| Mount Huxley | |
|---|---|
 Aerial view looking south with Huxley centered in the distance | |
| Highest point | |
| Elevation | 12,216 ft (3,723 m)[1] |
| Prominence | 2,016 ft (614 m)[1] |
| Parent peak | Mount Saint Elias[2] |
| Isolation | 2.56 mi (4.12 km)[3] |
| Coordinates | 60°19′40″N141°09′19″W / 60.327909°N 141.155391°W /60.327909; -141.155391[1] |
| Geography | |
  Mount Huxley Location in Alaska | |
 | |
| Interactive map of Mount Huxley | |
| Location | Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Yakutat Borough Alaska,United States |
| Parent range | Saint Elias Mountains |
| Topo map | USGSBering Glacier B-1 |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | June 9, 1996 by Paul Claus[2] |
| Easiest route | Mountaineering expedition |
Mount Huxley is a 12,216-foot (3,723 meter) glaciated mountain summit located in theSaint Elias Mountains ofWrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, in theU.S. state ofAlaska. The remote peak is situated 75 mi (121 km) northwest ofYakutat, and 8.7 mi (14 km) west-northwest ofMount Saint Elias. The peak rises above the Columbus Glacier andBagley Icefield to its north, the Tyndall Glacier to the south, and theYahtse Glacier to the west. Precipitation runoff from the mountain drains into theGulf of Alaska. The mountain was named in 1886 by English mountaineer Harold Ward Topham forThomas Henry Huxley (1825-1895), an English biologist.[4] The mountain was officially named Huxley Peak in 1917, but the name was officially changed to Mount Huxley in 1968 by theU.S. Board on Geographic Names. Thefirst ascent of the peak was made June 9, 1996 by Paul Claus who landed his plane at 11,500 feet elevation on the western flank (700 vertical feet below the summit) and climbed the remaining distance to the summit.[5] The second ascent of Mt. Huxley, and first complete ascent from base to summit, was made in June 2018 by Scott Peters, Andrew Peter, and Ben Iwrey starting from the Columbus Glacier.[6]
Based on theKöppen climate classification, Mount Huxley is located in asubarctic climate zone with long, cold, snowy winters, and cool summers.[7] Weather systems coming off theGulf of Alaska are forced upwards by the Saint Elias Mountains (orographic lift), causing heavy precipitation in the form of rainfall and snowfall. Temperatures can drop below −20 °C with wind chill factors below −30 °C. The months May through June offer the most favorable weather for viewing and climbing this mountain.
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