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Jewish deli

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Restaurant serving Ashkenazi Jewish cuisine
Katz's Delicatessen, a popular Jewish deli on theLower East Side inNew York City, featured inWhen Harry Met Sally.

AJewish deli, also known as aJewish delicatessen, is a store that serves various traditional dishes ofJewish cuisine, mostlyAshkenazi Jewish cuisine.[1] Known for their robust sandwiches, such aspastrami on rye andReuben sandwiches, they also specialize in traditionalJewish diaspora soups and other ethnically rooted dishes. As retaildelicatessens, most also sell a selection of their products such as sliced meats by the pound, prepared salads, pickles, and offer dine-in or take-out.[2]

The emergence of the Jewish deli developed in accordance with local culture. Jewish delis differed from their German deli counterparts mostly by beingkosher.[3] These days, while some delis have fullkosher certification, others operate in akosher-style, refraining frommixing meat and dairy in the same dish. Other Jewish delis serve non-kosher animal products such asbacon orshellfish and non-kosher dishes such as the Reuben sandwich.[4]

Jewish delis feature prominently inJewish culture, as well as in generalAmerican popular culture, particularly in the cities ofNew York,Chicago andLos Angeles as well as inCanada, especially inMontreal andToronto.[5] TheUnited Kingdom has also historically been a home to many Jewish delis, especially in theLondon area.[6]

In the United States

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Pastrami sandwich from Katz's Delicatessen, New York City

The origins of the American Jewish delicatessen can be traced to thewave of German immigration to the United States in the mid-1800s. In the decade spanning from 1850 to 1860 nearly one million Germans immigrated to America, both Jews and non-Jews, with 215,000 Germans arriving in theUnited States in 1854 alone.[7] Some of these immigrants opened storefronts to make a living, and to offer culturally familiar food to other immigrants. Many of the original establishments were inspired byGermandelikatessens, selling beeffrankfurters,sauerkraut,cold cuts,dill pickles andliverwurst.[8]

According to American author and professor Ted Merwin, the deli experienced its most significant growth not during the initial wave of immigration, as commonly assumed, but rather during theinterwar period of the 1920s and 1930s. During this time that the offspring of Jewish immigrants and Ashkenazi immigrants from Eastern Europe[9] began frequent delis in the theater district, where they indulged in sandwiches andcheesecake. The kosher deli trailed the Jewish community as it dispersed into the city's outer boroughs, serving as a tangible emblem of its members enduring commitment to their cultural heritage.[2]

After theHolocaust, a new Jewish population within the United States would facilitate the reintroduction of these community staples. While upon their arrival many of the post-war Jewish immigrants would work in the meat industry, some business owners would transform their butcher shops into operational delicatessens, something that many modern Americans are likely to be familiar with.[10]

As Jewish delis rose in popularity in New York, they became a bridge between second-generation Jewish immigrants and their origins. They served as a cultural gathering place for the community. Merwin suggests that the Jewish deli became a secular equivalent of thesynagogue for a generation of Jews who were no longer as interested in attending religious services.[2]The second generation's increased access to deli meats was a sign of growing success, something their parents would not have been able to afford when first arriving to the United States.[10]

From their roots as an extension ofkosher butcher shops, delis often have a long counter and glass cases showing the meats and takeaway food offerings. Delis expanded to have tables and chairs, that being at the center of a case before the New York Supreme Court in 1910 questioning if this made a deli a restaurant. The ruling was that it did not, and that delicatessens come in all shapes and offerings without narrowing them to the definition of a restaurant.[11]

As more Jewish delis opened, there started to be an increase in "kosher-style" delicatessens, expanding the offerings to strike a balance of the familiar of the cultural foods and the new American tastes and society; some delis going as far as offering the non-kosher foods on separate silverware and on separate dishes.[12] Some "kosher-style" delis would serve Jewish food, but the meat would not be kosher. These delis helped appeal to both Jewish and non-Jewish Patrons for a variety of reasons, including those not wanting to be seen in Kosher establishments, and keeping costs down on product.[13]

Since their height in the 1930s, Jewish delis are on the decline. In New York (where there was the highest concentration of delis) there was an estimated 3,000 Jewish delis,[14] and as of 2021 in the same area there are less than 30.[15] This decline is presumed because the cost of running a deli yields increasingly lower returns, it is a labor-intensive job, and immigrant Jewish food being on the decline in cultural popularity.[15]

In the United Kingdom

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Whilst some Jewish bakers, delicatessens, and butchers still exist in the United Kingdom, mostly in London with some in Manchester, where the second largest Jewish community in the country is to be found, and a few in other cities;[16] the early 20th century boom in kosher establishments was followed by a decline in later years, with theJewish Chronicle regularly reporting the closures of food shops in the 1970s and 1980s.[17]There were 198 kosher butchers in 1956, and just 26 in 2005.[17]

This was down to several factors; one being that, as theChronicle reported at the time, fewer Jews in the U.K. were observing kosher, from 90% beforeWorld War 2 to 50% by 1975, and so would buy their food in the same stores as the majority of the population.[17]Another was simply expense: kosher food cost more, a fact that theChronicle covered with reports of concerned shoppers and rabinical inquiries.[17]A third was that kosher products were available in branches of U.K. supermarkets where there was a local Jewish customer base to cater to, includingSelfridges,Safeway,Tesco, andSainsbury's.[17]

Menu

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Food portions at Jewish delis are known for being large,[18] and the menus are extensive, ranging from baked goods, breakfasts, large sandwiches of pickled, smoked, and cured meats, dinner plates, deserts, and more.[15]

In popular media

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Jewish delis have been featured in many instances of popular media.

