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Inner Hebrides

Coordinates:56°30′N6°00′W / 56.500°N 6.000°W /56.500; -6.000
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Archipelago off the west coast of mainland Scotland

Inner Hebrides
The Inner Hebrides of Scotland
The Inner Hebrides of Scotland
Location
OS grid referenceNM 53928 41384
Physical geography
Island groupHebrides
Area1,594 sq mi (4,130 km2)
Highest elevationSgùrr Alasdair
Administration
Council areaHighland
Argyll and Bute
CountryScotland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Demographics
Population18,948
Lymphad

TheInner Hebrides (/ˈhɛbrɪdz/HEB-rid-eez;Scottish Gaelic:na h-Eileanan a-staigh,lit.'the Inner Isles') is anarchipelago off the west coast of mainlandScotland, to the south east of theOuter Hebrides. Together these two island chains form theHebrides, which experience a mildoceanic climate. The Inner Hebrides comprise 35 inhabited islands as well as 44 uninhabited islands with an area greater than 30 hectares (74 acres).Skye,Mull, andIslay are the three largest, and also have the highest populations. The main commercial activities are tourism,crofting, fishing andwhisky distilling. In modern times the Inner Hebrides have formed part of two separate local government jurisdictions, one to the north and the other to the south. Together, the islands have an area of about 4,130 km2 (1,594 sq mi), and had a population of 18,948 in 2011.[1][2] The population density is therefore about 4.6 inhabitants per square kilometre (12 inhabitants per square mile).

There are various important prehistoric structures, many of which pre-date the first written references to the islands byRoman and Greek authors. In the historic period the earliest known settlers werePicts to the north andGaels in the southern kingdom ofDál Riada prior to the islands becoming part of theSuðreyjar kingdom of theNorse, who ruled for over 400 years until sovereignty was transferred to Scotland by theTreaty of Perth in 1266. Control of the islands was then held by variousclan chiefs, principally theMacLeans,MacLeods andMacDonalds. TheHighland Clearances of the 19th century had a devastating effect on many communities and it is only in recent years that population levels have ceased to decline.

Sea transport is crucial and a variety of ferry services operate to mainland Scotland and between the islands. TheGaelic language remains strong in some areas; the landscapes have inspired a variety of artists; and there is a diversity of wildlife.

Looking west to Balephuil Bay,Tiree across themachair
Kinloch Castle,Rùm

Geography

[edit]
Tobermory, the largest settlement onMull
Sgurr Alasdair, the highest peak in the Inner Hebrides

The islands form a disparate archipelago. The largest islands are, from south to north,Islay,Jura,Mull,Rùm andSkye. Skye is the largest and most populous of all with an area of 1,656 km2 (639 sq mi) and a population of just over 10,000.[2][3][4]

The southern group are inArgyll, an area roughly corresponding with the heartlands of the ancient kingdom ofDál Riata and incorporated into the modernunitary council area ofArgyll and Bute. The northern islands were part of thecounty ofInverness-shire and are now in theHighland Council area.

Physical

[edit]
Main article:List of Inner Hebrides

The ten largest islands are as follows.

IslandGaelic nameArea (ha)[5]Population (2022)[6]Highest point[7]Height (m)[8]Gaelic Speakers (2011)[9]
CollColla7,685176Ben Hogh104
ColonsayColbhasa4,074117Carnan Eoin14320.2% (15)
EiggEige3,04995An Sgurr393
IslayÌle61,9563,180Beinn Bheigeir49119% (613)
JuraDiùra36,692258Beinn an Òir785
LismoreLios Mor2,351190Barr Mòr12726.9% (50)
MullMuile87,5353,063Ben More966
RaasayRatharsair6,231187Dùn Caan44430.4% (48)
RùmRùm10,46331Askival812
SkyeAn t-Eilean Sgitheanach
orEilean a' Cheò
165,62510,496Sgurr Alasdair99329.4% (2,942)
TireeTiriodh7,834700Ben Hynish14138.3% (250)

Thegeology andgeomorphology of the islands is varied. Some, such as Skye and Mull, are mountainous, whilst others likeTiree are relatively low-lying. The highest mountains are theCuillins of Skye, although peaks over 300 metres (980 ft) are common elsewhere.[3] Much of the coastline ismachair, a fertile low-lying dune pastureland.[10] Many of the islands are swept by strong tides, and theCorryvreckan tide race betweenScarba and Jura is one of the largest whirlpools in the world.[11]

There are various smaller archipelagoes including theAscrib Islands,Crowlin Islands,Slate Islands,Small Isles,Summer Isles andTreshnish Islands.

The islands are shown to be important as a region of tidal mixing of coastal water.[12]

Human

[edit]
Historical population
YearPop.±%
200118,257—    
201118,948+3.8%
[1][2]
Laphroaig distillery,Islay

The inhabited islands of the Inner Hebrides had a population of 18,257 at the 2001 census,[1] and this grew to 18,948 in 2011.[2] During the same periodScottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.[13]There are a further 44 uninhabited Inner Hebrides with an area greater than 30 ha (74 acres).[Note 1] Records for the last date of settlement for the smaller islands are incomplete, but most of them were inhabited at some point during theNeolithic,Iron Age,Early Historic orNorse periods. In common with the other main island chains of Scotland, many of the smaller and more remote islands were abandoned during the 19th and 20th centuries, in some cases after continuous habitation since prehistoric times. These islands had been perceived as relatively self-sufficient agricultural economies,[14] but a view developed among both islanders and outsiders that the more remote islands lacked the essential services of a modern industrial economy.[15] However, the populations of the larger islands grew overall by more than 12% from 1981 to 2001.[1]

