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Head cheese

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Cold cut non-dairy meat jelly or terrine
This article is about the meat product. For other uses, seeHead cheese (disambiguation).
"Brawn" redirects here. For other uses, seeBrawn (disambiguation).
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Head cheese, Elizabeth's restaurant,New Orleans
Look up head cheese in Wiktionary, the free dictionary.

Head cheese (Dutch:hoofdkaas) orbrawn is ameat jelly orterrine made of meat.[1] Somewhat similar to a jelliedmeatloaf,[1] it is made withflesh from the head of a calf or pig (less commonly a sheep or cow), typically set inaspic. It is usually eaten cold, at room temperature, or in a sandwich. Despite its name, the dish is not a cheese and contains no dairy products. The parts of the head used vary, and may include thetongue but do not commonly include thebrain, eyes orears. Trimmings from more commonly eaten cuts of pork and veal are often used, and sometimes the feet andheart, withgelatin added as abinder.

Variations of head cheese exist throughout Europe and elsewhere, with differences in preparation and ingredients. A version pickled with vinegar is known assouse.[2] Historically, meat jellies were made of the head of an animal, less its organs, which would be simmered to produce a naturally gelatinous stock that would congeal as the dish cooled. Meat jellies made this way were commonly apeasant food and have been made since the Middle Ages. Earlier brawns heavily featured spices and herbs, but beginning in the eighteenth century, the amount of seasoning was reduced. Contemporary brawn now features minimal spicing, usually sage, and perhaps a little lemon juice.[3] Head cheese recipes may also require additional gelatin, or more often need to be reduced to set properly.

Etymology

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The English termhead cheese is acalque derived from theDutch wordhoofdkaas, which literally translates to'head cheese'.[4] The termhoofdkaas can be divided intohoofd ('head') originating from the animal heads commonly used to prepare the dish, andkaas ('cheese') describing the texture, which resembles that of cheese.[5]

Terminology

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The termhead cheese is used inNorth America,[6][7][8]potted heid inScotland,[9][10] andbrawn elsewhere inBritain[9][11][12][13][14][15] andAustralia.[16] The namebrawn, coming from German and Old French, has had a variety of meanings, fromroasted meat to specific types of food.[1] At one point, in English, it referred to the meat of the wild boar, then abundant in Great Britain, from which this jellied dish was made.[3] The termsouse, a corruption of the GermanSülze, is used for the pickled variety in North America and theWest Indies.[17]

