Natchez is approximately 90 miles (140 km) southwest of thecapital ofJackson and 85 miles (137 km) north ofBaton Rouge, Louisiana, located on the lower Mississippi River. Natchez is the28th-largest city in the state. The city was named for theNatchez people, who with their ancestors, inhabited much of the area from the 8th century AD through the French colonial period.
Established byFrench colonists in 1716, Natchez is one of the oldest and most important European settlements in the lowerMississippi River Valley. After the French lost theFrench and Indian War (Seven Years' War), they ceded Natchez and near territory toGreat Britain in theTreaty of Paris of 1763. (It later traded other territory east of the Mississippi River with Great Britain, which expanded what it called West Florida). The British Crown bestowed land grants in this territory to officers who had served with distinction in the war. These officers came mostly from the colonies of New York, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. They established plantations and brought their upper-class style of living to the area.
Beginning 1779, the area was under Spanish colonial rule. After defeat in the American Revolutionary War, Great Britain ceded the territory to the United States under the terms of the Treaty of Paris (1783). Spain was not a party to the treaty, and it was their forces who had taken Natchez from British troops. Although Spain had been allied with the American colonists, they were more interested in advancing their power at the expense of Britain. Once the war was over, they were not inclined to give up that which they had acquired by force.
In 1797 Major Andrew Ellicott of the United States marched to the highest ridge in the young town of Natchez, set up camp, and raised the first American Flag claiming Natchez and all former Spanish lands east of the Mississippi above the 31st parallel for the United States.
After the United States acquired this area from the Spanish, the city served as the capital of theMississippi Territory and then of the state ofMississippi. It predatesJackson by more than a century; the latter replaced Natchez as the capital in 1822, as it was more centrally located in the developing state. The strategic location of Natchez, on abluff overlooking theMississippi River, ensured that it would be a pivotal center of trade, commerce, and the interchange of ethnic Native American, European, and African cultures in the region; it held this position for two centuries after its founding.
In U.S. history, Natchez is recognized particularly for its role in the development of theOld Southwest during the first half of the 19th century. It was the southern terminus of the historicNatchez Trace, with the northern terminus beingNashville, Tennessee. After unloading their cargoes in Natchez orNew Orleans, manypilots and crew offlatboats andkeelboats traveled by the Trace overland to their homes in theOhio River Valley. (Given the strong current of the Mississippi River, it was not untilsteam-powered vessels were developed in the 1820s that travel northward on the river could be accomplished by large boats.) The Natchez Trace also played an important role during theWar of 1812. Today the modernNatchez Trace Parkway, which commemorates this route, still has its southern terminus in Natchez.
In the decades preceding the Civil War, Natchez was by far the most prevalent slave trading city in Mississippi, and second in the United States only to New Orleans.[5] The leading markets were located at theForks of the Road, at the intersection of Liberty Road and Washington Road (now D'Evereux Drive and St. Catherine Street). In 1833, the most active slavers in the United States,John Armfield andIsaac Franklin began a program of arbitraging low slave prices in the Middle Atlantic area by sending thousands of slaves to Deep South markets in Natchez and New Orleans. Their company,Franklin and Armfield sent an annual caravan of slaves, called a coffle, from Virginia to the Forks of the Road in Natchez, as well as sending others by ship through New Orleans. Unlike other slave sellers of the day, Franklin and Armfield sold slaves individually, with the buyers allowed to survey the people much like items in a modern retail store.[6]
In 1840, the city was struck bya devastating tornado that killed 317 people and injured 109. It ranks today as the second-deadliest tornado in U.S. history, although the death toll may be higher due to slave deaths not traditionally being counted in the South at that time.
In the middle of the nineteenth century, the city attracted wealthy Southern planters as residents, who builtmansions to fit their ambitions. Theirplantations were vast tracts of land in the surrounding lowlands along the river fronts of Mississippi and Louisiana, where they grew large commodity crops ofcotton andsugarcane usingslave labor. Natchez became the principalport from which these crops were exported, both upriver to Northern cities and downriver to New Orleans, where much of the cargo was exported to Europe. Many of the mansions built by planters before 1860 survive and form a major part of the city's architecture and identity. Agriculture remained the primary economic base for the region until well into the twentieth century.
During theAmerican Civil War Natchez was surrendered by Confederate forces without a fight in September 1862. Following the Union victory at theBattle of Vicksburg in July 1863, many refugees, including former slaves, freed by theEmancipation Proclamation, began moving into Natchez and the surrounding countryside. The Union Army officers claimed to be short on resources and unable to provide for the refugees. The Army planned to address the situation with a mixture of paid labor for freed slaves on government leased plantations, the enlistment of able-bodied males who were willing to fight in the Union Army and the establishment of refugee camps where former slaves could be provided with education. However, as the war continued, the plan was never effectively implemented and the leased plantations were crowded, poorly managed and frequently raided by Confederate troops who controlled the surrounding territory. Hundreds of people living in Natchez, including many former slaves and refugees, died of hunger, disease, overwork or were killed in the fighting during this period.[7] In order to manage the tens of thousands of freed Black slaves, the Union Army created a refugee camp in Natchez in a natural pit known as theDevil's Punchbowl, where thousands died of starvation, smallpox, and other diseases.[unreliable source?][8][9]
After the American Civil War, the city's economy rapidly revived, mostly due to Natchez having been spared the destruction visited upon many other parts of the South. From 1870 to 1871,Robert H. Wood served as Mayor of Natchez; he was the one of only five African Americans to serve as mayor during the Reconstruction-era, and he was one of the first black mayors in the entire country.[10][11][12] Natchez was also home to politiciansHiram Rhodes Revels andJohn R. Lynch, both African Americans.
