Kargil district | |
|---|---|
 View of Kargil Town | |
![A map showing Indian-administered Ladakh (shaded in tan) in the disputed Kashmir region[1]](/mt/?noimg=&dark=on&url=https%3a%2f%2fen.wikipedia.org%2fwiki%2fFile%3aKashmir_region._LOC_2003626427_-_showing_sub-regions_administered_by_different_countries.jpg) | |
 Location of Kargil district in Ladakh | |
 Interactive map of Kargil district | |
| Coordinates (Kargil):34°34′N76°08′E / 34.56°N 76.13°E /34.56; 76.13 | |
| Administeringcountry |  India |
| Union Territory |  Ladakh |
| Capital | Kargil |
| Established | 1 July 1979 |
| Headquarters | Kargil |
| Tehsils | Kargil, Shargole, Shakar-Chiktan, Sankoo and Taisuru |
| Government | |
| • Deputy Commissioner | Rakesh Kumar,IAS |
| • Chief Executive Councillor | Mohd Jaffer Akhoon,JKNC |
| • Lok Sabha constituencies | Ladakh |
| • MP | Mohmad Haneefa,Ind[3] |
| Area | |
• Total | 14,086 km2 (5,439 sq mi) |
| Population (2011) | |
• Total | 140,802 |
| • Density | 9.9959/km2 (25.889/sq mi) |
| • Urban | 16,338 |
| Demographics | |
| • Literacy | 71.34% |
| • Sex ratio | 810♀/ 1000♂ |
| Languages | |
| • Official | English[2] |
| • Spoken | Purgi,Shina,Ladakhi,Urdu,Balti,Tibetan |
| Time zone | UTC+05:30 (IST) |
| Vehicle registration | JK 07(till 2019) LA-01 |
| Website | kargil |
Kargil district is a district inIndian-administeredLadakh in thedisputedKashmir-region,[1] which is administered as aunion territory ofLadakh. It is named after the city ofKargil, where the district headquarters lies. The district is bounded by the Indian-administered union territory ofJammu and Kashmir to the west, the Pakistani-administeredadministrative territory ofGilgit–Baltistan to the north, Ladakh'sLeh district to the east, and the Indian state ofHimachal Pradesh to the south. Encompassing the historical regions known asPurig, the district lies to the northeast of theGreat Himalayas and encompasses part of theZanskar Range.Its population inhabits the river valleys ofSuru,Wakha Rong (not to be confused with theRong Valley in Leh district), andSod Valley.
Kargil district was originally created in 1979, when Ladakh was part of thestate of Jammu and Kashmir.[4] In 2003, Kargil was granted aLadakh Autonomous Hill Development Council (LAHDC). In 2019, Ladakh became aunion territory, with Kargil and Leh being its joint capitals. In 2024, theDrass andZanskar districts were separated out from Kargil district.
Shia Muslims comprise the majority of the population of the district.
The pre-2024 Kargil district lies between the crest of theGreat Himalaya Range and theIndus River of Ladakh. It consists of two river valleys: theSuru River and its tributaries in the north, and theZanskar River and its tributaries in the south. ThePenzi La pass separates the two. The Suru flows north intoBaltistan and joins the Indus River nearMarol. The Zanskar River flows east and debouches into the Indus River inLeh district near a location called "Sangam".
The Suru River has two significant tributaries:Wakha Rong,[a] which flows northwest fromNamika La to join the Suru River near Kargil, and theDras River, which originates near theZoji La pass and joins the Suru River a short distance north of Kargil.[b] Wakha Rong, also called the "Purik river", contains the main travel route between Kargil and Leh, and lent its name to the Kargil region itself as "Purig".[5] The Dras River valley has historically been a subdivision calledDrass.
Zanskar was a traditional Buddhist kingdom formed in the 10th century, which became subject to the Ladakhi kings.
