TheInner Hebrides (/ˈhɛbrɪdiːz/HEB-rid-eez;Scottish Gaelic:na h-Eileanan a-staigh,lit.'the Inner Isles') is anarchipelago off the west coast of mainlandScotland, to the south east of theOuter Hebrides. Together these two island chains form theHebrides, which experience a mildoceanic climate. The Inner Hebrides comprise 35 inhabited islands as well as 44 uninhabited islands with an area greater than 30 hectares (74 acres).Skye,Mull, andIslay are the three largest, and also have the highest populations. The main commercial activities are tourism,crofting, fishing andwhisky distilling. In modern times the Inner Hebrides have formed part of two separate local government jurisdictions, one to the north and the other to the south. Together, the islands have an area of about 4,130 km2 (1,594 sq mi), and had a population of 18,948 in 2011.[1][2] The population density is therefore about 4.6 inhabitants per square kilometre (12 inhabitants per square mile).
There are various important prehistoric structures, many of which pre-date the first written references to the islands byRoman and Greek authors. In the historic period the earliest known settlers werePicts to the north andGaels in the southern kingdom ofDál Riada prior to the islands becoming part of theSuðreyjar kingdom of theNorse, who ruled for over 400 years until sovereignty was transferred to Scotland by theTreaty of Perth in 1266. Control of the islands was then held by variousclan chiefs, principally theMacLeans,MacLeods andMacDonalds. TheHighland Clearances of the 19th century had a devastating effect on many communities and it is only in recent years that population levels have ceased to decline.
Sea transport is crucial and a variety of ferry services operate to mainland Scotland and between the islands. TheGaelic language remains strong in some areas; the landscapes have inspired a variety of artists; and there is a diversity of wildlife.
The islands form a disparate archipelago. The largest islands are, from south to north,Islay,Jura,Mull,Rùm andSkye. Skye is the largest and most populous of all with an area of 1,656 km2 (639 sq mi) and a population of just over 10,000.[2][3][4]
Thegeology andgeomorphology of the islands is varied. Some, such as Skye and Mull, are mountainous, whilst others likeTiree are relatively low-lying. The highest mountains are theCuillins of Skye, although peaks over 300 metres (980 ft) are common elsewhere.[3] Much of the coastline ismachair, a fertile low-lying dune pastureland.[10] Many of the islands are swept by strong tides, and theCorryvreckan tide race betweenScarba and Jura is one of the largest whirlpools in the world.[11]
The inhabited islands of the Inner Hebrides had a population of 18,257 at the 2001 census,[1] and this grew to 18,948 in 2011.[2] During the same periodScottish island populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.[13]There are a further 44 uninhabited Inner Hebrides with an area greater than 30 ha (74 acres).[Note 1] Records for the last date of settlement for the smaller islands are incomplete, but most of them were inhabited at some point during theNeolithic,Iron Age,Early Historic orNorse periods. In common with the other main island chains of Scotland, many of the smaller and more remote islands were abandoned during the 19th and 20th centuries, in some cases after continuous habitation since prehistoric times. These islands had been perceived as relatively self-sufficient agricultural economies,[14] but a view developed among both islanders and outsiders that the more remote islands lacked the essential services of a modern industrial economy.[15] However, the populations of the larger islands grew overall by more than 12% from 1981 to 2001.[1]
The main commercial activities are tourism,crofting, fishing andwhisky distilling (centred onIslay but also includingTalisker inSkye,Isle of Jura Single Malt andTobermory and Ledaig inMull). Overall, the area is relatively reliant on primary industries and the public sector; there is a dependence on self-employment and micro-business, and most parts are defined byHighlands and Islands Enterprise as economically "Fragile Areas". However, the islands are well placed to exploit renewable energy, particularly onshore and offshore wind; and theSleat peninsula of Skye is an example of a more economically robust area.[16][17][18] Some of the islands havedevelopment trusts that support the local economy.[19]
