Mystras Μυστράς | |
|---|---|
 Despot's Palace (2008) | |
 Location within the regional unit | |
  Mystras | |
| Coordinates:37°4′N22°23′E / 37.067°N 22.383°E /37.067; 22.383 | |
| Country | Greece |
| Administrative region | Peloponnese |
| Regional unit | Laconia |
| Municipality | Sparta |
| Area | |
| • Municipal unit | 131.9 km2 (50.9 sq mi) |
| Elevation | 310 m (1,020 ft) |
| Population (2021)[1] | |
| • Municipal unit | 4,238 |
| • Municipal unit density | 32.13/km2 (83.22/sq mi) |
| • Community | 724 |
| Time zone | UTC+2 (EET) |
| • Summer (DST) | UTC+3 (EEST) |
| Postal code | 231 00 |
| Area code | 27310 |
| Vehicle registration | ΑΚ |
| Official name | Archaeological Site of Mystras |
| Criteria | Cultural: ii, iii, iv |
| Reference | 511 |
| Inscription | 1989 (13thSession) |
| Area | 54.43 ha |
| Buffer zone | 1,202.52 ha |
Mystras orMistras (Greek:Μυστρᾶς/Μιστρᾶς),[2] also known in theChronicle of the Morea asMyzethras orMyzithras (Μυζηθρᾶς), is a fortified town and a formermunicipality inLaconia,Peloponnese, Greece. Situated in theTaygetus range, above ancientSparta, and below a "Frankish" castle,[3] it served as the capital of theByzantineDespotate of the Morea in the 14th and 15th centuries, experiencing a period of prosperity and cultural flowering during thePalaeologan Renaissance, including the teachings ofGemistos Plethon.[2] The city also attracted artists and architects of the highest quality.[2]
Mystras remained inhabited throughout theOttoman period, when foreign travellers mistook it for ancient Sparta. In the 1830s, it was abandoned and the new town ofSparta was built, approximately eight kilometres to the east. Since the 2011 local government reform it is part of the Sparta municipality.[4] As an exceptionally well-preserved example of a Byzantine city and because of its testimony to the development of Late Byzantine and Post-byzantine art, Mystras was inscribed on theUNESCOWorld Heritage List in 1989.[5]
Mystras is situated on a slope of theTaygetos mountains. The archaeological site stands above the modern village of Mystras and the city of Sparta. The greenery surrounding the area is composed mainly by pine trees and cypresses. Some small rivers and lakes are found in the region.[6] The city's architecture was influenced by the "Helladic" school of Byzantine architecture, and many structures were informed by the architecture of Constantinople.[5] Its overall urban planning though was shaped by the steeply sloping topography, with a distinct upper and lower city zone.[3] Because of the slope making wheeled vehicles impractical, many of the streets are best characterized as footpaths.[3] The main use of a terrace is for the Palace of the Despots (#8 on the plan below), and markets seem to have been located outside of the city walls.[3] The Palace of the Despots expanded over the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries and was constituted by several independent, adjoining units. The final main building follows the form of theTekfur saray in Constantinople/Istanbul: three stories with the topmost devoted to a large audience hall, and the lower levels used for apartments and storerooms.[3]
During thePalaeologan Renaissance, the churches of Mystras were covered in elaborate frescoes and were well known for their libraries.[5] Some of these decorations can still be seen in theHagia Sophia church in the archeological site.
In addition to the Palace of the Despots and its famed late Byzantine churches, Mystras also has remains of several houses set on its hillside, such as the Frangopoulos House and the Laskaris House, both of which are early fifteenth-century buildings that use vaulted substructures for cisterns and stables to create a platform for the main residence. That consisted of a large room fronted by a balcony and with a fireplace in the rear.[3]
In late 1248,William II of Villehardouin, ruler of theFrankishPrincipality of Achaea, capturedMonemvasia, the last remainingByzantine outpost on theMorea. This success was soon followed by the submission of the restiveTsakones onMount Parnon, theSlavicMelingoi tribe ofMount Taygetos, and the inhabitants of theMani peninsula, thereby extending his sway over all ofLaconia and completing the conquest of the peninsula, which had begun in 1205, in the aftermath of theFourth Crusade.[7] Laconia was incorporated into the princely domain, and the young prince passed the winter of 1248–49 there, touring the country and selecting sites for new fortifications such asGrand Magne andLeuktron; finally, near his residence of Lacedaemon (ancientSparta), on a spur of Mount Taygetos, he built the fortress that came to be known as Mystras.[2][8]
In September 1259, William of Villehardouin was defeated and captured, along with many of his nobles, at theBattle of Pelagonia, by the forces of theNicaean emperorMichael VIII Palaiologos. Two years later, the Nicaeans recapturedConstantinople, putting an end to theLatin Empire and restoring theByzantine Empire. At this point, the emperor concluded an agreement with the captive prince: William and his men would be set free in exchange for an oath of fealty, and for the cession of Monemvasia, Grand Magne, and Mystras.[9] The handover was effected in 1262, and henceforth Mystras was the seat of the governor of the Byzantine territories in the Morea. Initially this governor (kephale) was changed every year, but after 1308 they started being appointed for longer terms.[2] Almost immediately on his return to the Morea, William of Villehardouin renounced his oath to the emperor, and warfare broke out between Byzantines and Franks. The first Byzantine attempts to subdue the Principality of Achaea were beaten back in the battles ofPrinitsa andMakryplagi, but the Byzantines were firmly ensconced in Laconia. Warfare became endemic, and the Byzantines slowly pushed the Franks back.[10] The insecurity engendered by the raids and counter-raids caused the inhabitants of Lacedaemon to abandon their exposed city and settle at Mystras, in a new town built under the shadow of the fortress.
