Mall goths (also known asspooky kids)[1] are asubculture that began in the late-1990s in the United States. Originating as apejorative to describe people who dressed goth for the fashion rather than culture, it eventually developed its own culture centred aroundnu metal,industrial metal,emo and theHot Topic store chain. It has variously been described as a part of thegoth subculture,[2][3] as well as a separate subculture simply influenced by goth.[4][5]
"Mall goth" is derived from the words "mall" and "goth", referencing how many participants of the subculture would often spend time at shopping malls. In particular, it often references their buying of items fromHot Topic. The term began aspejorative, connoting solely being interested in goth for its fashion, rather than the subculture itself, similar to the use ofposeur.[7][8]Marilyn Manson andAmy Lee were influential upon the culture's development.[5][9][10] According toAdolescent writer Angelina Zaphyria, it began as a fusion of the cultures of the existing goth,third wave emo andnu metal movements,[4] however according toFashion writer Isabel Slone, it "combined the hallmarks ofpunk, goth andmetal subcultures".[11]
In an article forThe A.V. Club, writer Sean O'Neal creditedThe Crow as one of the main reasons for the subculture's popularity.[12] At this time, mall goths often listened to nu metal bands likeKorn,Slipknot,Kittie, andMudvayne,[13][14] andindustrial metal bands likeRammstein,White Zombie andMarilyn Manson.[15] During this period, animosity between mall goths andtraditional goths was common. The conflict between the two cultures arose through many traditional goths perceiving mall goths to be simply interested in the fashion, and having little interest ingothic rock and the bands that spawned the subculture.[16] Additionally, some goths considered mall goth to be a commercialisation of goth.[15] In the early 2000s, mall goth gained further notoriety in the mainstream, and became increasingly associated with theemo subculture,emo pop music and groups such asMy Chemical Romance.[17][18][19] With the increased usage of the internet and social media, mall goths became frequent users of sites such asMySpace[20] andPure Volume.[21]
Although, during its original popularity the subculture was mostly dominated bywhite people, the revival brought about an increased ethnic diversity, with people likeLil Uzi Vert andAaron Philip becoming notable participants. To the extent that, in an article published on 22 May 2018 byFashion, writer Isabel Slone cited Lil Uzi Vert's appearance at the2018 Grammy Awards as "perhaps the most visible moment of the mall goth revival", through their wearing ofbondage trousers and multiple wallet chains.[11]MetalHammer writer Alice Pattillo creditedInstagram accounts such as @1990smallgoth as a key part of the continued popularity of the subculture.[22] During 2020, the subculture's popularity increased through trending videos onTikTok.[23]
.jpg)
Fashion items such as platform boots and oversized sweatshirts and trousers are common amongst mall goths, as well as striped and checkered prints.[24] They are often associated with wearing brands such asLip Service, Tripp,[7]JNCO[25] and Demonia.[4] Chunky and platformsneakers were common, especiallyBuffalo.[26] In an article forElle, one former mall goth described that they wore "ankh necklace, combat boots over striped tights and did my eyeliner in a style that could only be described as raccoon-esque".[27] Items such aspleather, chokers, creeper shoes and lip rings are all common.[28]W writer Katherine Cusumano describedKristen Stewart's outfit on September 22 2016, of "bold swipe of black liquid liner, the deep reddish magenta under-eye liner, the slightly yellowed bleach job, and the padlocked necklace" as notably mall goth.[29] In an article forRefinery29, Goth DJ and scholar Andi Harriman stated "Most Goths don't wear a lot of neon, face masks, or those over-the-knee stripy socks, basically anything Mall Goths wear".[30]
Mall goths' hair is often dyed, particularly usingManic Panic dye.[31] Sometimes hair is dyed two different colours. Some mall goths wearmullets.[32]
During the subculture's revival, it became common for mall goths to wear baggy trousers contrasted with small tops. This look capitalised upon the "big pants, little shirt" fashion trend that was popular in the late 2010s and early 2020s.[33]
According to an article byWM Magazine, mall goth fashion was an influence upon the popularity of thenormcore andscumbro fashion styles that became popular in the 2010s.[31]Indie rock bandPale Waves' aesthetic is also influenced by mall goth.[34][35]
In the mid-to-late 2010s, rappers such asLil Peep[36] andLil Uzi Vert[11] and singersKim Petras[37] andBenee[38] began dressing in ways influenced by the fashion of mall goth. Additionally, a number of brands began creating fashion lines influenced by the subculture's fashion. In particular,Marc Jacobs' andLouis Vuitton's autumn 2016 collections,Dilara Findikoglu's collection from Spring 2018,Coach New York's pre-Autumn 2018 collection andGypsy Sport's collection from autumn 2018, as well as a number of items fromOpen Ceremony from early 2018, all referenced the subculture.[11] Additionally, mainstream celebrities such asKanye West,Lorde,Kylie Jenner andBella Hadid were photographed in mall goth outfits.[39][25]
Mall goth influenced the fashion of thee-girls and e-boys subculture in the late 2010s and early 2020s.[40][41]