The main commercial activities are tourism,crofting, fishing andwhisky distilling (centred onIslay but also includingTalisker inSkye,Isle of Jura Single Malt andTobermory and Ledaig inMull). Overall, the area is relatively reliant on primary industries and the public sector; there is a dependence on self-employment and micro-business, and most parts are defined byHighlands and Islands Enterprise as economically "Fragile Areas". However, the islands are well placed to exploit renewable energy, particularly onshore and offshore wind; and theSleat peninsula of Skye is an example of a more economically robust area.[16][17][18] Some of the islands havedevelopment trusts that support the local economy.[19]

Climate

[edit]

The influence of the Atlantic Ocean and theNorth Atlantic Current creates a mild oceanic climate. Temperatures are generally cool, averaging 6.5 °C (44 °F) in January and 15.4 °C (60 °F) in July at Duntulm on theTrotternish peninsula of Skye.[20][21] Snow seldom lies at sea level and frosts are fewer than on the mainland. Winds are a limiting factor for vegetation: a speed of 128 km/h (80 mph) has been recorded; south-westerlies are the most common. Rainfall is generally high at between 1,300 and 2,000 millimetres (51 and 79 inches) per annum, and the mountains and hills are wetter still.[22][23] Tiree is one of the sunniest places in the country and had 300 days of sunshine in 1975. Trotternish typically has 200 hours of bright sunshine in May, the sunniest month.[24][25]

Climate data for Duntulm, Skye
MonthJanFebMarAprMayJunJulAugSepOctNovDecYear
Mean daily maximum °C (°F)6.5
(43.7)
6.6
(43.9)
8.1
(46.6)
9.6
(49.3)
12.4
(54.3)
14.3
(57.7)
15.4
(59.7)
15.7
(60.3)
14.2
(57.6)
11.5
(52.7)
9.1
(48.4)
7.6
(45.7)
10.9
(51.6)
Mean daily minimum °C (°F)2.4
(36.3)
2.2
(36.0)
3.3
(37.9)
4.3
(39.7)
6.5
(43.7)
8.7
(47.7)
10.4
(50.7)
10.7
(51.3)
9.4
(48.9)
7.2
(45.0)
5.1
(41.2)
3.6
(38.5)
6.2
(43.2)
Averageprecipitation mm (inches)148
(5.84)
100
(3.93)
82
(3.24)
86
(3.40)
73
(2.87)
85
(3.35)
97
(3.83)
112
(4.41)
128
(5.05)
152
(6.00)
143
(5.63)
142
(5.58)
1,350
(53.13)
Source:[20]

Prehistory

[edit]
The ruins ofDun Ringill, nearElgol on the island ofSkye

The Hebrides were originally settled in theMesolithic era and have a diversity ofprehistoric sites. A flint arrowhead found in a field nearBridgend, Islay has been dated to 10,800 BC. This find may indicate the presence of a summer hunting party rather than permanent settlement.[26] Burnthazelnut shells and microscopiccharcoal found at Farm Fields,Kinloch on Rùm indicate a settlement of some kind and this is amongst the oldest evidence of occupation in Scotland.[27][28][29]

Evidence of large-scaleMesolithic nut processing,radiocarbon dated to circa 7000 BC, has been found in amidden pit at Staosnaig on Colonsay. The dig discovered the remains of hundreds of thousands of burned hazelnut shells[30][31] and gives an insight into communal activity and forward planning in the period. The nuts were harvested in a single year andpollen analysis suggests that thehazel trees were all cut down at the same time.[31] The scale of the activity, unparalleled elsewhere in Scotland, and the lack of large game on the island, suggests the possibility that Colonsay contained a community with a largely vegetarian diet for the time they spent on the island.[30]

Three stonehearths and traces of redochre found on Jura and dated to 6000 BC are the earliest stone-built structures found so far in Scotland.[32][33] However, in general theNeolithic sites in the Inner Hebrides lack the scale and drama of those found in Orkney and the Western Isles.[Note 2] There are numerousIron Age sites including the remains ofDun Ringill fort on Skye, which are similar in layout to that of both abroch and a complexAtlantic roundhouse.[34]

Etymology

[edit]
"Old Britain" as shown onBlaeu's 1654 atlas of Scotland, based onPtolemy.

The earliest extant written reference to these islands appears inPliny the Elder'sNatural History, where he states that there are 30 "Hebudes".Ptolemy, writing about 80 years later, around AD 140–150 and drawing on the earlier naval expedition ofAgricola, refers to the Ἐβοῦδαι ("Eboudai") ("Ebudes" or "Ebudae" in Latin translation) of which he writes that there were only five, thus possibly specifically meaning the Inner Hebrides.[35][36] Pliny probably took his information fromPytheas ofMassilia who visited Britain sometime between 322 and 285 BC. It is possible that Ptolemy did so also, as Agricola's information about the west coast of Scotland was of poor quality.[35][36]

Watson (1926) states that the meaning of Ptolemy's "Eboudai" is unknown and that the root may be pre-Celtic.[37][Note 3] Other early written references include the flight of theNemed people from Ireland to "Domon and to Erdomon in the north of Alba", which is mentioned in the 12th centuryLebor Gabála Érenn.[36] Domon, meaning the "deep sea isle" refers to the Outer Hebrides and Erdomon, meaning "east of, on or near Domon" is thus the Inner Hebrides.[36]

The individual island and place names in the Outer Hebrides have mixed Gaelic and Norse origins.[39]

