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Nouvelle cuisine

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Approach to food cooking and presentation
An example of nouvelle cuisine presentation

Nouvelle cuisine (French:[nuvɛlkɥizin]; 'new cuisine') is an approach to cooking and food presentation inFrench cuisine. In contrast tocuisine classique, an older form ofhaute cuisine, nouvelle cuisine is characterized by lighter, more delicate dishes and an increased emphasis onpresentation. It was popularized in the 1960s by the food criticHenri Gault, who coined the phrase, and his colleaguesAndré Gayot andChristian Millau in a new restaurant guide, theGault Millau, orLe Nouveau Guide.

History

[edit]
Menon,La nouvelle cuisine (1742)

The termnouvelle cuisine has been used several times in the history of French cuisine, to mark a clean break with the past.

In the 1730s and 1740s, several French writers emphasized their break with tradition, calling their cooking "modern" or "new".Vincent La Chapelle published hisCuisinier moderne in 1733–1735. The first volumes ofMenon'sNouveau traité de la cuisine was published in 1739. It was in 1742 that Menon introduced the termnouvelle cuisine as the title of the third volume of hisNouveau traité.[1]François Marin worked in the same tradition.[citation needed]

In the 1880s and 1890s, the cooking ofGeorges Auguste Escoffier was sometimes described with the term.[2]

AJacques Lameloise (a three-starMichelin Guide chef) nouvelle cuisine presentation

The modern usage is variously attributed to authorsHenri Gault,Christian Millau, andAndré Gayot,[3][4] who used nouvelle cuisine to describe the cooking ofPaul Bocuse,[5]Alain Chapel,Jean andPierre Troisgros,Michel Guérard,Roger Vergé, andRaymond Oliver, many of whom were once students ofFernand Point.[6] Paul Bocuse claimed that Gault first used the term to describe food prepared by Bocuse and other top chefs for the maiden flight of theConcorde airliner in 1969.[7]

The style Gault and Millau wrote about was a reaction to the Frenchcuisine classique placed into "orthodoxy" by Escoffier. Calling for greater simplicity and elegance in creating dishes, nouvelle cuisine is notcuisine minceur ('thin cooking'), which was created by Michel Guérard as spa food. It has been speculated that the outbreak ofWorld War II was a significant contributor to nouvelle cuisine's creation—the short supply of animal protein during the German occupation made it a natural development.[8]

The "formula"

[edit]
Scallop tangerinegastrique

Gault and Millau discovered the "formula" contained in ten characteristics of this new style of cooking. The ten characteristics identified were:[9]

  • A rejection of excessive complication in cooking.
  • Cooking times for most fish, seafood, game birds, veal, green vegetables, and pâtés were greatly reduced in an attempt to preserve their natural flavours. Steaming was an important trend from this characteristic.
  • The cuisine was made with the freshest possible ingredients.
  • Large menus were abandoned in favour of shorter menus.
  • Strong marinades for meat and game ceased to be used.
  • Heavy sauces such asespagnole andbéchamel were replaced by seasonings with fresh herbs, high-quality butter, lemon juice, and vinegar.
  • Regional dishes replacedcuisine classique as a source of inspiration.
  • New techniques were embraced and modern equipment was often used; Bocuse even used microwave ovens.
  • The chefs paid close attention to the dietary needs of their guests through their dishes.
  • The chefs were extremely inventive and created new combinations and pairings.[6]

Abandonment

[edit]

There is a standing debate as to whether nouvelle cuisine has been abandoned. Much of what it stood for—particularly its preference for lightly presented, fresh flavours—has been assimilated into mainstream restaurant cooking. By the mid-1980s, some food writers stated that the style of cuisine had reached exhaustion and many chefs began returning to thecuisine classique style of cooking, although much of the lighter presentations and new techniques remained.[6]

References

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  1. ^Philip Hyman and Mary Hyman, "Printing the Kitchen: French Cookbooks, 1480–1800", in Jean-Louis Flandrin and Massimo Montanari, eds.,Food: A Culinary History from Antiquity to the Present, 1999,ISBN 0231111541 (translation ofHistoire de l'alimentation, 1996), p. 398.
  2. ^Mennell, p. 163.
  3. ^André Gayot, "Of Stars andTripes: The True Story of Nouvelle Cuisine".
  4. ^"Stormy weather for Bahama Billy's". Monterey County Herald. January 10, 2008.
  5. ^Grimes, William (20 January 2018)."Paul Bocuse, Celebrated French Chef, Dies at 91".The New York Times. Retrieved20 January 2018.
  6. ^abcMennell, 163–164.
  7. ^France on a Plate,BBC Four, TV programme. 1 December 2008.
  8. ^Hewitt, 109–110.
  9. ^Gault&Millau,history of the companyArchived 2015-04-19 at theWayback Machine, see paragraph "Les 10 commandements de la nouvelle cuisine".

Sources

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  • Hewitt, Nicholas.The Cambridge Companion to Modern French Culture. Cambridge: The Cambridge University Press, 2003.ISBN 978-0-521-79465-7.
  • Mennel, Stephan.All Manners of Food: eating and taste in England and France from the Middle Ages to the present. 2nd ed., Chicago: University of Illinois Press, 1996.ISBN 978-0-252-06490-6.
  • Patrick Rambourg,Histoire de la cuisine et de la gastronomie françaises, Paris, Ed. Perrin (coll. tempus n° 359), 2010, 381 pages.ISBN 978-2-262-03318-7.

Further reading

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Wikimedia Commons has media related toNouvelle cuisine.
  • The Nouvelle Cuisine Cookbook: The Complete International Guide to the World of Nouvelle Cuisine by Armand Aulicino (1976).ISBN 0-448-14418-2.
  • The Nouvelle Cuisine of Jean and Pierre Troisgros by Jean and Pierre Troisgros (1977).ISBN 0-688-03331-8.
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