Per the 2011 census, the Kargil tehsil, which includes the Drass and Wakha Rong valleys, contains 61% of the population of the district. The Sankoo tehsil, representing the upper Suru valley, contains 10% of the population and theZanskar tehsil contains 29% of the population.[6]
The Kargil district is particularly vulnerable to landslides, cloudbursts, and flash floods. The main highways connecting Kargil with adjacent regions (NH-1D and NH-301) are prone to landslides. Recurring flash floods were observed in the surroundings of the Kargil town in 2006, 2010, 2013, 2014, 2016 and 2018. These flash floods caused massive damages to roads, buildings, and agricultural area.[7]
Purig is believed to have been conquered, along with Ladakh proper (modernLeh district), byLhachen Palgyigon, the son of the West Tibetan KingKyide Nyimagon, inc. 900 AD. After his father's death, Palgyigon controlled the vast territory calledMaryul, which stretched from theZoji La pass to the basin of theSengge Zangbo river (upper Indus river in Tibet).[8][9] The third son, Detsukgon, inheritedZanskar along withLahul and Spiti.[10] From this time onwards, Purig was attached to Ladakh. Zanskar had an independent existencence even though it was occasionally conquered and made a tributary to Ladakh.
The Suru Valley was historically ruled fromKartse (34°16′02″N76°00′06″E / 34.2672°N 76.0018°E /34.2672; 76.0018 (Kartse Khar)), a fort in a branch valley nearSankoo. An inscription names its ruler as Tri-gyal (Wylie:k'ri rgyal). TibetologistA. H. Francke believes that the dynasty of Tri-gyals might have been in existence prior to the formation of theMaryul kingdom.[11] However, there is no mention of it inLadakh Chronicles.[12][13][c]
The principality of Kartse apparently controlled the entire western Ladakh, fromMulbekh andWanla in the east toDras in the west, even though the extent of territory would have varied with time. The Tri-gyals were Buddhist and adopted the religion from Kashmir in ancient times. They commissioned a giantMaitreya rock carving in the vicinity of Kartse, and others atMulbekh and possiblyApati.[14]
Islam arrived in theKashmir Valley around 1320, a new force to be reckoned with. During the rule of SultanSikandar (r. 1394–1416), his general Rai Madari crossed the Zoji La pass and conquered Purig and Baltistan. This paved the way for the conversion of the two regions to Islam.[15] SultanZain-ul-Abidin ran an expedition to Tibet, conquering Ladakh along the way. The Tri-gyal of Kartse is said to have become his vassal and assisted in the invasions.[16] The first dynasty of Ladakh did not last much longer after this.[17] A second "Namgyal" dynasty was established around 1460 AD.[18]
Some time after this, a Muslim chieftaincy connected toSkardu appeared in Purig, first atSod northeast of Kargil, then with a branch atChiktan northeast ofNamika La.[19]During the invasion of Ladakh byMirza Haidar Dughlat in 1532, Sod and Chiktan appear to have submitted, but not Kartse. Joint raids were conducted on Kartse but they failed. The chief or commander of Suru, named "Baghan", is also said to have been killed during one of the raids.[20][21][22][d]
Tashi Namgyal (r. 1555–1575) reestablished the old borders by conquering Purig as well as west Tibet.[18] His successorsTsewang Namgyal I andJamyang Namgyal were equally energetic. However, Jamyang Namgal suffered a reverse, having been captured by the chief ofSkardu, Ali Mir, better known asAli Sher Khan Anchan (r. 1590–1625). Jamyang Namgyal married Ali Mir's daughter Gyal Khatun and got reinstated as the ruler. Their sonSengge Namgyal again rejuvenated Ladakh to old glory and in fact went further by annexing the kingdom ofGuge in west Tibet.