While Mystras served as the provincial capital from this time, it became a royal capital in 1349 CE, when the first despot was appointed to rule over the Morea. The Byzantine EmperorJohn VI Kantakouzenos, reorganized the territory in 1349 to establish it as anappanage for his son, theDespotManuel Kantakouzenos. From 1349 until its surrender to theOttoman Turks on 31 May 1460, Mystras was the residence of aDespot who ruled over the Byzantine Morea, known as the "Despotate of the Morea". For the larger portion of his reign, Manuel maintained peaceful relations with his Latin neighbors and secured a long period of prosperity for the area. Greco-Latin cooperation included an alliance to contain the raids of the Ottoman SultanMurad I into Morea in the 1360s. The rivalPalaiologos dynasty seized the Morea after Manuel's death in 1380, withTheodore I Palaiologos becoming despot in 1383. Theodore ruled until 1407, consolidating Byzantine rule and coming to terms with his more powerful neighbours—particularly the expansionistOttoman Empire, whosesuzerainty he recognised.[11]
This was the city's golden age; according to theOxford Dictionary of Byzantium, Mystras "witnessed a remarkable cultural renaissance, including the teaching ofPlethon, and attracted artists and architects of the highest quality"[2]
Mystras was the last centre of Byzantine learning and culture; the famousNeoplatonist philosopherGemistos Plethon lived there until he died in 1452. While there, Plethon served as a tutor and advisor to the youngdespot Theodore II until his death in 1452. He and other scholars based in Mystras influenced theItalian Renaissance, especially after he accompanied the emperorJohn VIII Palaiologos toFlorence in 1439.
The last Byzantine emperor,Constantine XI Palaiologos, was despot at Mystras before he came to the throne.Demetrios Palaiologos, the last despot of Morea, surrendered the city to SultanMehmed II in 30 May 1460.[12] Under Ottoman rule it became part of theSanjak of Mezistre. TheVenetiansoccupied it from 1687 to 1715, but otherwise the Ottomans held it until 1821. The city joined theOrlov revolt in 1770. It was looted byOttoman Albanians and the metropolitan bishop Ananias executed, despite having saved several Albanian lives in the uprising. A great number of local Greeks were also killed by the Albanian groups, while several children were sold into slavery.[13] Mystras was left in ruins and this event was a significant factor leading up to its abandonment.
The final straw to Mystras came in 1825 during theGreek war of Independence when Egyptians under the rule of Ibrahim massacred the local population and destroyed the local area.[14] The town was rebuilt 9 km away under the nameSparta in 1831. Most families moved to Sparta, but a few decided to move instead to New Mystras, a small village in the countryside. This process of relocation was completed in 1953 when the remaining properties were confiscated by the municipality.[6] In 1989 the ruins, including the fortress, palace, churches, and monasteries, were named aUNESCOWorld Heritage Site and features a museum and the partially restored ruins of the city. The only inhabitants today are a group of nuns who reside in the Pantanassa Monastery. The majority of the most important churches are still standing, including St. Demetrios, theHagia Sophia, St. George, and the Monastery of Peribleptos. The Palace of the Despots, the onlyByzantinepalace existing today, has undergone substantial restorations in the past decade and is expected to reopen by 2026, making it a significant attraction.[15] Visitors can reach the ruins via the modern city of Sparta, which is only a few miles from Mystras.
The municipal unit Mystras is subdivided into the following communities:
| Year | Municipal district | Municipal unit |
|---|---|---|
| 1981 | 920 | – |
| 1991 | 525 | 4,592 |
| 2001 | 807 | 4,608 |
| 2011 | 832 | 4,265 |
| 2021 | 724 | 4,238 |
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