Ivangorod is a majorborder crossing point and a railway station on theTallinn–Saint Petersburg line. It is located just opposite to the Estonian town ofNarva. The town is the site of theIvangorod Fortress, a prominent fortification monument of the 15th and the 16th centuries.
In 1470, the chronicles first mentioned the “New Village on the Narova River,” the future Ivangorod.[11]
In 1473, theFirst Pskov Chronicle mentioned Pskov posadniks and boyars who were sent to the “New village on the Narova,” opposite the city of Rugodiv (Narva), to meet the Livonians along with Novgorod envoys. According to historianVladimir Kostochkin: “On the basis of this village Ivangorod then grew.”[12]
The fortress, established in 1492 during the reign ofIvan III, the grand prince ofMoscow,[2] took its name (literally: Ivan-town —gorod inRussian means "town" or "city") from that of the tsar. The fortress was built along with a series of other fortifications on the border withLivonia.[13] Ivan was said to have blinded the fortress's architect to prevent him from building such a structure for anyone else.[14] Abattle between Russian and Swedish forces took place at the fortress in 1496.[15]
The location was chosen in advance: already in the 1480s the Grand Prince instructed his envoys toLithuania to inquire in detail about harbors on the Baltic Sea. At that time the Baltic trade route acquired prime importance for the Russian state, for its economic and cultural development, and also for its political relations with European countries. Only through theBaltic Sea could trade be conducted independently of foreign control and interference. The town was intended to become the first seaport of the Russian state and, at the same time, a fortress on the Baltic.[16]
The original fortress laid down in 1492 wasbesieged and destroyed by the Swedes in 1496. After this the Russians restored and expanded it. In German documents of the late 15th century it was known as a “counter-Narva.” TheIvangorod Fortress with its mighty stone walls and ten towers was the first Russian defensive work with a regular rectangular plan.
Between 1581 and 1590 and from 1612 to 1704,Sweden controlled the area.[2] Ivangorod was grantedtown privileges and administered as a Russian township under theSwedish Empire (who conquered it in 1612 fromboyarTeuvo Aminev) until 1649, when its burghers were ordered to remove to aNarva suburb. In 1617 Russia and Sweden signed theTreaty of Stolbovo, which placed the area underSwedish sovereignty. Russia reconquered it during theGreat Northern War in 1704.[18] Despite other changes in territory and sovereignty, Ivangorod was considered an administrative part of the town of Narva from 1649 until 1945. In 1780, Ivangorod, together with Narva, was included intoNarvsky Uyezd ofSaint Petersburg Governorate. In 1796, Narvsky Uyezd was abolished and merged intoYamburgsky Uyezd.
After the end of theGreat Northern War the military significance of Ivangorod Fortress gradually waned. The town lost the status of an independent locality and came to be considered a suburb (forstadt) of Narva. In 1708, TsarPeter the Great introduced a new administrative division under which the cities of the North-West, including Narva with Ivangorod, were placed in theIngermanland Governorate, which in 1710 was renamedSaint Petersburg Governorate.[19]
In the 19th and first half of the 20th centuries it was most often mentioned in documents and old-timers’ reminiscences as the “Ivanov side” of Narva.
According to 1922 data, Ivangorod (at that time a district of Narva) had a population of 7,000, 42% of whom wereEstonians.[22]
In 1937, Narva and Ivangorod (as a district of Narva) hosted the first Russian Choral Festival (see alsoEstonian Song Festival), dedicated to the100th anniversary of the death ofAlexander Pushkin. Performances by choirs, soloists, and orchestras took place at the Narva Public Assembly, the “Harmony” club, the Ivangorod Fire Society, and at thePeople’s House of theWoolen Manufactory.[23] More than 15,000 spectators attended the festival.[24]
After theincorporation of Estonia into the USSR in 1940, the town remained within the administrative borders of the newly formedEstonian SSR. From 1941 to 1944 it was occupied byNazi Germany. During the Great Patriotic War, Ivangorod, like the rest of Narva, suffered greatly; however, several pre-war buildings survived in the center and especially in the southern part.[22]
In January 1945 Soviet authorities defined the Narva river as the border between theEstonian SSR andRussian SFSR, and as a result the administration of Ivangorod transferred from Narva to theKingiseppsky District ofLeningrad Oblast. Having grown in population, Ivangorod gained town status on 28 October 1954.[3]
After the restoration of Estonian independence in 1991, there have been some disputes about theEstonian-Russian border in the Narva area, as the newconstitution of Estonia (adopted in 1992) recognizes the 1920Treaty of Tartu border to be currently legal. The Russian Federation, however, regards Estonia as a successor of theEstonian SSR and recognizes the 1945 border between two former national republics. Officially, Estonia has no territorial claims in the area,[25][26] which is also reflected in the new Estonian-Russian border treaty, according to which Ivangorod remains a part of Russia. Although the Estonian Foreign MinisterUrmas Paet and Russian Foreign MinisterSergey Lavrov signed the treaty in 2005, due to continuing political tensions it has not been ratified.
