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Nautical style, also known asmaritime fashion, is an iconic and enduring style of dress that has its roots in the traditional naval uniforms ofBritain andFrance. Over the years it has transitioned into civilian maritime attire, leisurewear, and a globally recognisable fashiongenre. Its ongoing appeal lies in its simplicity, durability, and clearly defined visual identity.
It has featured in the work of topfashion designers, most notablyCoco Chanel, who included a female version of themarinière in her 1917 collection, andJean Paul Gaultier, who relaunched it for men, as part of his Boy Toy collection, in 1983.
The first uniform regulations forofficers in the BritishRoyal Navy were issued in 1748, with the predominant colours beingdark blue, andwhite.[1] The distinctive dark shade of blue was being referred to in the press asnavy blue by at least 1780.[2] It was subsequently adopted by other navies around the world, and is now a key component of nautical style.
The popularity of nautical style as a fashion can be traced toQueen Victoria, who inspired a trend forchildren's wear that soon became widespread.[3] In 1846 she had a child’s sailor uniform made her sonPrince Albert, and the Queen recorded the first time he wore it in her diary;
"Bertie put on his sailor's dress, which was beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our sailors. When he appeared, the officers and sailors who were all assembled on deck to see him, cheered, and seemed delighted"
The iconic Frenchmarinière, now more commonly referred to as aBreton shirt, is a cotton top featuring horizontal navy blue and white stripes, and a staple of nautical style. It was first introduced as the official uniform of theFrench Navy in 1858, and traditionally had 21 stripes (reportedly one for each of Napoleon’s victories).[4] During theFirst World War,Coco Chanel regularly took seaside holidays and was inspired by the local sailors' uniforms. At her second shop inDeauville she launched the "Navy Style", a short marinière. It revolutionised women’s leisurewear with a distinctly nautical flair, and her marinières soon became sought-after luxury items.[5]
Breton shirts, as civilian menswear, were popularised byPablo Picasso who painted aself-portrait of himself wearing one in 1943,[6] but it wasn't until 1983, whenJean Paul Gaultier relaunched them as part of his "Boy Toy" collection, that they gained mainstream popularity.[7]
Yves Saint-Laurent was the first to bring the naval collar andreefer jacket to the catwalk in 1962. This novel collection was inspired by his friends on Paris' Left Bank, including Jean Cocteau, who were already dressing in utility wear.
Colours: The classic palette includes navy blue, white, red, and cream, often accented with gold buttons or rope motifs. These colours evoke naval tradition and oceanic life.
Stripes: Horizontal stripes—especially navy blue and white—are a signature element. The Breton stripe in particular has become synonymous with seaside chic.
Tailoring: Structured pieces like navy blazers, double-breasted coats, and gold-buttoned jackets give the style its formal, aristocratic edge, rooted in naval and yacht club uniforms.
Footwear: Thedeck shoe, originally invented in the 1930s for sailors due to its non-slip sole, is a foundational item. Espadrilles, white canvas sneakers, and deck loafers also make frequent appearances.
Fabrics: Traditional nautical clothing favours natural, durable fabrics such as cotton, wool, canvas, and linen—suited to both sea air and summer outings.
Accessories: Nautical fashion often includes accessories with maritime motifs—anchors, ropes, knots, and ship wheels—alongside sailor caps, duffle bags, and aviator sunglasses.
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