"Northern Areas" redirects here. For the wider geographical region in Pakistan, seeNorthern Pakistan. For the location in South Australia, seeNorthern Areas Council.
Region administered by Pakistan as an administrative territory
The region, together with Azad Kashmir in the southwest, is grouped and referred to by theUnited Nations and other international organisations as "Pakistan-administered Kashmir".[note 1]Gilgit-Baltistan is six times larger than Azad Kashmir in terms of geographical area.[17]
The territory of present-day Gilgit-Baltistan became a separate administrative unit in 1970 under the name "Northern Areas". It was formed by the amalgamation of the formerGilgit Agency, theBaltistan district, and several small formerprincely states, the largest of which wereHunza andNagar.[18] In 2009, the region was renamed "Gilgit-Baltistan" and granted limited autonomy through theSelf-Governance Order signed by then Pakistani presidentAsif Ali Zardari, a move that was reportedly intended to also empower the territory's people; however, scholars state that the real power rests with the governor and not with the chief minister or elected assembly.[19][20] Much of the population of Gilgit-Baltistan reportedly wants the territory to become integrated with Pakistan proper as a fifth province, and opposes integration with the rest of the Kashmir region.[21][22] The Pakistani government had rejected calls from the territory for provincial status on the grounds that granting such a request would jeopardise Pakistan's demands for the entire Kashmir conflict to be resolved according toall related United Nations resolutions.[23] However, in November 2020, Pakistani prime ministerImran Khan announced that Gilgit-Baltistan would attain provisional provincial status after the2020 Gilgit-Baltistan Assembly election.[24][25][26]
Gilgit-Baltistan covers an area of over 72,971 km2 (28,174 sq mi)[7] and is highly mountainous. It had an estimated population of 1.249 million people in 2013[27][28] (estimated to be 1.8 million in 2015 (Shahid Javed Burki (2015)). Its capital city isGilgit with an estimated population of 216,760. The economy is dominated byagriculture and thetourism industry.[29] The region is home to five of the 14eight-thousanders, includingK2, and has more than fifty mountain peaks above 7,000 metres (23,000 ft). Three of the world's longestglaciers outside ofEarth's polar regions are found in Gilgit-Baltistan. The main tourism activities aretrekking andmountaineering, and this industry has been growing in importance throughout the region.
Photograph ofKargah Buddha inGilgit; "The ancientStupa – rock carvings of Buddha, everywhere in the region, point to the firm hold ofBuddhism for such a long time."[30]
The rock carvings found in various places in Gilgit-Baltistan, especially in thePassu village ofHunza, suggest a human presence since 2000 BC.[31] Within the next few centuries of human settlement on theTibetan plateau, this region became inhabited by Tibetans, who preceded theBalti people ofBaltistan. Today Baltistan bears similarity toLadakh physically and culturally (although not in religion).Dards are found mainly in the western areas. These people are theShina-speaking peoples of Gilgit,Chilas,Astore andDiamir, while in Hunza and the upper regions,Burushaski andKhowar speakers predominate. The Dards find mention in the works ofHerodotus,[note 2]Nearchus,Megasthenes,Pliny,[note 3]Ptolemy,[note 4] and the geographical lists of thePuranas.[32] In the 1st century, the people of these regions were followers of the Bon religion while in the 2nd century, they practised Buddhism.
Between 399 and 414, the Chinese Buddhist pilgrimFaxian visited Gilgit-Baltistan.[33] In the 6th century Somana Palola (greater Gilgit-Chilas) was ruled by an unknown king. Between 627 and 645, the Chinese Buddhist pilgrimXuanzang travelled through this region on his pilgrimage to India.
According to Chinese records from theTang dynasty, between the 600s and the 700s, the region was governed by a Buddhist dynasty referred to asBolü (Chinese:勃律;pinyin:bólǜ), also transliterated asPalola,Patola,Balur.[34] They are believed to have been thePatola Shahis dynasty mentioned in aBrahmi inscription,[35] and devout adherents ofVajrayana Buddhism.[36] At the time, Little Palola (Chinese:小勃律) was used to refer to Gilgit, while Great Palola (Chinese:大勃律) was used to refer to Baltistan. However, the records do not consistently disambiguate the two.
Map ofTibetan Empire citing the areas of Gilgit-Baltistan as part of its kingdom in 780–790 CE
In mid-600s, Gilgit came under Chinese suzerainty after the fall of theWestern Turkic Khaganate toTang military campaigns in the region. In the late 600s CE, the risingTibetan Empire wrestled control of the region from the Chinese. However, faced with growing influence of theUmayyad Caliphate and then theAbbasid Caliphate to the west, the Tibetans were forced to ally themselves with the Islamic caliphates. The region was then contested by Chinese and Tibetan forces, and their respective vassal states, until the mid-700s.[37] Rulers of Gilgit formed an alliance with the Tang Chinese, and held back the Arabs with their help.[38]
Between 644 and 655,Navasurendrāditya-nandin became king of the Palola Sāhi dynasty in Gilgit.[39] Numerous Sanskrit inscriptions, including theDanyor Rock Inscriptions, were discovered to be from his reign.[40] In the late 600s and early 700s, Jayamaṅgalavikramāditya-nandin was king of Gilgit.[39]
According to Chinese court records, in 717 and 719 respectively, delegations of a ruler of Great Palola (Baltistan) named Su-fu-she-li-ji-li-ni (Chinese:蘇弗舍利支離泥;pinyin:sūfúshèlìzhīlíní) reached the Chinese imperial court.[41][42] By at least 719/720,Ladakh (Mard) became part of theTibetan Empire. By that time,Buddhism was practised inBaltistan, andSanskrit was the written language.
