. That year, it servedchicken wings andchicken burgers containingdaikon andketchup. The two flavors of beers it offered that year were both fromTaiwan Beer: a gold brandedlager and alychee beer.[3]
Media related toRechao at Wikimedia Commons
