Lower Neretva Valley - pictured from behind the walls ofPočitelj, looking north and upstream towards Počitelj village and its Citadel, and further behindMostar
Neretva +Trebišnjica watershed (in Bosnia-Herzegovina highlighted in red and green)
TheNeretva (pronounced[něreːtʋa],Serbian Cyrillic:Неретва), also known asNarenta, is one of the largest rivers of the eastern part of theAdriatic basin. Fourhydroelectric power plants withlarge dams (higher than 15 metres)[2] provide flood protection, electricity and water storage. The Neretva is recognized for its natural environment and diverse landscapes.[3]
The Neretva flows through Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia before reaching theAdriatic Sea. It is the largestkarst river in the Dinaric Alps in the eastern part of the Adriatic basin/watershed. Its total length is 225 kilometres (140 miles), of which 208 kilometres (129 miles) are in Bosnia and Herzegovina, while the final 22 kilometres (14 miles) are in theDubrovnik-Neretva County of Croatia.[9]
The Neretva watershed is 11,798 square kilometres (4,555 sq mi) in total; in Bosnia and Herzegovina 11,368 square kilometres (4,389 sq mi) with the addition of theTrebišnjica river watershed and in Croatia, 430 square kilometres (170 sq mi).[1] The average discharge at profile Žitomislići in Bosnia and Herzegovina is 233 cubic metres per second (8,200 cu ft/s) and at the mouth in Croatia is 341 cubic metres per second (12,000 cu ft/s) in addition to the Trebišnjica River's 402 cubic metres per second (14,200 cu ft/s). TheTrebišnjica River basin is included in the Neretva watershed due to a physical link of the two basins by the porous karst terrain.
The hydrological parameters of Neretva are regularly monitored in Croatia atMetković.[10]
View on the river Neretva, U-shaped turn with plateau and village Lug at the outskirts ofJablanica, summer 2010
Geographically and hydrologically the Neretva is divided into three sections.[11]
Its source and headwatersgorge are situated deep in the Dinaric Alps at the base of theZelengora andLebršnik mountains, specifically under theGredelj saddle. The river source is at 1,227meters above sea level and consists of five small and distinct wellsprings. On its 90 kilometers course through the first section the Neretva cuts two distinct deep and narrow canyons and two distinct wide and fertile valleys, aroundUlog and thenŽupa Komska, wider area aroundGlavatičevo, before it reaches town ofKonjic. This section is also better known as theUpper Neretva (Serbo-Croatian:Gornja Neretva), and here river flows generally from east-southeast to north-northwest as do most Bosnia and Herzegovina rivers belonging to theDanube watershed, and covers some 1,390 square kilometres (540 sq mi) with an average elevation of 1.2%. Right below Konjic, the Neretva again expands into a third and largest valley which provided fertile agricultural land before it was flooded by large artificial reservoir,Jablaničko Lake, formed after construction of aJablanica Dam near town ofJablanica.[11][12]
The Neretva headwaters - First of three distinct canyons, just downstream ofUlog The Neretva rich fresh water karstic aquifer - Second of three distinct canyons, just downstream ofGlavatičevo and beforeKonjic
The second section begins from the confluence of the Neretva and theRama between Konjic and Jablanica where the Neretva suddenly takes almost 180° degrees turn toward east-southeast and flows the short leg before reaches town of Jablanica, from which point turns again toward south. From Jablanica, the Neretva enters third and the largest canyon on its course, running through the steep slopes mountains ofPrenj,Čvrsnica andČabulja reaching 800–1,200 metres (2,625–3,937 feet) in depth. Threehydroelectric dams operate between Jablanica andMostar.[12]
When the Neretva expands for the second and final time, it reaches its third section. This area is often colloquially called the"Bosnian and Herzegovinian California". The last 30 kilometres (19 miles) of its course forms wide alluvial delta, before the river empties into theAdriatic Sea.[13]
Upper Neretva Valley, area of Glavatičevo village, upstream from KonjicRakitnica river and its canyon.