By country

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Europe

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  • Austria: Head cheese is known asPresswurst,Sulz orSchwartamaga in the most western regions. Depending on the region, it is often served with a light dressing (vinegar, sunflower seed oil or pumpkin seed oil, sliced onions).
  • Bulgaria: The mealпача (pacha) is prepared from pig's heads (primarily the ears), legs, and often tongue. The broth is heavily seasoned withgarlic before cooling.
  • Croatia: This cut is generally known ashladetina, and is commonly produced after thetraditional slaughter of pigs. A strongly seasoned version of this cut is calledtlačenica. The namešvargl is used for a variant where the chopped parts are stuffed inside the pig's stomach, similar to a Scottishhaggis.
  • Cyprus: made with pork and known aszalatina, a word possibly derived from the English wordgelatin. It is often seasoned with lemon juice.
  • Czech Republic: Thehuspenina orsulc (from GermanSülze) is made from pig's heads or legs boiled together, chopped, mixed in their broth, poured into a pan, and left in the cold to solidify. Other ingredients may include onion, pepper, allspice, bayleaf, vinegar, salt, carrot, parsley, root celery, and sometimes eggs. A similar product,tlačenka, is basicallyhuspenina with some more meat, chopped liver, and various offal, poured into a prepared pig stomach and left to solidify under the weight.Tlačenka is generally thicker thanhuspenina, and commonly is eaten with chopped onions and sprinkled with vinegar.
  • Denmark, Norway and Sweden:Sylte,sylta oraladåb, was originally made from the head of pig, but now commonly is made from the forequarters or shanks of pork or veal and seasoned withallspice,bay leaves, andthyme; this forms part of the traditional Christmassmörgåsbord, served onrugbrød orlefse with strongmustard and pickledbeetroots. Arolled version (Danish/Norwegian:rullepølse, Swedish:rullsylta) made in an otherwise similar way also exists; however, this contains very little aspic.
  • Estonia:Sült is similar to the German or Croatian dish (the name is a loan, as well), but usually is less seasoned and is made from higher quality meat.Sült tends to be a rather loose form of head cheese with higher aspic to meat ratio and the aspic soft enough that the dish would usually start to slightly fall apart/melt if left at room temperature (harder variants do exist). Sometimescarrots orgreens are added. It is a traditional Christmas dish, but is sold in stores year round. The traditionalsült is made from pork using its gelatinous parts. Beef, poultry, and fish variants are also available.Sült might be served with diluted vinegar to be poured over. Horseradish or strong mustard are also common accompaniments.
  • Finland: Head cheese is known assyltty,tytinä oraladobi.
  • France and Belgium: In French, it is referred to asfromage de tête,tête pressée,tête fromagée (which translates as'cheesed head') orpâté de tête.
GermanSülze
Saurer Presssack
  • Germany: Head cheese is known asSülze,Schwartenmagen, orPresskopf. InBavaria,Presssack comes in three varieties (deep red, pinkish, and grey) in the form of a large (15 cm (5.9 in) diameter) sausage.Sülze can have a tangy flavour by adding pickles or vinegar. It usually takes the form of a rectangular loaf, which is then sliced into portions. There is a white coloured variety and two different red ones, using blood, one made with beef tongue (as inZungenwurst) and aspic, the other without. InFranconia,Saurer Presssack is served in a salad with a vinaigrette and vegetables. Early references toSulcze in documents of the Counts ofKatzenelnbogen date from 1410 and 1430.[18]
When using only pure meat of highest quality (i.e., without fat, gristle or meat of lower quality) it is calledKaisersülze ('Emperor's Aspic').
GermanSchwartenmagen in a tin as it is sold as a type ofHausmacher-Wurst, i.e. homemade sausage
  • Greece: In Greece and among Greeks of the diaspora, it is known aspichti (πηχτή) and usually incorporates vinegar.
  • Hungary: A variant of head cheese,disznósajt, ordisznófősajt (pork cheese or pork head cheese), is made of mixed meat slices (especially from the head of the pig,[19]) spices, paprika, and pieces of bacon cooked in spicystock. The chopped meat is stuffed into the pig's stomach, similar to Scottish haggis, pricked with needles, then pressed down with weights to remove excess fat and make it tight and compact. Often it is smoked like sausages or ham.
  • Iceland:Sviðasulta, a form of head cheese, is made fromsvið, singed sheep's head, sometimes cured inlactic acid.
  • Ireland:brawn is considered a rare delicacy and is made from pig's head. It dates from at least the early 19th century CE.[20][21]
  • Italy: In Genoa, a similar cold cut goes by the name oftesta in cassetta, literally'head in a box', but it is possible to find it throughout all of central and northern Italy, where it is calledcoppa di testa, or simplycoppa,soppressata in Tuscany, or – in some northern regions –formaggio di testa ('head cheese'). In central Italy (Lazio, Umbria), it is common to put orange peel pieces in it, or to serve it in a salad together with oranges and black olives. In the Campania region, the head and foot, called'o pere e 'o musso, is boiled, left whole and sliced, served with lupini beans and fresh lemon. A version in aspic from Sicily known asliatina includes the head, feet, skin and ears, flavored with bay leaf, pepper, vinegar and lemon.