History

[edit]

Dál Riata

[edit]
Main article:Dál Riata

Although Ptolemy's map identifies various tribes such as theCreones that might conceivably have lived in the Inner Hebrides in the Roman era,[35]the first written records of life begin in the 6th century CE when the founding of the kingdom ofDál Riata is recorded.[40] This encompassed roughly what is nowArgyll and Bute andLochaber in Scotland andCounty Antrim in Ireland.[41]

The eighth century St Martin's Cross onIona

InArgyll it consisted initially of three mainkindreds:Cenél Loairn in north and mid-Argyll,Cenél nÓengusa based on Islay andCenél nGabráin based inKintyre. By the end of the 7th century a fourth kindred,Cenél Comgaill had emerged, based in eastern Argyll.[41]

The figure ofColumba looms large in any history of Dál Riata and his founding of a monastery onIona ensured that Dál Riata would be of great importance in the spread of Christianity in northern Britain. However, Iona was far from unique.Lismore in the territory of the Cenél Loairn, was sufficiently important for the death of its abbots to be recorded with some frequency and many smaller sites, such as on Eigg,Hinba and Tiree, are known from the annals.[42] The kingdom's independent existence ended in theViking Age, and it eventually merged with the lands of thePicts to form theKingdom of Alba.

North of Dál Riata the Inner Hebrides were nominally under Pictish control although the historical record is sparse.[Note 4]

Norse rule

[edit]
Main article:Kingdom of Mann and the Isles
Folio 32v of theBook of Kells which may have been produced by the monks ofIona and taken to Ireland for safekeeping after repeated Viking raids of theHebrides.

According to Ó Corráin (1998) "when and how the Vikings conquered and occupied the Isles is unknown, perhaps unknowable"[44] although from 793 onwards repeated raids by Vikings on the British Isles are recorded. "All the islands of Britain" were devastated in 794[45] with Iona being sacked in 802 and 806.[46] In 870Dumbarton was besieged byAmlaíb Conung and Ímar, "the two kings of the Northmen".[47] It is therefore likely that Scandinavian hegemony was already significant on the western coasts of Scotland by then.[48] In the 9th century the first references to theGallgáedil (i.e. "foreign Gaels") appear. This term was variously used in succeeding centuries to refer to individuals of mixed Scandinavian-Celtic descent and/or culture who became dominant in south-west Scotland, parts ofNorthern England and the isles.[49]

The early 10th century are an obscure period so far as the Hebrides are concerned[50] butAulaf mac Sitric, who fought at theBattle of Brunanburh in 937 is recorded as a King of the Isles from c. 941 to 980.[50]

It is difficult to reconcile the records of the Irish annals with Norse sources such as theOrkneyinga Saga but it is likely that Norwegian andGallgáedilUí Ímair warlords fought for control for much of period from the 9th to the 12th centuries. In 990Sigurd the Stout, Earl of Orkney took command of the Hebrides,[51] a position he retained for most of the period until he was killed at theBattle of Clontarf in 1014.[50][52] There is then a period of uncertainty but it is possible that Sigurd's sonThorfinn the Mighty became ruler circa 1035 until his own death some two decades later.[53]

By the late 12th century Irish influence became a significant feature of island life andDiarmait mac Maíl na mBó, theHigh King of Ireland took possession of Mann and the Isles until 1072.[53][54] The records for the rulers of the Hebrides are obscured again until the arrival ofGodred Crovan as King of Dublin and the Isles.[55] The ancestor of many of the succeeding rulers of Mann and the Isles, he was eventually ousted byMuirchertach Ua Briain and fled to Islay, where he died in the plague of 1095.[55][56][57] It is not clear the extent to whichUi Briain dominance was now asserted in the islands north of Man, but growing Irish influence in these seas brought a rapid and decisive response from Norway.

19th-century depiction of Magnus Barelegs's forces in Ireland, before his death in 1103.

Magnus Barelegs had re-established direct Norwegian overlordship by 1098.[56][58]A second expedition in 1102 saw incursions into Ireland but in August 1103 he was killed fighting in Ulster.[59] The next king of the isles wasLagmann Godredsson and there followed a succession of Godred Crovan's descendants who, (as vassals of the kings of Norway) ruled the Hebrides north ofArdnamurchan for the next 160 years. However, their control of the southern Inner Hebrides was lost with the emergence ofSomerled, the self-styled Lord of Argyle.[60][61][Note 5]

For a while Somerled took control of Mann and the Hebridesin toto, but he met his death in 1164 during an invasion of the mainland.[62] At this pointGodred the Black, grandson of Godred Crovan re-took possession of the northern Hebrides and the southern isles were distributed amongst Somerled's sons, his descendants eventually becoming known as theLords of the Isles, and giving rise toClan MacDougall,Clan Donald andClan Macruari.[63] However, both during and after Somerled's life the Scottish monarchs sought to take a control of the islands he and his descendants held. This strategy eventually led to an invasion byHaakon Haakonarson, King of Norway. After the stalemate of theBattle of Largs, Haakon retreated to Orkney, where he died in 1263. Following this expedition, the Hebrides and Mann and all rights that the Norwegian crown "had of old therein" were yielded to the Kingdom of Scotland as a result of the 1266Treaty of Perth.[64][65][66]

Clans and Scottish rule

[edit]