The upper course of the Neretva river is simply called theUpper Neretva(Serbo-Croatian:Gornja Neretva). It includes numerous streams and well-springs, three major glacial lakes near the river and more lakes scattered across the mountains ofTreskavica andZelengora in the wider area, mountains, peaks and forests, flora and fauna of the area. The Upper Neretva has water of Class I purity.[14] Rising from the base of theZelengora andLebršnik Mountain, Neretva headwaters run in undisturbed rapids and waterfalls, carving steep gorges reaching 600–800 metres (2,000–2,600 ft) in depth.
TheRakitnica is the main tributary of the first section(Serbo-Croatian:Gornja Neretva). The Rakitnica River forms a 26 km (16 miles) long canyon, out of its 32 km (20 miles) length, that stretches betweenBjelašnica andVisočica to the southeast fromSarajevo.[15]
Railway bridge over the Grabovica fl. in the Neretva's middle section canyon, cca.1970, 10 yrs. prior formation of artificial lakeRailway bridge over the Drežanka fl. in the Neretva's middle section canyon, cca.1970, 10 yrs. prior formation of artificial lakeMostarska Bijela valley, view from 2000 m.a.s.l.
Hydrographically the Middle Neretva section begins from the town of Konjic, but after the construction ofJablanica Hydroelectric Power Station and flooding of the large fertile valley between Konjic and Jablanica, known simply as "Neretva" since Middle Ages. The new point for hydrographical division became the dam of the Jablanica HPP where there also is a place of confluence of the rivers Neretva andRama. Here the Neretva river suddenly takes an almost 180° turn towards the east-southeast and flows for a short leg before it reaches the town of Jablanica. From this point it turns again toward the south and enters the third and largest canyon on its course, running through the steep slopes of the mountains ofPrenj,Čvrsnica, andČabulja, reaching between 800–1,200 metres (2,625–3,937 feet) in depth. This section is characterized by a steep and relatively narrow canyon, and ruggedkarstic geology and hydrology.
Four enormous vale-size rifts appear in the mountainsides forming canyon walls, two from each side of the river, intersecting with the main canyon almost perpendicularly. The Neretva receives only four small streams in this section, all running through these side vales, which are relatively short. Going downstream from Jablanica, the first two from each side are the Glogošnica stream, its eponymous canyon and small village on the left, and the Grabovica stream with its eponymous canyon and historical village, from the right side. Further downstream two much larger vales appear again on each side, first on the right the stream of Drežanka and its large and steep valley, with two eponymous villages,Donja (Lower) andGornja (Upper) Drežnica, and thanMostarska Bijela, as one of the most pristine vales in Bosnia and Herzegovina, with its eponymous uniquely characteristic subterranean stream, embedded deep into thePrenj mountain, on the left.
Although these streams are of low outflow, there are also numerous wellsprings rising on both sides of the canyon at the river banks, with high-capacity discharge.Three largehydroelectric power stations operate in this section of the Neretva, between Jablanica andMostar, namelyGrabovica HPP,Salakovac HPP andMostar HPP.[12]
Jablanica Lake and suspension bridge at Ostrožac village
Jablanica lake is a largeartificial lake on the Neretva river, right below Konjic where the Neretva expands into a wide valley. The river provided fertile, agricultural land before the lake flooded most of it. The lake was created in 1953 after construction of a large gravitational hydroelectric dam nearJablanica in central Bosnia and Herzegovina. The lake has an irregular, elongated shape, and its width varies along its length. The lake is a popular vacation destination.[2]
Downstream from the confluence of its tributaries, theTrebižat andBregava Rivers, the valley spreads into analluvial fan covering 20,000 hectares (49,000 acres). The upper valley, the 7,411 hectares in Bosnia and Herzegovina, is calledHutovo Blato.
