| Jokduri | |
 Jokduri | |
| Korean name | |
|---|---|
| Hangul | 족두리; 족두; 족관 |
| Hanja | 簇頭里; 簇兜; 簇冠 |
| Revised Romanization | jokduri; jokdu; jokgwan |
| McCune–Reischauer | chokturi; choktu; chokkwan |
Ajokduri (Korean: 족두리) is a type of traditionalKoreancoronet worn by women for special occasions such asweddings.[1][2] Also known as ajokdu orjokgwan, it consists of an outer crown covered with blacksilk, and an inner which is filled withcotton and hardpaper. Its top is decorated withcloisonné ornaments. The upper part is vaguelyhexagonal and the bottom iscylindrical. The form of thejokduri gets narrower towards its base.[3][4][5]
Jokduri can be used to display the wearer's social status by being adorned with accessories made fromgold orsilver.[4]
It is said that thejokduri was derived from theMongolian woman's cap for outing, thegogori (姑姑里), in the lateGoryeo period. It began to be used in that period as intermarriages between Goryeo and theYuan dynasty ofChina happened. However, thejokduri during the Goryeo period is assumed to have been bigger and higher than the type seen in the Joseon period.
During the Joseon dynasty, thejokduri became smaller, with little difference in the overall shape between the top and the bottom. During the reign ofKing Gwanghaegun, black silk began to be used for the covering, whereas purple silk was used as the inner fabric. Thereafter, as women enjoyed wearing ajokduri, it became almost a national style in fashion.
In the late Joseon period,King Yeongjo (r. 1724–1776) andJeongjo (r. 1776–1800) prohibited women from wearinggache (wigs) and, instead, encouraged them to wear thejokduri. In 1788, the 12th year of King Jeongjo's reign, he published an interdictory decree onjokduri, a prohibition against excessive usage of cloisonné decorations, and the designation of black fabrics for the inner material such as cotton andbamboo.
Different kinds ofjokguri are used for weddings, funerals, and for daily use in the royal court.
