Marcel Rüedi (1 November 1938 inWinterthur – 25 September 1986 inMakalu)[1] was a Swissclimber who reached the summit of ten of theeight-thousanders.
In 1980, Rüedi ascendedDhaulagiri. In 1981 he forged a new route along the North Face of theEiger in the Bernese Alps. In 1983, together withErhard Loretan and Jean-Claude Sonnenwyl, Rüedi climbed the three main summits of theGasherbrum Group within 15 days, reachingGasherbrum I via a standard route variation. In 1984, he reached the peaks ofManaslu andNanga Parbat, officially climbing five eight-thousanders in only twelve months.
In 1986, Rüedi was the first Swiss, along withPeter Habeler, to summitCho Oyu. That same year, he andKrzysztof Wielicki attempted to climbMakalu via a standard route variation.Krzysztof Wielicki reached the summit a few hours before Rüedi and was able to descend to the nearestbivouac shelter. Rüedi did not succeed.Reinhold Messner, who was also at Makalu at the time, claims to have seen Rüedi descending from the summit, and watched as he disappeared behind a snowdrift. Messner later found Rüedi sitting dead in the snow just below his camp.[2]
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