The Neretva Delta has been recognised as a Ramsar site since 1992, andHutovo Blato since 2001. Both areas form one integrated Ramsar site that is a natural entity divided by the state border.[3] TheImportant Bird Areas programme, conducted byBirdlife International, covers protected areas in Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina.[16]
Since 1995, Hutovo Blato has been protected asHutovo Blato Nature Park[17][18] and managed by a public authority. The whole zone is protected from human impact and provides habitat for many plants and animals.[16] The historical site Old Fortress Hutovo Blato is in the Nature Park.
Gornje Blato-Deransko Lake is supplied by the karstic water sources of the Trebišnjica River, emerging from bordering hills. It is hydro-geologically connected to the Neretva River through its effluent, theKrupa River, formed out of five lakes (Škrka, Deranja, Jelim, Orah, Drijen). Large portions are permanently flooded and isolated by wide groves of reedbebds and trees. It represents a more interesting preserved area.[18]
The Krupa River is a Neretva left tributary and the main water current of Hutovo Blato, which carries the waters from Gornje Blato and Svitavsko Lake into the Neretva River. The length of Krupa is 9 km (6 miles) with an average depth of 5 metres (16 feet). The Krupa does not have a specific source, but is an arm ofDeransko Lake. Also, the Krupa is a unique river in Europe, because it flows both ways. It flows both towards and back from its mouth. This happens when a high water level causes Neretva to push Krupa in the opposite direction.[18]
Cultivated slots and natural marshes of the complex Neretva Delta
Passing towns and villages in Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Neretva spills out into theAdriatic Sea, building a wetland delta that is listed under theRamsar Convention as internationally important.[19][16]
The mouth of the Neretva river near port-town of Ploče, Croatia
In this lower alluvial valley in Croatia, the Neretva River splinters into multiple courses, creating a delta covering approximately 12,000 hectares. The delta in Croatia has been reduced by extensive land reclamation projects, reducing the river flows to just three branches from the original twelve. The marshes, lagoons and lakes that once dotted this plain have disappeared and only fragments of the oldMediterranean wetlands survive.[20] Wetlands, marshes and lagoons, lakes, beaches, rivers, hummocks (limestone hills) and mountains compose the delta, with five protected areas with a total area of 1,620 ha. These are ornithological, ichthyologic and landscape reserves.[20]
Dinaric karst water systems support 25% of the total of 546fish species in Europe, manyendemic.The Neretva River, together with four other areas in theMediterranean, has the largest number ofthreatened freshwater fish species.[21]The degree ofendemism in the karst ecoregion is greater than 10%. Multiple fish species have small habitats and arevulnerable, so they are included on theRed List of endangered fish as of 2006[update]. The Adriatic basin has 88 species of fish, of which 44 are Mediterranean endemic species, and 41 are Adriatic endemic species. More than half of the Adriatic river basin species of fish inhabit the Neretva, the Ombla, the Trebišnjica, theMorača Rivers and their tributaries, and more than 30 are endemic.[22]
Apike perch (Sander lucioperca Linnaeus 1758)[23] (also seeSander) population in the Neretva River watershed was observed in 1990 for the first time. The Rama River, a right tributary of the Neretva, and itsRama Lake received an unknown quantity of thisallochthonous species. Population estimates have increased in the Neretva accumulation lakes. This fact confirms previous scientific assumptions of Škrijelj (1991, 1995), who predicted the possibility of pike perchdisplacement (migration) from Ramsko Lake to the Rama River and then further downstream to the river and its lakes.In 1990 the perch population made up 1.95% of the fish population in Rama Lake. Within a decade this rose to 25.42% in the nearbyJablaničko Lake.
Pike perch causes clearly visible, negative effects on the autochthonous species inJablaničko Lake. In Salakovačko Lake these effects are in progress, although less visible, while in Grabovičko Lake it is not yet clearly visible.