In 1586, Kashmir became aMughal province. Purig and Baltistan were Islamic, and Mughal involvement in the affairs of the region became endemic. In 1638, emperorShah Jahan sent a force to intervene in Baltistan and installed Ali Mir's son Adam Khan as the ruler. The joint forces of Mughal Kashmir and Adam Khan blocked Sengge Namgyal's efforts to regain Purig, forcing him to sue for peace. When Sengge Namgyal reneged on his tribute, the emperor imposed economic sanctions against Ladakh barring all trade, which impoverished Ladakh.[23]
Under his son Deldan Namgyal (Bde-ldan-rnam-rgyal) between 1640 and 1675, Purig returned to the control of Ladakh.Zanskar and other parts of the modernLadakh Division were also conquered.[24]
In 1834, theDogra rulerGulab Singh ofJammu, acting under the suzeraity of theSikh Empire, sent the governor ofKishtwar, generalZorawar Singh, to conquer the territory between Jammu and Tibet. Marching fromKishtwar, Zorawar Singh reached Purig and defeated theBhotia leader Mangal atSankoo in August 1834.Kartse, the then capital of Purig, fell into Zorawar Singh's hands. He built a fort there before advancing towards Leh. Tshed-Pal, the Gyalpo of Leh, was defeated and reinstalled as a subsidiary of the Dogras. Meanwhile, the chief ofSod rebelled and Zorawar Singh returned to reassert his authority.Zanskar subsequently offered submission.[25][26]
The Purigis rebelled repeatedly, instigated by Sikh governor Mihan Singh ofKashmir. They also received support from Ahmed Shah ofBaltistan. Zorawar Singh returned in 1839 to quell the rebellion and conquered Baltistan as well.[27][28]
After the conquest, the region of the present Kargil district was organised into threeilaqas of the Kishtwarwazarat,[e] based at Kargil, Dras and Zanskar respectively. They were headed by civil officers calledThanadars.[29] Later, Suru was made into a separateilaqa.[30]
Following theFirst Anglo-Sikh War and theTreaty of Amritsar (1846), Gulab Singh was made the Maharaja of the newly carved-outprincely state ofJammu and Kashmir underBritish suzerainty.[31] The princely state was organised into two large provinces,Jammu andKashmir. Ladakh and Skardu were set up as districts in the Jammu province, calledwazarats. The three Purigilaqas were included in the Skarduwazarat.[32] Zanskar continued to be attached to Kishtwar.
In 1901, a major reorganisation of the frontier districts took place. A new Ladakhwazarat was created, being one of the twowazarats of the Frontier Districts province. Kargil was made a new tehsil under the Ladakhwazarat, with the three Purigilaqas (Drass, Kargil and Suru), the Zanskarilaqa from the Kishtwar district, and theKharmangilaqa from the erstwhile Skardu district. Kargil, Leh and Skardu became the three tehsils of the Ladakhwazarat.[33] Initially, the administration of thewazarat used to spend four months each at Leh, Kargil and Skardu. But shifting the entire staff so often proved onerous, and so the shifting was eventually limited to Leh and Skardu.
During theIndo-Pakistani War of 1947, pitched battles were fought around Kargil, and the entire area includingDrass andZoji La Pass initially coming under the control ofGilgit Scouts. By November 1948, the Indian troops reclaimed all of Kargil and Leh tehsils and some portions of the Kharamang ilaqa bordering the Dras river.[34] They remained with India after the ceasefire, forming the Ladakh district of theJammu and Kashmir state of India.
During theIndo-Pakistani War of 1971 the entire Kargil region including key posts was captured by Indian troops under leadership of Col.Chewang Rinchen.[35][better source needed] To straighten the line of control in the area, the Indian Army launched night attacks when the ground temperatures sank to below −17 °C and about 15 enemy posts located at height of 16,000 feet and more were captured.[36] After Pakistan forces lost the war and agreed to theShimla Agreement, the strategic areas near Kargil remained with India.[37]
In 1979, Ladakh was divided into Kargil and Leh districts within the Jammu and Kashmir state.
