Thejūnihitoe (十二単,lit. 'twelve layers'), more formally known as theitsutsuginu-karaginu-mo (五衣唐衣裳), is a style of formal court dress first worn in theHeian period by noble women andladies-in-waiting at the Japanese Imperial Court. Thejūnihitoe was composed of a number ofkimono-like robes, layered on top of each other, with the outer robes cut both larger and thinner to reveal the layered garments underneath. These robes were referred to ashitoe, with the innermost robe – worn as underwear against the skin – known as thekosode.Hakama were also worn as underwear with thekosode; over time, the two would gradually become outerwear, with thekosode eventually developing into the modern-day kimono.
Despite the name, thejūnihitoe varied in its exact number of layers.[1] It also featured anobi (belt), though unlike modern version, this was little more than a thin, cordlike length of fabric. The number of layers, and the type of layers, could alter the formality of ajūnihitoe outfit, with some accessories, such as overcoats and a long, skirt-like train (known as themō) only worn for special, formal occasions.
Heian-period court clothing paid special attention to colour symbolism, with the layered colour combinations of women's clothing known askasane no irome (襲の色目).[2] These colour combinations, referred to by names that reflected their corresponding season of wear, did not faithfully reproduce the exact colours of nature, but were instead intended to reproduce a feeling of the season.
Thejūnihitoe first appeared some time around the 10th century; however, by theKamakura period, the number of layers worn by aristocratic ladies, even in court, had been reduced heavily. In the present day, thejūnihitoe is still worn by members of theImperial House of Japan on important occasions.
The termjūnihitoe is the common, retroactively-applied name used for women's layered court clothing in Heian period Japan, rather than acting as the formal name for the set of clothes and accessories worn together.[3] Each layer consisted ofsilk garments, with the innermost garment (thekosode) being made of plain white silk, followed by other layers in different colours and silk fabrics. The outfit could be finished with the addition of a final layer or, for formal occasions, a coat and train.
In the earlier styles of thejūnihitoe, a greater number of layers were worn, the total weight of which could total as much as 20 kilograms (44 lb). Due to this weight, movement could be difficult. Heian ladies commonly slept in the innermost layers of theirjūnihitoe, thehakama andkosode, using them as a form ofpajamas. Layers could be shed or kept, depending on the season and the nighttime temperatures. By theMuromachi period, however, the number of layers of the dress had reduced considerably.
The layers of thejūnihitoe were referred to with separate names.Hitoe (lit. 'unlined robe') referred to each individual robe layered on top of thekosode, excluding the coat and train layers.Itsutsuginu (五衣) referred to the series of layered robes as a set—typically five differently-coloured layers.[4] The short coat worn on top of theitsutsuginu was known as thekaraginu (唐衣), and the long, skirt-like train worn for formal occasions was known as themō (裳). The last three terms can be combined to give the name for the formal set ofjūnihitoe clothing:itsutsuginu-karaginu-mo, a term used since the 19th century.[5]
The layers of thejūnihitoe consist of:[6]
On less formal occasions,kouchigi (lit. 'small cloak', a shorter brocade robe) were worn over theuchigi oruwagi, intended to raise the formality of an outfit on occasions where thekaraginu andmo were not worn.[8][9] However,karaginu andmo were necessary for thejūnihitoe to be considered the formal attire.[10]
The colours and their layering held particular significance for thejūnihitoe. The only place where the layers were truly discernable was around the sleeves, the hems of the garment, and the neck, though in summer, sheer fabrics were worn to create new colour effects through the layers. During the Heian period, a woman sat hidden behind asudare screen with only the lower part of the body and sleeve edges visible to an outsider. Therefore, the layers of colours were used to represent the woman herself, and the arrangements of the layers and their colours were a good indication to an outsider what taste and what rank the lady had.
The colour combinations, termedkasane no irome (襲の色目, "layers of colours"),[7] were given poetic names referring to the flora and fauna of the season, such as "crimson plum of the spring", though they did not necessarily reproduce these colours exactly; a set named "under the snow" had layer of green representing leaves, layers of pink, with white on top to represent snow. The colour combinations changed with the seasons and occasions, with it being fashionable to change one's gowns just before the turn of the season. The appropriate use of these colours, and the point at which one changed one's robes, gave an indication of the cultured and refined taste of the wearer.[11]
Apart from their robes, Japanese court ladies of the Heian era also wore their hair very long, only cut at the sides of their faces in a layered fashion, with the longer hair sometimes worn tied back. This hairstyle was known assuberakashi (垂髪), and was sometimes worn with an ornament on the forehead.
An important accessory worn with thejūnihitoe was an elaboratefan, known as ahiōgi, made out of slats of cypress wood, commonly painted and tied together with long silk cords. This was used by women not only to cool down, but also as an important communication device; since women at the Heian period court were not allowed to speak face-to-face to male outsiders, a woman could hold her sleeve up or use her opened fan to shield herself from inquiring looks.
Communication with potential suitors was generally conducted with women sat behind asudare blind, with the suitor only able to see the sleeves – and thus the layers – of herjūnihitoe. This practice was prominent during the Heian period, and was described in theTale of Genji.[citation needed]
Today, thejūnihitoe can normally only be seen in museums, movies, costume demonstrations, tourist attractions or at certain festivals. Only theImperial Household of Japan still officially uses them at some important functions, usually the coronation of the Emperor and Empress, with men wearing asokutai for these occasions.
During the wedding ofEmpress Masako to the crown prince, the Empress worejūnihitoe for the official ceremony. Thejūnihitoe was also worn byEmpress Michiko during theenthronement ceremony ofEmperor Akihito in 1990. Though the Empress, the imperial princesses, and their ladies-in-waiting all wore thejūnihitoe, the style worn was a modified form from theEdo period, not the Heian style.[citation needed] For the2019 enthronement ofEmperor Naruhito, the women of the Imperial family and their ladies-in-waiting all worejūnihitoe, while the Emperor,Crown Prince Akishino, and their gentlemen-in-waiting all woresokutai.
TheSaiō Matsuri held every year inMeiwa, Mie showcases Heian period dress. They are also featured at theAoi Matsuri inKyoto.
