The Karakoram begins in theWakhan Corridor in western Afghanistan and extends eastwards into Indian-administeredLadakh and Chinese-administeredAksai Chin, as well as the Chinese province ofXinjiang. Most of the Karakoram is located within the Pakistani-administeredGilgit-Baltistan region. The Karakoram is bounded on the east by theAksai Chin plateau, on the north-east by the edge of theTibetan Plateau, and on the north by the river valleys of theYarkand andKarakash rivers, beyond which lie theKunlun Mountains. At the north-west corner are thePamir Mountains. The southern boundary of the Karakoram is formed west to east by theGilgit,Indus, andShyok rivers, which separate the range from the north-western end of theHimalaya. These rivers flow north-west before making an abrupt turn south-westwards towards the plains ofPakistan. Roughly in the middle of the Karakoram range is theKarakoram Pass, which was part of a now unused trade route betweenLadakh andYarkand.
Karakoram is aTurkic term meaningblack gravel. The Central Asian traders originally applied the name to theKarakoram Pass.[8] Early European travelers, includingWilliam Moorcroft andGeorge Hayward, started using the term for the range of mountains west of the pass, although they also used the termMuztagh (meaning, "Ice Mountain") for the range now known as Karakoram.[8][9] Later terminology was influenced by theSurvey of India, whose surveyor,Thomas Montgomerie, in the 1850s, gave the labels K1 to K6 (K for Karakoram) to six high mountains visible from his station atMount Haramukh inKashmir Valley, codes extended further up to more than thirty.
In traditional Indian geography, the mountains were known asKrishnagiri (black mountains),Kanhagiri, andKanheri.[10]
Due to its altitude and ruggedness, the Karakoram is much less inhabited than parts of theHimalayas further east. European explorers first visited in the early 19th century, followed byBritish surveyors starting in 1856.
TheMuztagh Pass was crossed in 1887 by the expedition of ColonelFrancis Younghusband,[11] and the valleys above theHunza River were explored by General SirGeorge K. Cockerill in 1892. Explorations in the 1910s and 1920s established most of the geography of the region.
The Karakoram is in one of the world's most geologically active areas, at theplate boundary between the Indo-Australian plate and the Eurasian plate.[14]A significant part, somewhere between 28 and 50 percent, of the Karakoram Range is glaciated, covering an area of more than 15,000 square kilometres or 5,800 square miles,[15] compared to between 8 and 12 percent of the Himalaya and 2.2 percent of theAlps.[16] Mountainglaciers may serve as an indicator of climate change, advancing and receding with long-term changes in temperature and precipitation. The Karakoram glaciers are slightly retreating,[17][18][19] unlike the Himalayas, where glaciers are losing mass at a significantly higher rate, many Karakoram glaciers are covered in a layer of rubble which insulates the ice from the warmth of the sun.[20] Where there is no such insulation, the rate of retreat is high.[21]
While the current valley glaciers in the Karakoram reach a maximum length of 76 kilometres (47 mi), several of the ice-age valley glacier branches and main valley glaciers, had lengths up to 700 kilometres (430 mi). During the Ice Age, the glacier snowline was about 1,300 metres (4,300 ft) lower than today.[24][25]
The majority of the highest peaks are in theGilgit–Baltistan region administered by Pakistan. Baltistan has more than 100 mountain peaks exceeding 6,100 metres (20,000 ft) height from sea level.[citation needed] Following is a list for the highest peaks of the Karakoram. Included are some of the mountains named with a K code, the most well-known of which is theK2.
The naming and division of the various subranges of the Karakoram is not universally agreed upon. However, the following is a list of the most important subranges, following Jerzy Wala.[28] The ranges are listed roughly west to east.
Dandala Pass is the most important and earlier pass. It starts from Ghursaysaitang city to Yarqand in China. It is the main trade route between Khaplu, Ladakh, Kharmang to Yarqand, China.
Khunjerab Pass is the highest paved international border crossing at 4,693 m (15,397 ft). It serves the China-PakistanFriendship Highway, the "8th world wonder".[29]
The Khunjerab Pass is the only motorable pass across the range. The Shimshal Pass (which does not cross an international border) is the only other pass still in regular use.
