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Korean royal court cuisine

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Korean royal court cuisine
Korean name
Hangul
조선왕조 궁중요리
Hanja
朝鮮王朝宮中料理
RRJoseonwangjo gungjungyori
MRChosŏnwangjo kungjungyori

Korean royal court cuisine was the style of cookery withinKorean cuisine traditionally consumed at the court of theJoseon Dynasty, which ruledKorea from 1392 to 1897. There has been a revival of this cookery style in the 21st century. It is said that twelve dishes should be served along with rice and soup, with most dishes served inbangjja (bronzeware).

History

[edit]
A recreation of a royal kitchen in whichkungnyŏ (court ladies) worked, displayed in theDae Jang Geum Theme Park

Collectively known asgungjung eumsik during the pre-modern era, the foods of the royal palace reflected the opulent nature of the past rulers of the Korean peninsula. The opulent nature of the royalty is evidenced in examples as far back as theSilla kingdom, where a man-made lake (Anapji Lake, located inGyeongju) was created with multiple pavilions and halls for the sole purpose of opulentbanquets and a spring-fed channel,Poseokjeong, was created for the singular purpose of setting wine cups afloat during the writing of poems.[1]

Reflecting the regionalism of the kingdoms and bordering countries of the peninsula, the cuisine borrowed from each of these areas to function as a showcase. The royalty had the finest regional delicacies sent to the palace. Although there are records of banquets pre-dating the Joseon period, the majority of these records note a vast variety of foods without mentioning the specific foods present.[2] The meals cooked for the royal family were not seasonal, like a commoner's meal. Instead, they varied significantly day to day. The eight provinces were represented each month in turn in the royal palace by ingredients presented by their governors. This gave the cooks a wide assortment of ingredients to use for royal meals.[3]

Food held a very important place in Joseon period. Official positions were created within theSix Ministries (State Council,육조) that were charged with all matters related to procurement and consumption of food and drink for the royal court. The Board of Personnel (Ijo,이조) contained positions specific for attaining rice for the royal family. The Board of Rites (Yejo) were responsible for foods prepared for ancestor rites, attaining wines and other beverages, and medicinal foods. There were also hundreds of slaves and women who worked in the palace that had tasks such as makingtofu, liquor, tea, andtteok (rice cakes). The women were the cooks to the royal palace and were of commoner or low-status families. These women would be split into specific skill sets or "bureaus" such as the Bureau of special foods (Saenggwa-bang,생과방) or the Bureau of cooking foods (Soju-bang,소주방). These female cooks may have been assisted by male cooks from outside the palace during larger banquets when necessary.[4]

Five meals were generally served in the royal palace each day during the Joseon period, and records suggest this pattern had existed from antiquity. Three of these meals would be full-course meals, while the afternoon and after dinner meals would consist of lighter fare. The first meal,mieumsang (미음상), was served at sunrise on days when the king and queen were not taking herbal medicines. The meal consisted ofrice porridge (juk,) made with ingredients such as abalone (jeonbokjuk), white rice (huinjuk), mushrooms (beoseotjuk), pine nuts (jatjuk), and sesame (kkaejuk). The side dishes could consist of kimchi,nabak kimchi, oysters, soy sauce, and other items. The porridge was thought to give vitality to the king and queen throughout the day.[5]

Thesura (수라) were the main meals of the day. Breakfast was served at ten in the morning and the evening meals were served between six and seven at night. The set of three tables (surasang,수라상), were usually set with two types of rice, two types of soup, two types of stew (jjigae), one dish ofjjim (meat stew), one dish ofjeongol (a casserole of meat and vegetables), three types of kimchi, three types ofjang () and twelve side dishes, or called 12 cheop (12). The meals were set in thesurakan (수라간), a room specifically used for taking meals, with the king seated to the east and the queen to the west. Each had their own set of tables and were attended by three palace servant women known assura sanggung (수라상궁). These women would remove bowl covers and offer the foods to the king and queen after ensuring that the dishes were not poisoned.[6]

This Korean food heritage has been inscribed by the government as ImportantIntangible Cultural Property No. 38.Han Bok-ryeo (한복려;韓福麗) is the currentLiving National Treasure as the keeper of this property.[7][8]

Surasang setting

[edit]
Surasang setting

Thesurasang should be served with three tables and a hotpot. The largest round table on the left is the main table which contains main bowl, soups and stews, dishes, side dishes and fermented stored dishes. The small round table at the lower right corner contains redsura,gomtang or thick meat broth, dessert, tea, empty dishes and bowls. This table is also used to store the covers of bowls and dishes used in the main table. The rectangular table in the upper right corner contains eggs, sesame oil, various raw vegetables and several sauces. The hotpot in the middle right is heated with charcoal, and usually containsjeongol such assinseollo.

