Paduasoy orpadesoy[1] (/ˈpædjuəsɔɪ/;French:peau de soie) is a luxurious strong corded orgrosgrainsilk textile that originated inEarly Modern Europe. The termpaduasoy first appeared in English in 1663.[2]
Paduasoy silk was woven in a variation of thesatin weave, with bindings arranged to create fine cross-ridges across the fabric.[3]
In theBritish East India Companysupercargoes' records, examined by Leanna Lee-Whitman,paduasoy made its first appearance in 1736.[4] Its fine appearance is endorsed in a letter toBenjamin Franklin in London from his wife, in 1765: "The chairs are plain horsehair and look as well as Paduasoy."[5]
In the British East India records consulted by Leanna Lee-Whitman, black paduasoys completely supplanted "plain" ones after 1761:[6]George Washington commissioned a friend, Tench Tilghman, to purchase numerous household items, "ifgreat bargains are to be had", from the cargo of a ship in theChina trade that had docked at Baltimore and were to be auctioned in October 1785. Among his requests, if they could be had cheaply, were "About 13 yds of good bla: paduasoy".[7]
Beatrix Potter employed paduasoy to set the old-fashioned scene inThe Tailor of Gloucester, which begins, "In the time of swords andperiwigs and full-skirted coats with floweredlappets—when gentlemen wore ruffles, and gold-lacedwaistcoats of paduasoy andtaffeta—there lived a tailor inGloucester.[8]
InElizabeth Gaskell'sCranford (1851), an old white paduasoy wedding dress longed for by Miss Matty's mother has been recut into a christening cloak for a baby.[9][10]