Jean Patou | |
|---|---|
 Patou, c.late 1910s | |
| Born | (1880-09-19)19 September 1880 Normandy, France |
| Died | 8 March 1936(1936-03-08) (aged 48) Paris, France |
| Known for | Sportswear |
| Label | Jean Patou |
Jean Patou (pronounced[ʒɑ̃patu]; 27 September 1880 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of theJean Patou brand.
Patou was born in Paris, France in 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs.[1] Patou worked with his uncle inNormandy, then moved to Paris in 1910, intent on becoming acouturier.
In 1912, he opened a small dressmaking salon called "Maison Parry". His entire 1914 collection was purchased by a single American buyer.[2] Patou's work was interrupted by theFirst World War. He was mobilised in August 1914, shortly after the German invasion of Belgium. Patou served as a captain in theZouaves.[3] Reopening his couture house in 1919, he became known for eradicating theflapper look by lengthening the skirt and designingsportswear for women and is considered the inventor of the knitted swimwear and thetennis skirt.[citation needed] He, notably, designed the then-daring sleeveless and knee-length cut tennis wear forSuzanne Lenglen.[4] He also was the first designer to popularize thecardigan and moved fashion towards thenatural and comfortable.[citation needed]
Jean Patou is credited with inventing the "designer tie" in the 1920s[citation needed] when men's ties, made in the same fabric as the women's dress collection, were displayed in department stores next to Patou's perfume counter. The designer tie style is still prominent amongst contemporary fashion designers, such asLouis Feraud,Timothy Everest,Duchamp andPaul Smith and Patrick McMurray.
In 1925 Patou launched his perfume business with three fragrances created byHenri Alméras.[5] In 1928, Jean Patou created "Huile de Chaldée", the first sun tan lotion.
Louis Süe designed all the perfume bottles and boxes for Jean Patou.[6]
When the stock market crashed, so did the market for luxury fashion. TheHouse of Patou survived through its perfumes.
The best known of Patou's perfumes is "Joy", a heavy floral scent, based on the most precious rose and jasmine, that remained the costliest perfume in the world, until the House of Patou introduced "1000" (a heavy, earthy floral perfume, based on a rareosmanthus) in 1972. Before Joy, the House of Patou released many other perfumes, many which were to celebrate particular events. For example, Normandie (an oriental forerunner to perfumes such asYves Saint Laurent'sOpium) celebrated the French ocean liner of the same name, and Vacances (a mixture of green and lilac notes) celebrated the first French paid national holidays.
Other Patou perfumes of the same time were:
All these, with the exception of Le Sien, were re-released during the 1980s (under the name Ma Collection), and were available until recently, all in a 50 ml Eau de Toilette Spray, 75 ml Eau de Toilette bottle, and 30 ml pure perfume bottle, each with a unique art deco box. A Jean Patou silk scarf, printed in a pattern complementing that of the box was included with the pure perfume. Joy remains the world's second best-selling scent (the first isChanel No. 5),Joy was created byHenri Alméras for Patou at the height of theGreat Depression (1935) for Patou's former clients who could no longer afford hishaute couture clothing line.
Patou was discovered unresponsive in his home the night of March 8, 1936 and died less than an hour later. He had been found to have suffered a massive cerebral hemorrhage nearly 24 hours earlier. He died 4 months after his 48th birthday. His sister Madeleine and her husband Raymond Barbas continued the House of Patou.
Designers for the House of Patou have includedMarc Bohan (1954–1956),Karl Lagerfeld (1960–1963) andJean Paul Gaultier (1971–1973).Christian Lacroix joined the label in 1981. The last fashion collection produced by the House of Patou label was in 1987 when the haute couture business closed definitively following Lacroix's departure to open his own house.
After the closure of the haute couture business the company has continued to produce fragrances under the Jean Patou brand. Patou also produced fragrances forLacoste, when Patou acquired the license in the 1960s,[7] andYohji Yamamoto in the 1990s.[8]
From 1967 to 1999Jean Kerléo was the house perfumer, he developed all their perfumes during that time including "1000" (1972) and "Sublime" (1992), "Patou Pour Homme" (1980).[9]
In 1984, Jean Kerléo was responsible for the reformulation and reissue of twelve of Patou's fragrances from 1925 to 1964 in a series called "Ma Collection", including the first fragrances created for the house in 1925, the trio "Amour-Amour", "Que sais-je?" and "Adieu Sagesse". "Ma Collection" was sold in flacons modelled after the originals byLouis Süe.[10]
Kerleo stepped down in 1999[7] appointing Jean-Michel Duriez as house perfumer. Duriez creations include "Un Amour de Patou" (1998), "Enjoy" (2003) and "Sira des Indes" (2006).
"Joy" was voted "Scent of the Century" by the public at the Fragrance FoundationFiFi Awards in 2000, beating its rival "Chanel No. 5".[11]
Jean Patou remained a family-owned business until September 2001 when it was bought by P&G Prestige Beaute a division ofProcter & Gamble, which also market perfumes forJean Kerléo andKarl Lagerfeld.
In 2011, the UK-based company Designer Parfums Ltd bought the Jean Patou portfolio from Procter & Gamble.[12] Thomas Fontaine is the house perfumer.[13]
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