In the spring of 1999, under a covert plan of thenPakistan Army chiefPervez Musharraf, armed infiltrators fromBaltistan, aided by the Pakistani Army, occupied vacant high-altitude posts in the Kargil and Drass regions. The result was a limited-scale conflict (Kargil War) between the two nuclear-equipped nations, which ended with India regaining the Kargil region through military action and diplomatic pressure. However, there remains the controversy of the mountain peak, knows asPoint 5353 or the Marpo La Peak, which is still believed to be under Pakistan's control.
In August 2019 theParliament of India passed anact that separated Ladakh from Jammu and Kashmir into an independentunion territory of India. Kargl and Leh continue to be the two districts of Ladakh, with the Kargil town designated as a joint capital of the union territory.[38]
Kargil district is situated in the deep south-western part of theHimalayas, giving it a cool,temperate climate.Summers are warm with cool nights, whilewinters are long and cold with temperatures often dropping to −15 °C (5 °F) with recorded temperatures of −60 °C (−76 °F) in the tiny town ofDras, situated 56 km (35 mi) from Kargil town. The Zanskar Valley is colder. Kargil district is spread over 14,086 km2 (5,439 sq mi). TheSuru River flows through the district.
The climate is cold and temperate. The average annual temperature in Kargil is 8.6 °C. About 318 mm of precipitation falls annually. The driest month is November with 6 mm. Most precipitation falls in March, with an average of 82 mm. The warmest month of the year is July with an average temperature of 23.3 °C. In January, the average temperature is −8.8 °C. It is the lowest average temperature of the whole year. The difference in precipitation between the driest month and the wettest month is 76 mm. The average temperatures vary during the year by 32.1 °C.[39]
| Climate data for Kargil, India | |||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Month | Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | Year |
| Mean daily maximum °C (°F) | −4.3 (24.3) | −2.6 (27.3) | 1.3 (34.3) | 10.5 (50.9) | 18.9 (66.0) | 24.7 (76.5) | 26.2 (79.2) | 25.6 (78.1) | 22.2 (72.0) | 15.8 (60.4) | 7.8 (46.0) | −3.9 (25.0) | 11.9 (53.3) |
| Mean daily minimum °C (°F) | −13.2 (8.2) | −12.9 (8.8) | −7.9 (17.8) | 1.3 (34.3) | 7 (45) | 11.3 (52.3) | 12.4 (54.3) | 12 (54) | 10 (50) | 0.7 (33.3) | −8.6 (16.5) | −12.1 (10.2) | 0.0 (32.1) |
| Averageprecipitation mm (inches) | 46 (1.8) | 51 (2.0) | 82 (3.2) | 35 (1.4) | 26 (1.0) | 11 (0.4) | 7 (0.3) | 10 (0.4) | 10 (0.4) | 8 (0.3) | 6 (0.2) | 26 (1.0) | 318 (12.4) |
| Source: Climate-Data.org[40] | |||||||||||||
The Kargil district was formed in July 1979, by separating it fromLeh. Kargil has 5 Sub-Divisions, 8 tehsils, and 14 Blocks.
Sub-Divisions (5):Drass,Kargil,Shakar-Chiktan,Sankoo,Zanskar (Padum)
Tehsils (8):Drass,Kargil,Shakar-Chiktan,Shargole,Sankoo,Trespone (Trespone),Taisuru,Zanskar (Padum)
Blocks (14):Drass,Kargil,Shakar,Chiktan,Shargole,Sankoo,Trespone,Saliskote,Gund Mangalpore,Taisuru,Padum,Lungnaq,Cha,Zangla
Each block consists of a number ofpanchayats.
It forms part of theLadakh parliamentary constituency. Major political parties in the region includeNational Conference,Congress,PDP,BJP,LUTF (now merged with the BJP) and the erstwhile Kargil Alliance. The presentMember of Parliament (MP) for Ladakh isMohmad Haneefa.
