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Lutèce (restaurant)

Coordinates:40°45′18.7″N73°58′8.2″W / 40.755194°N 73.968944°W /40.755194; -73.968944
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Defunct French restaurant in New York City

Lutèce
Map
Interactive map of Lutèce
Restaurant information
EstablishedFebruary 1961; 64 years ago (1961-02)
ClosedFebruary 14, 2004; 21 years ago (2004-02-14)
Location249 East 50th Street,New York City, New York, United States
Coordinates40°45′18.7″N73°58′8.2″W / 40.755194°N 73.968944°W /40.755194; -73.968944
Seating capacity60 (1961)[1]
Other locationsVenetian Hotel,Las Vegas Valley

Lutèce was aFrenchrestaurant inManhattan that operated for more than 40 years before closing in early 2004. It once had a satellite restaurant on theLas Vegas Strip.[2]

It was famous for its Alsatian oniontart and a sauteedfoie gras with dark chocolate sauce and bitter orange marmalade.[3] In 1972,W magazine referred to it as one of "Les Six, the last bastions of grand luxe dining in New York." The other five wereLa Grenouille,La Caravelle,La Côte Basque,Lafayette, andQuo Vadis, all of which are now closed.[4]

History

[edit]

Lutèce was opened in 1961 by founderAndre Surmain, who brought young chefAndré Soltner to run the kitchen. The name (pronounced[ly.tɛs]) is the French version of "Lutetia," the ancient name ofParis. Shortly thereafter, Surmain and Soltner became partners, and they ran the restaurant together until Surmain returned to Europe. He first retired toMajorca, then later ranLe Relais à Mougins inMougins, southern France.[5] In 1986, he returned to the US to open a branch of the same restaurant at the Palm Court Hotel inPalm Beach, Florida.[6]

Soltner became chef-owner of Lutèce until he sold it to Ark Restaurants in the 1990s. A second branch, located in theGrand Canal Shoppes atThe Venetian Las Vegas on theLas Vegas Strip, opened in 1999 with David Feau asexecutive chef.[7][8] Both locations earned theMobil Travel Guide four star rating for the year 2002.[9]

Lutèce closed on February 14, 2004, after a period of declining revenues attributed to having alienated its longtime customers with a change in menu following the restaurant's sale, and more general industry changes such as a decrease in lunchtimeexpense account diners and the effects on New York City's tourism industry following theSeptember 11, 2001, attacks.[10]

Julia Child[11] and a 1987 panel of food critics forPlayboy magazine[12] each proclaimed Lutèce the best restaurant in the United States, a rank it held in theZagat's survey for six consecutive years in the 1980s.[10]

In popular culture

[edit]

The restaurant's reputation has led to it being used as a touchstone in film and television work made or set during the period when it was open.

