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Noel Park

Coordinates:51°35′47″N0°06′08″W / 51.5965°N 0.1022°W /51.5965; -0.1022
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This article is about the area in North London. For the Australian politician, seeNoel Park (politician). For the railway station, seeNoel Park and Wood Green railway station.

Human settlement in England
Noel Park
Fourth-class houses in Darwin Road, built during the initial development of Noel Park in the 1880s
Noel Park is located in Greater London
Noel Park
Noel Park
Location withinGreater London
Population5,670 [1]
OS grid referenceTQ315902
• Charing Cross6.4 mi (10.3 km) SSW
London borough
Ceremonial countyGreater London
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townLONDON
Postcode districtN22
Dialling code020
PoliceMetropolitan
FireLondon
AmbulanceLondon
UK Parliament
London Assembly
List of places
UK
England
London
51°35′47″N0°06′08″W / 51.5965°N 0.1022°W /51.5965; -0.1022

Noel Park innorth London is aplanned community built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries consisting of 2,200model dwellings, designed byRowland Plumbe. It was developed as the Noel Park Estate on a tract of land on the edge of north London as part of the fast growing development ofWood Green. It is one of four developments on the outskirts of London built by theArtizans, Labourers & General Dwellings Company (Artizans Company). From 2003 to sometime in 2009, the name was also given to a small park near the southern edge of Noel Park, formerly known – and now known again – as Russell Park.

One of the earliestgarden suburbs in the world, the Noel Park Estate was designed to provide affordable housing for working-class families wishing to leave theinner city; every property had both a front and back garden. It was planned from the outset as a self-contained community close enough to the rail network to allow its residents to commute to work. In line with the principles of the Artizans Company's founder, William Austin, nopublic houses were built within the estate, and there are still none today.

As a result of London's rapid expansion during the early 20th century, and particularly after the area was connected to theLondon Underground in 1932, Noel Park became completely surrounded by later developments. In 1965 it was incorporated into the newly createdLondon Borough of Haringey, and in 1966 it was bought by thelocal authority and taken into public ownership.

Despite damage sustained during theSecond World War and demolition work during the construction ofWood Green Shopping City in the 1970s, Noel Park today remains largely architecturally intact. In 1982, the majority of the area was grantedConservation Area andArticle Four Direction status by theSecretary of State for the Environment, in recognition of its significance in the development of suburban and philanthropic housing and in the history of the modernhousing estate.

Location

[edit]
A roughly triangular area near the centre of Haringey
Noel Park shown within the modern boundaries of Haringey

Noel Park is a neighbourhood ofWood Green, 6.4 miles (10.3 km) north ofCharing Cross, near the centre of the modernLondon Borough of Haringey, of which it is award. The area forms a rough triangle, bordered by theA109 road (Lordship Lane) to the north,A1080 road (Westbury Avenue) to the south-east, andA105 road (Wood Green High Road, formerly part ofGreen Lanes) to the west.

When construction began, theRiver Moselle, running parallel to Lordship Lane a short distance south of it, formed thede facto northern boundary of the area. During the development of the area in the 1880s the river wasculverted and the land between the river and Lordship Lane built on.[2]

The historic western boundary was the now-defunctPalace Gates Line of theGreat Eastern Railway (GER), a short distance to the east of Wood Green High Road. Since the railway's closure in 1964, much of the area between the former railway line and Wood Green High Road has been occupied by the eastern section of the largeThe Mall Wood Green shopping, cinema and residential complex (commonly known as Shopping City).[2]

History and development

[edit]

Early history

[edit]
A single large house stands near a road running north–south. A small village stands to the northwest of the house, between two rivers.
Duckett's Manor (the future Noel Park) and the village of Wood Green in 1619[3]

Most ofWood Green, including the site of Noel Park, was sparsely populated up until the nineteenth century. The 1619Earl of Dorset's Survey of Tottenham shows the area as forming the historicDuckett's Manor; as with the rest of the Moselle valley, the land consisted almost entirely ofwoodland andpasture, with the only building shown in the area which was to become Noel Park being Ducketts Farm. This building was the former manor house of Ducketts dating from 1254 and is the earliest recorded property inWood Green.[4] The tiny settlements atWood Green and Elses Green are shown a short distance to the north-east. The manor itself was situated on the ancient drovers' road ofGreen Lanes.[5] The last recorded occupancy of the manor was in 1881, shortly before the site was cleared for the construction of the Noel Park Estate.[6]

By 1880 the estate had been broken up into fifteen smaller farms. The rough northern meadows adjacent to the Moselle were used for beef farming, whilst the southern fields, known as Grainger's Farm, were used as grazing land.[4] The western edge of the estate was by this time occupied by theGreat Eastern Railway'sPalace Gates Line andGreen Lanes railway station, opened in 1878.[7]

Artizans, Labourers & General Dwellings Company

[edit]

