Nikšić (Cyrillic: Никшић,pronounced[nîkʃit͡ɕ]),[a] is Montenegro's second-largest city, with an urban population of 66,700 as of the 2023 census. It lies in the western region of the country, at the heart of the expansive Nikšić field, nestled at the base of Trebjesa Hill.
Nikšić serves as the administrative center of theNikšić Municipality, which encompasses a population of 65,705 and spans the largest area among all Montenegrin municipalities. By territory, it was also the largest municipality in the former Yugoslavia. The city plays a key role as a hub for industry, education, and culture in the country.
In classical antiquity, the area of Nikšić was the site of the settlement of theIllyrian tribe of the Endirudini and was known in sources of the time as Anderba or Enderon.[3] The Roman Empire built amilitary camp (castrum Anderba) in the 4th century AD, which was known as the Ostrogothic fortressAnagastum (after 459. AD). After Slavic settlement in the region, Anagastum became SlavicOnogošt, which was the name of the town andžupa (county) in theMiddle Ages. Onogošt was renamed as Nikšić in the middle of 15th century after theNikšići, aMontenegrin tribe.[4]
The region formed one of the core areas of theIllyrian kingdom with its capital inRhizon. It was inhabited by the Endirudini, who figure in the list of tribes which surrendered toOctavian in 33 BC. The Endirudini were one of the tribes who were included in the administrative reorganization of the tribal units in the early Roman Empire and became part of the Docleatae withDoclea as their administrative center.[3]
Bedem castle ruinsCarev Most was designed by Nikšić's city planner Josip Slade and completed in 1894.
TheOttoman Empire took control of Onogošt in 1465,[5] and it stayed under control of the Turks for more than four hundred years, as a part ofHerzegovina Province.[citation needed] Onogošt was first referred to as "Nikšić" in a document titledRadonia Pribisalich de Nichsich printed in 1518.[6]Evliya Çelebi mentioned Serbs who live in the villages around Nikšić.[7] The name "Nikšić" was used alongside Onogošt until 1767, when the name Nikšić was officially implemented after anayan council, a high-profile meeting of Ottoman feudal lords which was relatively common at the time.[8] During the later years of Ottoman occupation, the town served as a significant fortified military stronghold. During the course of Ottoman rule, a total of fourmosques were built in Nikšić.[9] The first one,Donjogradska, was constructed between 1695 and 1703.[9] A second mosque calledHadžidanuša was constructed sometime in the early 1700s by an Ottoman military captain, Hadži-Husejin Danević; it was colloquially known as the "short mosque" because it had nominarets.[9] A third mosque, known simply as "Pasha's mosque", was the largest in Nikšić. It was said to be architecturally similar toJashar Pasha Mosque inPristina.[9] A fourth mosque calledHadži-Ismail's mosque was erected in 1807, and was the only mosque to survive the departure of the Ottoman Empire from Nikšić later that century.[9]
Under the influence of theFirst Serbian Uprising, in the summer of 1805, the movement of Herzegovinian Serbs wanting to start an uprising appeared in Nikšić.[10] The people of Nikšić relied on and cooperated with theharambašas fromPopovo Polje,Trebinje and Trebinje Šuma, (Serbo-Croatian:Требињска шума),[b] and calculated that 19,000 Serbs could rise up in revolt, while weapons were to arrive from Russia, via Greece. The Turks reacted to that by sending 10,000 soldiers led by pasha Kauzlarić to quell the rebellion. After the suppression of the uprising by the Turks, in which local Slavic Muslims probably took part, there was no more mention of the wider rebellion in historical sources.[10]
"Prince Nikola upon entering Nikšić directly invited representatives of Muslim citizens and informed them that whoever decides to stay is guaranteed complete personal freedom, freedom to retain homes, land, and all property, complete freedom of religion and that they will enjoy all the rights of Montenegrin citizenry, even including the right to carry arms. On the other hand, those who decide to leave will be allowed to bring any mobile goods and the Montenegrin government will issue a horse and an envoy up to the border."[11]
Principality and Kingdom of Montenegro (1877–1918)
Nikšić was officially recognized as a part of thePrincipality of Montenegro in theTreaty of Berlin. The small Ottoman hamlet began to transform into a modern urban settlement. The first urban plan was adopted in 1883, commissioned byKing Nikola, who appointedCroatian architect Josip Slade to develop the city planning.[12] In addition to designing contemporary Nikšić, he also designed the monumentalCarev Most nearby.[12]