The influence of the Atlantic Ocean and theNorth Atlantic Current creates a mild oceanic climate. Temperatures are generally cool, averaging 6.5 °C (44 °F) in January and 15.4 °C (60 °F) in July at Duntulm on theTrotternish peninsula of Skye.[20][21] Snow seldom lies at sea level and frosts are fewer than on the mainland. Winds are a limiting factor for vegetation: a speed of 128 km/h (80 mph) has been recorded; south-westerlies are the most common. Rainfall is generally high at between 1,300 and 2,000 millimetres (51 and 79 inches) per annum, and the mountains and hills are wetter still.[22][23] Tiree is one of the sunniest places in the country and had 300 days of sunshine in 1975. Trotternish typically has 200 hours of bright sunshine in May, the sunniest month.[24][25]
The Hebrides were originally settled in theMesolithic era and have a diversity ofprehistoric sites. A flint arrowhead found in a field nearBridgend, Islay has been dated to 10,800 BC. This find may indicate the presence of a summer hunting party rather than permanent settlement.[26] Burnthazelnut shells and microscopiccharcoal found at Farm Fields,Kinloch on Rùm indicate a settlement of some kind and this is amongst the oldest evidence of occupation in Scotland.[27][28][29]
Evidence of large-scaleMesolithic nut processing,radiocarbon dated to circa 7000 BC, has been found in amidden pit at Staosnaig on Colonsay. The dig discovered the remains of hundreds of thousands of burned hazelnut shells[30][31] and gives an insight into communal activity and forward planning in the period. The nuts were harvested in a single year andpollen analysis suggests that thehazel trees were all cut down at the same time.[31] The scale of the activity, unparalleled elsewhere in Scotland, and the lack of large game on the island, suggests the possibility that Colonsay contained a community with a largely vegetarian diet for the time they spent on the island.[30]
Three stonehearths and traces of redochre found on Jura and dated to 6000 BC are the earliest stone-built structures found so far in Scotland.[32][33] However, in general theNeolithic sites in the Inner Hebrides lack the scale and drama of those found in Orkney and the Western Isles.[Note 2] There are numerousIron Age sites including the remains ofDun Ringill fort on Skye, which are similar in layout to that of both abroch and a complexAtlantic roundhouse.[34]
"Old Britain" as shown onBlaeu's 1654 atlas of Scotland, based onPtolemy.
The earliest extant written reference to these islands appears inPliny the Elder'sNatural History, where he states that there are 30 "Hebudes".Ptolemy, writing about 80 years later, around AD 140–150 and drawing on the earlier naval expedition ofAgricola, refers to the Ἐβοῦδαι ("Eboudai") ("Ebudes" or "Ebudae" in Latin translation) of which he writes that there were only five, thus possibly specifically meaning the Inner Hebrides.[35][36] Pliny probably took his information fromPytheas ofMassilia who visited Britain sometime between 322 and 285 BC. It is possible that Ptolemy did so also, as Agricola's information about the west coast of Scotland was of poor quality.[35][36]
Watson (1926) states that the meaning of Ptolemy's "Eboudai" is unknown and that the root may be pre-Celtic.[37][Note 3] Other early written references include the flight of theNemed people from Ireland to "Domon and to Erdomon in the north of Alba", which is mentioned in the 12th centuryLebor Gabála Érenn.[36] Domon, meaning the "deep sea isle" refers to the Outer Hebrides and Erdomon, meaning "east of, on or near Domon" is thus the Inner Hebrides.[36]
The individual island and place names in the Outer Hebrides have mixed Gaelic and Norse origins.[39]
Although Ptolemy's map identifies various tribes such as theCreones that might conceivably have lived in the Inner Hebrides in the Roman era,[35]the first written records of life begin in the 6th century CE when the founding of the kingdom ofDál Riata is recorded.[40] This encompassed roughly what is nowArgyll and Bute andLochaber in Scotland andCounty Antrim in Ireland.[41]
The figure ofColumba looms large in any history of Dál Riata and his founding of a monastery onIona ensured that Dál Riata would be of great importance in the spread of Christianity in northern Britain. However, Iona was far from unique.Lismore in the territory of the Cenél Loairn, was sufficiently important for the death of its abbots to be recorded with some frequency and many smaller sites, such as on Eigg,Hinba and Tiree, are known from the annals.[42] The kingdom's independent existence ended in theViking Age, and it eventually merged with the lands of thePicts to form theKingdom of Alba.
North of Dál Riata the Inner Hebrides were nominally under Pictish control although the historical record is sparse.[Note 4]
Folio 32v of theBook of Kells which may have been produced by the monks ofIona and taken to Ireland for safekeeping after repeated Viking raids of theHebrides.