The setting was as follows:[9]

Korean royal court cuisine side table
Korean royal court cuisine

A, B, C:surasanggung (수라상궁)

  1. songsongi (송송이): cubedradishkimchi[9]
  2. jeotgugji (젓국지): kimchi from Korean cabbage seasoned withjeotgal[9]
  3. dongchimi (동치미): white kimchi[10]
  4. jeotgal (젓갈): fermented, salted seafood[11]
  5. jorigae (조리개): hard-boiled food with heavy seasonings[12]
  6. namul (나물): seasoned vegetable side dishes[13]
  7. saengche (생채): fresh salad[14]
  8. jjim (): steamed or boiled dishes[15]
  9. mareunchan (마른찬): dried foods[16]
  10. janggwa (장과): braised seafood[17]
  11. pyeonyuk (편육): boiled and seasoned meat pressed by heavy weight and then sliced thinly[18]
  12. changui (찬구이): friedCodonopsis lanceolata (더덕,deodeok) andkim[19]
  13. jeonyuhwa (전유화): pancake-like fried dish[20]
  14. Jeotguk jochi (젓국 조치): kind of fish soup[21]
  15. togu (토구): a plate used to hold bones during the meal[9]
  16. jang (): soy sauce[9]
  17. chojang (초장): soy sauce with vinegar[9]
  18. chogochujang (초 고추장): chili paste with vinegar[9]
  19. tojang jochi (토장 조치): soybean soup[9]
  20. huinsura (흰수라): white rice[9]
  21. gwaktang (곽탕): seaweed soup[9]
  22. chaeso (채소): vegetables[9]
  23. gogi (고기): meat[9]
  24. jangguk (장국): soybean paste soup[9]
  25. dalgyal (달걀): egg[9]
  26. jeongol (전골): type of stew[22]
  27. jaengban (쟁반) and chasu (차수):teapot and plate[9]
  28. gongjeobsi(공접시): empty plate[9]
  29. gonggi (공기): empty bowl[9]
  30. suran (수란): poached egg[9]
  31. hoe (): raw fish and meat[15]
  32. deoungui (더운구이): hot grilled meat[19]
  33. hongban (홍반) or patsura (팥수라): rice withazuki beans[9][23]
  34. gomtang (곰탕): soup from beef meat and bones[24]

Main dishes served in a bowl

[edit]

Sura

[edit]
Closeup of the ingredients ingoldongban orbibimbap

Sura (수라) is a bowl of boiled rice and grains. Two kinds ofsura must always be served. This includes whitesura.[25]

  • Whitesura (흰수라): boiled rice without any additional ingredients.
  • Redsura (홍반): boiled rice made with the boiled water ofazuki beans.
  • Five-grainsura (오곡수라): made by boiling rice, sweet rice, glutinous millet, and azuki beans[26]
  • Goldongban (골동반): boiled rice mixed with steamed vegetables, roasted beef, and a fried egg. In the royal palace,bibimbap was known asgoldongban.[27]

Juk, mieum, and eungi

[edit]

Juk () andmieum (미음) oreung-i (응이) are types of riceporridge usually served in the morning.Juk is thicker thanmieum in texture,[28][29] the latter of which is similar to the Westerngruel.

  • Omija eungi (오미자응이):Omija berries are boiled and honey is then added to the boiledomija. The boiledomija berries are taken out.Mung bean starch is then added and the liquid is boiled again.
  • Sok mieum (속미음): Sweet rice, redjujubes,ginseng root, andchestnuts are simmered.[30]
  • Jatjuk : Rice is soaked and pine nuts are ground before being boiled in water.
  • Hangin juk (행인죽): Apricot kernels are peeled and ground with rice. The rice and apricot seed mixture is boiled.
  • Heukimjajuk (흑임자죽): Black sesame seeds are ground and boiled with rice.
  • Tarakjuk (타락죽): Soaked rice is boiled with water, and then cow milk is added. It is then boiled some more.
  • Janggukjuk (장국죽): Ground beef and choppedshiitake mushrooms are boiled together.
  • Other dishes includedalgyal samhap mieum,jo mieum,sok mieum,chajo mieum,yulmu eungi,nokmal eungi, andomija eungi.