Ladakh, a union territory without a legislature, does not have a legislative assembly but is represented in the Parliament.[41]
Sh. Rakesh Kumar (IAS) is the current District Development Commissioner for Kargil.[42]
Kargil District is administered by an elected body known as theLadakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, Kargil. The LAHDC-K was established in 2003.[43]
According to the2011 census Kargil district has apopulation of 140,802.[44] This gives it a ranking of 603rd in India (out of a total of640). The district has a population density of 10 inhabitants per square kilometre (26/sq mi). Itspopulation growth rate over the decade 2001-2011 was 20.18%. Kargil has asex ratio of 810females per every 1000 males, and aliteracy rate of 71.34%.[45][needs update]
| Religion (and population) | Sex Ratio | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Muslim (pop 108,239) | 941 | |||
| Buddhist (pop 20,126) | 975 | |||
| Hindu (pop 10,341) | 936 | |||
| Other (pop 2,096) | 133 | |||
| Total (pop 140,802) | 810 | |||
| Religion | Percent(%) | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Islam | 76.87% | |||
| Buddhism | 14.29% | |||
| Hinduism | 7.34% | |||
| Sikhism | 0.83% | |||
| Other or not stated | 0.67% | |||
Of the total population, 77% are Muslims, of which 63% followShia Islam. Most of the district's Muslims are found in the north (Kargil town,Drass, and the lowerSuru valley). Of the remainder, 17% of the total population practisesTibetan Buddhism andBön, mostly found inZanskar with small populations in the upper Suru valley (Rangdum) and around Shergol, Mulbekh andGarkhone. The remaining 8% of the population followsHinduism andSikhism, though as many as 95% of them are male.
Much of Kargil population is inhabited by thePurigpa andBalti people ofTibetan origin. They converted from Buddhism to Islam in the 14th century and intermingled with other Aryan people.[47] Muslims mainly inhabit the valley of Drass and speakShina, a small number community, known asBrokpa, inhabit theDha-Hanu region and Garkone village along the Indus River. SomeArghons andShina have also settled in Kargil town.
| Kargil district: religion, gender ratio, and % urban of population, according to the 2011 Census[46] | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hindu | Muslim | Christian | Sikh | Buddhist | Jain | Other | Not stated | Total | |
| Total | 10,341 | 108,239 | 604 | 1,171 | 20,126 | 28 | 4 | 289 | 140,802 |
| 7.34% | 76.87% | 0.43% | 0.83% | 14.29% | 0.02% | 0.00% | 0.21% | 100.00% | |
| Male | 9,985 | 55,762 | 532 | 1,101 | 10,188 | 16 | 3 | 198 | 77,785 |
| Female | 356 | 52,477 | 72 | 70 | 9,938 | 12 | 1 | 91 | 63,017 |
| Gender ratio (% female) | 3.4% | 48.5% | 11.9% | 6.0% | 49.4% | 42.9% | 25.0% | 31.5% | 44.8% |
| Sex ratio (no. of females per 1,000 males) | 936 | 941 | 135 | 964 | 975 | 750 | 333 | 460 | 810 |
| Urban | 3,139 | 12,671 | 63 | 360 | 88 | 2 | 1 | 14 | 16,338 |
| Rural | 7,202 | 95,568 | 541 | 811 | 20,038 | 26 | 3 | 275 | 124,464 |
| % Urban | 30.4% | 11.7% | 10.4% | 30.7% | 0.4% | 7.1% | 25.0% | 4.8% | 11.6% |
ThePurgi dialect ofBalti is spoken by 65% while 10 per cent speakShina language in regions likeDrass andBatalikis.[49]Urdu is also spoke and understood in Kargil.[50]
Balti language has four variants/dialects and Purgi is the southern dialect of Balti language. Balti, is a branch of Archaic Western Tibetan language, is also spoken by the inhabitants of the four districts of (Baltistan) in Pakistan andTurtuk in theNubra valley of theLeh district as well. The Buddhists ofZanskar speakZanskari language of theLadakhi-Balti language group.[51]
Though earlier Tibetan contact has left a profound influence upon the people of both Kargil and Leh, after the spread of Shia Islam the people of Kargil were heavily influenced by Persian culture. This is apparent by the use of Persian words and phrases as well as in songs calledmarsias andqasidas. At least until recently, some Kargilis, especially those of theAgha families (descendants of Syed preachers who were in a direct line descent from the Islamic prophet,Muhammad) went toIraq for their education.[52] Native Ladakhis go for higher Islamic studies in seminaries inNajaf, Iraq andQom in Iran. These non-Agah scholars are popularly called as "Sheikh". Some among the most prominent religious scholars include Imam-e-Jummah,Sheikh Mussa Shariefi, Sheikh Ahmed Mohammadi,[53] Sheikh Hussain Zakiri and Sheikh Anwar.[54]
Social ceremonies such as marriages still carry many customs and rituals that are common to both the Muslims and Buddhists. Among the two districts of Ladakh, Kargil has a more mixed ethnic population and thus there are more regional dialects spoken in Kargil as compared to Leh. Local folk songs, which are calledrgya-glu andbalti ghazals, are still quite popular and are performed enthusiastically at social gatherings.