See also

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References

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Notes

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  1. ^"Ashkenazi Cuisine European Jewish food developed along with the migration of the European Jewish community – from West to East".My Jewish Learning. 5 November 2024.
  2. ^abcMerwin 2015.
  3. ^Levine, Harry (2007)."Pastrami Land: The Jewish Deli in New York City".Contexts.6 (3):67–69.doi:10.1525/ctx.2007.6.3.67.JSTOR 41801065.
  4. ^"What is Kosher Style?".My Jewish Learning.
  5. ^"Montreal's Jewish Food Traditions, Mapped". 27 February 2017.
  6. ^Codyre, Molly (13 October 2022)."In St John's Wood, a 79-year-old Jewish Deli has become a culinary status symbol".Foodism.
  7. ^Morris, David B."The Germans in America".Library of Congress. Retrieved2023-10-17.
  8. ^Lalomia, Felicia (2022-11-02)."The Jewish Deli Is An NYC Icon. Here's How It's Changed".Delish.
  9. ^Sax, David (2010-11-19)."Roots of the Deli".Saveur. Retrieved2025-02-24.
  10. ^abMerwin 2015, pp. 17–52.
  11. ^"Court is Mystified by Delicatessen; Justice Whitney Admits Its Status Is a Hard Problem to Wrestle With".New York Times. 29 April 1910. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  12. ^Merwin 2015, p. 182.
  13. ^ZeekFiction (June 1, 2006)."Goldbergers and Cheeseburgers: Food and Particularism among American Jews".Jewcy. Retrieved28 October 2024.
  14. ^"New-York Historical Society Presents "I'll Have What She's Having": The Jewish Deli, an Exhibition Examining the Mouthwatering Origins and Continuing Cultural Significance of the Quintessential New York Cuisine".The New York Historical. 3 August 2022. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  15. ^abcRossman, Rebecca (10 November 2021)."Will Jewish Delis Survive?".Proof. Retrieved28 October 2024.
  16. ^Panayi 2013, p. 184.
  17. ^abcdePanayi 2013, p. 185.
  18. ^Mariani 1991, p. 49.
  19. ^Klebe, Larisa (11 March 2019)."The Eight Best Jewish Quotes from Broad City's "Lost and Found"".Jewish Women's Archive. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  20. ^Thurston, Cate; Mart, Laura; Rabinovitch, Lara (2024-08-15)."Pop Culture and the Jewish Deli".Capital Jewish Museum. Retrieved2025-02-25.
  21. ^Dev (29 September 2005)."Mort's Deli Is in the Spotlight".Palisadian-Post. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  22. ^Fequiere, Roxanne (26 March 2024)."Homicide: New York Is Dick Wolf's Real-Life Law & Order".Netflix. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  23. ^Sokol, Tony (27 March 2024)."What Homicide: New York Left Out About the Carnegie Deli Case".Den Of Geek. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  24. ^Galarza, Daniela (18 May 2015)."The Top Ten Food and Restaurant Moments From 'Mad Men,' Ranked".Eater.com. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  25. ^Hallemann, Caroline (23 December 2018)."The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel's Production Designer Takes Us Behind the Scenes of Season 2".Town and Country Magazine. Retrieved27 October 2024.
  26. ^"Sex and the City - Season 6, Episode 4".Television of Yore. Retrieved2024-11-01.
  27. ^Ontman, Victoria (12 June 2013)."12 NYC Spots Used In Famous Movie Scenes".Guest of a Guest.

Bibliography

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  • Mariani, John (1991).America Eats Out: an Illustrated History of Restaurants, Taverns, Coffee Shops, Speakeasies, and Other Establishments That Have Fed Us for 30 Years. New York:Morrow. p. 49.ISBN 0-688-09996-3.
  • Merwin, Ted (2015).Pastrami on Rye: An Overstuffed History of the Jewish Deli (new ed.).New York University Press.ISBN 978-1-4798-7255-8.
  • Panayi, Panikos (2013). "The Anglicization of East European Jewish Food in Britain". In Manz, Stefan; Panayi, Panikos (eds.).Refugees and Cultural Transfer to Britain.Routledge.ISBN 9781317965930.

Further reading

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History
Types
Religious dietary laws and related terms
Chefs
Religious foods
Breads
Ashkenazi breads
Sephardic/Mizrahi breads
Ethiopian breads
Bagels and similar breads
Pancakes
Sweets
Cakes and sweet pastries
Other desserts
Cookies
Pastries
Fried foods
Dumplings, pastas and grain dishes
Casseroles and savory baked dishes
Snacks and other baked goods
Sandwiches
Egg dishes
Meat dishes
Fish dishes
Salads and pickles
Vegetable dishes
Soups and stews
Cheeses and other dairy products
Condiments, dips and sauces
Beverages
Herbs, spices and seasonings
Eateries
Related lists
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