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Popo (drink)

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Mexican cold chocolate drink
Popo served in a traditional container, a jícara (wooden bowl)

Popo is a foamy and cold drink typical in the south of the state ofVeracruz and some areas of thestate of Oaxaca, like the basin of Papaloapan orIstmo. Its main ingredient iscocoa, which is sweetened withsugar orpanela (unrefined brown sugar), and is mixed with water; alsoazquiote called cocomeca en Oaxaca is added, and/orchupipi, both foaming agents. Some recipes frequently flavor it withcinnamon and/oranise, and they thicken it withmaize dough orrice.

It is a ceremonial drink, which is prepared for weddings, baptisms, birthdays, patron saint festivals...[1] Its consumption occurs with the cocoa harvest, between the months of August to December.[2] In Ojitlán, a type of cocoa called tiger is used for the white veins of its fruits.[3] In the local towns, such asTuxtepec, it is common to find street vendors offering a glass of popo for $10–15MXN pesos.

Its name comes from the Nahuatlpopocti ([thing] "that smokes" or "that foams"), according to anthropologist Florentíno Cruz,[4] in reference to the foaming characteristic of this drink. It is compared withPopocatépetl, which is the "mountain that smokes". Popo is strongly linked toindigenous communities, particularly theNahuas,Mixe-Popolucas,Zoque-Populucas,Mazatecs andChinatecs.[4] For these communities, the very preparation of the popo is in itself a ritual,[3] which can last up to two days.

Preparation

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Ingredients

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  • Cocoa beans (Theobroma cacao)
  • Fine whitesugar orpanela (unrefined whole cane sugar) (Saccharum officinarum)
  • Foaming agent, which can be:
    • Root, tender stems (sprouts) or flowers ofazquiote, asquiote or axquiote, Veracruzian name; also calledcocolmeca, cocolmecate, or cozolmeca, Oaxacan name (Smilax domingensis)[5]
    • Root, tender stems or fruit ofchupipi or chupipe (Gonolobus niger)[5]
  • Cinnamon stick or powder (Cinnamomum verum)
  • Whole or powderedanise (Pimpinella anisum)
  • Wholerice (Oryza sativa)
  • Water

Preparation

[edit]
Beating the popo with amolinillo (wooden whisk)

The rice is left in the water to soften. Meanwhile, the cacao beans roast lightly in a comal. In other recipes, the cacao is left toasted from the previous day. The cocoa beans should be toasted, but not burned, since it bitters the taste and they feel scratchy in the throat. After the beans will be shelled, a process that is laborious.

If the fruit of chupipi is used, it should be peeled and finely chopped. If azquiote stems are used, they are washed and also chopped. Cinnamon also can be lightly roasted to release its aroma and is cut up into pieces. Sometimes corn kernels or corn dough (masa) are also added. Corn isnixtamalized with corn cob ash and the corn leaf and then grounded and dried in the sun.

Everything together is grounded inmetate (a mealing stone) or in the nixtamal mill until a kind of dense paste remains. The paste is mixed with water and strained several times with a tusor rag (of cotton) orcolander. Finally, sugar and ices are added, and foamed with amolinillo (wooden whisk). It is traditional to serve it in a jícara bowl and eat it with spoonfuls accompanied bytamale.

Characteristics

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Popo is eaten coldly, usually with crushed ice, traditionally in a wooden bowl orjícara (teacup) (calledguasca orxicalli in Nahua). It has asweet andslightly spicy orspiced taste; some think it leaves a feeling of dryness in the mouth.[3] It is considered that a good Popo should be abundantly foamed.

See also

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Other Mexican cocoa drinks:

References

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  1. ^Sosa, Yuridiana (2019-03-10)."Popo: preservan mujeres oaxaqueñas su bebida ritual".El Universal (in Spanish). Retrieved2022-03-02.
  2. ^Mejía Martínez, Carolina (2019-09-07)."El popo, bebida atávica que pervive en Ojitlán".Los Chimoles (in European Spanish). Retrieved2022-03-02.
  3. ^abcGourmet de México (2019-12-06)."El Popo, bebida prehispánica de San Lucas Ojitlán".Gourmet de México: Vive el placer de la gastronomía. (in Spanish). Retrieved2022-03-02.
  4. ^abMartínez, Florentino Cruz."Hacia una geografía del popo"(PDF). RetrievedMarch 2, 2022.
  5. ^abTrinidad, Lesterloon Sánchez (2017).Las flores en la cocina veracruzana (in Spanish). Ciudad de México: Secretaría de Cultura.ISBN 978-607-745-787-9.
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