Lismore

Scottish Gaelic name	Lios Mòrⓘ
Meaning of name	great garden or great enclosure
Location
Lismore Lismore shown within Argyll and Bute
OS grid reference	NM840408
Coordinates	56°31′N5°30′W / 56.52°N 5.5°W /56.52; -5.5
Physical geography
Island group	Inner Hebridies
Area	2,351 ha (5,810 acres)
Area rank	33 [1]
Highest elevation	Barr Mòr, 127 m (417 ft)
Administration
Council area	Argyll and Bute
Country	Scotland
Sovereign state	United Kingdom
Demographics
Population	190[2]
Population rank	32 [1]
Population density	8.1/km2 (21/sq mi)[2][3]
Largest settlement	Achnacroish
References	[3][4]

Lismore (Scottish Gaelic:Lios Mòr,pronounced[ʎis̪ˈmoːɾ] possibly meaning "great enclosure" or "garden") is an island of around 2,351 hectares (9.1 square miles) in theInner Hebrides of Scotland. The climate is damp and mild, with over 166 centimetres (65 in) of rain recorded annually. This fertile, low-lying island was once a major centre ofCeltic Christianity, with a 6th-centurymonastery associated withSaint Moluag, and later became the seat of the medievalBishop of Argyll. There are numerous ruined structures, including abroch and two 13th-century castles.

During the 19th century, various new industries were introduced, includinglime quarrying. During the early decades of the 20th century, the population exceeded 1,000, but this was followed by a lengthy decline. Although resident numbers are now less than 200, there was a small increase from 2001 to 2011. About a third of the population were recorded asGaelic-speaking at the former date. The modern economy is largely based on farming, fishing and tourism, and the largest settlement isAchnacroish. Various shipwrecks have been recorded in the vicinity.

In the Gaelic name,lios means "garden"^[5] or "enclosure",^[3] andmòr is simply "big" or "great",^[5] reflecting either the fertility of the island amidst mountainous surroundings, or the presence of a defined area surrounding the early monastery.^[6] One of the earliest English language references is to "Lismoir", recorded in the 16th century.^[7]

Achnacroish is fromAchadh na Croise and means "the field of the cross".^[8] The other small settlements are Clachan (village with a church)^[9] and Port Ramsay, opposite Eilean Ramsay (Ramsay's isle). Most of the surrounding islets have descriptive names, such as Eilean Dubh (black island), Eilean nan Gamhna (isle of thestirks) and Pladda (flat island, fromOld Norse).^[10][11]

Lismore is formed almost wholly from rocks of theNeoproterozoic age Lismore Limestone Formation, which is ascribed to the Blair Atholl Subgroup of theAppin Group within theDalradian sequence. There are also some minor graphiticpelites (sometimes described as 'interbedded blackslate',^[12][13] within the formation. Thelimestonecountry rock is intruded by a handful of NE-SW alignedlamprophyredykes ofSilurian to earlyDevonian age associated with the Strontian Granite Complex and by large numbers of NW-SE aligned dykes ofdolerite andbasalt ofPalaeogene age along with a rather fewer number assigned to the ‘Loch Scridain Suite.

Quaternary deposits include glacialtill andpeat alongside some small patches ofalluvium (clay,silt,sand andgravel) which occupy lower ground. Around the margins of Lismore are modern beach deposits andraised marine deposits of clay, silt and sand, the latter being a product of varying relative sea-levels during theHolocene epoch. The whole of Scotland was subjected toglaciation during the Pleistoceneepoch. A sign of this on Lismore is the presence of rock-cut platforms close to the seashore that indicate the changing sea-levels; in some areas of the northern coast, they also betray the presence of ice by the striation marks on the rocks.^[14][15][16]

The island of Lismore lies inLoch Linnhe, north east ofMull, in theArgyll and Bute council area. It is 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) long and about 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) wide and oriented from SW to NE, roughly parallel to theGreat Glen Fault. To the east is an arm of Loch Linnhe known as the Lynn of Lorn.^[4] Composed almost entirely of limestone, Lismore has fertile soil and an abundance of trees and shrubs, includingash andsycamore. The topography consists of sheltered furrows of land between raised areas that run longitudinally up the island's spine.^[6][17][18]

The area of the island is 2,351 hectares (9.1 square miles)^[3] and the highest elevation is Barr Mòr in the south above Kilcheran, which reaches only 127 metres (417 feet).^[4] (Haswell-Smith ranks Lismore as the 50th offshore Scottish island by height).^[19]