The Lords of the Isles, a phrase first recorded in 1336,[67] but which title may have been used earlier, would continue to rule the Inner Hebrides as well as part of the Western Highlands as subjects of the King of Scots untilJohn MacDonald, fourth Lord of the Isles, squandered the family's powerful position. Through a secret treaty withEdward IV of England, negotiated atArdtornish Castle and signed in 1462, he made himself a servant of the English crown. WhenJames III of Scotland found out about the treaty in 1476, he issued a sentence of forfeiture for MacDonald's lands. Some were restored for a promise of good behaviour, but MacDonald was unable to control his sonAonghas Óg, who defeated him at theBattle of Bloody Bay, fought off the coast of Mull nearTobermory in 1481. A further rebellion by his nephew,Alexander of Lochalsh, provoked an exasperated James IV to forfeit the lands for the last time in 1493.[68]

Portrait ofFlora MacDonald byAlan Ramsay

The most powerful clans on Skye in the post-Norse period wereClan MacLeod, originally based inTrotternish, and Clan MacDonald ofSleat. Following the disintegration of the Lordship of the Isles, the Mackinnons also emerged as an independent clan, whose substantial landholdings in Skye were centred onStrathaird.[69] The MacDonalds ofSouth Uist were bitter rivals of the MacLeods, and an attempt by the former to murder church-goers atTrumpan in retaliation for a previous massacre on Eigg, resulted in theBattle of the Spoiling Dyke of 1578.[70][71]

After the failure of theJacobite rebellion of 1745,Flora MacDonald became famous for rescuing PrinceCharles Edward Stuart from theHanoverian troops. Her story is strongly associated with their escape via Skye and she is buried atKilmuir.[72] She was visited bySamuel Johnson andJames Boswell during their 1773Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland and written on her gravestone are Johnson's words that hers was "A name that will be mentioned in history, and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour".[73] In the wake of the rebellion the clan system was broken up and islands of the Hebrides became a series of landed estates.

British era

[edit]
Telford'sClachan Bridge between the mainland andSeil, also known as the "Bridge across the Atlantic", was built in 1792.[74]

With the implementation of theTreaty of Union in 1707 the Hebrides became part of the newKingdom of Great Britain, but the clans' loyalties to a distant monarch were not strong. A considerable number of islesmen "came out" in support of the JacobiteEarl of Mar in the"15" and again in the1745 rising including Macleod ofDunvegan andMacLea of Lismore.[75][76] The aftermath of the decisiveBattle of Culloden, which effectively ended Jacobite hopes of a Stuart restoration, was widely felt.[77] The British government's strategy was to estrange the clan chiefs from their kinsmen and turn their descendants into English-speaking landlords whose main concern was the revenues their estates brought rather than the welfare of those who lived on them. This may have brought peace to the islands, but in the following century it came at a terrible price.[78]

The early 19th century was a time of improvement and population growth. Roads and quays were built, theslate industry became a significant employer on Easdale and surrounding islands, and the construction of theCrinan andCaledonian canals and other engineering works such asTelford's "Bridge across the Atlantic" improved transport and access.[79] However, in the mid-19th century, the inhabitants of many parts of the Hebrides were devastated by theclearances, which destroyed communities throughout theHighlands and Islands as the human populations were evicted and replaced with sheep farms.[80] The position was exacerbated by the failure of the islands'kelp industry that thrived from the 18th century until the end of theNapoleonic Wars in 1815[81][82] and large scale emigration became endemic. The "Battle of the Braes" involved a demonstration against lack of access to land and the serving of eviction notices. This event was instrumental in the creation of theNapier Commission, which reported in 1884 on the situation in the Highlands. Disturbances continued until the passing of the 1886Crofters' Act and on one occasion 400marines were deployed on Skye to maintain order.[83]

Sea filledslate quarries onSeil (foreground) andEasdale in theSlate Islands

For those who remained new economic opportunities emerged through the export of cattle, commercial fishing and tourism.[84] Nonetheless emigration and military service became the choice of many[85] and the archipelago's populations continued to dwindle throughout the late 19th and 20th centuries. Jura's population fell from 1300 in 1831 to less than 250 by 1961 and Mull's from 10,600 in 1821 to less than 3,000 in 1931.[86][87] Lengthy periods of continuous occupation notwithstanding, some of the smaller islands were abandoned – the Treshnish Isles in 1934,Handa in 1948, andEilean Macaskin in the 1880s among them.[88]

Nonetheless, there were continuing gradual economic improvements, among the most visible of which was the replacement of the traditional thatchedblackhouse with accommodation of a more modern design[89] and in recent years, with the assistance ofHighlands and Islands Enterprise many of the island's populations have begun to increase after decades of decline.[1]

Transport

[edit]
Dhu Heartach Lighthouse, During Construction bySam Bough (1822–1878)

Scheduledferry services between the Inner Hebrides and the Scottish mainland operate on various routes including:Tayinloan, Kintyre toGigha;Kennacraig, Kintyre to Islay;Oban to Mull, Coll and Tiree and Colonsay;Mallaig toArmadale, Skye and Eigg,Muck, Rùm &Canna; andGlenelg to Kyle Rhea on theSleat peninsula, Skye.

Some ferries reach the Inner Hebrides from other islands such as theSeil toLuing route,Fionnphort on theRoss of Mull to Iona,Sconser to Raasay andPort Askaig toFeolin, Jura. There is also a service to and from the Outer Hebrides fromTarbert, Harris andLochmaddy onNorth Uist toUig, Skye and fromCastlebay, Barra toTiree.[90]

National Rail services are available for onward journeys, from stations atOban, which has direct services toGlasgow and fromKyle of Lochalsh toInverness. There are scheduled flights fromColonsay Airport,Islay Airport nearPort Ellen andTiree Airport.

