Murshidabad silk (Bengali:মুর্শিদাবাদী রেশম) is produced inMurshidabad district ofWest Bengal. This silk is produced frommulberry silkworms (Bombyx mori) reared onmulberry trees. Murshidabad silk is known for its premium quality. This silk is very fine, light weight and easy to drape.[1] Two famous saris produced from Murshidabad silk areBaluchari andGorood.
Historically,Bengal was the main silk-weaving center of India. Production of Murshidabad silk began in the 13th century, and foreign traders were attracted to this silk as early as the 17th century.Silk was one of the most important products of the Bengal economy, which enriching the economy of the region.[2]
In May 2023,West Bengal National University of Juridical Sciences (WBNUJS) applied forGI tag on Murshidabad silk of West Bengal with 11 products.[3][4]
Silk production first started in China. The production of silk began in theBengal region during theMiddle Ages, which at that time came to be known as Bengal Silk.[5] Bengal silk production areas developed in present-day Murshidabad,Malda andRajshahi regions. In the 17th century, European merchants establishedkuthis (trading centers) in Murshidabad, Malda and Rajshahi, with the aim of exporting silk and silk products from Bengal to Europe.[6] Due to the difference in the place of production, Bengal silk gradually came to be known asMurshidabad silk,Rajshahi silk andMalda silk.[2][7]
Foreign traders (mainly European) were attracted to Murshidabadi silk as early as the 17th century.[1] They started referring to Murshidabad silk as Bengal silk. TheBritish East India Company established akuthi inKasimbazar in 1658 AD, with the main aim of exporting the silk produced in Murshidabad to Europe. Later, Dutch, Portuguese and French traders were attracted to Murshidabad silk and set upkuthi in Kasimbazar.[2][5][6][7][8]
FromMurshidabad, the method of silk production spread toSouth India.Tipu Sultan, the ruler of theMysore state, sent an expert (1780-1790) to Murshidabad (Bengal) to study silk cultivation and processing, after which the silk industry in Mysore first began to grow.[5]
TheNawab of Bengal was defeated in theBattle of Plassey, and later control of Bengal came under the East India Company. The company started exporting raw material from Murshidabad to Britain, as a result the silk industry of Bengal, including Murshidabad silk, began to decline. The factories were closed in 1883 due to losses.[6] During this time the Murshidabad silk industry was headed towards destruction.[5][2]
AfterIndia's independence, Murshidabad silk began to flourish with the help of theUnion andState Government. Currently,Murshidabad district is the second largest silk producing district inWest Bengal and third largest in India.
The Murshidabadi silk industry carries a rich historical legacy, however, it is currently going through a difficult phase. A large number ofsericulture growers as well as weavers are leaving the industry. The total number of sericulture farmers and weavers inMurshidabad district was 38,040 and 25,778 respectively in 2002, which declined to 14,593 and 15,160 in 2012.[6]
According to experts, degradation of silkworm species, various administrative and organizational problems are responsible for the decline of sericulture.Mulberry production has declined due to climate change, droughts and floods. Similarly, poor farmers who fail to get easy loans from banks are forced to produce less rawsilk. Attractive job opportunities in metropolitan cities, good and timely wages and other livelihood opportunities have diverted farmers and weavers from silk production.[6]
Murshidabad silk is mainly used to makesaris. Murshidabad silk saree features peacock blue background with its golden border, colorful jhumko or flowing goldenzari work on theanchal, decorative motifs of pure foliage, intricate weaving, and flower and bird motifs of zari. Murshidabad silk is known as 'Queen of Weaving' or 'Queen's Weaving', world famous.
Jamdani saris are also made by Murshidabad silk.[1] Apart from saris, the use of Murshidabadi silk is seen in the production of other textiles, such asSherwani.
Media related toMurshidabad silk at Wikimedia Commons%2527.jpg)