In 720, the delegation ofSurendrāditya (Chinese:蘇麟陀逸之;pinyin:sūlíntuóyìzhī) reached the Chinese imperial court. He was referred to in Chinese records as the king of Great Palola; however, it is unknown if Baltistan was under Gilgit rule at the time.[43] The Chinese emperor also granted the ruler of Cashmere, Chandrāpīḍa ("Tchen-fo-lo-pi-li"), the title of "King of Cashmere". By 721/722, Baltistan had come under the influence of the Tibetan Empire.[44]
In 721–722, the Tibetan army attempted but failed to capture Gilgit or Bruzha (Yasin Valley). By this time, according to Chinese records, the king of Little Palola was Mo-ching-mang (Chinese:沒謹忙;pinyin:méijǐnmáng). He had visited the Tang court requesting military assistance against the Tibetans.[43] Between 723 and 728, the Korean Buddhist pilgrimHyecho passed through this area. In 737/738, Tibetan troops under the leadership of MinisterBel Kyesang Dongtsab of EmperorMe Agtsom took control of Little Palola. By 747, the Chinese army under the leadership of the ethnic-Korean commanderGao Xianzhi had recaptured Little Palola.[45] Great Palola was subsequently captured by the Chinese army in 753 under military GovernorFeng Changqing. However, by 755, due to theAn Lushan rebellion, the Tang Chinese forces withdrew and were no longer able to exert influence inCentral Asia or in the regions around Gilgit-Baltistan.[46] The control of the region was left to the Tibetan Empire. They referred to the region as Bruzha, a toponym that is consistent with the ethnonym "Burusho" used today. Tibetan control of the region lasted until late-800s CE.[47]
In the 14th century, Sufi Muslim preachers from Persia and Central Asia introduced Islam in Baltistan. Famous amongst them wasMir Sayyid Ali Hamadani, who came throughKashmir[48] while in the Gilgit region Islam entered in the same century through TurkicTarkhan rulers. Gilgit-Baltistan was ruled by many local rulers, amongst whom theMaqpon dynasty ofSkardu and the Rajas ofHunza were famous. The Maqpons of Skardu unified Gilgit-Baltistan withChitral andLadakh, especially in the era ofAli Sher Khan Anchan[49] who had friendly relations with theMughal court.[50] Anchan's reign brought prosperity and entertained art, sport, and variety in architecture. He introduced polo to the Gilgit region, and sent a group of musicians from Chitral toDelhi to learnIndian music;Mughal architecture influenced the architecture of the region as well under his reign.[51] Later Anchan in his successors Abdal Khan had great influence though in the popular literature of Baltistan, where he is still alive as a dark figure by the nickname "Mizos", "man-eater". The last Maqpon Raja, Ahmed Shah, ruled all of Baltistan between 1811 and 1840. The areas of Gilgit, Chitral and Hunza had already become independent of the Maqpons.[citation needed]
Before the demise ofShribadat, a group ofShina people migrated from GilgitDardistan and settled in theDras and Kharmang areas. The descendants of thoseDardic people can be still found today, and are believed to have maintained their Dardic culture andShina language up to the present time.[citation needed]
Under Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir
The princely state ofJammu and Kashmir, (National Geographic, 1946). Shown are theGilgit Agency, consisting of subsidiary states of Jammu and Kashmir, and theGilgit wazarat, including the Gilgit Leased Area (shown in white).Baltistan was part of the large area of the Ladakh-Baltistan wazarat in the east.
In November 1839, Dogra commanderZorawar Singh, whose allegiance was toGulab Singh, started his campaign against Baltistan.[53] By 1840 he conquered Skardu and captured its ruler, Ahmad Shah. Ahmad Shah was then forced to accompany Zorawar Singh on his raid into Western Tibet. Meanwhile, Baghwan Singh was appointed as administrator (thanadar) in Skardu. But in the following year, Ali Khan ofRondu, Haidar Khan ofShigar and Daulat Ali Khan fromKhaplu led a successful uprising against the Dogras in Baltistan and captured the Dogra commander Baghwan Singh in Skardu.[54]
In 1842, Dogra Commander Wasir Lakhpat, with the active support of Ali Sher Khan (III) fromKartaksho, conquered Baltistan for the second time. There was a violent capture of the fortress ofKharphocho. Haidar Khan from Shigar, one of the leaders of the uprising against the Dogras,[55] was imprisoned and died in captivity. Gosaun was appointed as administrator (Thanadar) of Baltistan and till 1860, the entire region of Gilgit-Baltistan was under theSikhs and then theDogras.[56][57]
After the defeat of the Sikhs in theFirst Anglo-Sikh War, the region became a part of theJammu and Kashmir princely state, which since 1846 had remained under the rule of the Dogras. The population in Gilgit perceived itself as ethnically different from Kashmiris and disliked being ruled by the Kashmir state.[58] The region remained with the princely state, with temporary leases of some areas assigned to the British, until 1 November 1947.
First Kashmir War
After Pakistan's independence, Jammu and Kashmir initially remained an independent state. Later on 22 October 1947, tribal militias backed by Pakistan crossed the border into Jammu and Kashmir afterPoonch rebellion andJammu Muslim massacre.[59][60]Hari Singh made a plea to India for assistance and signed theInstrument of Accession, making his state a part of India. India air-lifted troops to defend the Kashmir Valley and the invaders were pushed back behindUri.