The archipelago is exposed to wind and tide, and there are numerous sites of wrecked ships.Lighthouses are sited as an aid to navigation at various locations.[91]Dubh Artach lighthouse is located on a remote rock and warns seafarers away from the area itself and the nearbyTorran Rocks. Originally it was considered to be an impossible site for a light, but the loss of the steamerBussorah with all thirty-three hands on her maiden voyage in 1863 and of an astonishing 24 vessels in the area in a storm on 30–31 December 1865 encouraged positive action.[92][93]Skerryvore is another remote lighthouse in the vicinity and at a height of 48 metres (157 feet) it is the tallest in Scotland.[94]

Gaelic language

[edit]
Geographic distribution of Gaelic speakers in Scotland (2011)

There are about 4,000 Gaelic speakers in the Inner Hebrides, equal to 20% of the population of the archipelago.

There have been speakers ofGoidelic languages in the Inner Hebrides since the time of Columba or before, and the modern variant ofScottish Gaelic (Gàidhlig) remains strong in some parts. However, the Education (Scotland) Act 1872 led to generations of Gaels being forbidden to speak their native language in the classroom, and is now recognised as having dealt a major blow to the language. Children were being beaten for speaking Gaelic in school as late as the 1930s.[95] More recently theGaelic Language (Scotland) Act was enacted by theScottish Parliament in 2005 in order to provide continuing support for the language.[96]

By the time of the 2001 censusKilmuir parish in Skye had 47% Gaelic speakers, with Skye overall having an unevenly distributed 31%. At that time Tiree had 48% of the population Gaelic-speaking, Lismore 29%, Islay 24%, Coll 12%, Jura 11%, Mull 13% and Iona 5%.[97] Students of Scottish Gaelic travel from all over the world to attendSabhal Mòr Ostaig, a Scottish Gaelic college based on Skye.[98]

The arts

[edit]
Entrance toFingal's Cave,Staffa

Hebridean landscapes have inspired a variety of musicians, writers and artists.The Hebrides, also known asFingal's Cave, is a famous overture written byFelix Mendelssohn inspired by his visit toStaffa.Marie Dare'sHebridean Suite for cello and piano was composed in 1947.[99] Contemporary musicians associated with the islands includeIan Anderson,Donovan,Chris Rainbow andRunrig.[100][101][102]Enya's song "Ebudæ" fromShepherd Moons is based on a traditionalwaulking song.[103]

The poetSorley MacLean was born on Raasay, the setting for his best known poem,Hallaig.[104]George Orwell wrote much of the novel1984 whilst living atBarnhill on Jura[105] andJ.M. Barrie wrote a screenplay for the1924 film adaptation ofPeter Pan whilst onEilean Shona.[106]Cressida Cowell, the author ofHow to Train Your Dragon, spent childhood summers in the Inner Hebrides and has stated that they are "one of the most beautiful places on Earth" and "the kind of place where you expect to see dragons overhead".[107]

Wildlife

[edit]
AdultAtlantic puffin (Fratercula arctica) in breeding plumage onLunga in theTreshnish Isles.

In some respects the Hebrides generally lack biodiversity in comparison to mainland Britain, with for example only half the number of mammalian species the latter has.[108] However, these islands have much to offer the naturalist. Observing the local abundance found on Skye in the 18th centurySamuel Johnson noted that:

At the tables where a stranger is received, neither plenty nor delicacy is wanting. A tract of land so thinly inhabited, must have much wild-fowl; and I scarcely remember to have seen a dinner without them. The moor-game is every where to be had. That the sea abounds with fish, needs not be told, for it supplies a great part of Europe. The Isle of Sky has stags and roebucks, but no hares. They sell very numerous droves of oxen yearly to England, and therefore cannot be supposed to want beef at home. Sheep and goats are in great numbers, and they have the common domestic fowls."

— [109]

In the modern era avian life includes thecorncrake,red-throated diver,rock dove,kittiwake,tystie,Atlantic puffin,goldeneye,golden eagle andwhite-tailed sea eagle.[110][111] The last named was re-introduced to Rùm in 1975 and has successfully spread to various neighbouring islands, including Mull.[112] There is a small population ofred-billed chough concentrated on the islands ofIslay andColonsay.[113]

Mountain hare (apparently absent from Skye in the 18th century) andrabbit are now abundant and predated on byScottish wildcat andpine marten.[114]Red deer are common on the hills and thegrey seal andcommon seal are present around the coasts of Scotland in internationally important numbers, with colonies of the former found onOronsay and the Treshnish Isles and the latter most abundant in theFirth of Lorn.[115][116] The rich fresh water streams containbrown trout,Atlantic salmon andwater shrew.[117][118] Offshoreminke whales,killer whales,basking sharks,porpoises anddolphins are among the sea life that can be seen[119][120] andedible crab andoyster are also found, in for example, the Sound ofScalpay.[121] There are nationally importanthorse mussel andbrittlestar beds in the sea lochs.[122]

Heather moor containingling,bell heather,cross-leaved heath,bog myrtle andfescues is abundant and there is a diversity of arctic and alpine plants includingalpine pearlwort andmossy cyphal.[123]

See also

[edit]