The ousting ofKing Nikola and the context of the transition to theKingdom of Serbs, Croats, and Slovenes resulted in considerable tension and even violence in Nikšić. On 23 December 1918 Nikšić was the site of a skirmish betweenMontenegrin Greens and Serbian troops under the command of Dragan Milutinović. The Greens had launched an attack on Nikšić during theChristmas Uprising, although Serbian forces prevailed.[13] Even after the Christmas Uprising ended, some Montenegrin Greens continued resisting the Yugoslav government for many years. On 28 December 1923, 11 Montenegrin "Komiti" who continued guerilla activities after the Christmas Uprising were executed in Nikšić by the Serbian Gendarmery.[14]
Nikšić saw the establishment of rail transport during the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. On 12 July 1938, after thirteen years of intermittent construction, the first train arrived fromBileća at the newly-constructed railway station in Nikšić.[15] A gate was decorated in front of the new station, on which a portrait ofKing Petar II was installed with "Long Live Yugoslavia!" written under the portrait.[15] Approximately 5,000 people waited for the first train to arrive, even when its arrival was delayed by two hours on a hot day.[15] During the delay, much of the public was reportedly impatient, with two war veterans leading akolo dance on the railroad tracks before the train arrived.[15]
DuringWorld War II, Nikšić was first occupied by theItalian governorate in Montenegro. The occupation resulted in several insurrections, with one of the earliest started by theYugoslav Partisans. The first Partisan advances were violently repressed, as Nikšić became the site of a large number ofpublic executions, including those of notable communistsLjubo Čupić and 16-year old Joka Baletić.[16]
One of the biggest changes in Nikšić were the construction of new factories, particularly the metal processing plant "Boris Kidrič", whichJosip Broz Tito first visited in May 1959. Tito visited the Boris Kidrič plant again on 12 May 1969, after it was reported that the plant recorded a positive net revenue for the previous quarter-year for the first time since its establishment.[19] During his second visit to Nikšić, Tito insisted that negative business results be addressed by modernizing machinery in the factory, as opposed to placing responsibility solely on workers.[19] By 1985, the Boris Kidrič metal works employed over 6,500 workers, although that year twostrikes took place.[20] Chronic inflation of the Yugoslav dinar had already begun, and the metal works were dependent on imports in order to produce. This added pressure to raise prices of steel products, which in turn made them less competitive with steel from western Europe.[20]
The city population was increased tenfold, and Nikšić became the heart of Montenegrin industrial complex. During thesocialist republic era, the city flourished, assteel andiron works,bauxite mines, electricity production,brewery andwood processing industries were set up in and around the city.
With thebreakup of Yugoslavia, Nikšić was hit hard with the hyperinflation of theYugoslav dinar,international sanctions, and overall decline throughout Yugoslavia during the 1990s. Nikšić had a large amount of reservists in theYugoslav People's Army. Between 62[21] and 77JNA soldiers killed in theYugoslav Wars were from Nikšić alone.[22] Political tension in Nikšić was polarized between Serbian nationalist and Montenegrin secessionist groups. Although Nikšić did not experience violence from the war in neighboring Bosnia, there were some extraordinary incidents. In the fall of 1992,Vojislav Šešelj planned to hold aSerbian Radical Party rally in Nikšić.[23] However, a local criminal[24][25] named Brano Mićunović plotted to assassinate Šešelj outside of a tunnel upon entering Nikšić, and Šešelj ultimately cancelled the meeting after hearing about the plot.[26] In June 1993, Hadži-Ismail's mosque was destroyed during unrest.[27]
Years of wartime tension and widespread poverty took a toll on the city. In 1996, Nikšić recorded the second-most suicides out of any city inYugoslavia.[28] After a period of twenty days during which six suicides and two murders took place, clergymen in Nikšić decided to start an annual public liturgy, orLitija, which was attended by tens of thousands of worshipers who walked all the way fromOstrog Monastery in May 1996.[28]
Mayor of Nikšić is the head of the town and municipality of Nikšić. He acts on behalf of the town, and performs an executive function in the municipality of Nikšić. Current mayor isMarko Kovačević, member of the right-wingDemocratic Front.
List of Mayors since introduction of multi-party system (1990–present):
Nikšić is situated in north-central Montenegro. It is located at the centre of the spaciousNikšić field (Nikšićko polje), akarst plain[29] with an area of 48 km2, and an elevation of 640 mAMSL. The plain is surrounded by inhospitable rocky mountainous terrain, a typical landscape of western Montenegro. The city itself is located at the foot of theTrebjesa hill.