TheArtizans, Labourers & General Dwellings Company (Artizans Company) was established in 1867 by William Austin. Austin was an illiterate who had begun his working life on a farm as ascarecrow paid 1 penny per day,[8] and had worked his way up to become adrainage contractor.[9] The company was established as a for-profitjoint stock company, with the objective of building new houses for the working classes "in consequence of the destruction of houses by railroads and other improvements".[9][10] The company aimed to fuse the designs of rural planned suburbs such asBedford Park with the ethos of high-quality homes for the lower classes pioneered atSaltaire.[11] Whilst earlier philanthropic housing companies such as thePeabody Trust and theImproved Industrial Dwellings Company focused on multi-storeyblocks of flats in the inner cities, the Artizans Company aimed to build low-rise housing in open countryside alongside existing railway lines to allow workers to live in the countryside and commute into the city.[12] The company attracted the attention ofLord Shaftesbury, who served as president until 1875.[9]

The initials AL&GD Co Ltd in ornate script, carved into a flat column
Insignia of the Artizans Company on company-built shops, Noel Park

The company built and immediately sold a group of houses inBattersea, then still a rural village. The proceeds of the sale were used to purchase a plot of land inSalford for development, and by 1874 the company had developments inLiverpool,Birmingham,Gosport andLeeds.[9]

The first of the four large-scale estates built by the Artizans Company wasShaftesbury Park, a development of 1,200 two-storey houses covering 42.5 acres (0.17 km2; 0.07 sq mi) built in 1872 on the site of a formerpig farm in Battersea.[9][12] The success of Shaftesbury Park led to the construction ofQueen's Park, built in 1874 on a far more ambitious scale on 76 acres (0.31 km2; 0.12 sq mi) of land to the west of London, adjacent to the newly openedWestbourne Park station, purchased fromAll Souls College, Oxford. A third London estate was planned atCann Hall, and a site of 61 acres (0.25 km2; 0.10 sq mi) was purchased.[9]

However, the Queen's Park project suffered serious mismanagement and fraud; thecompany secretary William Swindlehurst and two others were found guilty in 1877 of defrauding £9,312 (approximately £1.11 million today) from the project.[13][14] The company was forced to raise rents, and tenants were no longer permitted to buy their houses; by 1880 the company's finances had recovered sufficiently to allow further expansion.[15]

Selection of the site

[edit]

On 14 February 1881,Rowland Plumbe was appointed Consulting Architect to the Artizans Company, with a brief to prepare a third estate. A leading architect of the period, Plumbe had primarily been a designer of hospitals, such as theLondon Hospital,[15] andPoplar Hospital;[16] he had been President of theArchitectural Association in 1871–72 and a Council Member of theRoyal Institute of British Architects since 1876.[15]

Middle-aged man with a bald head and a bushy dark beard
Rowland Plumbe in 1890, shortly after the construction of Noel Park

In April 1881, the Artizans Company inspected sites atFulham and "in the vicinity ofAlexandra Park" in theTottenham Local Board. The Fulham site was rejected as too prone to flooding, and the Wood Green site rejected as being too far from any centre of population.[4]

However, the next month, the decision was taken to bid for the site near Wood Green.[4] Despite its distance from London at the time, the area was well served by railways. The Palace Gates Line, opened in 1878 to serve nearbyAlexandra Palace, had an intermediate station at Green Lanes, immediately adjacent to the site in question.[17] This provided direct service to theCity of London from the outset; following the construction of a link with theTottenham and Hampstead Junction Railway on 1 June 1880, direct services also ran toBlackwall andNorth Woolwich, providing direct links with thePort of London.[18] In addition, theGreat Northern Railway's station atWood Green (now Alexandra Palace station) was within walking distance. The company decided that the quality of transport links compensated for the distance from any significant centre of population, and in June 1881 a site of 100 acres (0.40 km2; 0.16 sq mi) was purchased by the company for £56,345 (approximately £7.18 million today).[14][19]

Design

[edit]
Drawings of two rows of houses with sharply angled roofs, and much larger houses at the ends of the rows
Plumbe's original designs for first- and second-class housing

Plumbe designed the estate with five classes of houses. Although the houses were built to the same five basic designs, each street was given a distinct style of design and ornamentation. Varying mixes of red and yellow bricks, and variations in window design and ornamental motifs, were used to give each street a distinct identity.[20] All were designed with front and back gardens.[21] Corner houses were given distinctive designs andturrets.[22]

Small two-storey houses, with the front doors set in small outbuildings to open perpendicular to the front of the house
Fifth-class houses, Moselle Avenue: the front doors are angled to avoid opening adjacently to their neighbours.