According to Ó Corráin (1998) "when and how the Vikings conquered and occupied the Isles is unknown, perhaps unknowable"[44] although from 793 onwards repeated raids by Vikings on the British Isles are recorded. "All the islands of Britain" were devastated in 794[45] with Iona being sacked in 802 and 806.[46] In 870Dumbarton was besieged byAmlaíb Conung and Ímar, "the two kings of the Northmen".[47] It is therefore likely that Scandinavian hegemony was already significant on the western coasts of Scotland by then.[48] In the 9th century the first references to theGallgáedil (i.e. "foreign Gaels") appear. This term was variously used in succeeding centuries to refer to individuals of mixed Scandinavian-Celtic descent and/or culture who became dominant in south-west Scotland, parts ofNorthern England and the isles.[49]
The early 10th century are an obscure period so far as the Hebrides are concerned[50] butAulaf mac Sitric, who fought at theBattle of Brunanburh in 937 is recorded as a King of the Isles from c. 941 to 980.[50]
It is difficult to reconcile the records of the Irish annals with Norse sources such as theOrkneyinga Saga but it is likely that Norwegian andGallgáedilUí Ímair warlords fought for control for much of period from the 9th to the 12th centuries. In 990Sigurd the Stout, Earl of Orkney took command of the Hebrides,[51] a position he retained for most of the period until he was killed at theBattle of Clontarf in 1014.[50][52] There is then a period of uncertainty but it is possible that Sigurd's sonThorfinn the Mighty became ruler circa 1035 until his own death some two decades later.[53]
By the late 12th century Irish influence became a significant feature of island life andDiarmait mac Maíl na mBó, theHigh King of Ireland took possession of Mann and the Isles until 1072.[53][54] The records for the rulers of the Hebrides are obscured again until the arrival ofGodred Crovan as King of Dublin and the Isles.[55] The ancestor of many of the succeeding rulers of Mann and the Isles, he was eventually ousted byMuirchertach Ua Briain and fled to Islay, where he died in the plague of 1095.[55][56][57] It is not clear the extent to whichUi Briain dominance was now asserted in the islands north of Man, but growing Irish influence in these seas brought a rapid and decisive response from Norway.
19th-century depiction of Magnus Barelegs's forces in Ireland, before his death in 1103.
Magnus Barelegs had re-established direct Norwegian overlordship by 1098.[56][58]A second expedition in 1102 saw incursions into Ireland but in August 1103 he was killed fighting in Ulster.[59] The next king of the isles wasLagmann Godredsson and there followed a succession of Godred Crovan's descendants who, (as vassals of the kings of Norway) ruled the Hebrides north ofArdnamurchan for the next 160 years. However, their control of the southern Inner Hebrides was lost with the emergence ofSomerled, the self-styled Lord of Argyle.[60][61][Note 5]
For a while Somerled took control of Mann and the Hebridesin toto, but he met his death in 1164 during an invasion of the mainland.[62] At this pointGodred the Black, grandson of Godred Crovan re-took possession of the northern Hebrides and the southern isles were distributed amongst Somerled's sons, his descendants eventually becoming known as theLords of the Isles, and giving rise toClan MacDougall,Clan Donald andClan Macruari.[63] However, both during and after Somerled's life the Scottish monarchs sought to take a control of the islands he and his descendants held. This strategy eventually led to an invasion byHaakon Haakonarson, King of Norway. After the stalemate of theBattle of Largs, Haakon retreated to Orkney, where he died in 1263. Following this expedition, the Hebrides and Mann and all rights that the Norwegian crown "had of old therein" were yielded to the Kingdom of Scotland as a result of the 1266Treaty of Perth.[64][65][66]
The Lords of the Isles, a phrase first recorded in 1336,[67] but which title may have been used earlier, would continue to rule the Inner Hebrides as well as part of the Western Highlands as subjects of the King of Scots untilJohn MacDonald, fourth Lord of the Isles, squandered the family's powerful position. Through a secret treaty withEdward IV of England, negotiated atArdtornish Castle and signed in 1462, he made himself a servant of the English crown. WhenJames III of Scotland found out about the treaty in 1476, he issued a sentence of forfeiture for MacDonald's lands. Some were restored for a promise of good behaviour, but MacDonald was unable to control his sonAonghas Óg, who defeated him at theBattle of Bloody Bay, fought off the coast of Mull nearTobermory in 1481. A further rebellion by his nephew,Alexander of Lochalsh, provoked an exasperated James IV to forfeit the lands for the last time in 1493.[68]
