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Grape syrup is acondiment made with concentratedgrape juice. It is thick and sweet because of its high ratio of sugar to water. Grape syrup is made by boiling grapes, removing their skins, and squeezing them through asieve to extract the juice. Like otherfruit syrups, a common use of grape syrup is as a topping to sweet cakes, such aspancakes orwaffles.
The ancient Greek name for grape syrup issiraios (σιραίος), in the general category ofhepsema (ἕψημα), which translates to 'boiled'.[1] The Greek name was used inCrete and, in modern times, inCyprus.[2]
Petimezi is the name for a type of Mediterranean grape syrup. The word comes from theTurkishpekmez, which usually refers to grape syrup, but is also used to refer tomulberry and other fruit syrups.[3][4]
Vincotto (not to be confused withvino cotto) is the southern Italian term for grape syrup. It is made only from cooked wine grape must (mosto cotto), with no fermentation involved. There is no alcohol or vinegar content, and no additives, preservatives or sweeteners are added. It is both a condiment and ingredient used in either sweet or savory dishes.
One of the earliest mentions of grape syrup comes from the fifth-century BC Greek physicianHippocrates, who refers tohépsēma (ἕψημα), the Greek name for the condiment.[5] The fifth-century BC Athenian playwrightAristophanes also makes a reference to it, as does Roman-era Greek physicianGalen.[5]
Grape syrup was known by different names inAncient Roman cuisine depending on the boiling procedure.Defrutum,carenum, andsapa were reductions ofmust. They were made by boiling down grape juice or must in large kettles until it had been reduced to two-thirds of the original volume,carenum; half the original volume,defrutum; or one-third,sapa. The Greek name for this variant of grape syrup wassiraion (σίραιον).[6]
The main culinary use ofdefrutum was to help preserve and sweetenwine, but it was also added tofruit andmeat dishes as a sweetening and souring agent and even given to food animals such asducks and sucklingpigs to improve the taste of their flesh.Defrutum was mixed withgarum to make the popular condimentoenogarum.Quince andmelon were preserved indefrutum andhoney through the winter, and some Roman women useddefrutum orsapa as acosmetic.Defrutum was often used as a food preservative in provisions for Roman troops.[7]
There is some confusion as the amount of reduction forsapa anddefrutum. As James Grout explains in itsEncyclopedia Romana,[8] authors informed different reductions, as follows:
The elder Cato, Columella, and Pliny all describe how unfermented grape juice (mustum, must) was boiled to concentrate its natural sugars. "A product of art, not of nature," the must was reduced to one half (defrutum) or even one third its volume (sapa) (Pliny, XIV.80),[9] although the terms are not always consistent. Columella identifiesdefrutum as "must of the sweetest possible flavour" that has been boiled down to a third of its volume (XXI.1).[10] Isidore of Seville, writing in the seventh century AD, says that it issapa that has been reduced by a third but goes on to imagine thatdefrutum is so called because it has been cheated or defrauded (defrudare) (Etymologies, XX.3.15).[11] Varro reverses Pliny's proportions altogether (quoted in Nonius Marcellus, De Conpendiosa Doctrina, XVIII.551M).[12]
Defrutumis mentioned in almost all Roman books dealing withcooking or household management.Pliny the Elder recommended thatdefrutum only be boiled at the time of thenew moon, whileCato the Censor suggested that only the sweetest possibledefrutum should be used.
Inancient Rome, grape syrup was often boiled inlead pots, which sweetened the syrup through the leaching of the sweet-tasting chemical compoundlead acetate into the syrup. Incidentally, this is thought to have causedlead poisoning for Romans consuming the syrup.[13][14] A 2009History Channel documentary produced a batch of historically accuratedefrutum in lead-lined vessels and tested the liquid, finding a lead level of 29,000 parts per billion (ppb), which is 2,900 times higher than contemporary American drinking water limit of 10 ppb. These levels are easily high enough to cause either acutelead toxicity if consumed in large amounts or chronic lead poisoning when consumed in smaller quantities over a longer period of time (asdefrutum was typically used).[14]
However, the use of leaden cookware, though popular, was not the general standard of use. Copper cookware was used far more generally and no indication exists as to how oftensapa was added or in what quantity. There is not, however, scholarly agreement on the circumstances and quantity of lead in these ancient Roman condiments. For instance, the original research was done byJerome Nriagu, but was criticized by John Scarborough, a pharmacologist and classicist, who characterized Nriagu's research as "so full of false evidence, miscitations, typographical errors, and a blatant flippancy regarding primary sources that the reader cannot trust the basic arguments."[15]
