Slovenian mountaineer and photographer (born 1965)
Marko Prezelj
Marko Prezelj (born 13 October 1965) is aSlovenian mountaineer and photographer.
Prezelj received fourPiolet d'Or awards. He won the inaugural "Oscar of mountaineering" in 1992 withAndrej Štremfelj for their new route on the south ridge ofKangchenjunga South (8476) inalpine style.[1] The second he received in 2007 with Boris Lorenčič, for the first ascent ofChomolhari's northwest pillar in October 2006. Prezelj rejected his second award[2] because of his concern about the dangers of a competition.[3]In 2014 he received his thirdPiolet d'Or together withAleš Česen andLuka Lindič for their first ascent of the north face of Hagshu in the Indian Himalaya.[4][5][6] In 2016 he won his fourth Piolet d'Or (withManu Pellissier,Urban Novak andHayden Kennedy, forLight Before Wisdom, in the East face ofCerro Kishtwar.[7]
Prezelj has a degree inChemical Engineering and is an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and climbing instructor. He is married and has two sons.[8]
1998 New route on Porong Ri East Summit (7284 m) and Yebokangal Ri (7332 m)
1999 First ascent of the north wall of theGyachung Kang (7952 m)
2000 Second ascent of the "Golden Pillar" ofSpantik
2001Begguya andDenali (6193 m) in Alaska - "Light Traveller" on the south face, new route, free climbed in a single push style, andNilkanth west ridge (6596 m)
2006 "The Long Run" onCerro Torre and "Extreme Emotions" on Cerro Standhardt, free on sight ascent of "Cobra Oillar" onMount Barille (Alaska) and Chomolhari (7326 m) northwest pillar
2007 First ascent of K7 West in Karakoram
2008 New route on W face of Kangchungtse (7678 m)
2009 Baghirathi IV, III and II new routes
2010 Bisotun Wall, Iran, new route
2011 Makalu W face attempt (reached 7000 m) and integral ridge traverse of Chago peaks
