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Princess line

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Garment cut without a horizontal waist seam
Not to be confused withcoronation gown.
"Princess Line" redirects here. For the franchise alternatively known as the "Princess Line", seeDisney Princess.
1878–1880 Princess line dress.V&A, CIRC.606-1962[1]
A princess line dress is shown on the left. The other dress has a clear separation between bodice and skirt. September 1905

Princess line orprincess dress describes a woman's fitteddress or other garment cut in long panels without a horizontal join or separation at the waist.[2][3] Instead of relying ondarts to shape the garment, the fit is achieved with longseams (princess seams) and shapedpattern pieces.[4] A rarely used alternative name for the princess line wasFrench-dart-line dress.[5][6]

History

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19th century

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The princess line is popularly associated withCharles Frederick Worth who first introduced it in the early 1870s.[2][7] It was named in honour of the famously elegantPrincess Alexandra.[7][8] By the late 1870s and early 1880s the princess dress was a popular style. It is considered one of the first "bodycon" (body-conscious) fashions due to its extremely closely fitted design, presenting the figure in a natural (or at least,corseted) form undistorted by eithercrinoline orbustle.[8] Princess-linepolonaises were worn over long underskirts.[9] The princess line was also popular for young girls who wore it with asash or, if slightly older, over a longer underskirt.[10]

20th century

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The princess line was a staple of dress design and construction throughout the century. In 1951 the couturierChristian Dior presented a princess-line-based fashion collection which is sometimes called the "Princess Line", although its official name wasLigne Longue or "Long Line".[11]

21st century

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The princess line remains a popular style forwedding dresses and a design staple for both day and evening dresses.[2][4] More recently, the design principle has been applied to men's garments, which generally do not have waist seams.[12]

See also

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References

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  1. ^"Princess dress, 1878-1880, jacquard woven silk and ruched silk trimmed with machine made lace".V&A Search the Collections. Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved31 July 2014.
  2. ^abcDelamore, Philip (2005).The wedding dress : a sourcebook. London: Pavilion Books. p. 34.ISBN 9781862057029.
  3. ^Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. (2011).The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. p. 238.ISBN 9780810840041.
  4. ^abCamp, Carole Ann (2011).Teach yourself visually fashion sewing. Hoboken, N.J.: Wiley Pub. p. 230.ISBN 9780470881316.
  5. ^Farmer, Bonnita M.; Gotwals, Lois M. (1982).Concepts of fit : an individualized approach to pattern design. New York: Macmillan. p. 199.ISBN 9780023362606.
  6. ^Shelden, Martha Gene (1974).Design through draping. USA: Burgess Pub. Co. p. 35.ISBN 9780808719069.
  7. ^abReeder, Jan Glier (2010).High style : masterworks from the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art. p. 41.ISBN 9781588393623.
  8. ^abFukai, Akiko (2002).Fashion : the collection of the Kyoto Costume Institute : a history from the 18th to the 20th century. Köln [etc.]:Taschen. p. 246.ISBN 9783822812068.
  9. ^Stamper, Anita; Condra, Jill (2010).Clothing through American History the Civil War through the Gilded Age, 1861-1899. Santa Barbara: ABC-CLIO. p. 271.ISBN 9780313084584.
  10. ^Ashelford, Jane (2009).The Art of Dress Clothes and Society, 1500–1914 ([New?] ed.). London: Gardners Books. p. 283.ISBN 9781905400799.
  11. ^Marly, Diana de (1990).Christian Dior. London: B.T. Batsford. p. 45.ISBN 9780713464535.For the autumn 1951 Dior announced his Long Line, [...] The main cut for dresses was the princess line, Worth's invention to avoid waistlines...
  12. ^Kim, Myoung; Kim, Injoo (2014).Patternmaking for menswear: classic to contemporary. New York: Fairchild Books & Visuals. p. 197.ISBN 9781609019440.
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