The municipality regulated transportation and commerce with Vidalia, Louisiana by setting tariffs on goods and fares on the ferry even giving a monthly rate for school children.[13]
The vitality of the city and region was captured most significantly in the 80 years or so following the war by the photographers Henry C. Norman and his son Earl. The output of theNorman Studio between roughly 1870 and 1950 documents this period in Natchez's development vividly; the photographs are now preserved as the Thomas and Joan Gandy Collection in special collections of the library ofLouisiana State University in Baton Rouge.
During the twentieth century, the city's economy experienced a downturn, first due to the replacement of steamboat traffic on the Mississippi River byrailroads in the early 1900s, some of which bypassed the river cities and drew away their commerce. Later in the 20th century, many local industries closed in a restructuring that sharply reduced the number of jobs in the area. Despite its status as a popular destination forheritage tourism because of well-preservedantebellum architecture, Natchez has had a general decline in population since 1960. It remains the principal city of theNatchez micropolitan area.
According to theUnited States Census Bureau, the city has a total area of 13.9 square miles (36 km2), of which 13.2 square miles (34 km2) are land and 0.6 square miles (1.6 km2) (4.62%) is water. The physical characteristic that controls the land use within the municipality are the natural drains which the locals call 'bayous' and their network of deep ravines across the landscape.[14] The elevation of the Mississippi River at Natchez is approximately 46 feet and the river gauge reference point for Natchez being 17.28 feet.[15][16] The Natchez bluffs are composed ofstrata that might indicate a later geological event that cut a trench into the bluffs depositing a soil variation.[17]
As of thecensus of 2000,[22][23] there were 18,464 people, 7,591 households, and 4,858 families residing in the city. The population density was 1,398.3 inhabitants per square mile (539.9/km2). There were 8,479 housing units at an average density of 642.1 per square mile (247.9/km2).
In 2000, the racial and ethnic makeup of the city was 54.49%African American, 44.18%White, 0.38%Asian, 0.11%Native American, 0.02%Pacific Islander, 0.18% fromother races, and 0.63% from two or more races. 0.70% of the population wereHispanic orLatino of any race. Since then, with the publication of the 2020 census, its racial and ethnic makeup was 60.12% African American, 35.51% non-Hispanic white, 0.11% Native American, 0.5% Asian, 0.01% Pacific Islander, 2.36% other or mixed, and 1.38% Hispanic or Latino of any race.
Natchez is home toAlcorn State University's Natchez Campus, which offers the School of Nursing, the School of Business, and graduate business programs. The School of Business offersMaster of Business Administration (MBA) degree and other business classes from its Natchez campus. The MBA program attracts students from a wide range of academic disciplines and preparation from the Southwest Mississippi area and beyond offering concentrations in general business, gaming management and hospitality management.[25] Both schools in the Natchez campus provide skills which has enabled community students to have an important impact on the economic opportunities of people in Southwest Mississippi.[26]
Copiah-Lincoln Community College also operates a campus in Natchez.[27] Adams County is in the district of Copiah–Lincoln Community College and has been since 1971.[28]
The city of Natchez and Adams County are in the boundary of one public school system, theNatchez-Adams School District.[29] The district comprises ten schools. They are Susie B. West, Morgantown, Gilmer McLaurin, Joseph F. Frazier, Robert Lewis Magnet School, Natchez Freshman Academy, Natchez Early College@Co-Lin, Central Alternative School,Natchez High School, and Fallin Career and Technology Center.
In Natchez, there are a number of private and parochial schools.Adams County Christian School (ACCS) is also a PK-12 school in the city. Adams County Christian School was founded as a segregation academy[30] and is a member of theMississippi Association of Independent Schools (MAIS). Cathedral School is also a PK-12 school in the city. It is affiliated with the Roman CatholicSt. Mary Basilica. Holy Family Catholic School, founded in 1890, is a PK-3 school affiliated with Holy Family Catholic Church.
Campbell Brown,Emmy Award-winning journalist, political anchor for CNN; grew up in Natchez and attended both Trinity Episcopal and Cathedral High School
Richard Wright, novelist, author ofBlack Boy andNative Son, born on Rucker plantation inRoxie, twenty-two miles east of Natchez; lived in Natchez as a child
Robert H. Wood (1844–?), politician, first African American mayor in the United States, former mayor of Natchez[11]
In the opening narration ofThe Apartment (1960), C.C. Baxter mentions the company he works for "has 31,259 employees, which is more than the entire population of Natchez, Mississippi."