Kargil is home to many endangered wildlife species:
Some of the reptiles found in Kargil district are:
Aishwarya Maheshwari of theWorld Wildlife Fund (WWF) is quoted as saying, "It is here in Kargil that one of world's most elusive creatures, the snow leopard, roams wild and free. During my research I have learnt about the tremendous decline in wildlife sightings since the 1999 Kargil war, so much so that even the common resident birds had disappeared."[56][57][58]
Besides the endangered species, various birds are commonly seen in summer:
National Highway 1D, connectingSrinagar toLeh, passes through Kargil. This highway is typically open for traffic only from May to December due to heavy snowfall at theZoji La. Kargil is 204 km (127 mi) from the capital city ofSrinagar. There is a partially paved road leading from Kargil south toZanskar, which is also only open only from June to September. The total distance to Zanskar is nearly 220 km (140 mi). India and Pakistan have both considered linking the Pakistani town ofSkardu to Kargil with a bus route to reunite the Ladakh families separated by theline of control since 1972.[61]
Kargil is connected to the rest of India by high-altitude roads which are subject to landslides and are impassable in winter due to deep snows. TheNational Highway 1D connects Kargil toSrinagar. TheNH 301 connects Kargil with the remote Zanskar region. Upgradation of this road is going on to reduce the time travel between Kargil andPadum, tehsil headquarters ofZanskar region.[62]
TheNimmu–Padam–Darcha road is a major axis throughZanskar in Kargil district, connectingLahaul in Himachal with Leh. The construction of this road was completed in March 2024.[63][64]
Kargil Airport is a non-operational airport used only for defence purposes by theIndian Air Force. Kargil Airport has been included under Central Govt.'sUDAN scheme for commercial operations.[65][66] The nearest operational airport is Leh'sKushok Bakula Rimpochee Airport which is located 215 kilometres from Kargil.
There is no railway service currently in Ladakh, however, 2 railway routes are proposed- theBhanupli–Leh line and Srinagar–Kargil–Leh line.[67]
The situation between the two nations was complicated by the 1957–1959 uprising by Tibetans against Chinese rule. Refugees poured across the Indian border, and the Indian public was outraged. Any compromise with China on the border issue became impossible. Similarly, China was offended that India had given political asylum to the Dalai Lama when he fled across the border in March 1959. In late 1959, there were shots fired between border patrols operating along both the ill-defined McMahon Line and in the Aksai Chin.
Territorial Dispute: The situation along the Sino-Indian frontier continued to worsen. In late July (1959), an Indian reconnaissance patrol was blocked, "apprehended," and eventually expelled after three weeks in custody at the hands of a larger Chinese force near Khurnak Fort in Aksai Chin. ... Circumstances worsened further in October 1959, when a major class at Kongka Pass in eastern Ladakh led to nine dead and ten captured Indian border personnel, making it by far the most serious Sino-Indian class since India's independence.
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