All three endemic trout species of the Neretva are endangered, mostly due to thehabitat destruction or construction of large/major dams ("large" is higher than 15–20 m; "major" is over 150–250 m).[2] Other problems includehybridization orgenetic pollution withintroduced, non-native trouts, illegal fishing and poor water andfisheries management.[29][30]
Especially interesting are fivePhoxinellus (sub)species that inhabit isolatedkarstic plains (fields) of eastern as well as westernHerzegovina in Bosnia and Herzegovina, which eventually reach the Neretva watershed and/or coastal drainages of south-easternDalmatia.
Spotted minnow (Phoxinellus adspersus), is endemic in the Tihaljina River, which is fed by underground waters fromImotsko field and is connected to theTrebižat river via the Mlada River. It also occurs in Mostarsko Blato wetlands. Fish were found in the source of the Norin River, a right-hand tributary of the lower Neretva atMetković, in Croatia, at Kuti Lake, a left-hand tributary of the lower Neretva, at Imotsko field inRed Lake (Croatia) and theVrljika river drainage and nearVrgorac in the Matica River system.[32] It is considered vulnerable.
Neretvan nase (also Dalmatian nase and Dalmatian soiffe) (Chondrostoma knerii)[33] is endemic to the Neretva. Neretvan nase is mainly distributed in the lower parts and delta, the Krupa River, Nature Park Hutovo Blato wetlands and Neretva Delta wetlands. It occurs in water bodies with little current. It is threatened by habitat destruction and pollution.[34] It is consideredEndangered (EN).
Adriatic dace also Balkan dace (Squalius svallize alsoLeuciscus svallize Heckel & Kner 1858)[35] is a vulnerable endemic, although also found inMontenegro andAlbania. Adults inhabit water bodies on the low plains, with little current and in lakes. They feed on invertebrates. It is threatened due to pollution, habitat destruction and due to introduction of other species.
Illyrian dace (Squalius illyricus alsoLeuciscus illyricus Heckel & Kner 1858)[36] inhabits karstic waters of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia and Albania. It occurs in water courses on low plains, with little current. It feeds on invertebrates. It is stressed by habitat destruction, pollution and introduced species. It is consideredNear Threatened (NT).
Turskyi dace (Leuciscus turskyi alsoSqualius turskyi turskyi andTelestes turskyi)[37] inhabits karstic waters, lakeBuško Blato and theKrka andČikola rivers. It occurs on the low plains, with little current and in lakes. It feeds on invertebrates. Threats include water abstraction and pollution. It is consideredCritically Endangered (CR).
TheNeretvan spined loach (Cobitis narentana Karaman, 1928) is an Adriatic watershed endemic that inhabits a narrow area of the Neretva watershed in Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina.[39]In Bosnia and Herzegovina it inhabits only the lower Neretva and its smaller tributaries like theMatica River.In Croatia it is a strictlyprotected species and inhabits only the Neretva delta and its smaller tributaries, the (Norin) and lake systems of the Neretva delta (Baćina lakes, Kuti,Desne,Modro oko).[39] It is consideredVulnerable (VU).
The Neretva delta hosts more than 20 endemic species, of which 18 are endemic to the Adriatic watershed, along with three endemic species in Croatia. Nearly half (45%) of the total number of species that inhabit this area are included in one of the categories of threat and are mainly endemic.[22]
The benefits brought byhydroelectric dams have come at an environmental and social cost.[40]The waters of the Neretva river with its two main tributaries, the Rama and the Trebišnjica, are already harnessed by nineHydroelectric power plants withlarge dams, four on the Neretva's main stream, one with a major dam on the Rama tributary, and another four on the Trebišnjica River (one of these being in Croatia).[2]
There are additionally a number of hydroelectric power station of various capacities on smaller tributaries, such asMostarsko Blato Hydroelectric Power Station on theLištica (downstream from HPP named Jasenica),Peć Mlini Hydroelectric Power Station on theTrebižat, and numeroussmall hydro projects on the small river tributaries like Tatinac, Trešanica, Neretvica and Duščica, with a proposed small hydro on the rivers Doljanka, Glogošnica, and one abandoned on theIdbar.