The distribution of houses followed the traditionalVictorian model of town planning. The larger first- and second-class houses were built in the centre, close to the church and school, while the more numerous third-, fourth-, and fifth-class houses were built in the estate's outskirts.[23] Welch (2006) speculates that this segregation of housing was not Plumbe's intention;[23] Plumbe himself was quoted in 1896 as saying that "I regret that it is necessary to separate the richer and more cultured classes from the poorer, owing to the prejudices which exist; and these prejudices exist on the part of the poor as well as on the part of the other class".[24]

Except for the corner houses, the houses were built in pairs, each sharing a porch with its neighbour.[21] For many of the smaller fourth- and fifth-class houses, the doors were aligned at right angles to the façade of the house, so as not to open directly adjacently to their neighbours. All houses were designed with at least oneparlour and with thekitchen,scullery, andtoilet in separate rooms at the rear of the house; the first-class houses also had toilets upstairs.[25] In line with the design principles of the time, the downstairs toilets were accessible only from the back gardens, and the houses were not fitted with separate bathrooms; baths were taken in a moveable bath located in the kitchen.[25]

Blueprints for five designs of two-storey house of descending size
Floor plans of the five classes of house built at Noel Park

All houses were built withmarble-mantelpiecedfireplaces andflues. All houses were supplied withrunning water supplied from theNew River, which flowed throughWood Green.[25] However, not all houses were supplied withgas ormains electricity from the outset, the remainder being lit by candles or oil or paraffin lamps.[25]

Houses at Noel Park were deliberately designed to be relatively small, both for cheapness and to discourage tenants from taking onlodgers.[26] Many of the larger houses at Shaftesbury Park had beensublet andsplit, and the practice went against the principles of the Artizans Company's founders.[21] To discourage the practice at Queen's Park and Noel Park,cottage flats were built; these maintained the terraced façade, but split the house into upper and lower flats, each flat having a separate front door onto the street.[21]

Construction

[edit]
What appear to be normal two-storey terraced houses, but with two doors in each porch instead of one
Plumbe-designed cottage flats with their distinctive multiple doors, Gladstone Avenue

On 4 May 1883, the Artizans Company sold a parcel of land adjacent to the railway line to the Great Eastern Railway for construction of agoods yard, and asiding was built into the development site.[27][28] Although initially the company had considered making bricks on the site, the rail yard allowed raw materials to be purchased wholesale and transported cheaply to the site, with large warehouses and workshops constructed for the manufacture of doors, flooring and other necessary materials; in 1884 thePall Mall Gazette reported that "in a shed 330ft long by 50ft broad are stored a million superficial feet of flooring boards".[28]

A well-dressed middle-aged man with a bald head and bushy sideburns, wearing a dark suit and carrying a large book
Ernest Noel MP

In early 1883 serious discrepancies were discovered between the amounts of building material apparently purchased and the actual amounts acquired. Rowland Plumbe and Sir Richard Farrant, Deputy Chairman of the Artizans Company, visited the site to investigate the matter. Mr Hunt, theforeman, advised that "in answer to questions as to the mode of measurement in use for Ballast heaps, that one third was added to the measurement for shrinkage".[29]

When summoned to appear before the "Hornsey Committee" of the Artizans Company the next day, Hunt instead sent his assistant, without the relevant ledgers and instead with a paper described in the Committee minutes as "a paper of measurements which were soon ascertained not to be the actual measurements but measurements falsified so as to work out cubically to about the measurements certified by Mr Hunt".[30] The total overpaid by the company was calculated by Plumbe as £1,071.14s.3d (approximately £136,300 today); Hunt was immediately dismissed and a gatekeeper to record all goods entering the site was put in place to avoid a repetition of the incident.[14][29]

A row of two-storey red brick houses with sharply angled roofs and large windows
First-class houses, Gladstone Avenue

In 1883, it was decided to name the estate "Noel Park", in honour ofErnest Noel (1831–1931),Liberal Member of Parliament forDumfries Burghs and chairman of the Artizans Company since 1880.[31] The streets were laid out on agrid plan of broad avenues running on a south-west to north-east axis and narrower roads running north-west to south-east. Streets were named after prominent members of the Artizans Company and leading political figures of the time, with the exception of Darwin Avenue, named forCharles Darwin, prominent naturalist and an early investor in the Artizans Company, and Moselle Avenue, which was to follow the course of theculverted River Moselle; seeDerivation of street names, below.[32]

Opening

[edit]

On 4 August 1883, with approximately 200 houses completed, Noel Park was formally opened. Noel gave a speech at the opening ceremony in which he described the development as:

... what, out of the metropolis, would be called a town, which would eventually ... be larger than theRoyal Borough of Windsor and nearly as large as the old cathedral city ofCanterbury. But this town would not contain various classes of population, but would be built for the express purpose of meeting the wants of the artisan classes, so that they whose resources are limited should be enabled to reside amid pleasant surroundings.[31]

Lord Shaftesbury then laid the memorial stone, praising Noel Park as "the furtherance of a plan which has proved to be most beneficial, and would, if carried out to its full extent, completely alter for the better the domiciliary habits of the people of the metropolis".[33]Edward White Benson,Archbishop of Canterbury, sent a note which was read to the crowd in which he stated that "no one who cares for our labouring population can doubt that this is one of the first, perhaps the most, necessary of all steps for their good".[34][35]

