 King Chulalongkorn wearsRaj pattern in 1890 | |
| Type | National costume anddress uniform for men |
|---|---|
| Place of origin | Thailand |
Raj pattern (Thai:ราชปะแตน,RTGS: rat-pataen,pronounced[râːt.pā.tɛ̄ːn]) refers either to aThai men'scostume consisting of a whitejacket with five buttons, achong kraben, knee-lengthsocks andslip-on shoes, or to the specific form of the jacket itself. It was worn chiefly during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries by government officials and the upper class inBangkok, and nowadays is used in select circumstances as anational costume. The symbolizes a fusion ofThai tradition and western influences during the era of modernization.
In 1870, the king had his entourage dressed in a combination ofchong kraben (awrap worn with part of the fabric folded back between the legs and tucked behind the waist) and Westernsuit jacket, socks and shoes during his visit toSingapore andJava.
Theraj pattern was devised by KingChulalongkorn (Rama V) during his visit toBritish India in 1871, where he hired aCalcutta tailor to make a jacket with a standingcollar and buttoned vertical opening. This new jacket replaced the suit jacket, alleviating the need for a separate layer of shirt in the hot climate, and the dress soon became the de facto civil uniform.[1] It was worn both officially and privately and remained popular until thePibulsonggram era, when thechong kraben was banned bycultural mandate. The nameraj pattern, fromPalirājā and Englishpattern and meaningroyal pattern,[2] was coined by Phon Bunnak (later the Chao Phraya Phasakorawong), who was acting as royal secretary during the king's journey.[1]
Nowadays, the fullraj pattern costume is worn only on select occasions as a national costume, and is employed regularly only in the tourism industry. The jacket, however, has found continued use in thedress uniforms of the civil and military services,[2] as well as the formal clothing worn with thesuea khrui as theacademic dress of certain universities, where it is worn with trousers in the Western style. Another Thai garment which is very similar in design is thesuea phraratchathan.
The Raj pattern has similarities with theNehru jacket, but specific characteristics.
Rama V wore the original Raj pattern while on an unofficial tour of theMalay Peninsula in 1890. Thetailored fit jacket features a standing collar with a vertical five-button front. The long sleeves have 2 buttons. The white round buttons are fabric cloth covered. All buttons are fastened while standing. There is 1 curvedpatch pocket (no flaps) on the lower left side of the chest, horizontally aligned above the left forearm. It's made of the same material as the jacket and stitched on. There are 2 curved patch pockets on the lower front of the jacket (waist height). The entire jacket hascorduroy raised vertical lines. The jacket sleeve ends just before the wrist bone of the hand while standing relaxed. Adress shirt is usually not worn underneath due to thewarm climate in Thailand. The shirt cuffs are covered by the sleeves in relaxed state. The jacket length is between the wrist bone and the first set of knuckles when arms are relaxed at the side.
Modern Raj pattern jackets may have 2 welt pockets on the chest and 2 on the lower front side. The fabric can beembellished with a variety of patterns and colors.
Traditionally Rama V worechong kraben with white or bicolor horizontal striped, knee-lengthsocks and formal blackloafers. A staff member wore whiteOxford shoes. Nowadays, men also wear formaltrousers withdress shoes.
These are examples of men wearing raj pattern.
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