There are several smalllochs on the island, the largest of which are Loch Fiart in the southwest, Kilcheran Loch 3 kilometres (1.9 mi) further northeast, and Loch Baile a' Ghobhainn another 4 km (2.5 mi) northeast, north of Achnacroish.^[4] These three water bodies form the Lismore LochsSpecial Area of Conservation, a status which is accorded as they are amongst the best examples in Scotland of lochs on a limestonesubstrate. Thealkaline waters are very clear and low in nutrients and support the rareChara stonewortsC. rudis andC. curtis.C. pedunculata has also been recorded.^[20] The lochs lie longitudinally down the island and are of roughly similar size. The total surface area of all three combined is about 32 hectares (79 acres), and they are inhabited bytrout.^{[21][Note 1]}

Lismore is part of the ancient district ofLorne and is said to lie "in the cockpit" of this territory.^[23] In the modern day, it is at the heart of theLynn of LornNational Scenic Area, one of forty such areas in Scotland, which have been defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development.^[24] The national scenic areas cover 15,726 ha, of which 10,088 ha are marine seascape,^[25] and includes the whole of Lismore, along with neighbouring areas on the mainland such asBenderloch andPort Appin, and theShuna Island.^[26]

The views from Barr Mòr, the island's highest point, are superlative. Although Barr Mòr is only of modest height, from there "the skyscape is vast and made so not by its emptiness, but by the throng of high and pointed hills lifting out of the glittering seas and islands. Nowhere else on the Highland coast can you enjoy a view of the mountainous mainland to equal this one."^[27]

The offshore islets of Eilean na Cloich and Eilean Dubh in the Lynn of Lorn andBernera and Dubh Sgeir in the Lynn of Morvern to the west and Eilean Gainimh to the NE are extensively used bycommon seals and form theEileanan agus Sgeirean Lios mòr Special Area of Conservation.^[28] The whole island of Bernera is also anSSSI, its limestone maritime cliffs being a key feature along with the presence of the nationally scarcerock whitebeam.^[29] Creag Island and Pladda are other islets in the Lynn of Lorn. Eilean nan Caorach, Inn Island, Eilean Droineach and Eilean Ramsay are amongst another cluster of small islands off the north coast, and Eilean Loch Oscair is to the NW.^[4] Lismore Lighthouse, built byRobert Stevenson, lies on the small island ofEilean Musdile to the south west, withLady's Rock a kilometre further away in the same direction.

Lismore has amaritime climate with cool summers and mild winters. The nearest officialMet Office weather station for which online records are available isDunstaffnage on the mainland north of Oban.

There are variousBronze Agecairns on the island.^[32]Tirefour Castle is anIron Agebroch of an uncertain date that is a prominent landmark on Lismore's east coast. The walls have an average thickness of 4.5 metres (15 ft), enclosing a circular court about 12.2 metres (40 ft) in diameter. The wall still stands 3 metres (9.8 ft) high and reaches 4.9 metres (16 ft) in the south east.^[33] There is a second possible broch site at An Dùn, SW of Loch Fiart,^[4] and these are amongst the most southerly examples of these enigmatic fortifications.^[34] There are also variousduns on the island that may date to the 1st or 2nd centuries AD.^[34]

Lismore was an important centre ofCeltic Christianity from an early date. TheIona Chronicle records the death ofMo-Luóc (also known as Moluag), who was probably abbot of the Lismore monastery in 594, and of his successors Neman in 613 and Eochaid in 637. There is, however, no reason to suppose that this was a daughter house ofColumba'sabbey onIona itself.^[35] Lismore probably maintained its status as the principal religious house of theCenél Loairn during the remainder of the 7th century^[36] and the deaths of abbots Iarnlaigh c. 700, Colmán in 704 and Crónán ua Eoain in 718 are recorded in theAnnals of Ulster. Five further such obituaries are recorded in the latter half of the 8th century.^[37]

Lismore was part of the kingdom ofDalriada in the 6th century and probably thereafter until the arrival of theVikings in the late 8th century, after which it is likely the island was absorbed into the Norse-GaelKingdom of the Isles.Magnus Barelegs had established direct Norwegian overlordship over this sprawlingsea kingdom by 1098.^[38] In that year,Edgar of Scotland signed a treaty with Magnus which settled much of the boundary between the Scots and Norwegian claims in these islands. Edgar formally acknowledged the existing situation by giving up his claims to the Hebrides but there were a few exceptions includingLuing and Lismore, which were retained by the Scots.^[39]