Zeta river originates in theNikšić field, and flows near the city of Nikšić, before it becomes asubterranean river south of the city. The river caused frequent flooding of the plain, until the construction ofHydroelectric power plantPerućica in 1960. The construction of the power plant resulted in creation of three largeartificial lakes near the city -Krupac Lake,Slano Lake andVrtac Lake. Today, the lakes are a popular recreation and relaxation retreats for the citizens of Nikšić.
Under theKöppen climate classification, Nikšić has anoceanic climate (Cfb), which is influenced by theMediterranean climate drying trend during summer.[30] The average temperature in January is 1.7 °C (35.1 °F), while in July it is 20.4 °C (68.7 °F). Average humidity amounts to 69%. Nikšić receives 2,238 hours of sunshine per year, with warm and moderately wet summers, and cool and rainy winters. On average, there are 19 days per year with snowfall.
Climate data for Nikšić (1991–2020, extremes 1949–present)
An older picture of NikšićVuka Mićunovića in Nikšić
Although Nikšić area has seen human settlements since antiquity, most of the modern Nikšić is aplanned city. Very little remains of theOttoman architectural heritage, despite the long presence ofOttoman Empire in the area. The city layout visible today still follows the 1883 urban plan commissioned byKing Nicholas and designed byCroatian architect Josip Slade.
According to this plan, the streets of Nikšić radiate to the north and east from the central city square (today aroundabout), locally known asSkver. The radial streets are intersected by circumferential streets and avenues, thus creating a half-spider web-like street layout.
Layers of different architectural styles and urban patterns are evident along the radial network of streets. Thus, closest to the central roundabout is the historical core of Nikšić, formed after the liberation from Ottoman Empire, and serving as a nucleus for Slade's urban plan. This area, on the foot ofTrebjesa Hill, is home toKing Nicholas Palace, City Park, andFreedom Square, main city square located along the centralNjegoševa Street. The area is composed of mostly single or two storeyrow housing with basic designs, an architecture typical for late 19th and early 20th centuries Montenegro. The roundabout and the surrounding area is still the focal point of activities in the city, as bus and train stations, as well as commercial and civic services are located in the area.
Freedom Square in Nikšić on the eve of the Statehood Day 2018 as seen from the south
Farther from the central roundabout, the historical core is encircled with a layer of mass residential blocks, built during theSFRY era. The building of the highrise residential blocks facilitated housing of the large population drawn to the city by rapid post-World War II industrialisation. The SFRY era apartment blocks are still home for the majority of residents of Nikšić.
Beyond the blocks, the city expanded in form of asuburban sprawl, that consists ofdetached housing. Close to the city blocks and major industrial areas, the lowrise single home suburbs are built with well executed urban plans, but farther away from the center, the city expanded in a chaotic and informal way. In addition, the rural areas south of Nikšić have merged with the city, so low density suburbs extend from the city in every direction, covering much of theNikšić Field.
King Nikola's PalaceChurch of St. Basil of Ostrog in Nikšić
Although mostly perceived as an industrial center, Nikšić is also a city of rich cultural heritage. The most significant cultural institution in the city isCentar Za Kulturu (Cultural Center), which incorporates the city's major public cultural establishments:
The most significant cultural event in the city isSeptembarski Dani Kulture (September days of Culture), that is one of the most recognizable cultural happenings in Montenegro. Other annual artistic events includePjesnik na korzu (Poet on the promenade),Međunarodni festival glumca (International actors festival),Međunarodni festival kamerne muzike (International festival of chamber music),Međunarodni festival gitare (International guitar festival).Lake Fest rock festival, held annually at Krupac lake andBedem Fest rock festival, held at Bedem Castle are gaining ground as one of the most recognizable music festivals in the former Yugoslav region.[citation needed]
Nikšić is known for its distinctive cultural atmosphere andbohemian art scene, with poetVitomir Nikolić and singers/songwriters likeMiladin Šobić orMarinko Pavićević as prominent representatives of the Nikšić bohemian spirit.Živko Nikolić, a native of Nikšić, is considered the most significant Montenegrin movie director.[citation needed]
Media scene of Nikšić is mostly confined topublic broadcastersTV Nikšić andRadio Nikšić, and a number of commercial radio stations.Riječ andLuča magazines, published by theFaculty of Philology and theFaculty of Philosophy respectively, as well asPoznanstva children magazine, are also a part of Nikšić cultural scene.
Nikšić is home to 40 educational institutions. Among those are 11 nurseries, 25 elementary schools of which one is elementary music school and 4 high schools, including the Stojan Cerović Gymnasium.