Gilgit's population did not favour the State's accession to India.[61] The Muslims of thefrontier ilaqas (Gilgit and the adjoining hill states) had wanted to join Pakistan.[62] Sensing their discontent, MajorWilliam Brown, the Maharaja's commander of theGilgit Scouts, mutinied on 1 November 1947,overthrowing the governor Ghansara Singh. The bloodlesscoup d'état was planned by Brown to the last detail under the code name "Datta Khel", which was also joined by a rebellious section of theJammu and Kashmir State Forces underMirza Hassan Khan. Brown ensured that the treasury was secured and minorities were protected. A provisional government (Aburi Hakoomat) was established by the Gilgit locals with Raja Shah Rais Khan as the president and Mirza Hassan Khan as the commander-in-chief. However, Major Brown had already telegraphedKhan Abdul Qayyum Khan asking Pakistan to take over. Pakistan's political agent, Khan Mohammad Alam Khan, arrived on 16 November and took over the administration of Gilgit.[63][64] Brown outmaneuvered the pro-Independence group and secured the approval of the mirs and rajas for accession to Pakistan.[65] According to Brown,
Alam replied [to the locals], "you are a crowd of fools led astray by a madman. I shall not tolerate this nonsense for one instance... And when the Indian Army starts invading you there will be no use screaming to Pakistan for help, because you won't get it."... The provisional government faded away after this encounter with Alam Khan, clearly reflecting the flimsy and opportunistic nature of its basis and support.[66]
The provisional government lasted 16 days. According to scholar Yaqub Khan Bangash, it lacked sway over the population. The Gilgit rebellion did not have civilian involvement and was solely the work of military leaders, not all of whom had been in favour of joining Pakistan, at least in the short term. HistorianAhmed Hasan Dani says that although there had been a lack of public participation in the rebellion, pro-Pakistan sentiments were intense in the civilian population and their anti-Kashmiri sentiments were also clear.[67] According to various scholars, the people of Gilgit as well as those of Chilas,Koh Ghizr,Ishkoman,Yasin,Punial, Hunza andNagar joined Pakistan by choice.[68][69][70][71][72]
After taking control of Gilgit, the Gilgit Scouts along with Azad irregulars moved towardsBaltistan andLadakh and capturedSkardu by May 1948. They successfully blocked Indian reinforcements sent to relieve Skardu, and proceeded towardsKargil andLeh. Indian forces mounted an offensive in the autumn of 1948 to push them back from Ladakh, but Baltistan came into the rebels' territory.[73][74]
On 1 January 1948, India took the issue of Jammu and Kashmir to theUnited Nations Security Council. In April 1948, the Council passed a resolution calling for Pakistan to withdraw from all of Jammu and Kashmir and for India to reduce its forces to the minimum level, following which a plebiscite would be held to ascertain the people's wishes.[75] However, no withdrawal was ever carried out. India insisted that Pakistan had to withdraw first and Pakistan contended there was no guarantee that India would withdraw afterwards.[76] Gilgit-Baltistan, along with the western districts that came to be calledAzad Kashmir, have remained under the control of Pakistan ever since.[77]
Inside Pakistan
While the residents of Gilgit-Baltistan expressed a desire to join Pakistan after gaining independence from MaharajaHari Singh, Pakistan declined to merge the region into itself because of the territory's link toJammu and Kashmir.[71] For a short period after joining Pakistan, Gilgit-Baltistan was governed by Azad Kashmir if only "theoretically, but not practically" through its claim of being an alternative government for Jammu and Kashmir.[78] In 1949, the Government of Azad Kashmir handed over the administration of Gilgit-Baltistan to the federal government under theKarachi Agreement. According to Indian journalist Paul Sahni, this is seen as an effort by Pakistan to legitimise its rule over Gilgit-Baltistan.[79]
According to Pakistani analyst Ershad Mahmud, there were two reasons why administration was transferred from Azad Kashmir to Pakistan:
the region was inaccessible from Azad Kashmir, and
because both the governments of Azad Kashmir and Pakistan knew that the people of the region were in favour of joining Pakistan in a potential referendum over Kashmir's final status.[71]
According to theInternational Crisis Group, the Karachi Agreement is highly unpopular in Gilgit-Baltistan because Gilgit-Baltistan was not a party to it even while it was its own fate was being decided.[80]
From then until the 1990s, Gilgit-Baltistan was governed through the colonial-eraFrontier Crimes Regulations, which were originally created for thenorthwest tribal regions. They treated tribal people as "barbaric and uncivilised," levying collective fines and punishments.[81][82] People had no right to legal representation or appeal.[83][82] Members of tribes had to obtain prior permission from the police to travel anywhere, and had to keep the police informed about their movements.[84][85] There was no democratic set-up during this period. All political and judicial powers remained in the hands of theMinistry of Kashmir Affairs and Northern Areas (KANA). The people of Gilgit-Baltistan were deprived of rights enjoyed by citizens of Pakistan and Azad Kashmir.[86]
A primary reason for this state of affairs was the remoteness of Gilgit-Baltistan. Another factor was that the whole of Pakistan itself was deficient in democratic norms and principles, therefore the federal government did not prioritise democratic development in the region. There was also a lack of public pressure as an active civil society was absent in the region, with young educated residents usually opting to live in Pakistan's urban centers instead of staying in the region.[86]
Northern Areas
In 1970 the two parts of the territory, viz., theGilgit Agency andBaltistan, were merged into a single administrative unit, and given the name "Northern Areas".[87][failed verification] TheShaksgam tract was ceded by Pakistan to China following the signing of theSino-Pakistani Frontier Agreement in 1963.[88][89] In 1969, a Northern Areas Advisory Council (NAAC) was created, later renamed to Northern Areas Council (NAC) in 1974 and Northern Areas Legislative Council (NALC) in 1994. But it was devoid of legislative powers. All law-making was concentrated in the KANA Ministry of Pakistan. In 1994, a Legal Framework Order (LFO) was created by the KANA Ministry to serve as thede facto constitution for the region.[90][91]
In 1974, the former State Subject law was abolished in Gilgit Baltistan, and Pakistanis from other areas could buy land and settle.[92]
In 1984 the territory's importance shot up within Pakistan with the opening of theKarakoram Highway and the region's population became more connected to mainland Pakistan. The improved connectivity facilitated the local population to avail itself of educational opportunities in the rest of Pakistan.[93] Italso allowed the political parties of Pakistan and Azad Kashmir to set up local branches, raise political awareness in the region. According to Ershad Mahmud, these Pakistani political parties have played a 'laudable role' in organising a movement for democratic rights among the residents of Gilgit-Baltistan.[86]