Sliced Latvian head cheese
  • Latvia:Galerts is a similar Latvian food consisting of meat in gelatin, often with vegetables, such as carrots, and celery added to the resulting colloidal suspension. Horseradish or vinegar can be poured over thegalerts when serving it.
  • Lithuania:Košeliena (derived fromkošė'pulp, squash') oršaltiena (derived fromšalta,'cold', referring to how the dish is served), is usually made from pig's feet; sometimes part of head is added.
Camembert, head cheese, andterrine de campagne
  • Luxembourg:Jelli is essentially the same as in the neighbouring Germany and France, made from pork, and commonly eaten on buttered bread (optionally with mustard). A specialty are varying kinds of pastries filled withjelli that are made with aspic containing Riesling wine, most famouslyRieslingspaschtéit.
  • Netherlands and Belgium: Head cheese is known under several regional names and variations. InBrabant, it is calledzult and is made with blood. Pig's foot provides thegelatin and a little vinegar is added to it.In Limburg, it is calledhoofdkaas, meaning'head cheese', and is eaten on bread or withLimburgisch sausage as a starter. A red, sweet variety and a slightly sour, grey variety are available. The red one can be compared to Brabantinezult. Bothzult andpreskop are also found in Limburg, thoughzult is less sour, whereaspreskop often contains black pepper and is eaten on wholewheat bread. In Belgium, head cheese is also calledkop orkopvlees, which translates as'meat from the head'.
  • Poland: The nearest Polish equivalent of head cheese issalceson. According to Słownik Wyrazów Obcych PWN, the word comes from the Italiansalsiccione meaningsalsiccia di grosse dimensioni. According to Wielka Encyklopedia Powszechna PWN,salceson traditionally is encased in either a pig's stomach or a cow's bladder. Specific varieties include:s. ozorkowy'tongue' which uses beef tongue;s. brunszwicki'Brunswick' which uses liver and is spiced with marjoram;s. włoski'Italian' which is spiced with garlic, black pepper, fennel and cumin seeds;s. czarny'black' which contains blood, semolina and bread crumbs, and can be regarded as a variant ofkaszanka.
  • Portugal: Known ascabeça de xara, it is mainly prepared in theAlentejo region.[22]
  • Romania: Two versions includetobă'drum' or, especially inTransylvania,caş de cap de porc ('pig head cheese', akin to the Hungariandisznófősajt), which looks like a wide, 4 in (10 cm) sausage and the marginally similarpiftie. It is the same dish as Serbian and Macedonianpihtije, in which the ingredients are poured into a bowl and refrigerated.Piftie is not necessarily head meat, but can be different kinds of meat, boiled with garlic and bay leaves. It is prepared by boiling pig's feet to make a soup, as feet contain more gelatin than any other part of the pig. The mixture is then cooled to make a jelly. Usually, garlic is added.
  • Russia: Head cheese is a popular food for festive occasions. Beef or lamb head cheese is also popular in the Jewish community. It is more popularly calledsaltisón (сальтисон),zelts (зельц), orkholodets (холодец).
  • Serbia: Head cheese in Serbia is calledšvargla, and it is particularly popular in northern Serbia, Vojvodina. While each village has its special recipe, with particular seasoning or special cuts of meat added, the basicšvargla is made with pig's tongue, heart, kidneys, skin and meat from the head. The meat is seasoned with paprika, salt, black pepper and garlic. Preparation consists of boiling the ingredients, filling the pig's stomach with them, and boiling the whole filled stomach again. Once the boiling is done,švargla is then pressed under weight, and smoked for several days.
  • Slovakia: A special variety of head cheese, calledtlačenka (pressed one), is popular inSlovakia. It is made of pork stomach stuffed withoffal and leftover parts of pig's heads and legs. It is seasoned withgarlic,paprika,black pepper, and other ingredients and usuallysmoked. It is traditionally served with sliced onion, vinegar, and bread.
Huspenina (also calledstudeno, meaning'cold one') is similar to a certain extent, but made with less meat and moregelatine. It is more similar toaspic,pork jelly, orhladetina.
  • Slovenia: it is known astlačenka,'pressed-one', or informally asžolca.
Potted heid, a Scottish version of head cheese
  • Spain: This cold cut is known ascabeza de jabalí,'boar's head'.
  • Sweden: Known assylta, a few variations are available with different meats, spices, and preparation methods, the most popular beingkalvsylta (jellied veal),pressylta (pressed pork and veal brawn), andrullsylta (rolled and pressed side of pork). Common seasonings are onions, white pepper, allspice, cloves, salt and bay leaves, and occasionally carrots and herbs are added to the ingredients.Sylta is often regarded as aseasonal food eaten at thejulbord atChristmas.
  • Switzerland: The recipe is known assülzli, and it is typically made with chopped ham or pork.
  • Ukraine: known askovbyk,kendiukh orsaltseson, head cheese is usually a combination of a variety of pork meats made into a pressed loaf.
    • Volhynia and Polisia historical regions have a specific variant of the dish, calledmatsyk, which is made to be especially meaty, filled to the brim with cured pork.