A newspaper report of the event included the following, "the Noel Park Estate, Green Lanes, Wood Green, London — quite a town of artisans' and labourers' dwellings — was opened by Lord Shaftesbury....All the streets are wide, and the architecture houses and the agreeable surroundings of trees and fields give them a singularly comfortable and pleasant appearance".[36]

Financial difficulties

[edit]

Noel Park was heavily marketed as a "Suburban Workman's Colony", with promotional material playing heavily on the area's transport links. The Great Eastern Railway was persuaded in 1884 to rename Green Lanes railway station to "Green Lanes (Noel Park)" (shown on some signs and maps as "Green Lanes & Noel Park");[17] the area was also less than half a mile fromWood Green railway station (now Alexandra Palace station) on theGreat Northern Railway. By 1886 Noel Park had over 7,000 residents.[37]

A brightly painted red house with a tall pointed tower, situated on a crossroads
A corner house

However, the poor workers at whom the Noel Park development was aimed found themselves unable to afford railway tickets. The issuing of cheap early morning workman's fares on the Great Eastern Railway's lines further east inTottenham,Stamford Hill andWalthamstow had led to overcrowding on trains and large numbers of poor workers moving to the areas (many of them displaced by the construction of the GER'sLiverpool Street station in the City of London and rehoused by the company).[38] William Birt, General Manager of the GER, was strongly against extending the policy of workmen's fares, stating that "to issue them from Green Lanes would do us a very large amount of injury, and would cause the same public annoyance and inconvenience as exists already upon the Stamford Hill and Walthamstow lines" and that "no one living in Noel Park could desire to possess the same class of neighbours as the residents of Stamford Hill have in the neighbourhood ofSt Ann's Road".[39]

In 1884, a deputation led by Lord Shaftesbury was made to the Great Eastern Railway and Great Northern Railway, proposing that for trains due to arrive in central London prior to 8 am, third class tickets should be sold at a fare of 3d providing the return journey was not made before 4 pm. By May 1885 both railways had adopted this policy. However, the delays and uncertainty caused by the fares dispute had discouraged prospective tenants, leaving large numbers of properties vacant and causing further building work to slow considerably.[40] In 1887, construction work was temporarily suspended altogether, in response to the large backlog of un-let properties.[37]

By the time of the 1894 Ordnance Survey, roughly 50% of the estate was complete.[40] The entire southern half of the estate between Gladstone Avenue and Westbury Avenue at this point remained open fields.[37]

Amenities

[edit]
A large laundrette, a shop with a large "Food and Wine" sign, and a blue-painted storefront with no sign and closed steel shutters
Shops at the junction of Vincent Road and Moselle Avenue, built by the Artizans Company in 1884[41]

Terraces of shops were built around the fringes of the estate, to cater for the residents of the expanding suburb of Wood Green including the Noel Park Estate as well as for the users of the adjacent railway station. The designs of the terraces varied, from short terraces of small shops on the edges of the less-visited eastern portions of the estate, to parades of large shops on Wood Green High Road near the railway station.[41]

A large red and yellow brick school of a similar Gothic design to the previous photographs of houses but on a much larger scale
Noel Park School

One of the few buildings constructed in the early stages of Noel Park's development not designed by Rowland Plumbe, Noel Park School was built in 1889 by the Wood Green School Board, to the design of architect Charles Wall.[42]

The school was designed to accommodate 1,524 pupils of both sexes; however, by 1898 the growth of the Noel Park estate led to severe overcrowding problems, with an average attendance of 1,803, making it the most overcrowded school in the School Board's area. In 1924 a school for the partially blind opened within the school.[43]

In 1946, the school became aSecondary Modern. Between 1957 and 1963 the secondary facilities were closed, leaving the school as aprimary school.[44] In 1965, the school came under the control of the newly createdLondon Borough of Haringey.[43] Following reorganisation of Haringey's education services, it is now a primary school serving approximately 500 pupils between the ages of three and 11.[45]

A long narrow strip of grass stretches into the distance, with houses on both sides. The grass is occupied by football pitches.
Russell Park (formerly Noel Park)

Although Plumbe's original plans for the estate had envisaged a recreational area in the centre of the estate, this never came into being and the land reserved for it was built over during the estate's early development. Despite Noel Park's proximity to the leisure facilities of nearbyAlexandra Park, in 1929 a long, thin strip of land near the south of the estate was designated as parkland and given the name "Russell Park". In 2003, following consultation with residents, the park was renamed "Noel Park" by Haringey Council.[42] Its name has since been changed back to Russell Park.[46]

A red brick church, with very tall thin windows and no spire or tower
St Mark's Church