Guksu

[edit]
Domimyeon, stuffed sea bream casserole with vegetables and vermicelli

Guksu (국수) are noodles that are prepared with buckwheat or wheat flour, with the former being preferred.

Mandu and ddeokguk

[edit]

Mandu (만두) are boiled or steamed dumplings.Mandu dough is made from either wheat flour orbuckwheat. The dough is then stuffed with various fillings.Tteokguk (떡국) is a soup made oftteok (glutinous rice cakes).

  • Jangguk mandu (장국만두):Kimchi, pork, and tofu are used as filling.
  • Saengchi mandu (생치만두):Ringneck pheasant,dropwort, cabbage, and shiitake mushrooms are used as filling. Buckwheat dough is used. The preparedsaengchi mandu is then boiled in meat stock.
  • Donga mandu (동아만두):Mandu made withwinter melon, chicken and starch. It is steamed and then boiled in meat stock.
  • Pyeonsu (편수):Mandu made with beef, cucumber, green bean sprouts,shiitake mushrooms, androck tripe.
  • Tteokguk (떡국):Tteok sliced in rounds to resemble coins, and boiled with meat stock. It is served with egg pancake slices and roasted ground meat.
  • Other varieties includegyuasang (규아상) andjunchi mandu (만두).
  • Eo mandu (어만두):Mandu made with thinly sliced fish flesh as its wrap and stuffed with minced beef, vegetables, and several spices.

Dishes

[edit]

Tang

[edit]

Tang is a type of soup made withbeef shank, intestines, a knuckle (bone) and beef brisket.

  • Malgeun guk (맑은 국): a hot and clear soup, and includesMu-guk (무국), clear beef soup,Miyeok guk, driedpollock soup, etc.
  • Gomguk: a thick soup made so by simmering for a long time. Varieties includegomtang (곰탕),seolleongtang (설렁탕),yukgaejang (육개장), etc.
  • Tojangguk (토장국): a soup flavored withdoenjang (fermented soybean paste). This includes cabbagetonjangguk, spinachtojangguk, etc.
  • Naengguk : a soup served cold. This includeskkaeguktang,oinaengguk, andwakame cold soup.

Jochi and gamjeong

[edit]

Jochi (조치) andgamjeong (감정) are stew-like dishes which are now calledjjigae. If seasoned withgochujang, they are calledgamjeong.Jochi is seasoned with salt or salted shrimp. Other varieties include:

  • Crabgamjeong
  • Cucumbergamjeong
  • Oysterjochi
  • Zucchinijochi
  • Fishjochi

Jjim and seon

[edit]
Baechuseon, steamed and stuffedbachu (napa cabbage) roll

Jjim (): steamed or boiled beef, pork, and fish seasoned with vegetables.Seon () is steamed vegetables, tofu, and fish stuffed with fillings made with beef or chicken and onions.

  • Swellfishjjim
  • Bure jjim (부레찜)
  • Red sea breamjjim orPagrus majorjjim
  • Tteok
  • Ox tailjjim
  • Dubuseon (두부선), steamedtofu with fillings
  • Gajiseon (가지선), made with eggplant
  • Oiseon (오이선), made with cucumber
  • Hobakseon (호박선), made with zucchini
  • Museon (무선), made withradish
  • Baechuseon (배추선), made withnapa cabbage

Jeongol and sinseollo

[edit]
Sinseollo

Jeongol andsinseollo are similar to Westernstew or Chinesehotpot.Sinseollo (which is a variety ofjeongol) is boiled in meat stock with various vegetables and mushrooms in a specific cooking pot with holes.Jeongol andsinseollo are served with aburner.

  • Domi guksu jeongol, made with noodles andRed seabream
  • Nakji jeongol, made with small octopus
  • Dubu jeongol, made with tofu

Side dishes

[edit]

Saengchae

[edit]

Saengchae (생채) is like asalad seasoned with salt, vinegar, soy sauce, ormustard sauce.

