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Janja Garnbret

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Slovenian rock climber (born 1999)

Janja Garnbret
Garnbret at the 2017 Boulder World Cup inMunich
Personal information
NationalitySlovenian
Born (1999-03-12)12 March 1999 (age 26)
OccupationProfessionalrock climber
Height1.64 m (5 ft 5 in)[3]
Websitejanja-garnbret.com
Climbing career
Type of climber
Highest grade
Known for
  • First-ever female Olympic gold medalist in climbing
  • Winning 10 IFSC World Championships
  • Winning the most IFSC gold medals in history
  • First-ever female toonsight8c (5.14b)
Medal record
Women'scompetition climbing
Representing Slovenia
Olympic Games
Gold medal – first place2020 TokyoCombined
Gold medal – first place2024 ParisCombined
World Championships
Gold medal – first place2016 ParisLead
Gold medal – first place2018 InnsbruckBouldering
Gold medal – first place2018 InnsbruckCombined
Gold medal – first place2019 HachiōjiLead
Gold medal – first place2019 HachiōjiBouldering
Gold medal – first place2019 HachiōjiCombined
Gold medal – first place2023 BernBouldering
Gold medal – first place2023 BernCombined
Gold medal – first place2025 SeoulLead
Gold medal – first place2025 SeoulBouldering
Silver medal – second place2018 InnsbruckLead
Silver medal – second place2023 BernLead
World Games
Silver medal – second place2017 WrocławLead
European Championships
Gold medal – first place2017 MunichCombined
Gold medal – first place2022 MunichLead
Gold medal – first place2022 MunichBouldering
Gold medal – first place2022 MunichCombined
Silver medal – second place2015 ChamonixLead
Silver medal – second place2017 MunichBouldering
Updated on 27 September 2025

Janja Garnbret (born 12 March 1999) is a Slovenian professionalrock climber who specializes insport climbing andcompetition climbing. She has won multiplecompetition lead climbing andcompetition bouldering events, two Olympic gold medals, and is widely regarded as the greatest competition climber of all time.[4][5][6] In 2021, Garnbret became the first-ever female Olympic gold medalist inclimbing, and successfullydefended her title in 2024. With two gold medals, she is the most successfulSlovenian athlete at theSummer Olympics. She is also theworld's first-ever female climber toonsight an8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route.

Garnbret won her first international title at the 2014World Youth B Championships in lead. In July 2015, after turning 16, she entered the senior category of theIFSC Climbing World Cup in lead climbing. In 2016, aged 17, Garnbret won the World Cup seasonal titles in lead and combined,World Championships in lead climbing, and World Youth A Championships in both lead climbing and bouldering. From 2016 to 2018, she was awarded the seasonal title in both lead climbing and combined disciplines. In both 2018 and 2019, she won the World Championships in bouldering and combined and also reclaimed the lead title in 2019. The same year, Garnbret became the first athlete to win all bouldering World Cup events in a season.

As of September 2025, Garnbret haswon the most IFSC gold medals of any competitive climber in history. In the lead climbing World Cup, she missed the podium only four times, winning 31 events. In addition, she has won 18 bouldering World Cup events for a total of 49 victories at the World Cup level.[7]

Early life

[edit]

Garnbret started climbing at the age of seven and first competed in the national competition at the age of eight. She won her first major competition at the 2013 European Youth Championships, where she won in bouldering.[8]

Climbing career

[edit]

Competition climbing

[edit]

In 2015, her first year of eligibility for theIFSC Climbing World Cup, she placed seventh in the overall lead climbing standings.[9][10] The same year, she also placed first in a Swedish bouldering event, the "La Sportiva Legends Only", ahead ofShauna Coxsey,Mélissa Le Nevé,Juliane Wurm, andAnna Stöhr.[11] She also won the bouldering gatheringMelloblocco in 2015.[12]

In 2016, she won most of the IFSC competitions in which she participated. She won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the World Championships in lead, and the World Youth Championships in lead and bouldering.[13] Garnbret also won the Adidas Rockstars 2016 contest (an invitational contest for the world's best bouldering athletes), defeatingJessica Pilz in the superfinal.[14] She also wonRock Master in 2016, and then again in 2018.[15]

In 2017, she won the World Cup in lead and combined disciplines, the combined title in the European Championships, and ranked second in bouldering in the World Cup and the European Championships.

In 2018, she defended her World Cup titles in lead and combined disciplines and placed fourth in bouldering by winning two golds and one silver, after participating in just 3 out of 7 events (due to school commitments). Moreover, she won the World Championships in both bouldering and combined. She was close to also winning the Lead Climbing World Championships, where she earned the silver medal by topping the final route in 4 minutes and 38 seconds, just 11 seconds slower than Jessica Pilz, who won the Championship.

