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Akontusz (Polish:kontusz,pl. kontusze;Ukrainian:кунтуш,romanized: kuntush;Lithuanian:kontušas; originally fromHungarian:köntös,lit. 'robe') is a type of outer garment worn by the Hungarian and Polish–Lithuanian malenobility. It became popular in the 16th century and came to thePolish–Lithuanian Commonwealth rule via Hungary from Turkey. In the 17th century, worn over an inner garment (żupan), thekontusz became a notable element of male Polish national andZaporozhian Cossack attire.
Thekontusz was a long robe, usually reaching to below the knees, with a set of decorative buttons down the front. The sleeves were long and loose, on hot days worn untied, thrown on the back. In winter a fur lining could be attached to thekontusz, or adelia worn over it. Thekontusz was usually of a vivid colour, and the lining was of a contrasting hue. Thekontusz was tied with a long, wide sash called apas kontuszowy.
Thekontusz was more of a decorative garment than a practical one. Tradition states that the firstkontusze were worn by szlachta who captured them fromOttomans to display as loot, which itself possibly originated from Mongol Haiqing which had openings in armpit.[citation needed]
Throwingkontusz sleeves on one's back and stroking one'smoustache was considered to be a signal of readiness for a fight.[citation needed]
In 1776,Sejmdeputies from differentvoivodeships of Poland were obliged to wear different colouredżupany andkontusze denoting theirvoivodeships.
In Poland, thekontusz was worn mainly by the nobility, but it was also adopted by theZaporozhian cossacks when Ukraine andRuthenia were under Polish rule.
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