Namul

[edit]

Namul (나물) are any variety of steamed vegetables seasoned with hot pepper, garlic, green onion, salt, and sesame or perilla oil. Typical vegetables includespinach,radish,royal fern,bracken,zucchini, green bean sprouts,Korean bellflower,bamboo shoots, etc. In some cases,dangmyeon (potato starch noodles) and roasted beef can be used as well.

Jorigae

[edit]

Jorigae (조리개) hard-boiled foods with heavy seasonings. Meats, fish and vegetable are mainly used.

  • Beefjorigae (우육조리개)
  • Sliced steamed beefjorigae (우편육조리개)
  • Sliced steamed porkjorigae (돈편육조리개)
  • Small yellow croakerjorigae (조기조리개)

Jeonyuhwa

[edit]
Bindaetteok

Jeonyuhwa (전유화) or sometimesjeon: a dish resembling a pancake. The main ingredients can be lightly battered with egg and wheat flour. Eggs, flour, and other ingredients can be mixed to make pancakes.

Gui

[edit]
Deodeok gui

Gui is a genericKorean cuisine term for roasted and seasoned dishes. The main ingredients includegreen laver, beef, the root ofdeodeok (Codonopsis lanceolata;더덕), fish, mushrooms, vegetables,Aralia elata sprouts (두릅), etc.

  • Garibi gui (가리비구이) orgari gui (가리구리), old term forgalbi, grilledshort ribs seasoned with soy sauce
  • Garibi gui (가리비구이), grilledscallops
  • Neobiani (너비아니), ancient form ofbulgogi[31]
  • Pogui (포구이), grilledpo (either dried meat jerky, or fish)
  • Dak sanjeok (닭산적), grilled chicken and vegetables on skewers
  • Hwayang seok (화양적), various marinated ingredients grilled on skewers

Hoe (hweh)

[edit]
Yukhoe (육회;肉膾)

Hoe () is raw fish or raw seasoned beef

  • Yukhoe, raw seasoned beef
  • Gaksaek hoe (각색회)
  • Gabhoe (갑회), etc.

Jang (장류)

[edit]
  • sauce
    • Doenjang : soybean paste like miso, but containing some whole and partially crushed beans, fermented in crocks until very mellow
    • Cheonggukjang : more pungent soybean paste, fermented for only a few days. Contains some whole or partially crushed soybeans.
    • Cheongjang (청장): "bright" sauce (soy sauce with vinegar)
    • Gochujang: hot pepper soybean paste sauce
    • Chogochujang (초고추장): vinegar hot pepper soybean paste sauce
    • Gyeojajeub (겨자즙): mustard sauce

Banchan (반찬)

[edit]
  • dishes
    • Changui (찬구이): cold roast of laver andCodonopsis lanceolata root, abonnet bellflower species calleddeodeok (더덕) in Korean
    • Deoungui (더운구이): hot roast of meat, fish, etc.
    • Jeonyuhwa (전유화): pancake of meat, fish, and vegetables
    • Pyeonyuk (편육): steamed meat
    • Sukchae (숙채): steamed vegetables
    • Saengchae (생채): raw seasoned vegetables
    • Jorim: lightly boiled meat, fish and vegetables with seasoning
    • Janggwa (장과): fermented vegetables in soy sauce
    • Jeotgal: fermented salty fish
    • Mareulchan (마른찬): dried slices of meat seasoned with spices, fried kelp, and dried salty fish
    • Hoe (): raw fish or beef, or fermented raw fish
    • Chansuran (찬수란): cold soup with vegetables or boiled meat
    • Chasu (차수): tea made from grains

Dessert

[edit]

Mostly made of rice, it is eaten as a dessert or onChuseok, which falls on the 15th day of the 8th month in theKorean calendar (lunisolar). These rice cakes vary from containing sweet red bean rice to sesame seeds. Most of these rice cakes are mildly sweet and are enjoyed by everyone from young to old.

Tea and fruit punch

[edit]

A sweet rice punch. Being an iconic Korean traditional drink, several varieties of cannedsikhye are now widely available.

A sweet drink flavored with ginger andcinnamon. Softened driedpersimmons and pine nuts are added at serving time.

  • FruitHwachae: fruit punch made by mixing several fruits together, or only one fruit used. The ingredients are cherries, strawberries, peaches, or watermelons. There are also hwachae with floating azalea petals, boiled barley, pine pollen, or slices of pear inomija-flavored water, sweetened with honey or sugar.