The most powerful clans on Skye in the post-Norse period wereClan MacLeod, originally based inTrotternish, and Clan MacDonald ofSleat. Following the disintegration of the Lordship of the Isles, the Mackinnons also emerged as an independent clan, whose substantial landholdings in Skye were centred onStrathaird.[69] The MacDonalds ofSouth Uist were bitter rivals of the MacLeods, and an attempt by the former to murder church-goers atTrumpan in retaliation for a previous massacre on Eigg, resulted in theBattle of the Spoiling Dyke of 1578.[70][71]
After the failure of theJacobite rebellion of 1745,Flora MacDonald became famous for rescuing PrinceCharles Edward Stuart from theHanoverian troops. Her story is strongly associated with their escape via Skye and she is buried atKilmuir.[72] She was visited bySamuel Johnson andJames Boswell during their 1773Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland and written on her gravestone are Johnson's words that hers was "A name that will be mentioned in history, and if courage and fidelity be virtues, mentioned with honour".[73] In the wake of the rebellion the clan system was broken up and islands of the Hebrides became a series of landed estates.
Telford'sClachan Bridge between the mainland andSeil, also known as the "Bridge across the Atlantic", was built in 1792.[74]
With the implementation of theTreaty of Union in 1707 the Hebrides became part of the newKingdom of Great Britain, but the clans' loyalties to a distant monarch were not strong. A considerable number of islesmen "came out" in support of the JacobiteEarl of Mar in the"15" and again in the1745 rising including Macleod ofDunvegan andMacLea of Lismore.[75][76] The aftermath of the decisiveBattle of Culloden, which effectively ended Jacobite hopes of a Stuart restoration, was widely felt.[77] The British government's strategy was to estrange the clan chiefs from their kinsmen and turn their descendants into English-speaking landlords whose main concern was the revenues their estates brought rather than the welfare of those who lived on them. This may have brought peace to the islands, but in the following century it came at a terrible price.[78]
The early 19th century was a time of improvement and population growth. Roads and quays were built, theslate industry became a significant employer on Easdale and surrounding islands, and the construction of theCrinan andCaledonian canals and other engineering works such asTelford's "Bridge across the Atlantic" improved transport and access.[79] However, in the mid-19th century, the inhabitants of many parts of the Hebrides were devastated by theclearances, which destroyed communities throughout theHighlands and Islands as the human populations were evicted and replaced with sheep farms.[80] The position was exacerbated by the failure of the islands'kelp industry that thrived from the 18th century until the end of theNapoleonic Wars in 1815[81][82] and large scale emigration became endemic. The "Battle of the Braes" involved a demonstration against lack of access to land and the serving of eviction notices. This event was instrumental in the creation of theNapier Commission, which reported in 1884 on the situation in the Highlands. Disturbances continued until the passing of the 1886Crofters' Act and on one occasion 400marines were deployed on Skye to maintain order.[83]
For those who remained new economic opportunities emerged through the export of cattle, commercial fishing and tourism.[84] Nonetheless emigration and military service became the choice of many[85] and the archipelago's populations continued to dwindle throughout the late 19th and 20th centuries. Jura's population fell from 1300 in 1831 to less than 250 by 1961 and Mull's from 10,600 in 1821 to less than 3,000 in 1931.[86][87] Lengthy periods of continuous occupation notwithstanding, some of the smaller islands were abandoned – the Treshnish Isles in 1934,Handa in 1948, andEilean Macaskin in the 1880s among them.[88]
Nonetheless, there were continuing gradual economic improvements, among the most visible of which was the replacement of the traditional thatchedblackhouse with accommodation of a more modern design[89] and in recent years, with the assistance ofHighlands and Islands Enterprise many of the island's populations have begun to increase after decades of decline.[1]
Dhu Heartach Lighthouse, During Construction bySam Bough (1822–1878)
Scheduledferry services between the Inner Hebrides and the Scottish mainland operate on various routes including:Tayinloan, Kintyre toGigha;Kennacraig, Kintyre to Islay;Oban to Mull, Coll and Tiree and Colonsay;Mallaig toArmadale, Skye and Eigg,Muck, Rùm &Canna; andGlenelg to Kyle Rhea on theSleat peninsula, Skye.