Faculty of Philosophy - a complex educational and scientific institution which organizes undergraduate, specialist and postgraduate studies as well as doctoral studies within its main activities. Two institutes operate within the faculty:
Nikšić is regarded as one of the centers of Montenegrin sport. Thecombat sports are particularly popular in Nikšić, with a strong tradition injudo,karate andboxing. Nikšić judokas have been exceptionally successful at international competitions.
In basketball, not only has Nikšić produced great players (Bojan Dubljevic or Ana Pocek for example), but the local teamKK Sutjeska Nikšić became champions of theMontenegrin Basketball Cup in 2013.
Other team sports, particularlyhandball andvolleyball, are also popular in Nikšić.
Nikšić is administrative centre ofNikšić Municipality, which incorporates a densely populated fertile plain called "Župa", and has a population of 65,705 (2023. census).[34]
Nikšić Municipality can be viewed as ametropolitan area of the city of Nikšić.
Nikšić is, alongside Podgorica, one of the biggest industrial centres of Montenegro. Asteel mill (Nikšićka Željezara),bauxite mine, theTrebjesa brewery (Nikšićka Pivara), and many more are concentrated in this city.
These big industries had struggled to survive the collapse of thesocialist economy, but have since recovered. The process ofprivatization is either finished or still in progress for some of these industries.
Today those industry giants cannot employ as many workers as they could back in the days ofSocialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia, and the economy of Nikšić is slowly transforming into one that is more service-oriented. In 1981 Niksic's GDP per capita was 91% of the Yugoslav average.[37]
Nikšić's main road connection isE762 highway, which connects Nikšić with Podgorica to the southeast, and withPlužine and on to theFoča andSarajevo (Bosnia and Hercegovina) to the northwest. Another recently reconstructed north/south Montenegrin road corridor passes through Nikšić, theRisan/Trebinje-Nikšić-Šavnik-Žabljak road. This road is the shortest connection Nikšić has withBay of Kotor and Montenegrin coast. Nikšić also has the distinction of being one of the first Montenegrin towns to have abypass road. The bypass, built during theSFRY era, has been upgraded in 2011, and now services every transit corridor of Nikšić, directing all transit traffic away from the urban core. Like many cities in the former Yugoslavia, Nikšić is the hub of multipleintercity bus companies, the largest of them beingGlušica Nikšić and4 Decembar Nikšić which operate to destinations as far asSarajevo andBelgrade.
This rail link has been used mainly to transport bauxite from Nikšić bauxite mine toPodgorica Aluminium Plant. It is currently under reconstruction and electrification, and passenger service will be reintroduced once the reconstruction is completed. ThreeCAF CivityEMUs have been ordered byRailways of Montenegro specifically to serve this railway, cutting the travel time between Nikšić and Podgorica to only 50 minutes. The first of the new trains will go into service on 1 June 2013.[38][39]
Nikšić obtained itsnarrow-gauge (760 mm (2 ft 5+15⁄16 in)) railway connection withBosnia and Herzegovina viaBileća andTrebinje when the railway line was extended from Bileća and opened in 1938. Not far from Trebinje, the narrow-gauge line used to branch off in three directions: towardsČapljina in Bosnia and Herzegovina,Zelenika inBay of Kotor in Montenegro (a dead end), andDubrovnik inCroatia (also a dead end). After reaching Čapljina, the line used to run to the south, to thePloče harbour in Croatia, and to the north, to the rest of the world viaMostar andSarajevo.[40] The narrow-gauge extension from Nikšić to Titograd (Podgorica), built by youth work brigades, was opened in 1948. That extension was converted to standard gauge (1,435 mm (4 ft 8+1⁄2 in)) in 1965.[41] The narrow-gauge line from Nikšić to Čapljina was closed down in 1976 and dismantled soon after.[42]
Nikšić Airport is located on the western outskirts of the city. It is a small sport airport, that caters to needs ofgeneral aviation, and of local enthusiast aviation club. After significant reconstruction and expansion, the airport was chosen to be a host of 2010FAI World Parachuting Championships.[43] Scheduled passenger service has yet to be introduced.
^According to the 2011 census, 43.75% of Nikšić residents identified Montenegrin as their mother tongue, while 45.44% declared Serbian. An additional 6.23% opted not to respond to the language question.[2] As both languages share the same script, both are used in the introductory naming.
^Trebinje Šuma is the forested area between Trebinje and Poljica Popovo, along the riverTrebišnjica
^Statistical Office of Montenegro - MONSTAT. "Population of Montenegro by sex, type of settlement, ethnicity, religion and mother tongue".Census 2011 - Releases(PDF). p. 12. Table 5a.MONSTAT webpage
_01.jpg)