See also

[edit]

Notes

[edit]
  1. ^Pettid, 129
  2. ^Pettid, 130.
  3. ^Pettid, 132.
  4. ^Pettid, 130-132.
  5. ^Pettid, 133.
  6. ^Pettid, 134-135.
  7. ^"Special Interview - Han Bok-Ryeo, Master of Korean Royal Cuisine".HanCinema. 2009-12-07. Retrieved2013-05-10.
  8. ^"Vive La Korean Food! Hallyu Revitalizes Culinary Tradition".The Korea Times. 20 March 2008. Retrieved2013-05-10.
  9. ^abcdefghijklmnopqrsPettid, Michael J. Daily Meals, Korean cuisine: an illustrated history. China: Reaktion Books Ltd, pages 133-138. (2008)ISBN 978-1-86189-348-2
  10. ^"Types of kimchi".Korea Tourism Organization. Archived fromthe original on 2013-01-05. Retrieved2013-03-26.
  11. ^"Jeotgal". Seoul City. Archived fromthe original on 2004-04-23.
  12. ^"Health food – Chiyuk-jorigae". Suragan. Archived fromthe original on February 16, 2022. Retrieved2013-05-14.
  13. ^"The Wide World of Namul". About.com. 2011-06-17. Archived fromthe original on 2011-07-30. Retrieved2013-04-04.
  14. ^"Saengchae".Korea Tourism Organization. Archived fromthe original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  15. ^ab"The general kinds of Korea Food".Korea Tourism Organization. Archived fromthe original on 2012-05-08. Retrieved2013-04-04.
  16. ^"Mareunchan".Korea Tourism Organization. Archived fromthe original on 2016-03-04. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  17. ^"Janggwa".Korea Tourism Organization. Archived fromthe original on 2016-03-05. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  18. ^Lee Jong-im Director, Korea Food and Culture Research Center."Pyeonyuk : Sliced Beef".Koreana. Archived fromthe original on 2015-04-12. Retrieved2013-04-05.
  19. ^ab궁중음식 (in Korean). e-foodservice.co.kr. Archived fromthe original on 2001-11-15. Retrieved2013-05-14.
  20. ^"A List of Korean Savory Pancakes". About.com. Archived fromthe original on 2013-02-11. Retrieved2013-04-05.
  21. ^젓국 (in Korean). Foodnara. Archived fromthe original on July 3, 2013. Retrieved2013-05-15.
  22. ^"Korean Food: Stews". Life in Korea. Archived fromthe original on 2013-03-08. Retrieved2013-04-03.
  23. ^홍반 (in Korean). Daum Dictionary. Retrieved2013-05-15.
  24. ^"GOM-TANG". Trifood.com. Archived fromthe original on 2011-05-29. Retrieved2013-04-02.
  25. ^"Food Fit For A King". Korea Taste. 2011-05-09. Archived fromthe original on 2011-12-23. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  26. ^오곡수라 (in Korean). Daum Dictionary. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  27. ^골동반 (in Korean). Daum Dictionary. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  28. ^죽,'현대'와 죽이맞다 (in Korean).The Chosun Ilbo. 2012-07-10. Archived fromthe original on 2015-04-02. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  29. ^죽, 미음, 응이 (in Korean). Hanjin Mall. Archived fromthe original on 2015-04-02. Retrieved2013-05-13.
  30. ^속미음Archived 2010-03-06 at theWayback Machine (in Korean)Doosan Encyclopedia
  31. ^Neobiani uses the same sauce as Bulgogi(Korean Barbecue), but the meat is thicker and its cooking methods are relatively simple because it does not require cooking vegetables together. The beef is cut into thick portions, and in order to tenderize the meat and give the same texture as steak, small knife cuts are made all around the meat, and after marinating in a sauce that is made less sweet, it is grilled over an open fire or in a pan."Korean Food Foundation". Archived fromthe original on 2014-03-15. Retrieved2014-03-15.

References

[edit]
  • Pettid, Michael J.,Korean Cuisine: An Illustrated History, London: Reaktion Books Ltd., 2008.
  • 조문수.궁중음식 [Korean royal court cuisine] (in Korean).Jeju University. Archived fromthe original on 15 November 2001. Retrieved16 May 2009.

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