References

[edit]
Notes
  1. ^There are 43 such islands recorded atList of Inner Hebrides and in addition there isLunga, which had a population in 2001 but not in 2011.[2]
  2. ^ See for exampleCladh Hallan and the impressive ruins of theCallanish Stones andSkara Brae.
  3. ^ Murray (1966) claims that Ptolemy's "Ebudae" was originally derived from theOld NorseHavbredey, meaning "isles on the edge of the sea".[38] The idea is often repeated, but no firm evidence of this derivation has emerged.
  4. ^Hunter (2000) states that in relation to KingBridei I of the Picts in the sixth century: "As for Shetland, Orkney, Skye and the Western Isles, their inhabitants, most of whom appear to have been Pictish in culture and speech at this time, are likely to have regarded Bridei as a fairly distant presence."[43]
  5. ^Hunter (2004) states that the claims of Somerled's descent fromGofraid mac Fergusa are "preserved in Gaelic tradition and accepted as broadly authentic by modern scholars".[61] However, Woolf (2005) asserts that "contrary to the image, projected by recent clan-historians, ofClann Somhairle as Gaelic nationalists liberating the Isles from Scandinavians, it is quite explicit in our two extended narrative accounts from the thirteenth century,Orkneyinga saga andThe Chronicle of the Kings of Man and the Isles, that the early leaders of Clann Somhairle saw themselves as competitors for the kingship of the Isles on the basis of their descent through their mother Ragnhilt" and that their claim "to royal status was based on its position as a segment of Uí Ímair."[57]
Footnotes
  1. ^abcdeGeneral Register Office for Scotland (28 November 2003)Scotland's Census 2001 – Occasional Paper No 10: Statistics for Inhabited Islands. Retrieved 26 February 2012.
  2. ^abcdeNational Records of Scotland (15 August 2013)."Appendix 2: Population and households on Scotland's Inhabited Islands"(PDF).Statistical Bulletin: 2011 Census: First Results on Population and Household Estimates for Scotland Release 1C (Part Two)(PDF) (Report). SG/2013/126. Retrieved15 July 2025.
  3. ^abHaswell-Smith (2004) pp. 502–5
  4. ^Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 173
  5. ^Haswell-Smith (2004) pp. 30, 79, 130, 148 and 182 except estimates fromOrdnance Survey maps as indicated.
  6. ^"Scottish Islands Data Dashboard". RESAS/Scottish Government. 2025. p. 6. Retrieved1 June 2025.
  7. ^Haswell-Smith (2004) andOrdnance Survey maps.
  8. ^Ordnance Survey maps.
  9. ^"Crìonadh mòr sa Ghàidhlig anns na h-Eileanan – Naidheachdan a' BhBC".Naidheachdan A' Bhbc. bbc.co.uk. 15 November 2013. Retrieved15 April 2017.
  10. ^McKirdy et al. (2007) p. 224
  11. ^The Corryvreckan is regularly cited as the third largest whirlpool of the world – see for example"Corryvreckan Whirlpool "Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 19 September 2009. Some sources suggest it is the second largest after theMoskstraumen.
  12. ^D. J. Ellett and A. Edwards, Oceanography and inshore hydrography of the Inner Hebrides, Cambridge University Press, 26 July 2012,link.
  13. ^"Scotland's 2011 census: Island living on the rise". BBC News. Retrieved 18 August 2013.
  14. ^See for example Hunter (2000) pp. 152–158
  15. ^See for example Maclean (1977) Chapter 10: "Arcady Despoiled" pp. 125–35
  16. ^"Argyll and the Islands – economic profile". HIE. Retrieved 28 December 2010.
  17. ^"Lochaber, Skye and Wester Ross – economic profile'. HIE. Retrieved 28 December 2010.
  18. ^"Growing fragile communities". HIE. Retrieved 28 December 2010.
  19. ^"Directory of Members"Archived 19 July 2010 at theWayback Machine DTA Scotland. Retrieved 15 July 2007.
  20. ^abCooper (1983) pp. 33–5. Averages for rainfall are for 1916–50, temperature 1931–60.
  21. ^See also"Weather Data for Staffin Isle of Skye"Archived 14 November 2010 at theWayback Machine. carbostweather.co.uk. Retrieved 7 June 2008.
  22. ^Murray (1966) p. 147.
  23. ^"Regional mapped averages".Met Office. Retrieved 28 December 2010.
  24. ^Murray (1973) p. 79.
  25. ^For Islay data see"Islay weather and climate"http://www.islayinfo.com. Retrieved 28 December 2010.
  26. ^Moffat (2005) p. 42
  27. ^Edwards, Kevin J. and Whittington, Graeme "Vegetation Change" in Edwards & Ralston (2003) p. 70
  28. ^Occupation at this site is dated to 8590+/-95 uncorrected radiocarbon yearsBP. Edwards, Kevin J., and Mithen, Steven (Feb. 1995)"The Colonization of the Hebridean Islands of Western Scotland: Evidence from the Palynological and Archaeological Records,"World Archaeology.26. No. 3 p. 348. Retrieved 20 April 2008.