A site for a church had been set aside on the estate from the outset, and in 1884 Plumbe submitted designs for a church and mission hall. The mission hall opened in March 1885 with room for 350, and soon began to suffer from overcrowding. The people of Noel Park started a fund to pay for the church, which was consecrated on 1 November 1889 as St Mark's.[47]

The church is relatively large, seating 850.[48] It is built in theVenetian Gothic style, and divided into a five-baynave,transepts,chancel, morning chapel and organ chamber.[48] Although Plumbe's original design envisaged a tower, none was ever built. By 1900, St Mark's was reported as having a congregation twice that of any other church in Wood Green.[47]

A yellow brick building of very similar appearance to the church
Shropshire Hall

In 1913, a second much larger mission hall was opened nearby, named the Walsham-How Mission Hall afterWilliam Walsham How, leader of the Shropshire Mission to East London.[47] The Shropshire Hall, built by the Shropshire Mission in Gladstone Avenue, is now the Noel Park Children's Centre.[49] Noel Park's relative geographic isolation led to the formation of large numbers of clubs and societies using the two mission halls for a wide range of activities, including large numbers of sporting societies.[42]

Due to thetemperance views of the Artizans Company's directors, no public houses were built in Noel Park, a situation which remains the case today.[50]

20th century

[edit]

Early 20th-century expansion

[edit]

In 1905, G. J. Earle, the Artizans Company's Surveyor, drew up plans for the remainder of the site based on the experiences learned from the completed northern half of the estate. Buildings were designed to a modified version of Plumbe's third-class house plan in theArts and Crafts style, with white-rendered brickwork, regular low gables, and curved ground floor windows. The toilets were now designed with connecting doors to the sculleries, and in some cases the staircases repositioned to the front of the house. They were no longer described or marketed as "third-class" houses.[51]

By October 1906, 1,999 properties were let, including 88 shops and 4 stables. Although the estate was nearing completion by this point, construction work was not entirely completed until 1929.[51]

By this point, the Noel Park development and the growing community of Wood Green were coming to dominate the area. In recognition of this, in 1902 Green Lanes railway station was renamed Noel Park & Wood Green.[17] In 1911 a group of mid-Victorian houses on Wood Green High Road, immediately south of the railway station, were demolished by the Artizans Company to make way for the Cheapside shopping parade, built to serve residents of Noel Park and the growing community of Wood Green.[52]

A row of shops facing onto a very busy pavement, with a large six-storey brick building visible in the background
Shops on Wood Green High Road built by the Artizans Company in the 1880s.[41] The Mall Wood Green is in the background.

The centrepiece of the Cheapside development was the Wood Green Empire, a 3,000-capacity theatre designed byFrank Matcham. The Empire soon became one of London's leading entertainment venues, hosting acts such asMarie Lloyd,Frankie Vaughan andShirley Bassey. The Empire is best known as the theatre in which magicianChung Ling Soo (William Ellsworth Robinson) was fatally shot in the chest on 23 March 1918, when a theatrical pistol used in abullet catch demonstration malfunctioned.[53]

With the postwar decline ofvariety andmusic hall and increased competition from cinema and television, the theatre went into decline and was closed on 31 January 1955. Following its closure it was used byAssociated TeleVision as a studio until 1963. The interior was demolished in 1970, but the building remains intact and is now used as a shop and offices.[2]

Piccadilly line

[edit]

In 1904 theGreat Northern & City Railway underground railway had opened, running from the City of London to a terminus atFinsbury Park station, followed in 1906 by theGreat Northern, Piccadilly & Brompton Railway (GNP&BR) from the western suburbs through central London to Finsbury Park, approximately 2 miles (3.2 km) south of Noel Park; both were prevented from expanding further north by a legal agreement with the Great Northern Railway giving the GNR a veto on any expansion of underground railways into areas within which they would compete with the GNR.[54] This led to serious congestion at Finsbury Park as passengers from the expanding suburbs changed from buses and trams to the GN&CR and GNP&BR, and in June 1923 a petition of 30,000 signatures calling for the extension of one of the underground lines northwards was delivered to the Ministry of Transport.[54]

TheLondon and North Eastern Railway (LNER), successor to the GNR, was compelled by theMinistry of Transport to waive the veto or proceed with its own electrification. In November 1925, the LNER abandoned its electrification scheme. In 1929 the incomingSecond Labour Government initiated a policy of direct subsidy for major infrastructure projects, and in 1930 theUnderground Electric Railways Company of London began work on extending the GNP&BR, now thePiccadilly line.[55] ThePiccadilly line extension to Cockfosters opened in stages, with stations atWood Green andTurnpike Lane – both on the western edge of Noel Park, at the junctions of Wood Green High Road and Lordship Lane, and Wood Green High Road and Westbury Avenue, respectively – opening on 19 September 1932.[56] With the area now connected to west and central London by clean, rapid and frequent electric trains, the population of the surrounding areas began to rise rapidly.[57]

Postwar reconstruction

[edit]