Ivangorod has enterprises of textile, food, and timber industries, as well as a plant producing metallic plants and reservoirs. TheNarva Hydroelectric Station is located in the town limits as well.[29]
The railway connectingSaint Petersburg withTallinn passes through Ivangorod. There is infrequent suburban service toBaltiysky railway station of Saint Petersburg, as well as passenger service to Tallinn.
Ivangorod contains thirty-three cultural heritage monuments of federal significance and additionally seven objects classified as cultural and historical heritage of local significance. All federal monuments are related to theIvangorod Fortress.[30] The fortress functions as a museum.[31]
The state border between Russia and Estonia runs along the Narva River.
There are three border crossing points in Ivangorod:
MAPP (multilateral automobile crossing point) Ivangorod. Operating since early 1993. Open 24 hours. The border can be crossed by car, bicycle, and on foot. Cyclists and pedestrians cross via the pedestrian checkpoint. At the automobile crossing, aDuty-free shop is open beyond the customs control line — at the pedestrian checkpoint the shop has been closed. Crossing is by the road-pedestrianFriendship Bridge, built in 1960 and overhauled in recent years.[33] Queues arise on both the Russian and Estonian sides because it is the only automobile bridge across the Narva.
PPP (pedestrian crossing point) “Parusinka.” Located on a footbridge over the old semi-dry riverbed of the Narva. Crossing is allowed only for holders of Russian and Estonian passports, including Estoniannon-citizens — provided they carry no goods requiring written customs declaration. In 2017 the checkpoint was reconstructed and its capacity increased fivefold.[34][35]
Railway crossing point at Ivangorod-Narvsky station.[36]
^abcЭнциклопедия Города России. Moscow: Большая Российская Энциклопедия. 2003. p. 150.ISBN5-7107-7399-9.
^abКингисеппский район (август 1927 г.) (in Russian). Система классификаторов исполнительных органов государственной власти Санкт-Петербурга. Archived fromthe original on 11 December 2013. Retrieved28 February 2014.
^Алексеев Ю. Г. Государь всея Руси. — Новосибирск: Наука, 1991. — С. 182—183. — (Страницы истории нашей Родины). ISBN 5-02-029736-4.
^ЗемщинаArchived 2017-02-02 at theWayback Machine // The Great Russian Encyclopedia : [in 35 volumes]/ / ch. ed. by Yu. S. Osipov. — M. : The Great Russian Encyclopedia, 2004-2017.
^История Ивангорода (in Russian). Ivangorod official website. Archived fromthe original on August 12, 2013. RetrievedApril 8, 2013.
Законодательное собрание Ленинградской области. Областной закон №32-оз от 15 июня 2010 г. «Об административно-территориальном устройстве Ленинградской области и порядке его изменения», в ред. Областного закона №23-оз от 8 мая 2014 г. «Об объединении муниципальных образований "Приморское городское поселение" Выборгского района Ленинградской области и "Глебычевское сельское поселение" Выборгского района Ленинградской области и о внесении изменений в отдельные Областные законы». Вступил в силу со дня официального опубликования. Опубликован: "Вести", №112, 23 июня 2010 г. (Legislative Assembly of Leningrad Oblast. Oblast Law #32-oz of June 15, 2010On the Administrative-Territorial Structure of Leningrad Oblast and on the Procedures for Its Change, as amended by the Oblast Law #23-oz of May 8, 2014On Merging the Municipal Formations of "Primorskoye Urban Settlement" in Vyborgsky District of Leningrad Oblast and "Glebychevskoye Rural Settlement" in Vyborgsky District of Leningrad Oblast and on Amending Various Oblast Laws. Effective as of the day of the official publication.).
Законодательное собрание Ленинградской области. Областной закон №81-оз от 28 октября 2004 г. «Об установлении границ и наделении соответствующим статусом муниципального образования Кингисеппский муниципальный район и муниципальных образований в его составе», в ред. Областного закона №17-оз от 6 мая 2010 г «О внесении изменений в некоторые областные законы в связи с принятием федерального закона "О внесении изменений в отдельные законодательные акты Российской Федерации в связи с совершенствованием организации местного самоуправления"». Вступил в силу через 10 дней со дня официального опубликования (29 ноября 2004 г.). Опубликован: "Вестник Правительства Ленинградской области", №34, 19 ноября 2004 г. (Legislative Assembly of Leningrad Oblast. Oblast Law #81-oz of October 28, 2004On Establishing the Borders of and Granting an Appropriate Status to the Municipal Formation of Kingiseppsky Municipal District and to the Municipal Formations Comprised By It, as amended by the Oblast Law #17-oz of May 6, 2010On Amending Various Oblast Laws Due to the Adoption of the Federal Law "On Amending Various Legislative Acts of the Russian Federation Due to the Improvement of the Organization of the Local Self-Government". Effective as of after 10 days from the day of the official publication (November 29, 2004).).