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Pigache

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

11th and 12th century European shoe with long upturned toe
This article is about the 12th-century Western European shoe and is not to be confused withpoulaine.
TheAntichrist, depicted in a 1120 copy ofLambert'sLiber Floridus with pigaches or theirpattens extended into absurdly long horns,[1] a style later actually worn as the 14th-centurypoulaines

Thepigache, also knownby other names, was a kind ofshoe with a sharp upturned point at the toes thatbecame popular inWestern Europe during theRomanesque Period. The same name is also sometimes applied to earlier similarByzantine footwear.

Names

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PriestlyByzantineEgyptian footwear(5th–8th cent.), sometimes conflated with the later pigaches
Fulk,King Philip,Bertha, andBertrade, from the Chronicle of St Denis(14th cent.)

TheEnglish namepigache wasborrowed fromFrench, where the name was originally used for a kind ofhoe and as ahunting term for awild boarhoofprint longer on one side than the other.[2] It appeared inMedieval Latin aspigacia[3][4] andpigatia.[5] The pigache is also known as thepigage,[6]pulley shoe,[7][8]pulley toe,[1] orpulley-toe shoe.[9] Less often,Orderic Vitalis's terms of opprobrium are reworked into names:scorpion's tail orram's horn shoe.[10] The namepigache is also sometimes also applied to earlier pointedByzantine footwear from as early as the 5th century.[11] It is also simply glossed as apointed-toe shoe[12] and sometimes conflated with the laterpoulaine.

Design

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Pigaches in an 11th cent.illumination from anAquitainetonary

The pigache had a pointed and curved toe,[6] whichOrderic Vitalis compared with the tail of ascorpion[4] (quasi caudas scorpionum).[3] The shoes were sometimes stuffed to make the extension firmer and more erect. The end of the toe was sometimes adorned with a small bell.[6] The points of pigaches were, however, more moderate in length than the laterpoulaines[4] which spread fromPoland in the 14th century.

History

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William Rufus in pigaches in a 1915 illustration of the life ofSt Anselm

The pigache was worn in the late 11th[12] and early 12th century[6] and excited the ridicule of poets and historians and the censure of clergy[4] to the point it is sometimes described as "notorious".[8]St Anselm banned its use byEnglish clerics at the1102 Synod of Westminster, alongside enacting theGregorian Reform and prohibitingslavery,sodomy,clerical marriage, and the inheritance ofbenefices and other forms ofsimony.[13] As a returningpapal legate, the former professorRobert de Courson banned other faculty of theUniversity of Paris from wearing them in August 1215.[14] The same year, theFourth Lateran Council also banned them forCatholicclergy.[15][16]Orderic Vitalis blamed the creation of the pigache onFulk ofAnjou[7] (1043–1109), claiming he used it to disguise the deformity of hisbunions[4][17][3] from his young brideBertrade in 1089.[18][19] Thefashion historian Ruth Wilcox offers that it may have been a simple adaptation of theNormans'sabatons, which they had extended to a point and turned down in the late 11th century to better hold theirstirrups during battle.[20]

The pigache became common inEngland underWilliam Rufus(r. 1087–1100), whosecourtier Robert the Horny (Robertus Cornardus)[17] usedtow to curl the ends of his shoes into the form of aram'shorn[4] (instar cornu arietis).[21] Orderic blamed the spread as caused by and contributing to theeffeminate men (effeminati) and "foulcatamites" (foedi catamitae) involved in theroyal courts ofEurope,[17] while simultaneously describing how most courtiers adopted the fashion to "seek the favors of women with every kind of lewdness".[22][23]William of Malmesbury similarly condemned the shoes in terms questioning the wearers' masculinity.[1]Guibert of Nogent, while no less dismissive, associated the style more with women and blamed its origin on footwear exported fromIslamicCordoba, whose residents he separately associated with effeminacy andhomosexualrape.[1]

After its initial excesses reaching about 2 inches (5 cm) beyond the foot,[20] the style settled into a more conservative and compact form for a century until theBlack Death and the spread of the still more excessivepoulaine style fromPoland in the mid-14th century.[12]

See also

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References

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Citations

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  1. ^abcdRubenstein (2019), p. 38.
  2. ^D'Alembert (1751).
  3. ^abcChibnall (1973), pp. 186–187.
  4. ^abcdefPlanché (1876), p. 459.
  5. ^Chibnall (1973), pp. 190–193.
  6. ^abcdBossan (2012), p. 266.
  7. ^abAird (2016), p. 196.
  8. ^abCoatsworth & al. (2018), p. 349.
  9. ^Yarrow (2011), p. 112.
  10. ^Yarwood (1980), p. 163.
  11. ^Lewandowski (2011), p. 229.
  12. ^abcYarwood (1978), p. 366.
  13. ^Perry (1890), p. 190.
  14. ^Robert de Courson (1215).
  15. ^Alberigo & al. (1973).
  16. ^Dittmar & al. (2021).
  17. ^abcMills (2015), p. 82.
  18. ^Schibanoff (2006), p. 36.
  19. ^Aird (2008), pp. 127–128.
  20. ^abWilcox (1948), p. 65.
  21. ^Chibnall (1973), pp. 186–189.
  22. ^Mills (2015), p. 83.
  23. ^Chibnall (1973), pp. 188–189.

Bibliography

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