In the late 1990s, the President of Al-Jihad Trust filed a petition in the Supreme Court of Pakistan to determine the legal status of Gilgit-Baltistan. In its judgement of 28 May 1999, the Court directed the Government of Pakistan to ensure the provision of equal rights to the people of Gilgit-Baltistan, and gave it six months to do so. Following the Supreme Court decision, the government took several steps to devolve power to the local level. However, in several policy circles, the point was raised that the Pakistani government was helpless to comply with the court verdict because of the strong political and sectarian divisions in Gilgit-Baltistan and also because of the territory's historical connection with the still disputed Kashmir region, and that this prevented the determination of Gilgit-Baltistan's real status.[95]
A position of 'Deputy Chief Executive' was created to act as the local administrator, but the real powers still rested with the 'Chief Executive', who was the Federal Minister of KANA. "The secretaries were more powerful than the concerned advisors," in the words of one commentator. In spite of various reforms packages over the years, the situation is essentially unchanged.[96] Meanwhile, public rage in Gilgit-Baltistan "[grew] alarmingly." Prominent "antagonist groups" have mushroomed protesting the absence of civic rights and democracy.[97] The Pakistani government has debated granting provincial status to Gilgit-Baltistan.[98]Gilgit-Baltistan has been a member state of theUnrepresented Nations and Peoples Organization since 2008.[99]According to Antia Mato Bouzas, the PPP-led Pakistani government has attempted a compromise through its 2009 reforms between its traditional stand on the Kashmir dispute and the demands of locals, most of whom may have pro-Pakistan sentiments. While the 2009 reforms have added to the self-identification of the region, they have not resolved the constitutional status of the region within Pakistan.[100]
According to 2010 news reports, the people of Gilgit-Baltistan want to merge into Pakistan as a separate fifth province.[21][22] However, as of 2015 leaders ofAzad Kashmir were opposed to any step towards integrating Gilgit-Baltistan into Pakistan.[101] The people of Gilgit-Baltistan have opposed integration with Azad Kashmir. They desire Pakistani citizenship and a constitutional status for their region.[21][22]
In 2016, for the first time in the country's Constitution, Gilgit-Baltistan had been mentioned by name.[102]
In September 2020, it was reported that Pakistan decided to elevate Gilgit-Baltistan's status to that of a full-fledged province.[103][104]
The territory of present-day Gilgit-Baltistan became a separate administrative unit in 1970 under the name "Northern Areas". It was formed by the amalgamation of the formerGilgit Agency, theBaltistan District of the Ladakh Wazarat and the hill states ofHunza andNagar. It presently consists of fourteen districts,[10][105] has a population approaching one million and an area of approximately 73,000 square kilometres (28,000 square miles), and shares borders with Pakistan, China, Afghanistan, and India. In 1993, an attempt was made by the High Court ofAzad Jammu and Kashmir to annexe Gilgit-Baltistan but was quashed by theSupreme Court of Pakistan after protests by the locals of Gilgit-Baltistan, who feared domination by the Kashmiris.[23]
Government of Pakistan abolished State Subject Rule in Gilgit-Baltistan in 1974, which resulted in demographic changes in the territory.[106][107] While administratively controlled by Pakistan since theFirst Kashmir War, Gilgit-Baltistan has never been formally integrated into the Pakistani state and does not participate in Pakistan's constitutional political affairs.[108][109] On 29 August 2009, the Gilgit-Baltistan Empowerment and Self-Governance Order 2009, was passed by the Pakistani cabinet and later signed by the thenPresident of PakistanAsif Ali Zardari.[110] The order granted self-rule to the people of Gilgit-Baltistan, by creating, among other things, an electedGilgit-Baltistan Legislative Assembly andGilgit-Baltistan Council. Gilgit-Baltistan thus gained ade facto province-like status without constitutionally becoming part of Pakistan.[108][111] Currently, Gilgit-Baltistan is neither a province nor a state. It has a semi-provincial status.[112] Traditionally, the Pakistani government had rejected Gilgit-Baltistani calls for integration with Pakistan on the grounds that it would jeopardise its demands for the wholeKashmir issue to be resolved according to UN resolutions.[23] However, since Imran Khan announced that it would be grantedprovisional provincial status, thePakistani political parties finally agree to pass constitutional amendment to propose Gilgit-Baltistan as a province.[113][114] Some Kashmiri nationalist groups, such as theJammu and Kashmir Liberation Front, claim Gilgit-Baltistan as part of a future independent state to match what existed in 1947.[23] India, on the other hand, maintains that Gilgit-Baltistan is a part of the former princely state ofJammu and Kashmir that is "an integral part of the country [India]."[115]
Regions
Gilgit-Baltistan is administered as three divisionsFourteen districts in 2019
Gilgit-Baltistan is administratively divided into three divisions: Baltistan, Diamer and Gilgit,[116] which, in turn, are divided into fourteen districts.The principal administrative centers are the towns ofGilgit andSkardu.
* Combined population of Skardu, Shigar, Kharmang and Roundu districts. Shigar and Kharmang Districts were carved out of Skardu District after 1998. The estimated population of Gilgit-Baltistan was about 1.8 million in 2015[18] and the overall population growth rate between 1998 and 2011 was 63.1% making it 4.85% annually.[119][120]
Security
Security in Gilgit-Baltistan is provided by the Gilgit-Baltistan Police, theGilgit Baltistan Scouts (a paramilitary force), and theNorthern Light Infantry (part of the Pakistani Army).
TheGilgit-Baltistan Police (GBP) is responsible for law enforcement in Gilgit-Baltistan. The mission of the force is the prevention and detection of crime, maintenance of law and order and enforcement of the Constitution of Pakistan.
Gilgit-Baltistan is home to all five of Pakistan's "eight-thousanders" and to more than fifty peaks above 7,000 metres (23,000 ft).Gilgit andSkardu are the two main hubs for expeditions to those mountains. The region is home to some of the world'shighest mountain ranges. The main ranges are theKarakoram and the westernHimalayas. ThePamir Mountains are to the north, and theHindu Kush lies to the west. Amongst the highest mountains areK2 (Mount Godwin-Austen) andNanga Parbat, the latter being one of the most feared mountains in the world.
Three of the world's longestglaciers outside the polar regions are found in Gilgit-Baltistan: theBiafo Glacier, theBaltoro Glacier, and theBatura Glacier. There are, in addition, several high-altitude lakes in Gilgit-Baltistan:
TheDeosai Plains are located above the tree line and constitute the second-highest plateau in the world afterTibet, at 4,115 metres (13,501 ft). The plateau lies east of Astore, south ofSkardu and west ofLadakh. The area was declared as anational park in 1993. The Deosai Plains cover an area of almost 5,000 square kilometres (1,900 sq mi). For over half the year (between September and May), Deosai is snow-bound and cut off from rest of Astore and Baltistan in winters. The village of Deosai lies close to Chilum chokki and is connected with the Kargil district of Ladakh through an all-weather road.