  29. ^Finlayson, Bill and Edwards, Kevin J. "The Mesolithic" in Edwards & Ralston (2003) p. 115
  30. ^ab"Mesolithic food industry on Colonsay" (June 1995)British Archaeology. No. 5. Retrieved 25 May 2008.
  31. ^abMoffat (2005) pp. 91–2
  32. ^Moffat (2005) pp. 90–91.
  33. ^Mercer, John (1972) "Microlithic and Bronze Age camps, 75–26 ft OD, N Carn, Jura".Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
  34. ^"Skye, Dun Ringill" RCAHMS. Retrieved 22 June 2008.
  35. ^abcBreeze, David J. "The ancient geography of Scotland" in Ballin Smith and Banks (2002) pp. 11–13
  36. ^abcdWatson (1926) pp. 40–41
  37. ^Watson (1926) p. 38
  38. ^Murray (1966) p. 1
  39. ^Mac an Tàilleir (2003) various pages.
  40. ^Nieke, Margaret R. "Secular Society from the Iron Age to Dál Riata and the Kingdom of Scots" in Omand (2006) p. 60
  41. ^abLynch (2007) pp. 161 162.
  42. ^Clancy, Thomas Owen "Church institutions: early medieval" in Lynch (2001).
  43. ^Hunter (2000) pp. 44, 49
  44. ^Ó Corráin (1998) p. 25
  45. ^Thomson (2008) p. 24-27
  46. ^Woolf (2007) p. 57
  47. ^Woolf (2007) p. 109
  48. ^Woolf (2007) p. 115
  49. ^Woolf (2007) pp. 253, 296–97
  50. ^abcGregory (1881) pp. 4–6
  51. ^Hunter (2000) p. 84
  52. ^Woolf (2007) p. 213
  53. ^abGregory (1881) p. 5
  54. ^Duffy (1992) pp. 100–01
  55. ^abDuffy (1992) p. 108
  56. ^abDuffy (1992) p. 106
  57. ^abWoolf (2005) p. 212
  58. ^Ó Corráin (1998) p. 23
  59. ^Duffy (1992) pp. 110–13
  60. ^Gregory (1881) pp. 9–17
  61. ^abHunter (2000) pp. 104
  62. ^Gregory (1881) pp. 15–16
  63. ^Gregory (1881) pp. 17–19
  64. ^Hunter (2000) pp. 106–111
  65. ^Barrett (2008) p. 411
  66. ^"Agreement between Magnus IV and Alexander III, 1266" isleofman.com. Manx Society vols IV, VII & IX. Retrieved 11 January 2011.
  67. ^Oram, Richard "The Lordship of the Isles: 1336–1545" in Omand (2006) p. 123
  68. ^Oram, Richard "The Lordship of the Isles: 1336–1545" in Omand (2006) pp. 135–38
  69. ^Mackinnon, C. R. (1958)."The Clan Mackinnon: a short history". Archived fromthe original on 27 May 2010. Retrieved30 April 2010.
  70. ^Murray (1966) p. 156.
  71. ^"The Massacre at Trumpan Church and the subsequent Battle of the Spoiled Dyke"Archived 6 October 2008 at theWayback Machine. The Hendry Family. Retrieved 25 May 2008.
  72. ^"Flora Macdonald's Grave, Kilmuir"Archived 19 January 2012 at theWayback Machine Am Baile. Retrieved 24 October 2009.
  73. ^Murray (1966) pp. 152–4.
  74. ^Murray (1977) p. 121
  75. ^"Dunvegan" castlescotland.net Retrieved 17 January 2011.
  76. ^"Incidents of the Jacobite Risings – Donald Livingstone"Archived 16 July 2011 at theWayback Machine clanmclea.co.uk. Retrieved 17 January 2011.
  77. ^"The Battle of Culloden" BBC. Retrieved 16 January 2011.
  78. ^"Culloden Aftermath"Archived 2 October 2011 at theWayback Machinehttp://www.highlandclearances.infoArchived 9 August 2018 at theWayback Machine. Retrieved 16 January 2011.
  79. ^Duncan, P. J. "The Industries of Argyll: Tradition and Improvement" in Omand (2006) pp. 152–53
  80. ^Hunter (2000) p. 212
  81. ^Hunter (2000) pp. 247, 262
  82. ^Duncan, P. J. "The Industries of Argyll: Tradition and Improvement" in Omand (2006) pp. 157–58
  83. ^"Battle of the Braes"Archived 15 May 2008 at theWayback Machine highlandclearances.info. Retrieved 29 March 2008.
  84. ^Hunter (2000) p. 292
  85. ^Hunter (2000) p. 343
  86. ^Duncan, P. J. "The Industries of Argyll: Tradition and Improvement" in Omand (2006) p. 169
  87. ^Haswell-Smith (2004) pp. 47, 87
  88. ^Haswell-Smith (2004) pp. 57, 99
  89. ^"Blackhouses". isle-of-lewis.com Retrieved 17 January 2011.
  90. ^"Timetables and Fares"Caledonian MacBrayne. Retrieved 4 July 2010.Archived 7 October 2010 at theWayback Machine
  91. ^"Lighthouse Library" Northern Lighthouse Board. Retrieved 8 July 2010.
  92. ^Bathhurst (2000) pp. 210–35
  93. ^Stevenson (1872) pp. 4, 6
  94. ^"Historical Information" Northern Lighthouse Board. Retrieved 17 January 2008.
  95. ^"Gaelic Education After 1872"Archived 16 July 2011 at theWayback Machine simplyscottish.com. Retrieved 28 May 2010.
  96. ^""The Gaelic Language Act ", Bòrd na Gàidhlig. Retrieved 6 March 2011.
  97. ^Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2004)1901–2001 Gaelic in the Census (PowerPoint) Linguae Celticae. Retrieved 1 June 2008.
  98. ^"Welcome to Sabhal Mòr Ostaig" UHI Millennium Institute. Retrieved 8 March 2008.
  99. ^Beyond Twilight: Music For Cello & Piano By Female Composers, Delphian DCD34306 (2023)
  100. ^"Donovan" isbuc.co.uk Retrieved 6 June 2010.
  101. ^Gough, Jim (30 May 2004)"Anderson swaps fish for his flute". Glasgow.Sunday Herald