The Karakoram mountain range has been referred to in a number ofnovels and movies.Rudyard Kipling refers to the Karakoram mountain range in his novelKim, which was first published in 1900.Marcel Ichac made a film titledKarakoram, chronicling a French expedition to the range in 1936. The film won the Silver Lion at theVenice Film Festival of 1937.Greg Mortenson details the Karakoram, and specifically K2 and theBalti, extensively in his bookThree Cups of Tea, about his quest to build schools for children in the region.K2 Kahani (The K2 Story) byMustansar Hussain Tarar describes his experiences at K2 base camp.[30]
^Tajikistan's Fedchenko Glacier is 77 km (48 mi) long. Baltoro and Batura Glaciers in the Karakoram are 57 km (35 mi) long, as is Bruggen or Pio XI Glacier in southern Chile. Measurements are from recent imagery, generally supplemented with Russian 1:200,000 scale topographic mapping as well as Jerzy Wala,Orographical Sketch Map: Karakoram: Sheets 1 & 2, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
^French, Patrick. (1994).Younghusband: The Last Great Imperial Adventurer, pp. 53, 56-60. HarperCollinsPublishers, London. Reprint (1995): Flamingo. London.ISBN0-00-637601-0.
^Veettil, B.K. (2012). "A Remote sensing approach for monitoring debris-covered glaciers in the high altitude Karakoram Himalayas".International Journal of Geomatics and Geosciences.2 (3):833–841.
^abKuhle, M. (1988). "The Pleistocene Glaciation of Tibet and the Onset of Ice Ages- An Autocycle Hypothesis.Tibet and High Asia. Results of the Sino-German Joint Expeditions (I)".GeoJournal.17 (4):581–596.doi:10.1007/BF00209444.S2CID129234912.
^Kuhle, M. (2006). "The Past Hunza Glacier in Connection with a Pleistocene Karakoram Ice Stream Network during the Last Ice Age (Würm)". In Kreutzmann, H.; Saijid, A. (eds.).Karakoram in Transition. Karachi, Pakistan: Oxford University Press. pp. 24–48.
^abcKuhle, M. (2011). "The High Glacial (Last Ice Age and Last Glacial Maximum) Ice Cover of High and Central Asia, with a Critical Review of Some Recent OSL and TCN Dates". In Ehlers, J.; Gibbard, P.L.; Hughes, P.D. (eds.).Quaternary Glaciation – Extent and Chronology, A Closer Look. Amsterdam: Elsevier BV. pp. 943–965. (glacier mapsdownloadable)
^abKuhle, M. (2001). "Tibet and High Asia (VI): Glaciogeomorphology and Prehistoric Glaciation in the Karakoram and Himalaya".GeoJournal.54 (1–4):109–396.doi:10.1023/A:1021307330169.
^Kuhle, M. (1994). "Present and Pleistocene Glaciation on the North-Western Margin of Tibet between the Karakoram Main Ridge and the Tarim Basin Supporting the Evidence of a Pleistocene Inland Glaciation in Tibet. Tibet and High Asia. Results of the Sino-German and Russian-German Joint Expeditions (III)".GeoJournal.33 (2/3):133–272.doi:10.1007/BF00812877.S2CID189882345.
^For Nepal, the heights indicated on the Nepal Topographic Maps are followed. For China and theBaltoro Karakoram, the heights are those of Mi Desheng's "The Maps of Snow Mountains in China". For theHispar Karakoram the heights on a Russian 1:100,000 topo map of"Hispar area expeditions". Archived fromthe original on 27 April 2008. Retrieved15 July 2008.
^Jerzy Wala,Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Zurich, 1990.
Kipling, Rudyard 2002.Kim (novel); ed. by Zohreh T. Sullivan. New York: W. W. Norton & Company.ISBN039396650X—This is the most extensive critical modern edition with footnotes, essays, maps, etc.
Kreutzmann, Hermann,Karakoram in Transition: Culture, Development, and Ecology in the Hunza Valley, Oxford, Oxford University Press, 2006.ISBN978-0-19-547210-3.
Shukurov, E. (2005),"The Natural Environment of Central and South Asia"(PDF), in Chahryar Adle (ed.),History of Civilizations of Central Asia, Vol. VI – Towards the contemporary period: from the mid-nineteenth to the end of the twentieth century, UNESCO, pp. 480–514,ISBN978-92-3-103985-0