There are more than 50,000 pieces of rock art (petroglyphs) and inscriptions all along theKarakoram Highway in Gilgit-Baltistan, concentrated at ten major sites betweenHunza andShatial. The carvings were left by invaders, traders, andpilgrims who passed along the trade route, as well as by locals. The earliest date back to between 5000 and 1000BCE, showing single animals, triangular men and hunting scenes in which the animals are larger than the hunters. Thesecarvings were pecked into the rock with stone tools and are covered with a thickpatina that proves their age.
TheethnologistKarl Jettmar [de] has pieced together the history of the area from inscriptions and recorded his findings inRock Carvings and Inscriptions in the Northern Areas of Pakistan[121] and the later-releasedBetween Gandhara and the Silk Roads — Rock Carvings Along the Karakoram Highway.[122] Many of these carvings and inscriptions will be inundated and/or destroyed when the plannedBasha-Diamir dam is built and theKarakoram Highway is widened.
Climate
Mountains covered in snow, as seen from the Raja Bazar Road GilgitGlacier in Gilgit Baltistan
The climate of Gilgit-Baltistan varies from region to region, since the surrounding mountain ranges create sharp variations in weather. The eastern part has the moist zone of the western Himalayas, but going towardKarakoram andHindu Kush, the climate gets considerably drier.[123]
There are towns likeGilgit andChilas that are very hot during the day in summer yet cold at night and valleys likeAstore,Khaplu,Yasin,Hunza, andNagar, where the temperatures are cold even in summer.[124]
Climate change has adversely effected this region with more rains every year. On 26 August 2022, most villages in Ghizer district and Hunza were severely effected by the ongoing flooding displacing many people.
The economy of the region is primarily based on a traditional trade route, the historicSilk Road. The China Trade Organization forum led the people of the area to actively invest and learn modern trade know-how from their Chinese neighbour,Xinjiang.[citation needed] Later, the establishment of a chamber of commerce and theSustdry port inGojal Hunza are milestones. The rest of the economy is shouldered by mainly agriculture and tourism. Agricultural products are wheat, corn (maize), barley, and fruits. Tourism is mostly in trekking andmountaineering, and this industry is growing in importance.[125][126] As of August 2021[update], the gross state product (GSP) nominal of Gilgit-Baltistan was $2.5 billion and GSP (nominal) per capita of Gilgit-Baltistan was $1,748.[127] GSP purchasing power parity (PPP) of Gilgit-Baltistan was $10 billion and GSP (PPP) per capita of GB was $6,028.[127]
In early September 2009,Pakistan signed an agreement with thePeople's Republic of China for a major energy project in Gilgit-Baltistan which includes the construction of a 7,000-megawatt dam atBunji in theAstore District.[111] TheChina–Pakistan Economic Corridor connects Xinjiang and the hinterland of Pakistan through Gilgit-Baltistan, and the Government of Pakistan hopes that residents of Gilgit-Baltistan will benefit from CPEC and other development projects.[104][128]
Mountaineering
View ofLaila Peak, which is located nearHushe Valley (a town inKhaplu)TheTrango Towers offer some of the largestcliffs and most challengingrock climbing in the world, and every year a number of expeditions from all corners of the globe visit Karakoram to climb the challenging granite.[129]
Gilgit-Baltistan is home to more than 20 peaks of over 6,100 metres (20,000 ft), including K-2 the second highest mountain on Earth.[130] Other well known peaks includeMasherbrum (also known as K1),Broad Peak,Hidden Peak,Gasherbrum II,Gasherbrum IV, andChogolisa, situated inKhaplu Valley. The following peaks have so far been scaled by various expeditions:
Sui Northern Gas Pipelines Limited LPG Air Mix Plant in Gilgit
Gilgit has not received a gas pipeline infrastructure since Pakistan's independence, unlike other cities. Through the importation of gas cylinders from other provinces, many private gas contractors offer gas cylinders. The LPG (Liquefied Petroleum Gas) Air Mix Plant project by Sui Northern Gas Pipelines Limited was unveiled in 2020 with the goal of bringing the gas facility to Gilgit. This will significantly reduce deforestation as public uses wood from trees for heating and lighting purpose. The first head office has been built in Gilgit City.[131]
Gilgit Baltistan is the capital of tourism inPakistan. Gilgit Baltistan is home to some of the highest peaks in the world, includingK2 the second highest peak in the world. Gilgit Baltistan's landscape includes mountains, lakes, glaciers and valleys. Gilgit Baltistan is not only known for its mountains — it is also visited for its landmarks, culture, history and people.[132] K2 Basecamp,Deosai,Naltar,Fairy MeadowsBagrot Valley andHushe valley are common places to visit in Gilgit Baltistan.[133]
TheKarakoram HighwayNational Highway N-15 has abrupt direction changes which is a challenge for drivers who use this route to reach Gilgit
Before 1978, Gilgit-Baltistan was cut off from the rest of the Pakistan and the world due to the harsh terrain and the lack of accessible roads. All of the roads to the south opened toward the Pakistan-administered state ofAzad Kashmir and to the southeast toward the present-day Indian-administered Jammu and Kashmir. During the summer, people could walk across the mountain passes to travel toRawalpindi. The fastest way to travel was by air, but air travel was accessible only to a few privileged local people and to Pakistani military and civilian officials. Then, with the assistance of the Chinese government, Pakistan began construction of the Karakoram Highway (KKH), which was completed in 1978. The journey fromRawalpindi /Islamabad to Gilgit takes approximately 20 to 24 hours.
TheKarakoram Highway connectsIslamabad toGilgit andSkardu, which are the two major hubs for mountaineering expeditions in Gilgit-Baltistan.Northern Areas Transport Corporation (NATCO) offers bus and jeep transport service to the two hubs and several other popular destinations, lakes, and glaciers in the area. Landslides on the Karakoram Highway are very common. The Karakoram Highway connects Gilgit toTashkurgan Town, Kashgar, China viaSust, the customs and health-inspection post on the Gilgit-Baltistan side, and theKhunjerab Pass, the highest paved international border crossing in the world at 4,693 metres (15,397 ft).