  102. ^'Chris Rainbow: Looking Over My Shoulder', atuneaday
  103. ^"Translations forShepherd Moons".http://www.pathname.com. Retrieved 28 December 2010.
  104. ^"Hallaig by Sorley MacLean, translated by Seamus Heaney" (30 November 2002) guardian.co.uk Retrieved 27 October 2008.
  105. ^Newton (1995) p. 96
  106. ^"Eilean Shona House" eileanshona.com. Retrieved 28 December 2010.
  107. ^"Film based on little island" (5 April 2010)Press and Journal. Aberdeen.
  108. ^Murray (1973) p. 72
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  110. ^Fraser Darling (1969) p. 79
  111. ^"Trotternish Wildlife" Duntulm Castle. Retrieved 25 October 2009.
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  114. ^Fraser Darling (1969) pp. 71-72
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General references
  • Barrett, James H. "The Norse in Scotland" in Brink, Stefan (ed) (2008)The Viking World. Abingdon. Routledge.ISBN 0-415-33315-6
  • Ballin Smith, B. and Banks, I. (eds) (2002)In the Shadow of the Brochs, the Iron Age in Scotland. Stroud. Tempus.ISBN 0-7524-2517-X
  • Bathhurst, Bella (2000)The Lighthouse Stevensons. London. Flamingo.
  • Benvie, Neil (2004)Scotland's Wildlife. London. Aurum Press.ISBN 1-85410-978-2
  • Cooper, Derek (1983)Skye. Law Book Co of Australasia.ISBN 0-7100-9565-1.
  • Downham, Clare "England and the Irish-Sea Zone in the Eleventh Century" in Gillingham, John (ed) (2004)Anglo-Norman Studies XXVI: Proceedings of the Battle Conference 2003. Woodbridge. Boydell Press.ISBN 1-8438-3072-8
  • Duffy, Seán (1992). "Irishmen and Islesmen in the Kingdom of Dublin and Man 1052–1171".Ériu.43 (43):93–133.JSTOR 30007421.
  • Edwards, Kevin J. & Ralston, Ian B.M. (Eds) (2003)Scotland After the Ice Age: Environment, Archaeology and History, 8000 BC – AD 1000. Edinburgh. Edinburgh University Press.
  • Fraser Darling, Frank; Boyd, J. Morton (1969).The Highlands and Islands. The New Naturalist. London: Collins. First published in 1947 under title:Natural history in the Highlands & Islands; by F. Fraser Darling. First published under the present title 1964.
  • Gregory, Donald (1881)The History of the Western Highlands and Isles of Scotland 1493–1625. Edinburgh. Birlinn. 2008 reprint – originally published by Thomas D. Morrison.ISBN 1-904607-57-8
  • Haswell-Smith, Hamish (2004).The Scottish Islands. Edinburgh: Canongate.ISBN 978-1-84195-454-7.
  • Hunter, James (2000)Last of the Free: A History of the Highlands and Islands of Scotland. Edinburgh. Mainstream.ISBN 1-84018-376-4
  • Johnson, Samuel (1775)A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland. London: Chapman & Dodd. (1924 edition).
  • Lynch, Michael (ed) (2007)Oxford Companion to Scottish History. Oxford University Press.ISBN 978-0-19-923482-0.
  • Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2003)Goireasan Cànain / Language Resources - Tadhail is Ionnsaich :  Pàrlamaid na h-Alba. (pdf)Pàrlamaid na h-Alba. Retrieved 26 October 2025.
  • McKirdy, Alan Gordon, John & Crofts, Roger (2007)Land of Mountain and Flood: The Geology and Landforms of Scotland. Edinburgh. Birlinn.ISBN 978-1-84158-357-0
  • Maclean, Charles (1977)Island on the Edge of the World: the Story of St. Kilda. Edinburgh. Canongate.ISBN 0-903937-41-7
  • Moffat, Alistair (2005)Before Scotland: The Story of Scotland Before History. London. Thames & Hudson.
  • Murray, W.H. (1966)The Hebrides. London. Heinemann.
  • Murray, W.H. (1973)The Islands of Western Scotland: the Inner and Outer Hebrides. London. Eyre Methuen.ISBN 0-413-30380-2
  • Murray, W.H. (1977)The Companion Guide to the West Highlands of Scotland. London. Collins.
  • Newton, Norman (1995)Islay. Newton Abbott. Pevensey Press.ISBN 978-0-907115-97-7
  • Ó Corráin, Donnchadh (1998)Vikings in Ireland and Scotland in the Ninth Century CELT.
  • Omand, Donald (ed.) (2006)The Argyll Book. Edinburgh. Birlinn.ISBN 1-84158-480-0
  • Ross, David (2005)Scotland – History of a Nation.
  • Slesser, Malcolm (1970)The Island of Skye. Edinburgh.Scottish Mountaineering Club.
  • Stevenson, Robert Louis (1995)The New Lighthouse on the Dhu Heartach Rock, Argyllshire. California. Silverado Museum. Based on an 1872 manuscript and edited by Swearingen, R.G.
  • Thomson, William P. L. (2008)The New History of Orkney. Edinburgh. Birlinn.ISBN 978-1-84158-696-0
  • Watson, W. J. (1994)The Celtic Place-Names of Scotland. Edinburgh; Birlinn.ISBN 1-84158-323-5. First published 1926.
  • Woolf, Alex (2007),From Pictland to Alba, 789–1070, The New Edinburgh History of Scotland, Edinburgh: Edinburgh University Press,ISBN 978-0-7486-1234-5

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