In 2019, she dominated the bouldering World Cup by solving 74 problems out of 78 and winning every event throughout the season.[16] Throughout six events, she placed first in six qualifications,[17] four semifinals[18] and six finals.[19] This feat had never been achieved before in the history of competition climbing. The same year, Garnbret won three out of four disciplines at the2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, taking gold in lead, bouldering, and combined.[20] Her win in the combined event qualified her for a spot at the2020 Summer Olympics.[21] Towards the end of 2019, she hiredRoman Krajnik as her personal coach.[22]

In 2021, she began the2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup season with a win in bouldering atMeiringen in April before finishing second inSalt Lake City, ending her streak of bouldering World Cup wins at nine.[23] In the same year, she became the first ever female Olympic champion in sport climbing, taking gold in thewomen's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics.[24]

In April 2022, after her first bouldering World Cup victory in the2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup season at Meiringen, Garnbret announced that she would skip the remaining bouldering events to focus on the European Championships and the lead events of the World Cup.[25] At the 2022 European Championships inMunich, Garnbret won gold in all three events – lead, bouldering, and combined – with the first two being the only titles she had never won before, thus completing the feat of winning every possible major title in sport climbing.[26][27]

In August 2023, Garnbret qualified for the combined event at the2024 Olympics by winning the combined title in the2023 World Championship.[28] She also won the gold medal in the individual boulder event and the silver medal in the individual lead event, bringing her World Championship medal tally to ten, including eight gold.[29]

In August 2024, she successfully defended her Olympic gold after winning the boulder and lead combined event at the 2024 Olympics for her second Olympic victory.[30]

Garnbret as the 2017 European champion in combined discipline
Garnbret climbing at the2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup in Munich, Germany
Garnbret with the gold medal from the2020 Summer Olympics

Outdoor rock climbing

[edit]

In 2015, GarnbretonsightedAvatar, an8b (5.13d) gradedsport climbing route in Pandora, Croatia.[31] The same year, she successfully climbed her first8c+ (5.14c) graded route byredpointingMiza za šest at Kotečnik in her home country of Slovenia.[32]

In 2016, sheflashedLa Fabelita inSanta Linya, an8c (5.14b) graded sport climbing route. She was givenroute beta by her countrywomanMina Markovič, and climbed the route in less than 15 minutes.[33]

In 2017, she went a step further and clipped the anchor of her first9a (5.14d) graded sport route,Seleccio Natural, in Santa Linya, Spain.[34] Just a few days later, she climbed her second 9a graded route,La Fabela pa la Enmienda, also in Santa Linya.[35]

In November 2021, she onsightedFish Eye inOliana, Spain, which was theworld's first-ever female onsight of a consensus8c (5.14b) graded sport route in history.[36]

In March 2022, Garnbret made thefirst female ascent ofBügeleisen, an8B+ (V14) gradedbouldering problem inMaltatal, Austria.[37] On 12 May 2024, she returned to Maltatal and made the first female ascent ofBügeleisen SDS, asit start variation that is graded at8C (V15).[38]

Rankings

[edit]
See also:Best IFSC results andJanja Garnbret in the Climbing World Cup

Climbing World Cup

[edit]

[39]

Discipline2015201620172018201920212022202320242025
Lead7111211228
Bouldering172412188523
Speed584812
Combined11116

Climbing World Championships

[edit]
Youth[7]
Discipline2013
Youth B
2014
Youth B
2015
Youth A
2016
Youth A
Lead4111
Bouldering11
Speed2328
Combined2[40]2[41]
Senior[7]
Discipline20162018201920232025
Lead12121
Bouldering1111
Speed4723
Combined111

Climbing European Championships

[edit]
Youth[7]
Discipline2013
Youth B
2014
Youth B
2015
Youth A
Lead111
Bouldering111
Senior[7]
Discipline201520172022
Lead241
Bouldering21
Speed32
Combined11

World Cup podiums

[edit]

As of 6 September 2025, Garnbret has won 49 World Cup events and has a total of 69 podium finishes.[7]

Lead

[edit]
SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2015213
2016426
2017628
2018437
2019123
202011
202133
2022527
202333
202433
202522
Total3110546

Bouldering

[edit]
SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
201611
2017314
2018213
201966
2021213
202211
2023112
202422
202511
Total185023