The government of the Bosnia and Herzegovina has unveiled plans to build three more hydroelectric power plants with dams over 150.5 metres in height[2] upstream from the existing plants, beginning withGlavaticevo Hydro Power Plant in the village ofGlavatičevo, then going upstream to Bjelimići Hydro Power Plant and Ljubuča Hydro Power Plant located near the eponymous villages; and another, by the Republic of Srpska, at the Neretva headwaters gorge, near the source of the river. It is similarly opposed by environmental organizations and NGO's, such as Zeleni-Neretva Konjic[41] and theWorld Wildlife Fund.[5][19][42][43][44]
Meanwhile, Bosnia and Herzegovina entity,Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, was preparing a parallel plan to form a large, protected area as a national park which would include the entire region of Gornja Neretva(English:Upper Neretva), and have within the park the three hydroelectric plants. The latest idea is that the park should be divided in two, where the Neretva should be excluded from both and would become the boundary between parks. Those who oppose the plan wish to have the area turned into theNational Park of Upper Neretva and would leave the park without substantial development.[40][45][46]
Since the 2000s, the other entity of Bosnia,Republica Srpska, has developed plans to construct up to eight Hydroelectric power plants, sevensmall hydroelectric power plants, and onelarge, namelyHE Ulog, on the stretch of the Neretva with highecological value, which lies within the entity's administrative lines.[47] This stretch consists of around 40 kilometers of the course of the Neretva between its source and the entity boundary atLjusići village. Opposition to these plans, and ongoing construction ofHE Ulog in particular, attracted both domestic and international experts, activists and public, who voiced their opposition with scientific arguments, even taking the issue toEuropean Council.[48] Irregularities in planning and design, the flawedenvironmental impact study and the complete absence of research work on the ground related to the geological instability of the terrain, as well as irregularities in the implementation of tenders and the issuance of environmental and construction permits, are particularly noteworthy. In the environmental impact study, the only significant impact, one that should be reflected on the downstream part of the Neretva watercourse, is completely ignored. Such drastic disregard in planning and designing, considering that the facilities ofHE Ulog are located on the very line of demarcation of two ethnically based entities, which makes the downstream of the river located entirely in another administrative entity, where all the ecological consequences resulting from the use of Neretva water and the production of electricity will be felt exclusively, introduces, besides environmental, also an ethnic and political dimension to the issue.[49][50]
In recent times theRepublic of Srpska government finished the project namedThe Upper Horizons (Serbo-Croatian:Gornji horizonti), a large hydroelectric project that diverted underground waters in the Neretva watershed to the Trebišnjica plant and others in the Trebišnjica basin. This project was opposed by NGO's in Bosnia and Herzegovina and Croatia. They argued that the project would increasesalinity levels of every surface and underground water on the right bank of the Neretva, damage internationally recognizedRamsar sites, a protectedNature ParkHutovo Blato in Bosnia and Herzegovina, protectedNeretva Delta in Croatia, and important reservoirs of freshwater, plus agricultural lands in the lower Neretva valley.[51][52][53][54]
During antiquity, the Neretva was known as Narenta,Narona and Naro(n),[55][56][57] and was the inland[58] home to the ancientIllyrian tribe ofArdiaei. They became ship builders, seafarers and fishermen. Archaeological discoveries of Illyrian culture dealt both with daily and religious life such as the discovery of ancient Illyrian shipwrecks found in Hutovo Blato, in the vicinity of the Neretva River.[59]
Desilo archaeological underwater site at Hutovo Blato
After intenseexcavations in the area of Hutovo Blato in the autumn of 2008,archaeologists from Bosnia and HerzegovinaUniversity of Mostar andSwedenUniversity of Lund found traces of an Illyriantrading post that was more than two thousand years old.The find is unique in a European perspective andarchaeologists have concluded thatDesilo, as the location is called, was an important trading post of great significance for contact between the Illyrians and theRomans.Archaeological finds include theruins of asettlement, theremains of aharbour that probably functioned as a trading post, as well as many sunken boats, fully laden with winepitchers – so-calledamphorae – from the 1st century BC.[60]Archaeologist Adam Lindhagen claimed that it was the most important Illyrian ruin.[61][62]