In March 2006, the respective governments announced that, commencing on 1 June 2006, a thrice-weekly bus service would begin across the boundary from Gilgit to Kashgar and road-widening work would begin at 600 kilometres (370 mi) of the Karakoram Highway. There would also be one daily bus in each direction between the Sust and Taxkorgan border areas of the two political entities.[134]
ATR 42–500 on Gilgit Airport. Picture taken on 10 July 2016
Pakistan International Airlines used to fly aFokker F27 Friendship daily betweenGilgit Airport andBenazir Bhutto International Airport. The flying time was approximately 50 minutes, and the flight was one of the most scenic in the world, as its route passed overNanga Parbat, a mountain whose peak is higher than the aircraft's cruising altitude. However, the Fokker F27 was retired after a crash atMultan in 2006. Currently, flights are being operated by PIA to Gilgit on the brand-newATR 42–500, which was purchased in 2006. With the new plane, the cancellation of flights is much less frequent. Pakistan International Airlines also offers regular flights of aBoeing 737 between Skardu and Islamabad. All flights are subject to weather clearance; in winter, flights are often delayed by several days.
A railway through the region has been proposed; seeKhunjerab Railway for details.
Demographics
Population
The population of Gilgit Baltistan is 1,492,924 as of 2017.[135] The estimated population of Gilgit-Baltistan in 2013 was 1.249 million,[27][28] and it was 873,000 in 1998.[136] Approximately 14% of the population was urban.[137] The fertility rate is 4.7 children per woman, which is the highest in Pakistan.[138]
The population of Gilgit-Baltistan consists of many diverse linguistic, ethnic, and religious sects, due in part to the many isolated valleys separated by some of the world's highest mountains. The ethnic groups includeShins,Yashkuns, Kashmiris, Kashgaris, Pamiris, Pathans, and Kohistanis.[139] A significant number of people from Gilgit-Baltistan are residing in other parts of Pakistan, mainly in Punjab andKarachi. The literacy rate of Gilgit-Baltistan is approximately 72%.
Gilgit-Baltistan is a multilingual region whereUrdu being a national and official language serves as thelingua franca for inter ethnic communications. English is co-official and also used in education, while Arabic is used for religious purposes. The table below shows a break-up of Gilgit-Baltistan first-language speakers.
It is spoken by the majority in fivetehsils (Skardu/Shigar, Kharmang, Gultari, Khaplu and Mashabrum). It is from the Tibetan language family and has Urdu borrowings.
It is spoken by the majority in fourtehsils (Nagar 1, Hunza/Aliabad, Nagar II, and Yasin). It is alanguage isolate that has borrowed considerable Urdu vocabulary.
It is spoken by the majority in twotehsils (Gupis and Ishkomen) but also spoken in Yasin and Puniyal/Gahkuch Tehsils. Like Shina, it is a Dardic language.
It is spoken by the majority of people in Gojal Tehsil of Hunza. But it is also spoken in the Yasin and Ishkomen tehsils ofGupis-Yasin andGhizer districts. It is classified as eastern Iranian/ Pamiri language.
Unranked
Others
Pashto,Kashmiri,Domaaki (spoken by musician clans in the region) andGojri languages are also spoken by a significant population of the region.
Religion
A pie chart showing the Sectarian divide of Gilgit-Baltistan
The population of Gilgit-Baltistan is entirelyMuslim and is denominationally the most diverse in the country. The region is also the only Shia-plurality area in an otherwise Sunni-dominant Pakistan.[149] People in the Skardu district are mostly Shia, while Diamir and Astore districts have Sunni majorities. Ghanche has aNoorbakhshi population, and Ghizar has anIsmaili majority.[150] The populations in Gilgit, Hunza and Nagar districts are composed of a mix of all of these sects.[148] Recent surveys show that Shia Ismaili women, both rural and urban, have high rates of contraceptives usage and low fertility rates; by contrast Sunni women, especially in rural areas, have low rates of contraceptive usage and high fertility rates.[151]
"Mostly the architecture have been influenced byTibetan Architecture as the above images are testimonials of it."[30]
Dance of Swati Guests with traditional music atBaltit Fort in 2014Wakhi musicians inGulmit.One of the region's popular dishes is Chapchor. It is widely made in the Nagar and Hunza Valley
Gilgit-Baltistan is home to diversified cultures, ethnic groups, languages and backgrounds.[158] Major cultural events include the Shandoor Polo Festival, Babusar Polo Festival and Jashn-e-Baharan or the Harvest Time Festival (Navroz).[158] Traditional dances include:Old Man Dance in which more than one person wears old-style dresses;Cow Boy Dance (Payaloo) in which a person wears old style dress, long leather shoes and holds a stick in hand and theSword Dance in which the participants show taking one sword in right and shield in left. One to six participants can dance in pairs.
Many types of sports are in currency, throughout the region, but most popular of them isPolo.[159][160] Almost every bigger valley has a polo ground, polo matches in such grounds attract locals as well as foreigners visitors during summer season. One of such polo tournament is held inShandur each year and polo teams of Gilgit with Chitral participates.[161] Though very internationally unlikely, but even for some local historians like Hassan Hasrat from Skardu and for some national writers likeAhmed Hasan Dani it was originated in same region.[162] For testimonies, they present theEpic of King Gesar of balti version where king gesar started polo by killing his step son and hit head of cadaver with a stick thus started the game[163] they also held that the very simple rules of local polo game also testifies its primitiveness. The English wordPolo hasBalti origin, that is spoken in same region, dates back to the 19th century which means ball.[164][165]
Other popular sports arefootball,cricket,volleyball (mostly play in winters) and other minor local sports. with growing facilities and particular local geography Climbing, trekking and other similar sports are also getting popularity.Samina Baig from Hunza valley is the onlyPakistani woman and the third Pakistani to climbMount Everest and also the youngestMuslim woman to climb Everest, having done so at the age of 21 whileHassan Sadpara fromSkardu valley is the first Pakistani to have climbed sixeight-thousanders including the world's highest peakEverest (8848 m) besidesK2 (8611 m),Gasherbrum I (8080 m),Gasherbrum II (8034 m),Nanga Parbat (8126 m),Broad Peak (8051 m).