References

[edit]
  1. ^Pardy, Aaron (12 May 2024)."Janja Garnbret Climbs V15 in Austria, Twice".Gripped Magazine. Retrieved13 May 2024.
  2. ^"Podelitev Bloudkovih priznanj za leto 2018"(PDF).gov.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved17 December 2020.
  3. ^"Janja Garnbret | OI Pariz 2024".pariz2024.olympic.si (in Slovenian). Retrieved26 September 2025.
  4. ^"Why is Janja Garnbret the best competition climber ever".5c Climbers. 4 May 2021. Archived fromthe original on 29 September 2023. Retrieved31 May 2021.
  5. ^Jiwani, Rory (12 August 2019)."Janja Garnbret: "When I am on the wall nothing else matters."".Olympics.com. Retrieved23 July 2021.
  6. ^Burgman, John (7 July 2021)."What If Janja Garnbret Loses At the Olympics? Unthinkable? Let's Think About It".Climbing Magazine. Retrieved24 July 2021.
  7. ^abcdef"Garnbret's profile and rankings". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved9 April 2024.
  8. ^"Janja Garnbret Interview".klettern (in German). Retrieved14 June 2019.
  9. ^"EVENTS".ifsc-climbing.org.
  10. ^Murray, Emma (25 July 2016),"Janja Garnbret Dominates Lead World Cup, Again",Rock & Ice
  11. ^Ketchum, Chris (30 November 2015),"Janja Garnbret Dominates La Sportiva Legends Only",Rock & Ice.
  12. ^"MELLOBLOCCO 2015 – The year of the women". Archived fromthe original on 3 January 2021. Retrieved29 May 2023.
  13. ^Athlete profile,International Federation of Sport Climbing, retrieved August 1, 2016.
  14. ^"Adidas ROCKSTARS 2016"(PDF).adidas-rockstars.com. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 3 January 2021. Retrieved19 October 2017.
  15. ^"Rock Master Hall of Fame – Rock Master Festival 2019". Archived fromthe original on 28 November 2021. Retrieved4 September 2019.
  16. ^IFSC, ed. (7 June 2019)."2019 Bouldering World Cup – Full results". Retrieved22 June 2019.
  17. ^Qualifications in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". 6 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Moscow". 14 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Chongquing". 28 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Wujiang". 5 May 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Munich". 19 May 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Vail". 8 June 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
  18. ^Semifinals in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". 6 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Moscow". 14 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Chongquing". 28 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Wujiang". 5 May 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Munich". 19 May 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Vail". 8 June 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
  19. ^Finals in the 2019 Bouldering World Cup:
    • "Meiringen". 6 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Moscow". 14 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Chongquing". 28 April 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Wujiang". 5 May 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Munich". 19 May 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
    • "Vail". 8 June 2019. Retrieved22 June 2019.
  20. ^S. J.; R. K. (20 August 2019)."Zgodovinski zlati trojček superšampionke Janje" (in Slovenian).RTV Slovenija. Retrieved31 January 2020.
  21. ^Nagatsuka, Kaz (20 August 2019)."Sport climbers Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi achieve dream by qualifying for 2020 Olympics".The Japan Times. Retrieved19 July 2021.
  22. ^Berry, Natalie (3 May 2022)."Climb for Gold – Janja Garnbret, Olympic Champion".UKC. Retrieved5 September 2025.
  23. ^Berry, Natalie (31 May 2021)."IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report".UKC. Retrieved1 June 2021.
  24. ^"Janja Garnbret ima zlato medaljo!" (in Slovenian).RTV Slovenija. 6 August 2021. Retrieved6 August 2021.
  25. ^"Janja Garnbret Abdicates From Remainder of 2022 Boulder World Cup Season".gripped.com. 13 April 2022. Retrieved15 April 2022.
  26. ^"Novopečena evropska prvakinja Janja Garnbret že mislila, da bo umrla".Delo (in Slovenian). 13 August 2022. Retrieved17 August 2022.
  27. ^"Janja Garnbret še tretjič na vrhu Evrope, Mia Krampl druga" (in Slovenian).RTV Slovenija. 17 August 2022. Retrieved17 August 2022.
  28. ^"Janja Garnbret wins boulder and lead gold at IFSC Climbing World Champs".Olympics.com. 11 August 2023. Retrieved12 August 2023.
  29. ^"Janja po novem zlatu: Upam, da sem vsaj malo razveselila Slovence".Delo (in Slovenian). 11 August 2023. Retrieved13 August 2023.
  30. ^Kopina, Klavdija (11 August 2024)."Olimpijski sen Janje Garnbret: Uspeh je, da si na koncu zadovoljen sam s seboj" (in Slovenian).RTV Slovenija. Retrieved28 August 2024.
  31. ^"Janja Garnbret climbs 8b onsight in Croatia".Planetmountain.com. Retrieved9 October 2018.
  32. ^"Janja Garnbret climbs 8c+ at Kotecnik in Slovenia".Planetmountain.com. 6 November 2015. Retrieved29 May 2023.
  33. ^"Janja Garnbret flashes second 8c at Santa Linya".Planetmountain.com. Retrieved9 October 2018.
  34. ^"Janja Garnbret climbs her first 9a at Santa Linya in Spain".Planetmountain.com. Retrieved8 October 2018.
  35. ^"Santa Linya sends by Janja Garnbret and Jakob Schubert".Planetmountain.com. Retrieved16 October 2018.
  36. ^"Janja Garnbret Makes History with Fish Eye 5.14b Onsight".Gripped Magazine. 3 November 2021. Retrieved3 November 2021.
  37. ^"Janja Garnbret climbs Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal, Austria".Planetmountain.com. 9 March 2022. Retrieved4 September 2022.
  38. ^"Janja Garnbret makes double send of Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal, Austria".Planetmountain.com. 12 May 2024. Retrieved17 May 2024.
  39. ^"World Cup Rankings". International Federation of Sport Climbing. Retrieved20 August 2019.
  40. ^"Combined results WYCH 2015"(PDF).egw.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 10 September 2016. Retrieved29 May 2023.
  41. ^"Combined results WYCH 2016"(PDF).egw.ifsc-climbing.org. Archived fromthe original(PDF) on 2 April 2017. Retrieved29 May 2023.

External links

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