  • United Kingdom: In England and Wales, head cheese is referred to as brawn or (in Yorkshire and Norfolk) pork cheese. In Scotland, it is known aspotted heid (potted head of beef, pork, or sheep); the similar pottedhaugh orhough is made from the shank of the animal.[23]

Africa

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South Africa: Known assult inAfrikaans andbrawn inSouth African English. It is often flavoured withcurry.

Asia

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Iran: A common breakfast dish is known asckallepache.Kallapch is served in special restaurants known askallepazi. It consists of cooked sheep's head marinated in its oil and cinnamon. Iranians eat it as a heavy dish from about 5:00am.

China: In certain parts of Northern China, such as Beijing, 'pig head meat' is cooked and thinly sliced and served at room temperature. In southern China,xiao rou (肴肉) is made by boning and picklingpig trotters withbrine andalum. The meat is then rolled, pressed and eaten cold.[24] In northeastern China, a jellied pork skin dish is often made and served with a spicy soy sauce and vinegar mixture with crushed garlic and red chili powder.[25]

Korea: InKorean cuisine, a similar dish,pyeonyuk (편육), is made by pressing meat, usually from the head of the pig. It is eaten asanju (dishes associated withalcoholic beverages) and usually served to funeral visitors.

Vietnam: In Vietnam,giò thủ is a similar cold cut dish made aroundTết for New Year celebrations. It is a dish popular in the North and made of pork belly, pig's ears, garlic, scallions, onions, wood ear mushrooms, fish sauce, and cracked black pepper. Traditionally,giò thủ is wrapped in banana leaves and compressed in a wooden mold until the gelatin in the pig's ears bind it together.

A piece ofgiò thủ

Australia

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In Australia, it is known asbrawn orPresswurst. It is usually seen as something of an old-fashioned dish, although various large firms, such as D'Orsogna, Don Smallgoods and KR Castlemaine produce it.

Caribbean

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Souse is pickled meat and trimmings usually made from pig's feet, chicken feet or cow's tongue, to name a few parts.[26] The cooked meat or trimmings are cut into bite-sized pieces and soaked in a brine made of water, lime juice, cucumbers, hot pepper, salt and specially prepared seasonings. Usually it is eaten on Saturday mornings, especially in St. Vincent and Barbados. In Trinidad and Tobago, it is served or sold at most social gatherings, such as parties, all-inclusive fetes and sporting competitions.

Latin America

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Head cheese is popular and is usually referred to asqueso de cabeza inChile andColombia. In Peru, Ecuador,Bolivia, and Costa Rica, it is also known asqueso de chancho. It is known asqueso de cerdo in Uruguay and Argentina. InPanama, it is known assous (fromCaribbean English souse), made with pig's feet and prepared the same way as in the Caribbean; it is a dish from the Caribbean coast, where most of Panama's West Indian community resides.

In Brazil, head cheese is popular among thegaucho population and is commonly known asqueijo de porco'pig cheese'. In the German-colonized cities, such asPomerode andBlumenau, it follows the German recipe and is known asSülze.

In Mexico, it is known asqueso de puerco and is usually spiced with oregano, vinegar, garlic, and black pepper.[27]

North America

[edit]

Alberta, Canada: the typical jellied meat available in stores is labelled "head cheese", whether or not it is actually made from the head. The large Eastern European community in the province also has a (declining) tradition of making jellied meat at home, usually from pigs' feet, and this is calledstudenetz in thelocal dialect of the Ukrainian language.

Pennsylvania, United States: In thePennsylvania Dutch language, head cheese is called souse.Pennsylvania Germans usually prepare it from the meat of pig's feet or tongue and it is pickled with sausage.

Wisconsin,Illinois,Michigan, and other portions of theUpper Midwest, United States: Head cheese and sulze are both made from pork snouts and tongues, but head cheese often uses larger chunks of smoked meat, while sulze generally uses unsmoked, chopped meat and has added vinegar and pickles.

Louisiana,Mississippi,Alabama, and other portions of theDeep South, United States: The highly seasoned hog's head cheese is very popular as acold cut orappetizer. A pig's foot provides thegelatin that sets the cheese, and vinegar is typically added to give a sour taste. It is a popularCajun food and is often encountered seasoned with green onions. It is called in Louisiana Frenchfromage de cochon. In Mississippi, Alabama, and other Southern states, it is encountered in a spicy form known as souse or less spicy as hog's head cheese.

Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada: Throughout Newfoundland, brawn is typically made from wild game such as moose and caribou.

Ontario, Canada: Commercial, processed versions made with pork are sold in the deli section in some grocery stores in Ontario, such as in the German 'heimat' ofWaterloo Region.