Lismore later became the seat of the medievalBishopric of Argyll. Before the late 12th century theBishopric of Dunkeld included all ofArgyll, but sometime between 1183 and 1193 they were separated, as apparently the then BishopJohn Scotus was unable to speak Gaelic.^[40][41] Lismore became the seat of the new bishop, and he and his successors were known asEpiscopi Lismorenses^[3] but a papal mandate in 1249 proposed that the seat be transferred to "some more secure and accessible place".^[42] At least by 1268, Laurence de Ergadia became Bishop of Argyll and served in that position until his death in 1299.^[43]

In the eventSt Moluag's cathedral at Clachan maintained its position until 1507, when the diocese's centre was moved toSaddell inKintyre.^[3] It was burned down during theReformation^[41] and only the choir survives in greatly altered form, the nave and western tower having been reduced to their foundations. There is also evidence of an enclosure, probably medieval.^[44]

The ruins ofCoeffin Castle stand on the summit of a rocky promontory on the coast west of Clachan. There is the outline of an oblong hall-house, which may be 13th century, and an irregularly shapedbailey, likely of a later date.^[45] A tidalfish trap, of unknown age, is located in the small bay to the south-east of the castle.^[46] To the north-east of the castle are the remains of a stone-walled fort.^[47]

The remains ofAchanduin Castle west of Achnacroish is also thought to date back to the 13th century.^[48] Built by theMacDougalls around 1290, who held it throughout the 14th century,^[49] the castle is then thought to have been held by the Bishops of Argyll until the mid 16th century.^[48][50] The castle overlooks the island ofBernera.^[4]

In the 16th centuryDonald Monro provided a short description of the island inScots:Lismoir, ane iyle quher leid ure is, fornent Douard. This iyle is four myle lang, with ane paroche kirke in it.^[7] ("Lismore, an isle where lead ore is, oppositeDuart. This isle is four miles long, with a parish church on it".)^{[Note 2]} Monro'sDescription of the Western Isles of Scotland also mentions Eilean Droineach and Eilean Ramsay. He stated that both were "good for corn and store" and had many "Elders and thorns" and that Eilean Droineach was the "habitation of Bishops and Nobles in auld times".^[54] However, the view of Munro (1961) is that this last comment more properly applies to the larger "Ramsay Isle".^[55]

Lismore is the home of theClan MacLea, who claim kinship with theLivingstone family, and who were recognised by theLord Lyon in 2002.^[56] ThePlod nam Baran, which is adjacent to the site of Saint Moluag's church, may be the burial ground of its clan chiefs, or "barons".^[57] The current chief, Niall Livingstone of Bachuil, is the "Coarb of Saint Moluag" and since the 16th century or earlier, the chiefs have been hereditary keepers of the saint'scrozier or pastoral staff known as theBachuil Mòr.^[58][59]

In 1707, theActs of Union merged England and Scotland, and Lismore became part of theKingdom of Great Britain. Thereafter taxes onwhisky distillation rose dramatically, and much of Scotland's distillation was either shut down or forced underground until the 1823 Excise Act provided a legal framework for the industry.^[60] The remains of at least two illicit stills from this period have been found on Lismore.^[61]

In 1749 the ruins of the old cathedral were trimmed down from their remaining height, given a roof and turned into a parish church with a bell tower.^[41]

In the 19th centurylime was quarried, particularly on the west coast.^[17] The ruined remains of the quarriers' cottages can still be seen on Eilean nan Caorach and Inn Island,^[17] and oldlime kilns can be seen at Sailean, Port na Moralachd and Port Ramsay; the last lime was produced in 1934.^[62] The remains of another two kilns can be seen at Kilcheran nearLismore Seminary, aRoman Catholicdivinity school that was in operation from 1803 to 1828 at a time when the other inhabitants of the island were staunchlyPresbyterian.^[63][64]

John Stuart McCaig, the architect ofMcCaig's Tower inOban, was born on Lismore in the 19th century^[65] as was the folkloristAlexander Carmichael.^[66] Overlooking Lismore Bay is aCeltic Cross, a memorial to Waverley Arthur Cameron, the son ofDuncan Cameron, inventor of the "Waverley"nibpen and the owner ofThe Oban Times newspaper.^[67] Waverley was drowned in 1891 when hisyacht foundered off the coast nearby.^[67]

There have been various other shipwrecks in the vicinity. In 1889 thepaddle steamerMountaineer lived up to its name by clambering onto Lady's Rock, the damage to which was still visible in 1995. In 1905 theMacBrayne steamshipClydesdale hit the same obstruction in aForce 6 wind. The harbour patrol craftAppletree was sunk in a collision with anRAFpinnace east of the Lismore light in October 1940 with, according to one report, the loss of two lives. ThetrawlerMFVSolway Firth foundered south of this position in 1977.^[68]