One of the most significant monuments ofRoman times in Bosnia and Herzegovina isMogorjelo. Located 1 kilometer south of the town ofČapljina, Mogorjelo remnants of the old Roman suburbanVilla Rustica from the 4th century represents ancient Roman agricultural production and estate, mills, bakeries, olive oil refinery and forges.[63]The Villa was destroyed in the middle of the 4th century, during the invasion of westernGoths. Surviving residents did not restore it to its original splendor.The name of Mogorjelo is thought to be derived either from the Slavic word for "burn" (Slavic – goriti) or that at the end of the 5th century the church was built on the ruins of the Villa, and was dedicated toSt. Hermagor – Mogoru.[64]
TheOld Bridge was commissioned bySuleiman the Magnificent in 1557 to replace an older wooden suspension bridge. Construction began in 1557 and took nine years: according to the inscription the bridge was completed in 974AH, corresponding to the period between 19 July 1566 and 7 July 1567. Memories and legends and the name of the builder, Mimar Hayruddin (student of the Old/Great Sinan (Mimar Sinan / Koca Sinan), the Ottoman architect) were preserved in writing. Charged under pain of death to construct a bridge of such unprecedented dimensions, the architect reportedly prepared for his own funeral on the day the scaffolding was finally removed from the completed structure. Upon its completion it was the widest man-made arch in the world. Associated technical issues remain obscure: how the scaffolding was erected, how the stone was transported from one bank to the other, and how the scaffolding was maintained during construction. On 9 November 1993, during thewar in Bosnia and Herzegovina it was destroyed by sustainedartillery shelling.[65] After the war, immediate plans were raised to reconstruct the bridge as a symbol of peace and ethnic harmony, literally bridging the two sides of the conflict. They attempted to reuse as much original material as possible. Salvage operations, funded by the international community, raised the stones and the remains of the bridge from the river bed. Missing elements or parts that were not usable were cut from the originalquarry.Now listed as aWorld Heritage Site, the bridge was rebuilt under the aegis ofUNESCO. Its 1,088 stones were shaped according to the original techniques, at a cost of about €12 million. The grand opening was held on 23 July 2004.[citation needed]
Fortified Počitelj looking downstream the Neretva
It is traditional for the town's young men to leap from the 24 metres (79 ft) bridge into the Neretva. The practice dates back to 1566, the time the bridge was built, and an event was held every summer in front of the populace. The first recorded instance of someone diving off the bridge is from 1664. In 1968 a formal diving competition was inaugurated and held every summer.[66]
Počitelj is situated on a hill near Mostar and is easily accessible by bus. As with many other Bosnian sites, this town is Ottoman in design. It is a historic fortified town with a hostel (caravanserai) and ahamam beneath. A traditional mosque is there. During theBosnian War Počitelj was badly damaged and most of its residents fled and never returned[67]
Bridge that was the focal point of the Battle of Neretva
TheBattle of Neretva is a 1969Oscar-nominated motion picture depicting events from theSecond World War and the actualBattle of the Neretva. CodenamedFall Weiß, the operation was a German plan for a combined attack launched in early 1943 againstYugoslav Partisans throughout occupiedYugoslavia. The offensive took place between January and April 1943. The operation used to be known, in socialist Yugoslav times, as theFourth Enemy Offensive, or as the Battle for the Wounded.
At one point during the battle, the Partisans were caught in a pocket with their back to the Neretva River. NearJablanica, 20,000 Partisans under command of MarshalJosip Broz Tito struggled to save some 4500 wounded comrades andtyphus patients together with the Supreme Headquarters and Main Hospital, against some 150,000 Axis combatants.[68]
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