Macramé is a form of textile produced usingknotting (rather thanweaving orknitting) techniques.
The primary knots of macramé are the square (orreef knot) and forms of "hitching": various combinations ofhalf hitches. It was long crafted by sailors, especially in elaborate or ornamental knotting forms, to cover anything from knife handles to bottles to parts of ships.
Cavandoli macramé is one variety that is used to form geometric and free-form patterns likeweaving. The Cavandoli style is done mainly in a single knot, the double half-hitch knot. Reverse half hitches are sometimes used to maintain balance when working the left and right halves of a balanced piece.
Leather or fabric belts are another accessory often created via macramé techniques. Mostfriendship bracelets exchanged among schoolchildren and teens are created using this method. Vendors at theme parks, malls, seasonal fairs, and other public places may sell macraméjewelry or decoration as well.
One of the earliest recorded uses of macramé-style knots as decoration appeared in the carvings of theBabylonians andAssyrians. Fringe-like plaiting and braiding adorned thecostumes of the time and were captured in their stone statuary.[1]
Arab weavers[when?] called this kind of decorated cloth embroiderymiqrama (مِقْرَمة). It involved knotting excess thread along the edges of hand-loomed fabrics such astowels,shawls, andveils into decorativefringes. The wordmacramé could be derived from the Andalusian-Arabic versionmakramiyya (مكرمية), believed to mean "striped towel", "ornamental fringe" or "embroidered veil".[1] Another school of thought indicates that it came to Europe from Arabic but via the Turkish versionmakrama, "napkin" or "towel".[2] The decorative fringes also helped to keepflies off camels and horses innorthern Africa.
TheMuslim conquest of the Iberian Peninsula took the craft to Spain, then Italy, especially in the region ofLiguria, then it spread through Europe. In England, it was introduced at the court ofMary II in the late 17th century. Queen Mary taught it to herladies-in-waiting.[3]
Macramé was most popular in theVictorian era. It adorned most homes in items such astablecloths,bedspreads andcurtains. The popularSylvia's Book of Macramé Lace (1882) showed how "to work rich trimmings for black and coloured costumes, both for home wear, garden parties, seaside ramblings, and balls—fairylike adornments for household and underlinens ...".[4]
It was a specialty in Genoa, and was popular in the 19th century. There, "Its roots were in a 16th-century technique of knotting lace known aspunto a groppo".[5]
Sailors made macramé objects while not busy at sea, and sold or bartered them when they landed. Nineteenth-century British and American sailors madehammocks,bell fringes, andbelts from macramé. They called the process "square knotting" after the knot they used most often. Sailors also called macramé "McNamara's lace".[4]
Macramé's popularity faded, but resurged in the 1970s for making wall hangings, clothing accessories, small jean shorts, bedspreads,tablecloths,draperies, plant hangers and other furnishings. Macramé jewelry became popular in America. Using mainly square knots andgranny knots, this jewelry often features handmade glass beads and natural elements such as bone and shell. Necklaces, anklets and bracelets have become popular forms of macramé jewelry. By the early 1980s, macramé had again fallen out of fashion,[6] with the exception of a brief revival bymillennials in the late2010s.[7][8]
Materials used in macramé include cords made of cotton twine,linen,hemp,jute, leather oryarn. Cords are identified by construction, such as a 3-ply cord, made of three lengths of fibre twisted together.[4] Jewelry is often made in combination of both the knots and variousbeads (of glass, wood, and so on), pendants or shells. Sometimes 'found' focal points are used for necklaces, such as rings orgemstones, either wire-wrapped to allow for securing or captured in a net-like array of intertwiningoverhand knots. A knotting board is often used to mount the cords for macramé work. Cords may be held in place using aC-clamp, straight pins, T-pins, U-pins, or upholstery pins.[4]
For larger decorative pieces, such as wall hangings orwindow coverings, a work of macramé might be started out on a wooden or metal dowel, allowing for a spread of dozens of cords that are easy to manipulate. For smaller projects, push-pin boards are available specifically for macramé, although a simple corkboard works adequately. Many craft stores offer beginners' kits, work boards, beads and materials ranging in price for the casual hobbyist or ambitious crafter.[1]
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