Ta-Nehisi Coates' 2019 novel,The Water Dancer, alludes constantly to the threat, in antebellum Virginia, represented to slaves by the possibility of being sold "down Natchez way," that is, into harshest slavery.
^City of Natchez. G.B. Sheilds. (1905). Code of ordinances of the city of Natchez with contracts, franchises, etc. Natchez, Mississippi: Natchez Printing and Stationery Company. p. 246.The Internet Archive website. Retrieved 6 May 2025.
^“THE NATCHEZ PLAN: A LONG-RANGE PROGRAM FOR IMPROVING A MISSISSIPPI CITY.”Landscape Architecture, vol. 42, no. 3, 1952, p. 102.JSTOR website Retrieved 4 May 2025.
^Impact Newsletter. Mississippi Levee Board. (2022). "Back in time: River gauges" Spring 2022. v. 20. no. 1.Mississippi Levee Board website Retrieved 28 May 2025.
^State of Mississippi. State Geological Commission. William N. Logan. (1908) "The Clays of Mississippi." Mississippi State Geological Survey. Bulletin No. 4. Part 2. "Brick clays and clay industry in Southern Mississippi." pp. 22–24.Mississippi Department of Environmental Quality website. Retrieved 28 May 2025.
^abWho Was Who in America, Historical Volume, 1607–1896. Chicago: Marquis Who's Who. 1963.ISBN1-299-64851-7.{{cite book}}:ISBN / Date incompatibility (help)
^Barth, Jack (1991).Roadside Hollywood: The Movie Lover's State-By-State Guide to Film Locations, Celebrity Hangouts, Celluloid Tourist Attractions, and More. Contemporary Books. Page 170.ISBN9780809243266
Anderson, Aaron D.Builders of a New South: Merchants, Capital, and the Remaking of Natchez, 1865–1914. Jackson, Mississippi: University Press of Mississippi, 2013.
Boler, Jaime Elizabeth.City under Siege: Resistance and Power in Natchez, Mississippi, 1719–1857, PhD. University of Southern Mississippi,Dissertation Abstracts International 2006 67(3): 1061-A. DA3209667, 393 pp.
Brazy, Martha Jane.An American Planter: Stephen Duncan of Antebellum Natchez and New York, Louisiana State University Press, 2006. 232 pp.
Broussard, Joyce L. "Occupied Natchez, Elite Women, and the Feminization of the Civil War,"Journal of Mississippi History, 2008 70(2): 179–207.
Broussard, Joyce L.Stepping Lively in Place: The Not-Married, Free Women of Civil War-Era Natchez, Mississippi. Athens, Georgia: University of Georgia Press, 2016.
Cox, James L.The Mississippi Almanac. New York: Computer Search & Research, 2001.ISBN0-9643545-2-7.
Davis, Jack E.Race Against Time: Culture and Separation in Natchez Since 1930, Baton Rouge: Louisiana State University Press, 2001.
Davis, Ronald L. F.Good and Faithful Labor: from Slavery to Sharecropping in the Natchez District 1860–1890, Westport, Connecticut: Greenwood Press, 1982.
Dittmer, John.Local People: The Civil Rights Movement in Mississippi. Urbana, Illinois: University of Illinois Press, 1994.
Dolensky, Suzanne T. "Natchez in 1920: On the Threshold of Modernity."Journal of Mississippi History 72#2 (2011): 95–137onlineArchived December 21, 2018, at theWayback Machine.
Gandy, Thomas H. and Evelyn.The Mississippi Steamboat Era in Historic Photographs: Natchez to New Orleans, 1870–1920. New York: Dover Publications, 1987.
Gower, Herschel.Charles Dahlgren of Natchez: The Civil War and Dynastic Decline Brassey's, 2002. 293 pp.
Grant, Richard.The Deepest South of All: True Stories from Natchez, Mississippi. Simon & Schuster, 2020.
Inglis, G. Douglas. "Searching for Free People of Color in Colonial Natchez,"Southern Quarterly 2006 43(2): 97–112.
James, Dorris Clayton.Ante-Bellum Natchez (1968), the standard scholarly study.
Libby, David J.Slavery and Frontier Mississippi, 1720–1835, University Press of Mississippi, 2004. 163 pp. focus on Natchez.
Nguyen, Julia Huston. "Useful and Ornamental: Female Education in Antebellum Natchez,"Journal of Mississippi History 2005 67(4): 291–309.
Nolan, Charles E.St. Mary's of Natchez: The History of a Southern Catholic Congregation, 1716–1988 (2 vol 1992).
Umoja, Akinyele Omowale. "'We Will Shoot Back': The Natchez Model and Paramilitary Organization in the Mississippi Freedom Movement",Journal of Black Studies, Vol. 32, No. 3 (January 2002), pp. 271–294.In JSTOR.
Way, Frederick.Way's Packet Dictionary, 1848–1994: Passenger Steamboats of the Mississippi River System Since the Advent of Photography in Mid-Continent America. 2nd ed. Athens, Ohio: Ohio University Press, 1994.
Wayne, Michael.The Reshaping of Plantation Society: The Natchez District, 1860–1880 (1983).