 Jerzy Kukuczka on Mount Everest, 1980 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Nationality | Polish |
| Born | (1948-03-24)24 March 1948 |
| Died | 24 October 1989(1989-10-24) (aged 41) |
| Website | Virtual Museum of Jerzy Kukuczka |
| Climbing career | |
| Known for |
|
| First ascents | Gasherbrum II East,Biarchedi, Manaslu East, Yebokalgan Ri, Shishapangma West |
| Major ascents | Four winter ascents on the eight-thousanders |
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Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (Polish:[ˈju.zɛfˈjɛ.ʐɨkuˈkut͡ʂ.ka]; 24 March 1948 – 24 October 1989) was a Polishmountaineer, regarded as one of the greatest high-altitude climbers in history.[2][3][4] In 1987, he became the second man (afterReinhold Messner) to climb all 14eight-thousanders in the world, a feat known as the "Crown of the Himalayas." He accomplished this feat in less than eight years, and climbed all, except forLhotse, by new routes or in winter. He is the only person to have climbed two eight-thousanders in one winter, and his ascents ofCho Oyu,Kangchenjunga andAnnapurna were the first winter ascents.[5][6] His ascent ofK2 in 1986, inalpine style withTadeusz Piotrowski, is now known as the Polish Line.[7] No other mountaineers have attempted an ascent using the route since.
Reinhold Messner, upon hearing that Kukuczka had completed all 14 eight-thousanders, wrote, "You are not second, you are great."[8] The line was reproduced as the epigraph of Kukuczka's book and the Polish translation forms the title of a biography of him published in 2021.[9][10] He died in 1989 while attempting to climb the south face of Lhotse.[11]
Józef Jerzy Kukuczka was born in 1948 inKatowice, to an ethnicallySilesian Goral family.[12] He practicedweightlifting in high school and began climbing mountains at the age of 17.[13] He was a trained engineer by profession.[14][15] In 1965, he became a member of theMariusz Zaruski Tatra Scouting Club in Katowice. In 1966, he joined the Katowice Alpine Club and completed a climbing course in theTatra Mountains.[16] After climbing in the Tatras, he progressed to theAlps,Alaska and theHimalayas.[3]
He climbed his firsteight-thousander,Lhotse, in 1979.[17] The following year, he reached the summit ofMount Everest via a new south pillar route.[18] In 1985, he made first winter ascents onDhaulagiri andCho Oyu within three weeks.[19] In 1986, he andKrzysztof Wielicki made the first winter ascent of the world's third highest mountain,Kangchenjunga.[20] The same year, Kukuczka established a new route on the unclimbed south face ofK2, which he andTadeusz Piotrowski ascended alpine-style. Their accomplishment pushed the boundaries of Himalayan mountaineering, with Kukuczka regarding this as the "most challenging climb he had ever undertaken at altitude."[13]
Throughout his career, he ascended all 14 eight-thousanders in less than eight years, a feat he achieved on 18 September 1987. He held the world record for shortest time span to summit the eight-thousanders for nearly 27 years until May 2014, whenKim Chang-ho beat his record by one month and eight days.[21] Unlike many other prominent high-altitude climbers of his time, the routes Kukuczka chose were usually original, many of them first ascents and often done during the winter.[22] He established ten new routes on eight-thousanders, which remains a world record, and climbed four in winter. He was one of an elite group of Polish Himalayan mountaineers called the Ice Warriors. They specialized in winter ascents.[23] In 1987, he was named Man of the Year in Poland after summiting all 14 eight-thousanders.[3]
In the 1980s, journalists frequently described the progress ofMessner and Kukuczka's climbs as a race to complete the grand slam of climbing, but both men stated they did not like the description or even the implication they were competing.[24] Ultimately, Kukuczka completed his sweep of the world'seight-thousanders in the winter of 1986-87, after Messner finished his grand slam by scalingManaslu andLhotse in the autumn of 1986.[18] Kukuczka accomplished this feat in under eight years, twice as fast as Messner.[13][19] He also established 10 new routes on eight-thousanders to Messner's six.[13] Messner climbed all eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen. Kukuczka used supplementary oxygen onMount Everest.[19]
