Khandua (AlsoManiabandi orKataki) is a traditional "bandha" orikatsari produced fromOdisha[1][2][3][4][5]worn by women during wedding[6][7] and a special type of which is worn byJagannath.The clothes contain texts ofGita Govinda on them.[8]Kenduli Khandua, a special form of Khandua of 12 ft and 2kani (eachkani measures the length of a hand) is offered toJagannath to wear as khandua with stanzas and illustration from Gita Govinda.[9][10]
The wordKhandua inOdia translates to the cloth worn in the lower half of the body. Traditionally Kentuli Khandua is offered to Jagannath as lower cloth. Due to the place of origin, Maniabandha of Cuttack district, the other two namesKataki andManiabandhi are originated.[10]
Weaver communities of Maniabandha and Nuapatana[10][11] ofCuttack traditionally weave this kind of pata. During the rule of Gajapatis, sarees are made and transported toJagannath Temple. Nilakantha Deva, the king ofBadakhemundi was offeredkhandua sari made up of one piece of khandua silk called caukandika.[12][13]
Khandua is traditionally red or orange in color. The red color is prepared naturally from theshorea robusta (sal tree).[7] The design motif has an auspicious elephant that representsBuddha surrounded by trailing vine with peacocks in it, a large many petaled flower, a unique Orissan animal calledNabagunjara, adeulakumbha. The elephant in Khandua ikat from Nuapatana usually varies from elephant motives in ikat fromSambalpuri sari as well as ikat from other parts of Orissa.[14]Khandua has plain borders in contrary to borders with motifs in case of the other ikat of Orissa.[15]