Quebec, Canada: Calledtête fromagée, it is commonly available in grocery stores and butcher shops along withcretons andterrines.

Prince Edward Island, Canada: Now uncommon and seen as old fashioned. It was common before 1970 and often referred to as potted head or potted meat.

New Brunswick, Canada: A spread similar tocretons made from pork head andBoston butt and seasoned primarily with onion, salt, andsummer savory, is often referred to as head cheese.

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
  1. ^abcAyto, John (2013),"brawn",The Diner's Dictionary, Oxford University Press,doi:10.1093/acref/9780199640249.001.0001,ISBN 978-0-19-964024-9, retrieved2024-10-10{{citation}}: CS1 maint: work parameter with ISBN (link)
  2. ^"Souse".A Coalcracker in the Kitchen. 2018-12-09. Retrieved2021-03-23.
  3. ^abDavidson, Alan;Jaine, Tom (2014)."Brawn".The Oxford Companion to Food (3 ed.).Oxford, England:Oxford University Press (OUP).doi:10.1093/acref/9780199677337.001.0001.ISBN 9780191756276.OCLC 1119636257.
  4. ^"head cheese",Wiktionary, 2021-12-15, retrieved2022-12-06
  5. ^"Zoekresultaten".etymologiebank.nl. Retrieved2022-12-06.
  6. ^"headcheese noun - definition in British English Dictionary & Thesaurus - Cambridge Dictionary Online". Dictionary.cambridge.org. 2013-06-11. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  7. ^"Definition of headcheese". Collins English Dictionary. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  8. ^"headcheese: definition of headcheese in Oxford dictionary (British & World English)". Oxforddictionaries.com. 2013-06-19. Archived fromthe original on November 10, 2013. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  9. ^abMcNeill, F. Marian (1929).The Scots Kitchen (2006 ed.). Edinburgh: Mercat Press. p. 139.ISBN 1-84183-070-4.potted head (or Scots brawn){{cite book}}:ISBN / Date incompatibility (help)
  10. ^Robinson, Mairi (1985).The Concise Scots Dictionary. Aberdeen University Press. p. 512.ISBN 0-08-028492-2.
  11. ^"Search Chambers - Free English Dictionary". Chambers.co.uk. Archived fromthe original on 2013-11-10. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  12. ^"Definition of brawn". Collins English Dictionary. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  13. ^"brawn - Definition from Longman English Dictionary Online". Ldoceonline.com. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  14. ^"brawn: definition of brawn in Oxford dictionary (British & World English)". Oxforddictionaries.com. 2013-06-19. Archived fromthe original on July 17, 2012. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  15. ^"Brawn - Definition and More from the Free Merriam-Webster Dictionary". Merriam-webster.com. 2012-08-31. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  16. ^The Macquarie Dictionary and Thesaurus.Sydney, New South Wales, Australia: Herron. 1991. p. 55.ISBN 0-949757-59-4.
  17. ^"Souse: definition of souse in Oxford dictionary (British & World English)". Oxforddictionaries.com. 2013-06-19. Archived fromthe original on November 10, 2013. Retrieved2013-06-23.
  18. ^http://www.graf-von-katzenelnbogen.de/ 600 Years of Bratwurst, Head Cheese and the First Riesling of the World in Katzenelnbogen
  19. ^June Meyers Authentic Hungarian Heirloom Recipes Cookbook
  20. ^"Resources"(PDF).Food & Living.Archived(PDF) from the original on 2022-10-09. Retrieved2020-11-13.
  21. ^O'Sullivan, Kevin."National treasures like brawn, cream crackers and blaas get just desserts".The Irish Times.
  22. ^Outras Comidas."Cabeça de Xara, Receita Cabeça de Xara". Pt.petitchef.com. Archived fromthe original on 2012-03-14. Retrieved2013-06-01.
  23. ^"Plowt".www.dsl.ac.uk.Dictionary of the Scots Language. Retrieved10 December 2016.
  24. ^断桥冬雪 (January 25, 2006)."记忆里的镇江肴肉(图)" (in Chinese).
  25. ^"易记域名".www.hhspapp8.com. Archived fromthe original on January 9, 2009.
  26. ^Sinful alterations ruin boxed chocolates[Ontario Edition] March 27, 2002 page D.04 Toronto Star
  27. ^The People's Guide to Mexico By Carl Franz, Carl Franz, Lorena Havens, Steve Rogers, Lorena Havens

External links

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