Notable people
Amen Aamir, first woman from Gilgit-Baltistan to qualify as a pilot
^TheIndian government and Indian sources refer to Azad Kashmir and Gilgit-Baltistan as "Pakistan-occupied Kashmir" ("PoK")[13] or "Pakistan-held Kashmir" ("PhK").[14] Sometimes Azad Kashmir alone is meant by these terms.[13]"Pakistan-administered Kashmir" and "Pakistan-controlled Kashmir"[15][16]are used by neutral sources. Conversely, Pakistani sources refer to the territories under Indian control as "Indian-occupied Kashmir" ("IoK") or "Indian-held Kashmir" ("IhK").[13]
^He twice mentions a people calledDadikai, first along with theGandarioi, and again in the catalogue of kingXerxes's army invading Greece. Herodotus also mentions the gold-digging ants of Central Asia.
^In the 1st century, Pliny repeats that the Dards were great producers of gold.
^Ptolemy situates theDaradrai on the upper reaches of the Indus
^abThe application of the term "administered" to the various regions ofKashmir and a mention of the Kashmir dispute is supported by thetertiary sources (a) through (e), reflectingdue weight in the coverage. Although "controlled" and "held" are also applied neutrally to the names of the disputants or to the regions administered by them, as evidenced in sources (h) through (i) below, "held" is also considered politicised usage, as is the term "occupied," (see (j) below). (a)Kashmir, region Indian subcontinent, Encyclopaedia Britannica,archived from the original on 13 August 2019, retrieved15 August 2019 (subscription required) Quote: "Kashmir, region of the northwestern Indian subcontinent ... has been the subject of dispute between India and Pakistan since the partition of the Indian subcontinent in 1947. The northern and western portions are administered by Pakistan and comprise three areas: Azad Kashmir, Gilgit, and Baltistan, the last two being part of a territory called the Northern Areas. Administered by India are the southern and southeastern portions, which constitute the state of Jammu and Kashmir but are slated to be split into two union territories."; (b)Pletcher, Kenneth,Aksai Chin, Plateau Region, Asia, Encyclopaedia Britannica,archived from the original on 2 April 2019, retrieved16 August 2019 (subscription required) Quote: "Aksai Chin, Chinese (Pinyin) Aksayqin, portion of the Kashmir region, at the northernmost extent of the Indian subcontinent in south-central Asia. It constitutes nearly all the territory of the Chinese-administered sector of Kashmir that is claimed by India to be part of the Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir state."; (c)"Kashmir",Encyclopedia Americana, Scholastic Library Publishing, 2006, p. 328,ISBN978-0-7172-0139-6,archived from the original on 17 January 2023, retrieved6 November 2019 C. E Bosworth, University of Manchester Quote: "KASHMIR, kash'mer, the northernmost region of the Indian subcontinent, administered partly by India, partly by Pakistan, and partly by China. The region has been the subject of a bitter dispute between India and Pakistan since they became independent in 1947"; (d)Osmańczyk, Edmund Jan (2003),Encyclopedia of the United Nations and International Agreements: G to M, Taylor & Francis, pp. 1191–,ISBN978-0-415-93922-5,archived from the original on 17 January 2023, retrieved12 June 2023 Quote: "Jammu and Kashmir: Territory in northwestern India, subject to a dispute between India and Pakistan. It has borders with Pakistan and China." (e)Talbot, Ian (2016),A History of Modern South Asia: Politics, States, Diasporas, Yale University Press, pp. 28–29,ISBN978-0-300-19694-8 Quote: "We move from a disputed international border to a dotted line on the map that represents a military border not recognized in international law. The line of control separates the Indian and Pakistani administered areas of the former Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir."; (f)Skutsch, Carl (2015) [2007], "China: Border War with India, 1962", in Ciment, James (ed.),Encyclopedia of Conflicts Since World War II (2nd ed.), London and New York: Routledge, p. 573,ISBN978-0-7656-8005-1,The situation between the two nations was complicated by the 1957–1959 uprising by Tibetans against Chinese rule. Refugees poured across the Indian border, and the Indian public was outraged. Any compromise with China on the border issue became impossible. Similarly, China was offended that India had given political asylum to the Dalai Lama when he fled across the border in March 1959. In late 1959, there were shots fired between border patrols operating along both the ill-defined McMahon Line and in the Aksai Chin. (g)Clary, Christopher (2022),The Difficult Politics of Peace: Rivalry in Modern South Asia, Oxford and New York: Oxford University Press, p. 109,ISBN9780197638408,Territorial Dispute: The situation along the Sino-Indian frontier continued to worsen. In late July (1959), an Indian reconnaissance patrol was blocked, "apprehended," and eventually expelled after three weeks in custody at the hands of a larger Chinese force near Khurnak Fort in Aksai Chin. ... Circumstances worsened further in October 1959, when a major class at Kongka Pass in eastern Ladakh led to nine dead and ten captured Indian border personnel, making it by far the most serious Sino-Indian class since India's independence. (h)Bose, Sumantra (2009),Kashmir: Roots of Conflict, Paths to Peace, Harvard University Press, pp. 294, 291, 293,ISBN978-0-674-02855-5 Quote: "J&K: Jammu and Kashmir. The former princely state that is the subject of the Kashmir dispute. Besides IJK (Indian-controlled Jammu and Kashmir. The larger and more populous part of the former princely state. It has a population of slightly over 10 million, and comprises three regions: Kashmir Valley, Jammu, and Ladakh.) and AJK ('Azad" (Free) Jammu and Kashmir. The more populous part of Pakistani-controlled J&K, with a population of approximately 2.5 million.), it includes the sparsely populated "Northern Areas" of Gilgit and Baltistan, remote mountainous regions which are directly administered, unlike AJK, by the Pakistani central authorities, and some high-altitude uninhabitable tracts under Chinese control." (i)Fisher, Michael H. (2018),An Environmental History of India: From Earliest Times to the Twenty-First Century, Cambridge University Press, p. 166,ISBN978-1-107-11162-2 Quote: "Kashmir's identity remains hotly disputed with a UN-supervised "Line of Control" still separating Pakistani-held Azad ("Free") Kashmir from Indian-held Kashmir."; (j)Snedden, Christopher (2015),Understanding Kashmir and Kashmiris, Oxford University Press, p. 10,ISBN978-1-84904-621-3 Quote:"Some politicised terms also are used to describe parts of J&K. These terms include the words 'occupied' and 'held'."