| Year | Location | Mountain | Route | Comments |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1979 | Nepal | Lhotse | West Face | Normal Route |
| 1980 | Nepal | Mount Everest | South Pillar | New Route[25][9] |
| 1981 | Nepal | Makalu | Variation to Makalu La/North-West Ridge | New Route,Alpine style, Solo |
| 1982 | Pakistan | Broad Peak | West Spur | Normal Route, Alpine style |
| 1983 | Pakistan | Gasherbrum II | South-East Spur | New Route, Alpine style |
| 1983 | Pakistan | Gasherbrum I | South-West Face | New Route, Alpine style |
| 1984 | Pakistan | Broad Peak | Traverse of North, Middle, Rocky and Main Summits | New Route, Alpine style |
| 1985 | Nepal | Dhaulagiri | North-East Spur | Normal Route, First Winter Ascent[26][27] |
| 1985 | Nepal | Cho Oyu | South-East Pillar | Second Winter Ascent |
| 1985 | Pakistan | Nanga Parbat | South-East Pillar | New Route[28] |
| 1986 | Nepal | Kanchenjunga | South-West Face | Normal Route, First Winter Ascent[20][9] |
| 1986 | Pakistan | K2 | South Face | New Route, Partial alpine style[29] |
| 1986 | Nepal | Manaslu | North-East Face | New Route, Alpine style |
| 1987 | Nepal | Annapurna I | North Face | Normal Route, First Winter Ascent[30] |
| 1987 | China | Shishapangma | West Ridge | New Route, Alpine style, Ski Descent |
| 1988 | Nepal | Annapurna East | South Face | New Route, Alpine style |
Kukuczka died while attempting to climb the unclimbed South Face ofLhotse inNepal on 24 October 1989.[31][32] He was leading a pitch at an altitude of about 8,200 metres (26,900 ft) on a 6 mm secondhand rope he had picked up in a market inKathmandu. According toRyszard Pawłowski, Kukuczka's climbing partner, the main single rope used by the team was too jammed to be used and the climbers decided to use transport rope instead. When Kukuczka lost his footing and fell, the cord failed and he plunged around 2,000 metres to his death. His body was never recovered.[33]
In Poland during the 1980s, there were significant issues with food scarcity and rationing amid severe economic difficulties.[34][35] Despite this, Kukuczka was able to mount and equip numerous expeditions to multiple mountain ranges. He painted factory chimneys byrope access to finance his mountaineering.[22]
Kukuczka married Cecylia (née Ogrodzińska) with whom he had two sons, Maciej and Wojciech.[36] His younger son, Wojciech, also climbedMount Everest just like his father.[37] Kukuczka was aCatholic.[38]
In the hamlet of Wilcze inIstebna, there is the memorial chamber for Kukuczka, created in 1996 by his wife Cecylia. Commemorative plaques devoted to the memory of Kukuczka are located inChukhung, Nepal as well as the Tatra Symbolic Cemetery in Poland.
The mountain Yak Hotel inNepal inDingboche (4400 m a.s.l.) is named after him.
The Jerzy Kukuczka Academy of Physical Education is a public university in Katowice that conducts teaching and research in physical education and rehabilitation.[40]
There is also a street in the Gaj district inWrocław named after him. In 1988, thePolish Post issued a postage stamp featuring Jerzy Kukuczka honouring his reception of theOlympic Order.[41]
In 2015, a statue of Kukuczka designed by Bogumił Burzyński was unveiled at the main entrance to the Physical Education Academy (AWF) in Katowice. His name was also included on the Monument of Alpine Climbers in Katowice.[42]
He is the subject of the bookKukuczka: Opowieść o najsłynniejszym polskim himalaiście (Kukuczka: Story of the Poland's Greatest Climber) published in 2016 as well as documentary filmsKukuczka by Jerzy Porębski andJurek by Paweł Wysoczański, in 2011 and 2014, respectively. In 2018, Robert Talarczyk directed a play entitledHimalaje (The Himalayas) devoted to the life of Kukuczka, which premiered at theSilesian Theatre in Katowice.[43]
