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Maki Yūkō

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Japanese mountain climber
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Maki Yūkō
Born
Maki Aritsune

(1894-02-05)5 February 1894
Died2 May 1989(1989-05-02) (aged 95)
Tokyo, Japan
Alma materKeio UniversityFaculty of Law
OccupationMountaineer
In thisJapanese name, thesurname is Maki.

Maki Yūkō (槇 有恒,Maki Yūkō; 5 February 1894 – 2 May 1989), also known asMaki Aritsune (using thenative Japanese reading of the characters of his given name;Yūkō is theSino-Japanese reading), was aJapanesemountain climber. He was born inSendai and died inTokyo.

Early life and education

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Maki climbedMount Fuji at the age of ten and made many climbs in his teens, includingMount Aso. He established a climbing club while studying law atKeio University in Tokyo, from which he graduated in 1919. He continued his studies in theUnited States andGreat Britain.[1]

Climbing career

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During the period 1919 to 1921, he made numerous climbs inSwitzerland, and on 10 September 1921, he made thefirst ascent of theEiger by the Mittellegigrat (northeast ridge) with mountain guidesFritz Amatter,Samuel Brawand andFritz Steuri.[1][2][3]

He made a donation of 10,000Swiss francs toward the construction of theMittellegi Hut.[1][3][4]

In 1922, he made the first winter ascent ofMount Yari (3,180 metres (10,430 ft)) in Japan. In 1925, with five other Japanese mountaineers and three Swiss mountain guides, he made the first ascent ofMount Alberta (3,619 metres (11,873 ft)) in theCanadian Rockies.[5] The expedition was sponsored byPrince Chichibu.[1]

In 1926, he was again in the Alps, making the ascent of theMatterhorn via the Zmuttgrat, and climbing with Prince Chichibu.[1][6]

Maki's climbing career was interrupted byWorld War II, preventing him from leading a Japanese expedition to theHimalayas.[1] In 1956, Maki led the third Japanese expedition to the Nepalese mountainManaslu, where expedition membersToshio Imanishi [ja] and SherpaGyalzen Norbu made the first ascent of Manaslu on 9 May 1956.[7][1][8]

References

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  1. ^abcdefgDouglas, Ed (2011).Mountaineers: Great Tales of Bravery and Conquest.Smithsonian Institution.New York, New York:DK Publishing. pp. 212–213.ISBN 978-0-7566-8682-6.
  2. ^Harrer, Heinrich; Maix, Kurt (1959).The White Spider: The Story of the North Face of the Eiger. Translated by Hugh Merrick.Rupert Hart-Davis. p. 27.ISBN 0-586-08874-1.{{cite book}}:ISBN / Date incompatibility (help)
  3. ^abBrawand, Samuel (July 1989)."Erinnerungen an Yuko Maki" [Memories of Yuko Maki](PDF) (in German).Grindelwald. pp. 5–6. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 22 February 2005. Retrieved2 August 2013.
  4. ^Reynolds, Kev (2012).The Swiss Alps. Cicerone World Mountain Ranges.Milnthorpe:Cicerone Press. p. 331.ISBN 978-1-85284-465-3. Retrieved2016-11-11.
  5. ^Yoshizawa, Ichiro (1990)."Yuko Maki, 1894-1989".American Alpine Journal.32 (64). American Alpine Club: 338. Retrieved2016-11-11.
  6. ^Brawand, pp. 7-8.
  7. ^"The Ascent of Manaslu".Himalayan Journal.20. Himalayan Club. 1957. Retrieved2016-11-11.
  8. ^Reynolds, Kev (2000). "Introduction".Manaslu: A Trekker's Guide.Milnthorpe:Cicerone Press. p. 14.ISBN 1-85284-302-0. Retrieved23 January 2013.

Publications

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