Lismore, like otherHebridean islands, has suffered fromdepopulation since the 19th century, in large part due to theClearances.^[69] In 1798 there were 900 people living on the island and 1399 by 1841. Over the next 40 years the population more than halved to 621. By 1961 there were only 155 residents, and by the time of the 1991 census there were just 140.^[3] There are various examples of abandoned townships, such as Coille nam Bard.^[70] In the 2001 census, the population had risen slightly to 146, over 45% of whom were over 60 years old, making it the Scottish island with the oldest population.^[71]

The island's population was recorded as 192 at the2011 census,^[72] an increase of over 30% since 2001.^[73] In 2022 the resident population was recorded as 190.^[2] The majority of the island's working population are engaged in farming or fishing,^[17][74] and sheep raised on the island have a reputation for quality.^[75] Majority of the land is owner occupied.

Prior to 2007 there was nomains supply of drinking water on the island, water being supplied instead from wells and springs.^[6] In that year the thenScottish Executive announced plans for a mains supply to be provided at a cost of £1 million: a pipe was laid under Loch Linnhe and work was to begin on laying about 10 kilometres (6 mi) of pipes across Lismore.^[76] However,Scottish Water later decided to supply water from boreholes instead.^[77]

The island is linked to the mainland by two ferries: aCaledonian MacBrayne vehicle ferry making the crossing toOban and a council passenger ferry making the shorter crossing from Point, at the north-eastern tip of the island, toPort Appin. The B8045 is the main road on the island, which it traverses from beyond Kilcheran in the SW, to Point in the NE.^[4]

Facilities on Lismore include a shop which is also a post office, and a café. Bicycles may be hired at Point. Explore Lismore provide Land Rover Tours and the island's only taxi service. There is no petrol filling station.^[78] In 2001 29% of the population of the island spoke Gaelic^[79] and maintaining this heritage is one of the aims of theComann Eachdraidh Lios Mòr, the Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre.^[80]

Lismore is part of the multi-member ward of Oban, Lorn and the Isles in theArgyll and Bute council area.^[81] The island is represented byJenni Minto of theSNP at theHolyrood Parliament in Edinburgh who was elected for theArgyll and Bute constituency in 2011, and byBrendan O'Hara of the SNP at theWestminster parliament in London.

In 2023, the sole shop on the island, which is also the post office, was threatened with closure because the person running it had decided to return to school teaching. The Lismore Community Trust, a localcharitable organisation,^[82] organised a campaign to keep it open, and with the help of residents, holiday home owners and tourists raised more than their target of £70,000 to do so.^[83][84]

"The Piper's Cave" is a local story about apiper and his dog. According to Alexander Carmichael, the piper entered the Uamh-Chraidh (the "cave of pain") and intended to exit through the Uamh-an-duine (the "cave of the man"). The sounds of his bagpipes could be heard throughout theisland. When the piping ceased the dog emerged sightless and hairless but the piper was presumed to have drowned in one of the cave's impassable pools and was never seen again. His lament is recorded as:^[85]

Mis air airin baidh 'us burrail            I was drowning and howling

Measg nan glumag eagalaich             Amongst the horrid pools

Another story has St Moluag and St Mulhac conducting a boat race across the Lynn of Lorn with the first to land on Lismore having the right to found a monastery there. Realising that he was going to lose, Moluag cut off his finger and threw it ashore north of the broch of Tirefour, enabling him to claim victory.^[65]

TheBook of the Dean of Lismore was compiled by the titular dean, James MacGregor, in the 15th century. Held in theNational Library of Scotland, it is "one of the greatest treasures" of early Gaelic writing. However it was written inFortingall, Perthshire and its connection with Lismore itself, if any, is uncertain.^{[86][Note 3]}

• List of islands of Scotland

Notes

Footnotes

General references

Wikimedia Commons has media related toLismore.

Wikivoyage has a travel guide forLismore.

• Am Faclair Beag: An English - Scottish Gaelic dictionary incorporating Dwelly Faclair.com. Retrieved 1 December 2012.
• Isle of Lismore Community Website
• Lismore Landscape Project
• Lismore Historical Society
• Clan MacLea/Livingstone Society
• Walks on the Isle of Lismore
• Extract from The Isle of Lismore by Hector Macpherson

56°31′N5°30′W / 56.517°N 5.500°W /56.517; -5.500

• Lismore, Scotland
• Islands of Argyll and Bute
• Islands of the Inner Hebrides
• Parishes in Argyll

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