The archipelago is exposed to wind and tide, and there are numerous sites of wrecked ships.Lighthouses are sited as an aid to navigation at various locations.[91]Dubh Artach lighthouse is located on a remote rock and warns seafarers away from the area itself and the nearbyTorran Rocks. Originally it was considered to be an impossible site for a light, but the loss of the steamerBussorah with all thirty-three hands on her maiden voyage in 1863 and of an astonishing 24 vessels in the area in a storm on 30–31 December 1865 encouraged positive action.[92][93]Skerryvore is another remote lighthouse in the vicinity and at a height of 48 metres (157 feet) it is the tallest in Scotland.[94]
Geographic distribution of Gaelic speakers in Scotland (2011)
There are about 4,000 Gaelic speakers in the Inner Hebrides, equal to 20% of the population of the archipelago.
There have been speakers ofGoidelic languages in the Inner Hebrides since the time of Columba or before, and the modern variant ofScottish Gaelic (Gàidhlig) remains strong in some parts. However, the Education (Scotland) Act 1872 led to generations of Gaels being forbidden to speak their native language in the classroom, and is now recognised as having dealt a major blow to the language. Children were being beaten for speaking Gaelic in school as late as the 1930s.[95] More recently theGaelic Language (Scotland) Act was enacted by theScottish Parliament in 2005 in order to provide continuing support for the language.[96]
By the time of the 2001 censusKilmuir parish in Skye had 47% Gaelic speakers, with Skye overall having an unevenly distributed 31%. At that time Tiree had 48% of the population Gaelic-speaking, Lismore 29%, Islay 24%, Coll 12%, Jura 11%, Mull 13% and Iona 5%.[97] Students of Scottish Gaelic travel from all over the world to attendSabhal Mòr Ostaig, a Scottish Gaelic college based on Skye.[98]
In some respects the Hebrides generally lack biodiversity in comparison to mainland Britain, with for example only half the number of mammalian species the latter has.[108] However, these islands have much to offer the naturalist. Observing the local abundance found on Skye in the 18th centurySamuel Johnson noted that:
At the tables where a stranger is received, neither plenty nor delicacy is wanting. A tract of land so thinly inhabited, must have much wild-fowl; and I scarcely remember to have seen a dinner without them. The moor-game is every where to be had. That the sea abounds with fish, needs not be told, for it supplies a great part of Europe. The Isle of Sky has stags and roebucks, but no hares. They sell very numerous droves of oxen yearly to England, and therefore cannot be supposed to want beef at home. Sheep and goats are in great numbers, and they have the common domestic fowls."
^ Murray (1966) claims that Ptolemy's "Ebudae" was originally derived from theOld NorseHavbredey, meaning "isles on the edge of the sea".[38] The idea is often repeated, but no firm evidence of this derivation has emerged.
^Hunter (2000) states that in relation to KingBridei I of the Picts in the sixth century: "As for Shetland, Orkney, Skye and the Western Isles, their inhabitants, most of whom appear to have been Pictish in culture and speech at this time, are likely to have regarded Bridei as a fairly distant presence."[43]
^Hunter (2004) states that the claims of Somerled's descent fromGofraid mac Fergusa are "preserved in Gaelic tradition and accepted as broadly authentic by modern scholars".[61] However, Woolf (2005) asserts that "contrary to the image, projected by recent clan-historians, ofClann Somhairle as Gaelic nationalists liberating the Isles from Scandinavians, it is quite explicit in our two extended narrative accounts from the thirteenth century,Orkneyinga saga andThe Chronicle of the Kings of Man and the Isles, that the early leaders of Clann Somhairle saw themselves as competitors for the kingship of the Isles on the basis of their descent through their mother Ragnhilt" and that their claim "to royal status was based on its position as a segment of Uí Ímair."[57]
^The Corryvreckan is regularly cited as the third largest whirlpool of the world – see for example"Corryvreckan Whirlpool "Gazetteer for Scotland. Retrieved 19 September 2009. Some sources suggest it is the second largest after theMoskstraumen.
^D. J. Ellett and A. Edwards, Oceanography and inshore hydrography of the Inner Hebrides, Cambridge University Press, 26 July 2012,link.
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