Grape syrup has been used in the Levant since antiquity, as evidenced by a document fromNessana in the northernNegev, within modernIsrael, that mentions grape syrup production. Sources describing theMuslim conquest of the Levant in 636 note that whenJews met withRashidun caliphUmar, who camped inJabiyah, southernGolan, they claimed that due to the harsh climate and plagues, they had to drink wine. Umar suggested honey instead, but they said it was not beneficial for them. As a compromise, Umar agreed they could make a dish from grape syrup without intoxicating effects. They boiled grape juice until two-thirds evaporated and presented it to Umar, who noted it reminded him of an ointment for camels. BotanistZohar Amar estimates that this explains the winepresses fromMishnaic andTalmudic times found in theMount Hermon area, which are similar to those used for grape syrup production in modern times.[16]
Islamic law increased the prevalence of grape syrup in the region due to theprohibition of wine, a practice that was strictly enforced during theMamluk period, when grape syrup became a common wine substitute among Muslims. RabbiJoseph Tov Elem, who lived inJerusalem around 1370, proposed that the honey mentioned in the Bible is actually grape syrup.Obadiah of Bertinoro also mentioned grape syrup among various types of honey sold in Jerusalem, andMeshullam of Volterra described it as "hard as a rock and very fine."Baalbek, in modern Lebanon, was particularly renowned for its dibs production, andIbn Battuta detailed the production process, noting the use of a type of soil to harden the syrup so that it remained intact even if the container broke. In the 15th century,hashish users mixed it with dibs to mitigate its effects. Rabbis such asNissim of Gerona and Obadish of Bertinoro discussed itskashrut. In the earlyOttoman period, there was sometimes a special tax on raisins and dibs. In the 19th century,Hebron exported significant quantities of grape syrup toEgypt, as documented bySamson Bloch andSamuel David Luzzatto.[16]
In early Islam,hépsēma was known in Arabic astilā’. Early caliphs distributedtilā’ to Muslim troops along with other foodstuffs, considering that it was no longer intoxicating. However, fermentation could resume in the amphorae, and in the late 710s, Caliph ‘Umar II prohibited drinking this beverage.[17]
The ancient Greek namehépsēma (now pronouncedépsēma inCypriot Greek) is still used to refer to the condiment, which is still made inCyprus.
| Nutritional value per 100 g (3.5 oz) | |||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Energy | 1,380 kJ (330 kcal) | ||||||||||||||||
80.9 g | |||||||||||||||||
0.4 g | |||||||||||||||||
0.9 g | |||||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||||
Varkazas, p. 203 | |||||||||||||||||
| †Percentages estimated usingUS recommendations for adults,[18] except for potassium, which is estimated based on expert recommendation fromthe National Academies.[19] | |||||||||||||||||
Petimezi (Greek:πετιμέζιGreek pronunciation:[petiˈmezi]), also calledepsima (έψημα) and in Englishgrapemust orgrape molasses, is a syrup that isreduced until it becomes dark and syrupy.Petimezi keeps indefinitely. Its flavor is sweet with slightly bitter undertones. The syrup may be light or dark colored, depending on the grapes used. Before the wide availability of inexpensive cane sugar,petimezi was a common sweetener inGreek cooking, along withcarob syrup andhoney.Petimezi is still used today in desserts and as a sweet topping for some foods. Thoughpetimezi can be homemade,[20][21] it is also sold commercially under different brand names.
Fruits and vegetables that have been candied by boiling inpetimezi (epsima) are calledretselia.
From late August until the beginning of December, many Greek bakeries make and sell dark crunchy and fragrantpetimezi cookies,moustokoúloura (μουστοκούλουρα).
Petimezopita (πετιμεζόπιτα) is a spiced cake withpetimezi.[22]
InIranian cuisine, grape syrup (inPersian:شیره انگور) is used to sweetenardeh (tahini), which is consumed at breakfast. An alternative isdate syrup, which is also widely used in Middle Eastern cooking.
Saba, (from the Latin wordsapa, with the same meaning),vincotto orvino cotto is commonly used in Italy, especially in the regions ofEmilia Romagna,Marche,Calabria, andSardinia, where it is considered a traditional flavor.
InNorth Macedonia, a form of grape syrup known asmadjun (Macedonian:Гроздов маџун) has been produced for centuries, commonly used as a sweetener, but also as traditional medicine. It never contains any added sugar.
InSouth Africa, the grape syrup is known asmoskonfyt.
Arrope is a form ofgrapeconcentrate typically produced inSpain. Often derived fromgrape varieties such asPedro Ximénez, it is made by boilingunfermentedgrape juice until the volume is reduced by at least 50%, and itsviscosity reduced to asyrup.[23][24] The final product is a thick liquid with cookedcaramel flavours, and its use is frequent as an additive for dark,sweet wines such as sweet styles ofsherry,Malaga, andMarsala.[24]
InTurkey, grape syrup is known aspekmez.
Grape syrup is known asdibs or dibsal-anab in the countries of the Levant (Palestine,Jordan,Lebanon,Israel andSyria). It is usually used as a sweetener and as part of desserts alongside carob syrup and bee honey. In areas of Palestine, it is also used to sweetenwine and eaten withleben and toasted nuts such as walnuts and almonds for breakfast.[citation needed] The syrup is made inDruze villages in the northernGolan Heights.[16]