Although of little strategic value and undamaged during the early stages ofWorld War II, in the final stages of the war a number ofV-1 flying bombs andV-2 ballistic missiles struck the area. The worst attack occurred in February 1945, when a V-2 struck Westbeech Road, killing 17 and injuring 68. Thebombsites were redeveloped with housing in then-current styles, rather than to Plumbe and Earle's designs.[2]

Three houses of an obviously 1950s rectilinear design are surrounded by typical Victorian Gothic houses.
Postwar replacements for bombed houses, Farrant Avenue

In 1958, as part of the commemorations of the 70th anniversary of the creation of theWood Green Local Board, the railway goods depot was used for a three-day exhibition of locomotives and other railway rolling stock. The exhibition was a great success, and was visited by around 14,000 spectators.[27] Among locomotives on exhibit were the land speed record holderMallard and aClass 9F steam locomotive.[58]

A footpath stretches in a straight line into the distance, next to a large yellow rectangular building.
Trackbed of the former Palace Gates Line (left) and The Sandlings, built on the site of the former railway goods depot

However, by this point the Palace Gates Line was in severe decline. Passenger numbers had fallen greatly since the opening of the Piccadilly line, while freight usage dropped throughout the 1950s as a result of improved road haulage and declining demand for coal. The line was closed to passengers on 7 January 1963.[7] With freight usage dwindling to a trickle following the ending of passenger services, the goods yard was closed on 7 December 1964.[27] The site of the goods yard was used for the construction of a large apartment block known as The Sandlings,[2] and Noel Park & Wood Green railway station was converted into commercial premises, before being demolished in the early 1970s to become the site of the eastern section ofWood Green Shopping City.[17]

Transfer to local authority control

[edit]

In 1952, the Artizans, Labourers & General Dwellings Company was renamed the Artizans and General Properties Company Ltd.[9] The combination of a taxation system biased against private property developments and legal restrictions on raising rents made the company's traditional model unprofitable, and it began to divest itself of its original low-rent developments and instead to sell vacant houses on the estates and to reinvest in non low-rent housing and commercial property, especially in the United States and Canada wheredepreciation before tax was permitted.[9] In 1966, ownership of the four original London estates (Shaftesbury Park, Queen's Park, Noel Park and Leigham Court) was transferred to the respective local authorities ascouncil housing – in the case of Noel Park, the newly createdLondon Borough of Haringey, which purchased the 2,175 properties comprising the Noel Park estate for a total of £2,917,000 (approximately £68.6 million today)[14][59] – leaving 377 homes at Pinnerwood Park inPinner as the last residential estate in Greater London owned by the company.[9]

In 1976, the Artizans Company, by then renamed Artagen Properties Ltd, became a wholly owned subsidiary ofSun Life, and on 3 February 1981 the company was renamed Sun Life Properties Ltd.[9]

Modern Noel Park

[edit]
A strip of grass recedes in a straight line into the distance towards a large yellow brick building. Three single-storey huts stand on the grass.
Post-war prefabricated housing on the trackbed of the former Palace Gates Line through Noel Park. The large building in the background is "The Sandlings", built on the site of the former goods yard.

Following the transfer to local authority control, much of the property on the estate was found to be in poor condition. In 1971 a report by the London Borough of Haringey found that half the properties on the estate were still lacking basic facilities such as baths, internal toilets and hot water. Houses were systematically extended to the rear to accommodate modern bathrooms.[59]

A tall red brick building towers over streets of two-storey houses. The roofs of the houses and the surrounding pavements are covered in snow.
The western half of Noel Park is now dominated by the eastern section of The Mall Wood Green, on the site of the former railway station.

In the early 1970s, the nine-storeyWood Green Shopping City shopping, cinema and residential complex was built on both sides of Wood Green High Road, and now dominates the area. Although some houses were demolished during construction works, it was intended at the time to divert Wood Green High Road around Shopping City, which would have necessitated the demolition of much of the western section of Noel Park. However, the diversion scheme was abandoned, leading to the current unusual situation in which the road runs directly through the shopping centre; Cherry & Pevsner note that Noel Park was "spared worse damage by the abandonment of the proposed road".[60]

In 1980, theHousing Act 1980 gave council tenants the right to buy their homes. In light of this, a group of 1500 properties in the area was givenConservation Area status,[59] and Plumbe's northern section of the estate was grantedArticle Four Direction byMichael Heseltine,Secretary of State for the Environment, preventing any alterations to the external appearances of the properties without planning permission, in recognition of its architectural and historic interest.[61] St Mark's Church was meanwhileGrade II listed.[59] However, these measures have not been consistently enforced, and Noel Park has been cited in a report byEnglish Heritage as a prominent example of the failure of conservation areas.[62][63]

Throughout the 1980s and early 1990s, the estate was the home of a large squatter community, mostly made up of youngpunks from Ireland, Wales, Scotland and outside London, which greatly enlivened the area but also led to many legal and other conflicts with Haringey Council, who ironically had left so many of the properties empty in the first place. Many of these were later to move to the Woodberry Down Estate inManor House.