  • In the 1963Ian Fleming short storyAgent 007 in New York,James Bond refers to Lutèce as "one of the great restaurants of the world".
  • The 1971 filmA New Leaf showsWalter Matthau's character, once wealthy but now broke, visiting his favorite restaurant for the last time.
  • In the 1974 novelMarathon Man, "Doc" takes "Babe" and his girlfriend "Elsa" there for a meal.
  • Referenced inJane Chambers’s 1980 playLastSummer at Bluefish Cove where the character Donna mentions Lutèce mâitre ‘d who made a assumptive remark to character Sue, a wealthy Blueblood whom Donna is in a romantic relationship with.
  • Mentioned in the movieArthur, where the wealthy title character visits his dying butler, Hobson, in the hospital, and places a lunch order for Hobson, saying "l want the troutalmondine from Lutèce. Tell Henri it's for me."
  • InWalter Tevis's sci-fi novelThe Steps of the Sun (1983), protagonist Belson laments the demise of the restaurant.
  • During the restaurant's 1980s heyday at the top of the Zagat's survey, it was mentioned in the filmWall Street (1987) by Gordon's call girl when talking to Bud Fox (Charlie Sheen).
  • Mentioned in the filmCrossing Delancey by Isabelle Grossman (Amy Irving) as the place of her intended birthday dinner.
  • Referenced inWendy Wasserstein's 1988 playThe Heidi Chronicles where character Scoop Rosenbaum praises the souffle to Heidi.
  • Mentioned in the filmThe Prince of Tides byPat Conroy, in a scene where Dr. Susan Lowenstein and Tom Wingo dine together.
  • Mentioned in the filmOther People's Money, when Kate Sullivan (Penelope Ann Miller) invites Lawrence Garfield (Danny DeVito) to discuss a proposition about New England Wire and Cable Company.
  • Mentioned inTerrence McNally's 1995Tony Award-winning play "Love! Valour! Compassion!" in Act I by Perry Sellars (Stephen Spinella(OOBC)/Anthony Heald (OBC))[13]
  • In the 1998 filmThe Last Days of Disco at the end of the film Josh mentions Alice invited him to go uptown to have lunch at Lutèce to celebrate her promotion.
  • In season two ofMad Men, set in the 1960s, there are several scenes that are set at Lutèce and the restaurant is mentioned several times in other episodes.
  • Referenced inLinda Fairstein's NY-based mystery series, especiallyNight Watch (2012). In it a renowned French restaurateur, son of the owner of a fictitious Lutèce, sets out to reopen the restaurant.
  • In theHBO Max seriesJulia, episode “Foie Gras,” set in the mid 1960s, Julia Child's book editors have lunch at Lutèce and Julia has the signature foie gras.
  • In the video gameGenshin Impact, Café Lutėce is located in the Court of Fontaine. The food and recipes available for purchase refer to the signature dishes once served in the real-world Lutėce.

References

[edit]
  1. ^Clairborne, Craig (March 28, 1961)."Lutece Both Elegant and Expensive".The New York Times. RetrievedFebruary 4, 2022.
  2. ^Collins, Glenn; Yardley, William (February 13, 2004)."Eat and Be Merry; On Saturday 2 Classics Die".The New York Times. RetrievedFebruary 4, 2022.
  3. ^Chung, Jen (February 11, 2004)."Au Revoir, Lutece".Gothamist.Archived from the original on December 10, 2006. RetrievedFebruary 4, 2022.
  4. ^Mariani, John."After A Long Closure, La Grenouille Is Due To Reopen—But Its Building Is Up For Sale".Forbes. RetrievedApril 9, 2024.
  5. ^"La Creme de la Creme – Lutece".New York Magazine. February 7, 1983. p. 30.
  6. ^Alva, Marilyn (January 13, 1986) "Lutèce creator back in the United States; Andre Surmain 'starts over again' at Le Relais a Mougins in Florida",Nation's Restaurant News, Gale
  7. ^Asimov, Eric (February 11, 2004)."C'est la Fin! Lutèce Closing After 43 Years".The New York Times.
  8. ^"Lutèce".Ark Restaurants.Archived from the original on December 10, 2006. RetrievedFebruary 4, 2022.
  9. ^"Mobil Five-Stars Awarded to 25 Lodgings and 14 Restaurants".Hotel Online. January 8, 2002.
  10. ^abGoldman, John J. (February 16, 2004)."Ah, creme de la creme Lutece dies a la mode".Chicago Tribune. p. 11. RetrievedFebruary 4, 2022.
  11. ^Hoge, Sharon King (April 9, 2013)."Singular Meal".Cottages & Gardens.
  12. ^"If Lutece is open, Soltner is at the stove".USA Today. September 10, 1987. p. 4D.ProQuest 305916187.
  13. ^McNally, Terrence. Love! Valour! Compassion!. New York: Dramatists Play Service, 1995

Further reading

[edit]
  • Mimi Sheraton (March 10, 1986). "America's Best French Restaurant".The New York Times.
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