^Sökefeld, Martin (2015),"At the margins of Pakistan: Political relationships between Gilgit-Baltistan and Azad Jammu and Kashmir", in Ravi Kalia (ed.),Pakistan's Political Labyrinths: Military, Society and Terror, Routledge, p. 177,ISBN978-1-317-40544-3: "While AJK formally possesses most of the government institutions of a state, GB now formally has the institutions of a Pakistani province. However, AJK remains a quasi-state and GB a quasi-province because neither territory enjoys the full rights and powers connected with the respective political formations. In both areas, Pakistan retains ultimate control."
^Sering, Senge H. (2010), "Constitutional Impasse in Gilgit-Baltistan (Jammu and Kashmir): The Fallout",Strategic Analysis,34 (3):354–358,doi:10.1080/09700161003658998,ISSN0970-0161,S2CID154847994,Instead of the chief minister, the order rests all administrative, political and judicial authority with the governor, which makes him the supreme authority and portrays the assembly as a toothless tiger. At best, the order legitimises Pakistan's occupation and claims political rights for the locals without changing the power equation.
^abcSingh, Pallavi (29 April 2010)."Gilgit-Baltistan: A question of autonomy".The Indian Express.Archived from the original on 20 March 2017. Retrieved27 December 2016.But it falls short of the main demand of the people of Gilgit- Baltistan for a constitutional status to the region as a fifth province and for Pakistani citizenship to its people.
^abcShigri, Manzar (12 November 2009)."Pakistan's disputed Northern Areas go to polls".Reuters.Archived from the original on 28 June 2021. Retrieved27 December 2016.Many of the 1.5 million people of Gilgit-Baltistan oppose integration into Kashmir and want their area to be merged into Pakistan and declared a separate province.
^"Fifth province".Fifth province | The Express Tribune. The Express Tribune. 2 November 2020.Archived from the original on 9 November 2020. Retrieved14 November 2020.
^Bangash 2010, p. 128: [Ghansara Singh] wrote to the prime minister of Kashmir: 'in case the State accedes to the Indian Union, the Gilgit province will go to Pakistan', but no action was taken on it, and in fact Srinagar never replied to any of his messages.
^Snedden 2013, p. 14, "Similarly, Muslims in Western Jammu Province, particularly in Poonch, many of whom had martial capabilities, and Muslims in the Frontier Districts Province strongly wanted Jammu and Kashmir to join Pakistan."
^Bangash, Yaqoob Khan (9 January 2016)."Gilgit-Baltistan—part of Pakistan by choice".The Express Tribune.Archived from the original on 1 November 2016. Retrieved5 January 2017.Nearly 70 years ago, the people of the Gilgit Wazarat revolted and joined Pakistan of their own free will, as did those belonging to the territories of Chilas, Koh Ghizr, Ishkoman, Yasin and Punial; the princely states of Hunza and Nagar also acceded to Pakistan. Hence, the time has come to acknowledge and respect their choice of being full-fledged citizens of Pakistan.
^Levy & Scott-Clark, Deception (2010), Chapter 13: "Undaunted, Musharraf had in 1988 been called on by General Beg to put down a Shia riot in Gilgit, in the north of Pakistan. Rather than get the Pakistan army bloodied, he inducted a tribal band of Pashtun and Sunni irregulars, many from the SSP which had recently put out a contract on Bhutto, led by the mercenary Osama bin Laden (who had been hired by Hamid Gul to do the same four years earlier)."
^Naqash, Tariq (9 July 2015)."AJK opposes giving provincial status to GB".Dawn.Archived from the original on 13 February 2017. Retrieved27 December 2016.MUZAFFARABAD: Azad Jammu and Kashmir (AJK) Prime Minister Chaudhry Abdul Majeed warned the federal government on Wednesday against any attempt to convert Gilgit-Baltistan into a province of Pakistan.
^Masica, Colin P. (1993),The Indo-Aryan Languages, Cambridge University Press,ISBN978-0-521-29944-2,... he agreed with Grierson in seeing Rajasthani influence on Pahari and 'Dardic' influence on (or under) the whole Northwestern group + Pahari [...] Sindhi and including 'Lahnda', Dardic, Romany and West Pahari, there has been a tendency to transfer of 'r' from medial clusters to a position after the initial consonant ...
^Munshi, S. (2008), Keith Brown; Sarah Ogilvie (eds.),Concise encyclopedia of languages of the world, Elsevier,ISBN978-0-08-087774-7,archived from the original on 24 March 2023, retrieved11 May 2010,Based on historical sub-grouping approximations and geographical distribution, Bashir (2003) provides six sub-groups of the Dardic languages ...
Bangash, Yaqoob Khan (2010), "Three Forgotten Accessions: Gilgit, Hunza and Nagar",The Journal of Imperial and Commonwealth History,38 (1):117–143,doi:10.1080/03086530903538269,S2CID159652497
Bansal, Alok (2007), "In Pursuit of Forced Assimilation: Sectarian and Ethnic Marginalisation in Gilgit-Baltistan",India Quarterly: A Journal of International Affairs,63 (2):56–80,doi:10.1177/097492840706300203,S2CID153450836
Burki, Shahid Javed (2015),Historical Dictionary of Pakistan, Rowman & Littlefield, p. 228,ISBN978-1-4422-4148-0
Mahmud, Ershad (2008), "The Gilgit-Baltistan Reforms Package 2007: Background, Phases and Analysis",Policy Perspectives,5 (1):23–40,JSTOR42909184
Naumann, Matthias; Fischer-Tahir, Andrea (12 January 2013),Peripheralization: The Making of Spatial Dependencies and Social Injustice, Springer Science & Business Media,ISBN978-3-531-19018-1
Tucker, Spencer C.; Roberts, Priscilla (12 May 2008),The Encyclopedia of the Arab-Israeli Conflict: A Political, Social, and Military History [4 volumes]: A Political, Social, and Military History, ABC-CLIO,ISBN978-1-85109-842-2
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