In line with the original principles of the Artizans Company, there are still no public houses in Noel Park. In 2008 parts ofWood Green including Noel Park were declared a Controlled Drinking Zone, allowing police to confiscate alcohol from those engaged in anti-social behaviour.[64]

As with much of Haringey, Noel Park is now one of the most ethnically diverse areas in the world. In 2002, 86% of pupils attending Noel Park School were from ethnic minorities.[1]

Regular rows of red brick houses stretching into the distance
Panoramic view of Noel Park in 2009 from the western edge, looking northeast

Derivation of street names

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  • Ashley Crescent:Evelyn Ashley, MP forIsle of Wight, son of Lord Shaftesbury and Chairman of the Artizans Company
  • Buller Road:Redvers Buller, winner of theVictoria Cross at theBattle of Hlobane, 1879
  • Darwin Road:Charles Darwin, naturalist and early investor in the Artizans Company
  • Dovecote Avenue: On the site of the original Duckett's (Dovecote) Manor, by this time demolished
  • Farrant Avenue: Sir Richard Farrant, Deputy Chairman of the Artizans Company 1881–1906
  • Gladstone Avenue:William Ewart Gladstone, Prime Minister at the time of the opening of Noel Park
  • Hewitt Avenue: Thomas Hewitt QC, Director of the Artizans Company 1895–1917
  • Lymington Avenue:Viscount Lymington, Director of the Artizans Company 1883-1891
  • Mark Road: Mark H Judge, Director of the Artizans Company 1878–1922
  • Maurice Avenue: Maurice Powell, Director of the Artizans Company 1880–1914
  • Morley Avenue:Samuel Morley, MP forBristol and Director of the Artizans Company 1877–1880
  • Moselle Avenue: Runs above theculverted River Moselle
  • Pelham Road: T W Pelham, Director of the Artizans Company 1880–1894
  • Redvers Road: Redvers Buller (see Buller Road, above)
  • Russell Avenue:John Russell, former Liberal Prime Minister
  • Salisbury Road:Robert Cecil, 3rd Marquess of Salisbury, leader of the Conservative Party
  • Vincent Road: Unknown; Welch speculates from Rev. Henry Vincent Le Bas, the only member of the Noel Park Committee at the time of opening not known to have had a street named for him[32]

Politics

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Noel Park is part of theHornsey and Wood Green for elections to theHouse of Commons of the United Kingdom.

Noel Park is part of theNoel Park ward for elections toHaringey London Borough Council.[65]

References

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Notes

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  1. ^abGarner, Kate (8 December 2008)."Noel Park Facts and Figures". London Borough of Haringey. Archived fromthe original on 3 May 2009. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  2. ^abcdeWelch, p. 48
  3. ^From theEarl of Dorset's Survey of Tottenham, 1619. As with most English maps of this period, south is shown at the top of the map. The river in the centre of the map is the Moselle, whilst the "river" passing through Wood Green to the north-west is theNew River, opened six years prior to the survey.
  4. ^abcdWelch, p. 11
  5. ^The section of Green Lanes between Turnpike Lane and Wood Green stations, which forms the western boundary of modern Noel Park, has since been renamed "Wood Green High Road".
  6. ^Baker, T. F. T.; Pugh, R. B., eds. (1976)."Tottenham: Manors".A History of the County of Middlesex.5. London:324–330. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  7. ^abConnor, p. VIII
  8. ^Long, p. 3
  9. ^abcdefghij"Sun Life Properties Ltd".IV/122. The National Archives. Retrieved14 February 2009.
  10. ^Welch, p. 8
  11. ^Welch, p. 7
  12. ^abWelch, p. 9
  13. ^Old Bailey Proceedings Online,Trial of WILLIAM SWINDLEHURST, JOHN BAXTER LANGLEY, EDWARD SAFFERY. (t18771022-761, 22 October 1877).
  14. ^abcdUKRetail Price Index inflation figures are based on data fromClark, Gregory (2017)."The Annual RPI and Average Earnings for Britain, 1209 to Present (New Series)".MeasuringWorth. Retrieved7 May 2024.
  15. ^abcWelch, p. 10
  16. ^Hobhouse, Hermione, ed. (1994)."East India Dock Road, North side".Survey of London.43–44:147–153. Retrieved14 February 2009.
  17. ^abcdConnor, § 109
  18. ^Lake, p. 23
  19. ^Welch, p. 12
  20. ^Welch, p. 25
  21. ^abcdWelch, p. 30
  22. ^Welch, p. 27
  23. ^abWelch, p. 32
  24. ^London newspaper, 1896-05-28, quoted in Welch, p. 35
  25. ^abcdWelch, p. 28
  26. ^Tarn, p. 58
  27. ^abcConnor, § 108
  28. ^abWelch, p. 15
  29. ^abWelch, p. 17
  30. ^Minutes of the Hornsey Committee of the Artizans Company, 8 January 1883, quoted Pegram, p17
  31. ^abWelch, p. 18
  32. ^abWelch, p. 23
  33. ^Welch, p. 19
  34. ^"I assure you of my sympathy with the work which the Artizans Dwelling Company is attempting in the important direction of improving the houses of the working men. No one who cares for our labouring population can doubt that this is one of the first, perhaps the most, necessary of all steps for their good."
  35. ^Welch, p. 20
  36. ^Tamworth Herald, Saturday 11 August 1883.
  37. ^abcBaker, T. F. T.; Pugh, R. B., eds. (1976)."Tottenham: Growth after 1850".A History of the County of Middlesex.5. London:317–324. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  38. ^Connor, p. V
  39. ^Olsen, p. 290
  40. ^abWelch, p. 21
  41. ^abcWelch, p. 45
  42. ^abcWelch, p. 41
  43. ^abWelch, p. 44
  44. ^Baker, T. F. T.; Pugh, R. B., eds. (1976)."Tottenham: Education".A History of the County of Middlesex.5. London:364–376. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  45. ^"Noel Park Primary School". London Borough of Haringey. 27 October 2008. Archived fromthe original on 4 March 2009. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  46. ^"Russell Park". Haringey Council.
  47. ^abcWelch, p. 39
  48. ^abBaker, T. F. T.; Pugh, R. B., eds. (1976)."Tottenham: Churches".A History of the County of Middlesex.5. London:348–355. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  49. ^Welch (p. 39) states that the current Shropshire Hall on Gladstone Avenue is the original 1913 Walsham-How Mission Hall building. However, pictorial evidence of the 1913 building at the time of construction and the 1920 Ordnance Survey map suggests that the original building is that sited off Willington Road opposite the junction with Lakefield Road, a short distance south of the current Shropshire Hall, with the latter being a later construction.
  50. ^Brian Harrison,Pubs, Dyos and Wolff, p. 183
  51. ^abWelch, p. 35
  52. ^Welch, p. 36
  53. ^Welch, p. 46
  54. ^abCroome, p. 26
  55. ^Croome, p. 28
  56. ^Croome, p. 30
  57. ^Croome, p. 44
  58. ^Martin, Ted (June 2004)."Transport in Wood Green in the 1950s".Greater London Industrial Archaeology Society. London: GLIAS. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  59. ^abcdWelch, p. 50
  60. ^Cherry & Pevsner, p. 594
  61. ^"Design Guidelines: Noel Park Conservation Area"(PDF). London Borough of Haringey. July 1983. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 24 February 2009. Retrieved20 February 2009.
  62. ^Jack, Ian (27 June 2009)."Beware the double-glazing salesman".The Guardian. Retrieved28 June 2009.
  63. ^"London's unique areas 'at risk'".BBC News. 23 June 2009. Retrieved22 August 2018.
  64. ^Fontaine, Valley (21 April 2008)."Further alcohol controls for Haringey Streets". BBC News. Archived fromthe original on 13 November 2012. Retrieved15 February 2009.
  65. ^"The London Borough of Haringey (Electoral Changes) Order 2020".gov.uk. 12 October 2020. Retrieved13 November 2021.

Bibliography

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  • Cherry, Bridget; Pevsner, Nikolaus (1998).The Buildings of England. Vol. London 4: North. London: Penguin.ISBN 0-14-071049-3.OCLC 40453938.
  • Connor, Jim (2004). Vic Mitchell (ed.).Branch Lines to Enfield Town and Palace Gates. Midhurst: Middleton Press.ISBN 1-904474-32-2.
  • Croome, Desmond F. (1998).The Piccadilly Line. Harrow Weald: Capital Transport.ISBN 1-85414-192-9.
  • Jim Dyos & Michael Wolff, ed. (1999).The Victorian City. Vol. 1. Routledge.ISBN 0-415-19323-0.
  • Lake, G.H. (1945).The Railways of Tottenham. London: Greenlake Publications Ltd.ISBN 1-899890-26-2.{{cite book}}:ISBN / Date incompatibility (help)
  • Long, Helen (2002).Victorian Houses and Their Details: The Role of Publications in Their Building and Decoration. Architectural Press.ISBN 0-7506-4848-1.
  • Olsen, Donald J. (1976).The Growth of Victorian London. London: Batsford.ISBN 0-7134-3229-2.OCLC 185749148.
  • Tarn, John Nelson (1973).Five Per Cent Philanthropy: An account of housing in urban areas between 1840 and 1914. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.ISBN 0-521-08506-3.OCLC 875501.
  • Welch, Caroline (2006).Noel Park: A Social and Architectural History. London: Haringey Council Libraries, Archives & Museum Services.OCLC 123373636.

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